September  19,  1895. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
285 
the  situation  not  high  and  cold.  The  late  Peaches  are  very  orna¬ 
mental  for  dessert,  and  their  particular  flavour  in  the  early  autumn 
insures  appreciation,  whilst  they  command  prices  that  pay  the  grower 
far  better  than  the  early  and  midseason  varieties,  we  realising  Ss.  to  128. 
per  dozen  for  good  examples  of  Sea  Eagle,  which  we  have  had  first-rate 
up  to  the  middle  of  October  from  an  unheated  house  with  a  south-west 
aspect.  Induce  ripening  by  a  somewhat  dry  atmosphere.  Make  the 
most  of  sun  heat  by  allowing  a  considerable  advance  under  its  influence, 
closing  early,  but  putting  on  a  little  top  ventilation  before  night.  Keep 
the  wood  thin,  cutting  away  any  gross  growths,  shorten  any  sappy 
shoots  to  12  or  15  inches,  and  keep  all  laterals  closely  pinched  to 
one  joint. 
Pigs, — Early  Forced  Trees  in  Pots. — Examine  the  roots,  and  as  it  is 
not  advisable  to  increase  tbe  pot  room  remove  a  few  inches  of  soil  from 
the  base,  cutting  bacK  the  roots,  and  supply  fresh  fibrous  loam  and 
about  a  s’xth  of  old  mortar,  with  a  pint  of  bonemeal  to  every  bushel  of 
loam,  good  drainage  being  provided.  Kemove  the  loose  surface  soil  also, 
and  reduce  the  sides  of  the  ball  about  an  inch,  cutting  off  the  straggling 
roots,  and  apply  the  above  compost,  adding  a  fourth  of  well-decompofed 
manure.  Ram  the  soil  firmly,  afford  a  good  watering,  and  place  the 
trees  where  they  can  have  air,  with  shelter  from  heavy  rains,  snow,  and 
protection  from  frost.  This  is  only  available  for  trees  in  medium  sized 
pots,  as  those  in  the  largest  that  have  been  stood  on  brick  pedestals  to 
prevent  their  sinking  with  the  fermenting  materials,  require  different 
treatment. 
In  this  case  ail  the  Oak,  Beech,  or  other  leaves  and  material  used 
for  bottom  heat  should  be  removed,  and  the  surface  dressing  from 
amongst  the  roots  with  a  fork.  Shorten  the  strongest  roots,  an!  attend 
to  the  drainage ;  then  place  the  trees  in  position  on  the  loose  brick 
pedestals,  and  surface-dress  with  the  compost  named  firmly  rammed 
into  the  pots.  Supply  water  to  settle  the  soil,  and  after  this  keep  the 
house  cool,  dry,  and  well  ventilated  until  the  time  of  starting  in 
November  or  December.  This  is  a  preferable  plan  to  repotting  annually, 
as  the  trees  are  less  liable  to  cast  their  first  crop  of  fruit,  and  it  is  not 
desirable  to  disturb  trees  in  18  or  20-inch  pots  at  the  roots  more  than 
can  be  helped.  In  the  case  of  trees  that  are  not  in  as  large  pots  as 
desired,  or  when  it  is  thought  proper  to  increase  the  root  space,  a 
liberal  shift  may  be  given,  the  sides  of  the  ball  being  loosened  with  a 
hand  fork,  and  any  straggling  roots  cut  back,  also  the  matted  fibres  in 
the  drainage.  Provide  efficient  drainage,  using  the  same  kind  of 
compost  for  potting  as  previously  advised,  and  ram  it  as  hard  as  the  ball, 
moistening  this  well  before  the  potting  is  proceeded  with. 
Succession  Houses. — Trees  that  have  ripened  second  crops  of  fruit 
must  be  kept  drier  at  the  roots  as  the  days  become  shorter.  A  little 
fire  heat  is  necessary,  with  a  free  circulation  of  air,  to  prevent  damp 
where  late  fruit  is  ripening  or  the  wood  not  well  matured.  The  wood 
must  be  fully  exposed  to  the  influence  of  sun  and  air.  Thin  all  soft 
and  useless  growth,  and  allow  the  points  of  the  shoots  to  stand  well  up 
to  the  glass  and  light.  Supplies  of  water  must  be  diminished  or 
discontinued  for  borders  that  have  been  properly  mulched  and  watered 
up  to  the  middle  of  this  month. 
Lifting  Over-luxuriant  Fig  Trees  — Fig  trees  under  all  circumstances 
but  in  borders  of  limited  area  are  liable  to  become  too  strong,  and  in 
that  case  lifting  and  root-pruning  should  be  resorted  to  as  soon  as  the 
leaves  have  begun  to  turn  yellow.  Carefully  lift  the  trees  and  cut  back 
all  long  roots,  reserving  those  moderately  strong  and  fibres  only.  Good 
drainage  is  necessary.  A  foot  of  brickbats,  with  a  thin  layer  of  old 
mortar  rubbish  over  them,  and  then  a  couple  of  feet  depth  of  soil,  com¬ 
posed  of  good  turfy  loam,  a  sixth  of  road  scrapings,  and  a  similar  pro¬ 
portion  of  old  mortar  rubbish,  form  a  suitable  compost  for  Figs.  Place 
it  together  firmly  so  as  to  insure  a  sturdy  growth.  Spread  out  the  roots 
evenly  in  the  top  foot  of  soil,  working  it  in  amongst  them  as  they 
rise,  keeping  well  up,  not  covering  the  topmost  more  than  2  or  3  inches. 
The  soil  may  be  moist  when  used,  but  it  ought  not  to  be  wet.  Give  a 
moderate  watering,  and  keep  cool  and  dry.  A  border  of  4  to  6  feet 
in  width  is  very  much  better  than  a  greater,  for  what  is  wanted  is 
firm  sweet  calcareous  soil  that  will  admit  of  the  free  percolation 
of  water  and  air,  and  retain  the  manurial  elements  essential  to  the 
production  of  fine  fruit. 
liXelons. — Latest  Plants.  —  While  the  fruits  are  swelling  water 
must  be  given.  Keep  the  roots  active  with  tepid  liquid  manure  occa¬ 
sionally,  and  supply  moisture  to  the  atmosphere  by  damping  the  paths 
and  walls  in  the  morning,  afternoon,  and  evening.  A  light  syringing 
of  the  foliage  may  be  given  at  closing  time  if  the  weather  be  bright. 
Remove  all  superfluous  growths  as  they  appear,  and  admit  air  early  or 
at  75°,  keeping  the  bottom  heat  steady  at  about  80°.  Provide  a  night 
temperature  of  65°  to  70°,  70°  to  75°  by  day,  and  85°  to  90°  with  sun  heat, 
closing  so  as  to  sustain  that  temperature  for  some  time  afterwards,  or 
run  up  to  95°  or  more.  A  little  fire  heat  is  necessary  to  secure  a  circula¬ 
tion  of  air  constantly,  and  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the 
fruit,  affording  no  more  water  at  the  roots  than  is  necessary  to  prevent 
flagging.  This  will  accelerate  the  ripening,  and  do  much  to  improve  the 
flavour. 
In  manure-heated  pits  and  frames  no,  or  very  little,  water  will  be 
required,  but  keep  the  sides  well  lined,  and  leave  a  little  air  on  at  the 
back  at  night.  Keep  the  fruit  well  raised  above  the  surface  of  the  bed. 
Any  fruit  wished  to  be  kept  for  a  time  should  be  cut  with  a  portion  of 
stem,  and  placed  in  a  dry  airy  room,  or  if  wanted  ripe,  in  a  warm  house 
in  the  full  sun,  it  ripens  better  than  in  cold  frames.  The  fruit,  however, 
must  not  be  cut  until  full  sized  and  complete  in  every  respect  but  the 
ripening. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Tomatoes. — On  the  whole  this  has  been  a  good  season  for  open-air 
Tomatoes,  producing  and  ripening  grand  crops  of  fruits.  Hot  weather 
in  the  early  part  of  September  has  been  favourable  to  the  ripening  of 
the  later  fruit,  but  after  this  date  progress  will  be  slow,  and  in  many 
instances  it  is  advisable  to  cut  the  stem  with  fruit  attached  and  hang 
in  a  warm  dry  house  or  kitchen  to  ripen.  These  late  fruits  are  beginning 
to  show  signs  of  disease,  and  that  is  another  good  reason  why  they 
should  be  removed  to  a  drier,  sheltered  place.  Undersized  or  the  latest 
clusters  of  fruit  will  not  pay  for  the  trouble  of  colouring,  and  these 
should  be  utilised  for  hot  pickles,  fairly  good  preserve  also  being  made 
with  them. 
Zilftlnr  Tomatoes. — In  some  districts,  and  also  where  either  late 
varieties  were  put  out  or  the  plants  made  but  slow  progress  at  first,  the 
crops  are  still  in  a  green  state.  The  surest  way  of  ripening  these  to 
nearer  perfection  is  to  lift  and  place  in  a  house  where  a  moderate  amount 
of  dry  heat  can  be  turned  on.  It  would  be  useless  to  attempt  moving 
them  with  a  large  ball  of  soil  about  the  roots,  but  if  the  latter  are  sur¬ 
rounded  with  rather  rich  soil  and  kept  well  supplied  with  water, 
temporary  shade  being  also  afforded  the  plants,  they  will  soon  rally. 
They  may  be  either  bedded  in  a  border  or  placed  in  pots  and  boxes. 
Tomatoes  Under  Glass. — Training  the  plants  thinly  over  the  roof 
of  light,  well-heated  houses,  answers  best  in  the  case  of  winter  and  early 
spring  crops.  If  the  plants  have  been  put  out  in  succession  to  Melons 
or  Cucumbers,  the  ridge  of  soil  supporting  the  latter  doing  duty  for 
both  crops,  it  will  be  soon  found  necessary  to  apply  a  surfacing  of  special 
manure,  or  else  to  give  liquid  manure  frequently.  Starvation  treatment 
does  not  pay,  the  plants  failing  to  set  good  crops  when  they  suffer  for 
want  of  food  at  the  roots.  Especially  is  this  the  case  with  plantain 
pots  and  narrow  ridges  of  soil.  The  other  extreme  must  be  avoided,  and 
if  rankness  of  growth  prevails,  give  less  water  and  no  liquid  manure  to 
the  roots  till  they  give  signs  of  needing  one  or  both.  If  arranged 
15  inches  or  rather  less  apart,  confine  the  plants  to  a  single  stem,  but  if 
a  yard  or  more  apart  lay  in  as  many  leaders  as  there  is  good  room  for. 
In  either  case  keep  all  side  shoots  closely  pinched  out.  A  good  circu¬ 
lation  of  warm,  dry  air  ought  to  be  constantly  maintained,  never  wholly 
closing  the  top  ventilators.  Towards  midday,  or  as  soon  as  the  flowers 
are  dry,  go  over  the  plants  and  smartly  tap  the  stems  with  a  padded 
stick,  this  distributing  the  pollen  grains  and  effecting  a  good  set  of 
fruit. 
Tomato  Diseases. — Any  young  plants  affected  by  the  “  black 
stripe”  should  be  burnt.  They  will  sometimes  partly  grow  out  of  it, 
but  it  pays  better  to  train  in  young  growths  from  adjoining  healthy 
plants.  Cladisporium  soon  shows  itself  if  the  plants  are  subjected  to 
a  close,  stagnant  atmosphere  for  a  few  days.  Dusting  with  anti-blight 
powder  or  a  5  per  cent,  mixture  of  sulphate  of  copper  with  newly  slaked 
lime  is  a  good  preventive.  Painting  the  hot-water  pipes  wdth  sulphur 
mixed  with  milk,  and  heating  them  to  a  temperature  of  120°,  will  destroy 
the  disease  germs  and  also  get  rid  of  the  white  fly  (Aleyrodes)  if  there 
are  any  on  the  plants. 
Mushrooms. — During  November  and  December  there  is  usually  a 
great  lemand  for  Mushrooms,  and  supposing  the  earlier  supplies  are  to 
be  had  from  beds  formed  in  the  open  as  well  as  in  sheltered  sheds  and 
such  like,  the  Mushroom  house  proper  should  now  be  utilised.  An 
interval  of  about  six  weeks  from  the  time  the  beds  are  spawned  till 
cropping  commences  should  be  allowed.  See  that  the  manure  is  well 
sweetened  by  being  placed  in  a  heap  to  ferment,  not  allowing  more 
than  two  days  to  elapse  before  turning  the  mass  inside  out.  The 
manure  when  used  ought  neither  to  be  very  dry  or  very  moist.  Put 
together  firmly,  flat  beds  having  a  depth  of  about  15  inches  at  the  back 
and  12  inches  at  the  front.  Spawn  directly  the  trial  sticks  show  a 
decline  in  the  heat  to  about  80°,  or  say  when  they  can  be  comfortably 
borne  in  the  palm  of  the  hand.  Avoid  watering  and  plastering  over 
the  soil,  as  this  will  inevitably  be  followed  by  shrinkage  and  crack¬ 
ing.  A  rather  heavy  mulching  of  strawy  manure  will  conserve  both 
the'  heat  and  moisture  in  a  bed,  and  is  most  desirable  directly  it 
can  safely  be  applied. 
rih/  ±5iVli<  iNJVJVx 
APIARIAN  NOTES. 
Experience  with  Bees  at  the  Heather. 
Now  that  I  am  home  from  the  moors  with  some  heavy  hives, 
it  may  be  interesting  to  some  to  have  a  brief  account  of  what 
transpired  there.  It  will  be  remembered  I  set  my  bees  down  on 
the  25th  July,  amidst  the  most  profuse  bloom  on  the  Heather  ever 
witnessed.  For  a  week  the  rain  was  heavy,  culminating  with  a 
flood  on  the  29  th,  the  weather  then  became  warm  with  drizzling 
rains,  which  continued  nearly  the  whole  month  of  August.  For 
four  days  I  kept  within  doors  during  the  flrst  week  of  August,  but 
was  told  that  the  bees  had  been  busy  during  the  wettest  days.  By 
the  15  th  of  the  month  some  hives  required  additional  room,  but  the 
weather  in  a  few  days  became  more  unsettled,  and  the  22nd  put 
an  entire  stop  to  honey  for  another  year.  The  first  week  of 
