October  3,  1895. 
JOUR^^AL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
333 
Cherries  are  readily  forced  in  pots.  This  is  a  very  desirable 
method  of  cultivating  this  valuable  fruit,  either  where  a  few  trees 
only  can  be  accommodated  in  a  small  house  to  give  dishes  of  ripe 
Cherries  from  April  to  June,  or  where  a  long  succession  and  varieties  of 
fruit  are  in  request.  A  house  with  hot-water  pipes  sufficient  to  exclude 
frost  and  started  at  the  new  year,  only  using  fire  heat  to  keep  frost  at 
bay,  and  to  allow  a  rise  to  50°  in  the  daytime  after  trees  come  into  leaf, 
with  a  circulation  of  air,  will  give  ripe  Cherries  at  the  beginning  of 
May  and  sometimes  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  earlier,  and  a  cool  house 
supplies  this  desirable  fruit  from  the  end  of  May  or  early  in  June 
onwards.  The  culture  of  Cherries  in  pots  is  very  simple,  but  it  is 
necessary  that  the  house  be  light  and  well  ventilated,  and  the  trees 
placed  outdoors  after  the  crops  are  removed  and  the  wood  sufficiently 
firm 
Trees  for  forcing  should  be  secured  at  once.  Established  examples 
in  a  bearing  state  may  be  obtained  from  most  fruit  nurseries.  If  neces¬ 
sary  they  may  be  shifted  into  larger  pots,  disentangling  the  roots  at  the 
sides  of  the  ball  and  cutting  back  any  that  are  straggling  and  thick. 
Provide  good  drainage  and  ram  the  soil  firmly.  Trees  that  are  in 
as  large  pots  as  desired  need  only  have  the  drainage  rectified  and 
the  surface  dressed,  or  the  old  drainage  may  be  cleared  away,  a 
few  inches  from  the  base  removed,  the  roots  shortened  back,  and  fresh 
soil  given  as  advised  for  border,  with  a  fifth  of  the  whole  of  well- 
decayed  manure,  removing  also  the  loose  surface  soil  and  supplying  fresh 
material.  If  the  trees  are  not  already  in  pots,  bushes  pyramids  or 
low  standards  should  bo  lifted  when  the  leaves  commence  falling, 
have  the  roots  trimmed  and  be  potted  firmly,  allowing  them  to 
become  established  before  subjecting  them  to  forcing.  The  trees  should 
be  stood  on  a  hard  bottom  impervious  to  worms,  and  surrounded  with 
ashes  to  the  rim,  covering  the  pots  with  litter  on  the  approach  of 
frost.  The  trees  must  have  a  good  watering  after  potting,  or  when  the 
roots  have  been  interfered  with. 
For  forcing  in  pots  Early  Rivers,  Empress  Eugenie,  Black  Tartarian, 
Governor  Wood,  Black  Eagle,  and  Elton  are  good.  For  a  cool  house 
the  following  are  first-rate: — Compact  growers — Belle  d’Orleans,  Early 
Rivers,  Early  Red  Bigarreau,  Empress  Eugenie,  Bigarreau  de  Schreker, 
Governor  Wood,  May  Duke,  Black  Eagle,  Archduke,  Nouvelle  Royale, 
Florence,  and  Late  Duke  ;  large  growers — Early  Jaboulay,  Black 
Tartarian,  Bohemian,  Black  Bigarreau,  Elton,  Reine  Hortense, 
Bigarreau,  Bigarreau  de  Mezel,  Duchesse  de  Palluau,  Bigarreau 
Napoleon,  Belle  Magnifique,  Emperor  Francis,  and  Tradescant’s  Heart, 
Strawberries  In  Pots. — Autumn  fruiters  are  particularly  fine 
this  season,  and  their  bright  appearance  renders  them  pleasing  at 
Ressert,  indeed,  relished  more  than  any  other  fruit  during  the  recent 
hot  weather.  All  the  varieties  forced  are  not  good  autumn  fruiters,  but 
early  forcers,  such  as  La  Grosse  Sucr^e,  Vicomtesse  Hericart  de  Thury,  and 
Sir  Harry  are  most  suitable  through  their  quality  being  higher  than  the 
larger  fruited  varieties.  Plants  that  have  been  shaken  out  after  being 
forced,  repotted,  and  grown  on  are  excellent  for  autumn  and  early 
winter  fruiting,  either  so  grown  or  planted  out,  duly  attended  to  and 
lifted  at  the  end  of  September  or  when  showing  for  bloom,  and  placed 
in  a  frame.  After  the  fruit  commences  swelling  they  should  be 
encouraged  with  weak  liquid  manure — guano  water  being  suitable,  and 
where  the  plants  are  weak  they  may  have  an  occasional  feeding  with 
nitrate  of  soda,  ^  oz.  to  a  gallon  of  water.  Early  autumn  fruiters  with 
the  fruit  approaching  maturity  should  be  placed  in  frames  with  abundant 
ventilation,  which  will  assist  the  fruit  to  ripen,  improving  its  colour 
and  quality  considerably.  Any  plants  not  required  to  fruit  for  some 
time  yet  may  be  retarded  by  placing  them  on  a  north  border,  assigning 
them  plenty  of  space  on  a  hard  bottom. 
The  earliest  plants  of  this  summer’s  runners  intended  for  early 
forcing  should  now  be  selected,  taking  those  with  the  most  promising 
crowns,  well  developed  and  plumped,  giving  them  ample  space,  so  that 
they  may  become  well  matured  in  their  growths,  and  before  heavy 
rains  place  them  in  frames  plunged  in  coal  ashes  to  the  rims  of  the  pots 
and  well  up  to  the  glass,  which  should  be  perfectly  clean  so  that  they 
will  be  assured  plenty  of  light,  and  air  must  be  admitted  abundantly 
by  keeping  the  lights  tilted  in  rainy  weather  and  withdrawn  when  the 
weather  is  mild  and  fair.  The  plants  must  not  lack  water  at  the 
roots.  A  loose  surface  for  Strawberries  in  pots  prevents  the  soil  from 
leaving  the  sides,  and  admits  of  the  water  passing  equally  through  the 
ball  and  moistening  it  thoroughly.  A  little  horse  droppings  or  cow 
manure  dried,  rubbed  through  a  half-inch  sieve,  and  applied  to  the 
surface  will  keep  all  right  there. 
Remove  all  runners  as  they  appear,  also  weeds,  and  do  not  allow  the 
plants  to  suffer  through  insufficient  supplies  of  water.  They  should 
have  full  exposure  to  light  and  air  by  allowing  abundance  of  space, 
so  as  to  secure  sturdy  growth  and  plump  well  developed  crowns. 
Late  and  weakly  plants  may  be  assisted  with  weak  liquid  manure, 
taking  care  not  to  make  the  soil  sodden,  or  it  will  do  more  harm  than 
good.  Stimulants  ought  not  to  be  given  to  strong  leafy  plants,  or  this 
may  increase  the  grossness  or  cause  them  to  push  the  flower  buds,  which 
if  only  partial  splits  up  the  crowns  into  a  number  of  parts  derogatory  to 
a  good  show  of  trusses  when  placed  in  heat. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN, 
Beet. — Crops  of  these  are  very  irregular,  some  of  the  roots  being 
excessively  large,  while  only  a  small  portion  are  of  good  medium  size. 
Many  of  the  very  coarse  roots  are  faulty  in  colour,  and  these  should 
be  unhesitatingly  discarded.  The  medium-sized  roots  should  be  carefully 
drawn  or  forked  up,  and  after  these  and  the  selected  large  ones  have 
had  their  tops  cut  or  twisted  off,  they  must  be  stored  for  the  winter. 
The  floor  of  a  cool  shed  is  a  good  position,  the  roots  being  packed  in  a 
cone-shaped  heap,  crown  outwards,  and  surrounded  by  sand  or  fine  soil. 
A  clamp  in  a  dry  corner  in  the  open  would  be  preferable  to  storing 
loosely  in  dry  warm  places.  Leave  the  undersized  roots  where  they  are. 
While  the  weather  is  mild  they  will  continue  to  thicken,  whereas  if 
drawn  and  stored  they  will  become  smaller. 
Carrots. — The  time  has  arrived  for  lifting  and  storing  the  principal 
crops  of  these.  If  the  ground  is  hard  fork  them  up,  and  then  sort  over. 
Should  they  be  plentiful  the  split  and  forked  roots  may  well  be  thrown 
on  one  side  for  horses.  All  that  are  straight  and  good  should  be  stored 
in  sand  or  soil,  much  as  advised  in  the  case  of  Beet.  Leave  the  unthinned 
and  all  late-sown  rows  where  they  are,  drawing  these  for  use  as  required 
throughout  the  winter.  Mulch  a  portion  of  the  bed  or  some  of  the  rows 
with  strawy  litter,  rendering  it  possible  to  draw  them  during  the  pre¬ 
valence  of  a  moderately  severe  frost.  The  storing  of  Parsnips  must 
also  have  attention. 
Chicory,  Salsafy,  and  Scorzonera. — Chicory  roots  are  quite 
hardy  ;  they  may,  therefore,  be  left  in  the  ground,  digging  8s^  required, 
or  later  on  they  may  be  stored,  crowns  outwards,  in  heaps  of  soil.  Salsafy 
and  Scorzonera  keep  best  where  grown,  but  they  may  be  lifted  and 
stored  as  advised  in  the  case  of  Chicory. 
Potatoes. — Crops  of  late  varieties  have  matured  rather  sooner  than 
anticipated,  and  the  weather  has  been  very  favourable  to  lifting.  All 
ought  to  be  sorted  before  storing.  The  smallest  should  be  saved  for  the 
pigs,  and  the  diseased  tubers  rendered  innocuous  by  means  of  a  dressing 
of  newly  slacked  lime.  Siva  rather  more  than  are  needed  of  medium 
sized  tubers  for  planting  purposes,  and  treat  them  very  differently  to 
the  “  ware ”  or  tubers  intended  for  eating.  Store  thinly  in  cool,  light 
positions,  protecting  heavily  only  when  severe  frosts  are  imminent. 
Later  on  the  Ashleafs  should  be  placed  sprout  end  uppermost  in  shallow 
trays.  Cool,  airy  cellars  are  suitable  for  storing  cooking  Potatoes,  as 
also  are  dark,  dry  sheds,  generally  having  either  mats,  abundance  of 
paper,  or  a  heavy  supply  of  strawy  litter  in  readiness  for  covering  when 
severe  frosts  are  anticipated.  Large  quantities  should  be  clamped. 
Newly  dug  Potatoes  ought  not  to  remain  several  hours  on  the  surface 
of  the  ground,  especially  in  dull,  damp  weather,  not  even  with  a  view 
to  greening  them,  as  it  is  only  inviting  an  attack  of  disease. 
Dry  Weather  and  Celery.— Leaf -mining  maggots  are  numerous 
and  most  injuriou=i,  but  are  not  wholly  responsible  for  the  slow 
growth  of  much  Celery.  Crushing  the  maggots  with  the  finger 
and  thumb  is  advisable,  but  in  order  to  keep  the  Celery  growing  strongly 
the  plants  must,  in  many  instances,  have  more  water  and  liquid  inanure 
supplied  to  them  at  the  roots.  Even  those  moulded  up  are  suffering  for 
want  of  moisture,  and  if  it  can  be  supplied  to  them  from  the  sides  of 
the  ridges  good  will  be  done.  Any  only  partly  soiled  should  have  a 
thorough  soaking  of  water  or  liquid  manure.  Unless  this  is  attended  to 
there  is  every  likelihood  of  much  Celery  bolting  early. 
APIARIAN  NOTES 
Preparing  for  1896. 
The  exceedingly  fine  weather  we  are  now  enjoying  cheers  us 
on  with  brighter  hopes.  Bees  should  not  be  allowed  to  crowd  out  or 
loiter  at  the  entrance,  or  to  build  combs  underneath  their  hive  or 
wrappings.  I  mention  wrappings  here  as  being  superior  to  double 
casing  ;  the  latter  not  being  so  healthful  to  bees  on  account  of  the 
damp  it  creates  inside  the  hive,  acting  injuriously  on  the  honey, 
pollen,  and  the  bees. 
When  hives  are  of  proper  size,  so  that  there  is  ample  room  for 
stores  of  every  sort,  and  for  the  queen  to  deposit  from  3000  to 
4000  eggs  daily,  there  is  not  the  slightest  occasion  for  the  nadir. 
When  hives  are  so  constructed,  and  mostly  filled  with  worker  comb 
and  crowded  with  bees,  there  remains  but  one  thing  for  the  apiarist 
to  do.  When  honey  is  plentiful  and  the  weather  favourable,  but 
not  before,  put  on  supers,  beginning  with  the  most  advanced. 
Frequently  have  I  had  five  tiers  of  supers  completed  on  one  hive. 
All  those  who  manage  their  hives  on  the  lines  I  advise  will 
readily  perceive  there  ought  not  to  be  less  than  five  tiers  or  supers  on 
hand  to  get  the  advantages  of  a  good  season.  There  are  few  bee¬ 
keepers  who  cannot  make  their  own  supers  or  section  crates. 
These  ought  to  rest  on  the  sides  of  the  hive,  so  as  to  take  the 
weight  of  the  frames,  and  prevent  bees  escaping  between  hive  and 
super  protector.  The  last  named  is  an  absolute  necessity  to  all 
hives,  especially  to  those  moved  to  and  from  the  Heather.  ^  It 
keeps  the  hive  at  a  uniform  temperature,  and,  as  the  name  implies, 
secures  protection  to  the  supers.  Many  an  accident  has  occurred 
by  moving  bees  from  one  place  to  another  with  the  supers  unpro¬ 
tected.  When  small  supers  are  used  be  careful  to  have  thein  all 
one  depth,  and  the  section  crates  rather  deeper  than  the  sections. 
Keeping  the  top  edges  of  the  crates  level  with  the  sections  is 
perhaps  good  enough,  but  wood  varies  with  the  weather  a  great 
