354 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
October  10, 1896, 
and  trees  worked  on  them  when  trained  in  restricted  forms  frequently 
root  deeper  than  is  desirable,  large  amounts  of  unfruitful  wood  being 
produced.  Root-pruning  is  then  necessary  to  keep  them  within  proper 
bounds  and  promote  the  formation  of  fruit  Puds. 
Effects  of  Root-pruning. — The  first  effect  of  root-pruning  is  to  at 
once  reduce  the  flow  of  sap  to  the  wood,  which  it  does  most  advan¬ 
tageously  for  the  future  welfare  of  the  tree,  providing  it  is  not  carried 
out  too  severely.  When  a  strong  root  is  severed  the  returning  sap  is 
arrested,  and  caused  so  to  accumulate  in  the  portions  of  roots  left  that 
lateral  roots  are  emitted  from  the  strong  ones,  but  they  are  naturally 
weak  in  comparison  with  those  from  which  they  spring.  This  weakness 
is  no  fault,  but  rather  an  advantage,  especially  if  roots  of  this  character 
issue  numerously  from  the  cut-back  roots.  They  'are  known  as  fibrous 
roots,  and  are  far  more  useful  for  the  production  of  short-jointed  Wood, 
fruit  buds,  and  fruit,  than  gross  roots  can  ever  be. 
The  tendency  of  fibrous  roots  is  to  work  horizontally  near  the  surface, 
where  they  are  well  within  the  influence  of  warmth  and  the  supply  of 
moisture  and  food.  They  are  furnished  with  minute  root-hairs,  through 
whose  numberless  and  delicately  fine  extremities  the  liquid  and  gaseous 
elements  in  the  soil  are  absorbed  into  the  root  circulation,  and  carried 
forward  to  every  part  of  the  tree.  Thus  the  quality  of  the  work  they 
perform  is  higher,  and  the  general  results  better  than  can  be  attained 
to  by  deep,  strong  roots,  though  some  of  the  latter  must  necessarily  be 
present,  and  descend  to  a  fair  depth  for  the  purpose  of  holding  a  tree  in 
position.  .  <  . 
Bushes  and  Root-pruning  is  usually  best  when  carried 
out  on  two  separate  occasions,  treating  one-half  bf  the  roots  each  season, 
so  as  not  to  give  too  serious  a  check  at  one  time.  This  is  particularly 
necessary  with  old  trees,  which  may  have  numerous  roots  of  a  strong 
character  descending  that  it  is  highly  desirable  to  check,  but  to  do  all 
as  severely  as  needful  might  be  ruinous  to  the  subsequent  growth. 
In  commencing  operations  describe  a  radius  of  3  to  3^  feet  from  the 
stem,  and  outside  this  proceed  to  cut  a  trench,  severing  all  strong  roots 
as  found,  but  preserve  all  the  small  and  fibrous,  turning  them  on  one 
side,  and  keep  from  drying.  When  a  fair  sized  trench  has  been  dug  out 
the  mass  must  be  undermined  and  drawn  slightly  over  by  inclining  the 
tree  to  the  opposite  side.  This  movement  will  reveal  the  position  of  the 
roots  sought  for,  and  they  may  be  cut,  including  the  tap  root,  as  well  as 
others  descending  straight  down.  Each  root  must  be  cut  smoothly 
across  before  it  is  finally  left,  so  that  it  may  have  a  chance  of  healing 
properly,  and  quickly  becoming  furnished  with  fibrous  rootlets.  Jagged 
and  injured  roots  do  not  heal  well,  sometimes  not  at  all,  but  eventually 
die  back.  Raise  the  roots  a  little  higher  as  far  as  possible,  working  in 
some  fresh  loam  with  the  best  of  that  taken  out,  compressing  all  firmly 
as  the  roots  are  spread  and  covered.  Mulch'  when  finished  with 
partially  decayed  manure  an  inch  thick. 
Younger  trees  may  safely  be  root-pruned  entirely  round,  unless 
judging  by  the  strength  of  the  growth  made  it  is  evident  there  are  many 
deep  roots,  when  partial  root-pruning  will  be  safest. 
Cordon  Trees. — A  slight  root-pruning  whenever  the  growth  appears 
to  be  becoming  too  strong  will  check  the  latter  tendency,  cutting  off  all 
roots  beyond  the  distance  of  2  feet  6  inches  from  the  stem.  In  some 
cases  lifting  and  replanting  might  be  adopted,  but  the  trees  must  not  be 
in  any  degree  deficient  in  fibrous  roots  to  render  the  operation  safe. 
Wall  Trees, — Horizontally  trained  wall  trees  throwing  out  very 
strong  foreright  shoots  may  be  treated  similarly  to  bushes  and 
pyramids,  but  the  trees  must  not  be  moved  out  of  their  original  position. 
The  perpendicular  descending  roots  should  be  reached  by  undermining, 
and  when  the  root-pruning  must  be  severe  only  treat  half  the  roots  at 
once. 
FRUIT  FORGING.  ■  ' 
Vines. — Early  Forced  in  Pots. — To  have  Grapes  ripe  in  March  the 
Vines  should  not  be  started  later  than  the  beginning  of  November.  For 
this  early  work  strong,  short- jointed,  plump-budded,  thoroughly  ripened 
canes  are  neeessary,  and  they  should  be  of  the  early  ripening  and  good 
forcing  varieties,  such  as  White  Frontignan,  Foster’s  Seedling,  and 
Black  Hamburgh.  Madresfield  Court  also  forces  well,  and  is  seen  to 
great  advantage,  either  for  table  or  marketing  early  in  the  season.  The 
best  canes  are  those  from  cut-back  Vines  started  early  in  the  year  and 
grown  on  in  plenty  of  light  so  as  to  perfect  the  growth  and  wood  by  the 
close  of  July  or  early  in  August.  This  allows  for  a  short  period  of  rest 
before  starting,  and  whatever  may  be  true  about  plants  not  resting  from 
a  technical  point  of  view,  it  is  certain  that  Nature  and  practice  act  on 
this  plan  beneficially  to  vegetation  and  the  production  of  crops.  Vines 
in  pots  always  mark  the  advantage  of  bottom  heat  by  starting  well. 
Provided  there  is  a  pit  about  3  feet  deep  and  4  feet  in  width,  the  pots 
may  be  raised  on  bricks  in  pillar  fashion,  so  that  their  rims  are  slightly 
higher  than  the  pit  edge,  and  so  that  the  pots  will  be  in  the  centre  of 
the  bed.  Leaves  of  Beech  or  Oak  trees  being  placed  in  to  fill  the  pit,  a 
gentle  warmth  will  be  afforded,  and  the  roots  will  pass  from  the  pots 
into  the  bed  of  leaves. 
The  temperature  ought  not  to  exceed  70°  at  the  base  of  the  pots  at 
the  commencement,  which  will  afford  a  uniform  heat  of  about  65°  to  the 
roots,  that  being  sufficient  until  the  Vines  break  and  are  coming  into 
leaf,  when  it  may  be  gradually  raised  to  between  70°  and  75°.  The 
atmospheric  temperature  should  be  maintained  at  50°  to  5.5°  by  artificial 
means  until  the  buds  swell,  then  gradually  raise  it  to  60°  or  65°  when 
they  are  breaking.  Press  the  canes  to  a  horizontal  position  to  insure 
the  buds  starting  regularly.  Damp  the  Vines  in  the  morning  ■  nd 
afternoon,  and  the  surfaces  of  the  house  when  they  become  dry.  Water 
should  be  given  carefully  at  the  roots,  not  supplying  more  than  sufficient 
to  keep  the  soil  fairly  moist,  as  a  wet  soil  is  not  favourable  for  root- 
formation  and  the  supply  of  nourishment,  whilst  a  soddened  condition  is 
fatal  to  the  health  of  the  Vines  and  crop.  ' 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Vines. — Houses  that  are  to  be  forced  to 
furnish  ripe  Grapes  early  in  April  should  be  started  by  the  middle  of 
November.  It  is  not  desirable,  however,  to  start  permanently  planted 
Vines  so  early,  but  young  canes  specially  prepared  for  such  work  in 
narrow  shallow  borders  and  with  bottom  heat,  as  accorded  to  Cucumbers 
and  Melons,  answer  admirably,  and  in  the  case  of  Muscats,  such  as 
Madresfield  Court  and  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  bring  good  prices  during  the 
London  season,  or  when  late  Grapes  are  shrinking,  and  freshly  ripe  fruit 
of  high  excellence  in  size,  colour,  and  quality  is  greatly  prized.  Early 
forcing  is  a  great  strain  on  the  energies  of  the  Vines  through  their 
having  to  make  their  growth  at  the  dullest  period  of  the  year,  and  to 
rest  at  the  hottest.  The  house,  after  the  pruning  the  Vines,  dressing  the 
wounds  with  styptic  or  patent  knotting,  and  the  rods  with  an  insecticide 
or  that  and  a  fungicide  combined,  cleansing  thoroughly,  should  be  kept 
cool  and  dry. 
If  permanent  Vines,  and  the  roots  have  the  run  of  outside  as  well  as 
inside  borders,  the  exposed  should  be  protected,  a  good  covering  of  dry 
leaves,  with  a  little  litter  to  prevent  their  blowing  about,  is  efficient. 
If  spare  lights  be  employed  to  throw  off  heavy  rains  and  snow, 
nothing  more  need  be  done  to  outside  borders,  and  they  may  not  be 
covered  until  they  have  been  well  moistened  by  the  autumn  rains,  yet 
before  they  become  excessively  saturated  and  much  reduced  in  tempera¬ 
ture,  Where,  however,  fermenting  materials  are  ■  available  and  there  is 
a  continued  supply,  they  are  a  great  aid  to  forcing  operations,  especially 
for  placing  inside  the  house  to  generate  and  maintain  a  genial  condition 
of  the  atmosphere,  without  recourse  to  so  much  fire  heat  or  sprinklings 
from  the  syringe.  The  materials  need  not  be  used  until  the  house  is 
closed,  but  they  will  require  to  be  thrown  into  a  heap  a  week  or  ten  days 
previously,  being  turned  and  moistened,  if  necessary.  Three  parts  of 
Oak  or  Beech  leaves  to  one  of  stable  litter  will  give  a  more  suitable  and 
durable  warmth  and  genial  moisture— ammonia  charged— than  all  dung. 
Mix  the  materials  well  together  when  thrown  into  the  heap,  damping  if 
dry,  turning  when  getting  warm,  again  damping  if  necessary,  and  when 
again  warmed  through  they  are  fit  for  placing  in  the  house. 
Late  Grapes. — These  will  be  thoroughly  ripe  if  they  were  assisted  in 
the  spring  and  early  summer  by  fire  heat,  which  is  much  preferable  to 
having  to  maintain  a  forcing  temperature  after  October  comes  in  to 
secure  the  ripening  of  the  Grapes.  In  the  latter  case  the  temperature 
must  not  be  less  than  70°  to  75°  in  the  daytime,  and  65°  at  night,  falling 
5°  through  the  night,  allowing  an  advance  of  80°  to  85°  from  sun  heat, 
continuing  this  until  the  fruit  is  ripe  ;  at  least,  until  the  wood  is  brovra 
and  hard.  The  Grapes  being  thoroughly  ripe — in  which  state  only  can 
the  fruit  be  expected  to  winter  satisfactorily  —  and  the  wood  well 
matured,  all  sprays  or  laterals  may  be  removed  down  to  the  main  buds, 
ventilating  freely  on  all  favourable  occasions,  leaving  a  little  on  con¬ 
stantly  to  prevent  a  stagnant  atmosphere.  Fire  heat  will  then  only  be 
necessary  to  prevent  the  temperature  falling  below  50°. 
To  prevent  dust  settling  on  the  berries  raking  or  sweeping  must  not 
be  practised.  Mats  or  clean  dry  straw  laid  over  the  inside  borders  will 
to  some  extent  prevent  evaporation,  assist  in  keeping  the  atmosphere  dry, 
and  prevent  the  soil  cracking.  The  outside  border  must  be  covered  if 
the  Grapes  are  to  keep  satisfactorily.  Glass  lights  are  best,  wooden 
shutters  good,  and  tarpaulin  over  dry  bracken  or  litter  answers  well. 
A  thick  thatch  of  straw  or  bracken  is  very  serviceable.  Where  the 
soil  is  exceptionally  well  drained  Grapes  keep  well  without  protec¬ 
tion  for  the  outside  borders,  but  some  material  to  exclude  frost  is 
desirable,  protecting  the  stems  if  outside  or  exposed,  with  haybands. 
When  borders  become  soddened  and  cold  the  Grapes  often  damp  badly, 
and  when  there  is  too  little  moisture  in  the  soil  they  shrivel.  Judgment 
is  necessary  in  these  matters. 
Melons. — Late  plants  are  bearing  and  swelling  full  crops,  the 
weather  having  been  singularly  favourable,  but  now  that  there  has  been 
a  change  from  tropical  heat  to  typical  British  October  weather  water 
must  be  given  very  carefully,  yet  the  latest  plants  must  not  be  allowed 
to  become  dry  at  the  roots.  Keep  up  moderate  moisture  by  damping 
every  morning  and  at  closing  time,  earthing  up  the  plants  as  required, 
but  a  large  amount  of  soil  is  not  required  for  late  Melons.  Remove  all 
superfluous  growths  as  they  appear,  and  maintain  a  temperature  of  65° 
to  70°  at  night,  70°  to  75°  by  day,  up  to  85°  or  90°  with  sun.  Keep  the 
bottom  heat  at  about  80°.  Fruit  ripening  will  be  better  of  a  little  extra 
heat  and  a  circulation  of  air  constantly  ;  a  dry  state  at  the  roots,  but 
not  so  as  to  cause  the  leaves  to  flag,  accelerates  the  ripening  process.  To 
insure  quality  at  this  season — indeed,  at  any  time — the  foliage  must  be 
kept  thin,  all  superfluoua  laterals  being  cut  out,  so  as  to  afford  the 
principal  leaves  the  benefit  of  the  autumn. 
In  manure-heated  pits  and  frames  no  water  will  be  required  after 
this.  Keep  the  frames  well  lined,  admitting  a  little  air  constantly, 
which,  with  the  fruit  raised  well  above  the  surface  of  the  bed,  will  do 
much  to  impart  flavour.  Any  fruit  it  is  wished  to  keep  for  a  time 
should  be  cut  when  changing  for  ripening,  with  a  good  portion  of  stem, 
and  be  kept  in  a  dry,  airy  room  or  house  ;  if  wanted  to  ripen  at  once 
they  may  be  placed  in  a  warm  house  in  the  full  sun,  and  they  then 
ripen  better  than  in  frames  or  pits  devoid  of  artificial  heat  ;  and 
although  they  may  not  be  as  full  flavoured  as  those  ripened  on  the 
plants  in  a  good  heat,  they  are  welcome  additions  to  the  dessert. 
Artificial  heat  is  absolutely  necessary  to  complete  the  ripening  of  Melons 
at  this  time  of  year,  and  where  it  cannot  be  given  to  the  frames,  and  the 
fruit  is  full  grown,  it  should  be  cut  as  described  above,  anl  ripened  in  a 
place  that  is  warm  and  dry. 
