378 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
October  17,  1896. 
Diatribution  of  Garden  Produce,”  by  the  Chairman  of  the  above  Associa¬ 
tion  (Dr.  Groves,  B.A.,  F.G.S.,  J.P.),  to  whom,  ably  assisted  by  Mr. 
S.  Heaton,  F.R  H.S.,  the  Technical  Instructor  in  Horticulture  under  the 
County  Council,  the  horticulturists  in  the  Isle  of  Wight  are  indebted  for 
inaugurating  this  and  various  other  meetings  throughout  the  season. 
— C.  Ohchaed. 
WORK.for.'ireWEEK.  S 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Feacbes  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Forced  House. — The  trees  are 
now  at  rest  and  promise  well,  the  buds  of  the  standard  forcing  varieties, 
such  as  Royal  George  and  Stirling  Castle,  not  being  too  large.  This  is  a 
good  sign,  as  Peaches  and  Nectarines  subjected  to  forcing  year  after 
year  are  liable  to  have  the  buds  swelled  to  a  large  size,  and  these  not 
unfrequently  fall  when  they  should  be  starting  into  blossom.  Some 
kinds  are  more  prone  to  this  defect  than  others.  Of  the  very  early 
varieties,  Alexander  and  Waterloo  are  the  worst,  often  casting  most  of 
the  buds,  and  it  certainly  is  due  to  over-development,  as  the  buds  on 
sub- laterals  (as  occurs  from  stopping  on  the  standard  system)  are  retained 
and  the  blossoms  develop  perfectly  and  the  fruit  sets  profusely,  while 
on  the  lateral  or  first  made  shoots  the  buds  are  large  and  drop  in 
showers. 
Hale’s  Early,  the  very  best  of  the  early  Peaches  taking  quality 
into  consideration,  casts  many  buds,  being  little  better  than  Early 
York,  which  drops  the  blossom  buds  alarmingly.  Noblesse,  h’owever, 
stands  at  the  head  in  liability  to  cast  its  buds,  then  comes  Gros  Mig- 
nonne,  and  both  these  have  a  tendency  to  form  double  or  triple  fruit 
buds  without  a  wood  bud  at  the  same  joint,  also  to  form  buds  with 
two  or  three  pistils  in  embryo,  in  due  course  developing  into  twin  or 
triplet  fruit.  This  is  what  is  meant  by  over-maturity  of  the  buds,  and  is 
common  to  all  large-flowered  varieties  of  Peaches  and  Nectarines,  which 
probably  arises  from  a  prolonged  season  of  growth,  with  a  decided  ten¬ 
dency  to  over-production. 
The  small-flowered  varieties,  such  as  Early  Gilbert,  Early  Louise, 
Stirling  Castle,  Royal  George,  and  Dymond  Peaches,  retain  the  buds 
well,  and  the  three  last  are  the  best  of  early  forced,  being  high  in  colour 
and  of  unquestionable  quality.  Of  Nectarines  Early  Rivers  and 
Stanwick  Elruge  are  excellent  for  early  forcing.  Bud-casting  seems 
influenced  to  a  great  extent  by  treatment,  and  in  the  case  of  early  forced 
trees  it  is  necessary  to  keep  them  as  cool  as  possible  after  the  fruit  is 
gathered  consistent  with  their  safety,  even  shading  where  the  panes  of 
glass  are  large  and  the  weather  bright  and  hot  for  prolonged  periods, 
and  remove  the  roof  lights  when  the  wood  becomes  sufficiently  mature. 
Where  this  has  been  done  the  borders  have  got  thoroughly  moistened  to 
the  drainage,  and  when  that  is  the  case  and  the  buds  are  not  over¬ 
matured  there  is  little  danger  of  their  falling. 
The  trees  should  be  pruned,  the  house  thoroughly  cleansed,  lime¬ 
washing  the  walls  with  a  handful  of  sulphur  added  to  a  pailful  of 
limewash,  and  the  trees  washed  with  tepid  softsoap,  preferably  carbolic, 
1  j  oz,  to  a  gallon  of  water,  using  a  brush  and  taking  care  not  to  dislocate 
the  buds.  This  may  be  followed  by  a  more  powerful  insecticide,  the 
petroleum  emulsions,  and  indeed  all  oils  properly  saponised,  emulsified, 
or  made  soluble  and  innocuous  to  vegetation,  having  fungicidal  as  well 
as  insecticidal  value.  Tie  the  trees  to  the  trellis,  forwarding  everything 
so  that  a  start  can  be  made  without  delay  when  the  proper  time  arrives. 
The  lights  should  remain  oflE  until  the  time  of  closing  the  house,  or  if 
the  lights  are  fixed,  which  is  a  great  mistake,  as  it  causes  the  trees  to  be 
subjected  to  alternating  fluctuations  and  depressions  both  of  heat  and 
moisture.  The  icside  border  must  not  lack  moisture,  but  be  made  and 
kept  in  a  damp  state  down  to  the  drainage,  and  air  be  given  to  the 
fullest  possible  extent.  No  amount  of  frost  will  injure  properly  matured 
wood,  and  the  buds  are  never  injured  by  frost  until  they  commence 
growing. 
Second  Early  House. — For  second  early  forcing  there  are  no  better 
varieties  than  Hale’s  Early,  A  Bee,  Stirling  Castle,  Royal  George,  and 
Dymond  Peaches  ;  Rivers’  Early,  Lord  Napier,  Goldoni,  Stanwick 
Elruge,  and  Dryden  Nectarines.  The  trees  have  for  the  most  part  cast 
their  leaves,  the  roof  lights  having  been  off  some  time,  for  if  kept  over 
the  trees  longer  than  usual,  as  sometimes  is  necessary  when  the  wood  is 
strong  to  mature  it  properly,  they  must  now  be  removed.  The  ven¬ 
tilating  lights  both  top  and  bottom  may  remain,  so  that  the  unfixing 
and  refixing  of  them  is  obviated,  whilst  the  trees  have  complete  exposure 
to  atmospheric  influences.  The  exposure  has  an  invigorating  effect ;  it 
secures  perfect  rest,  and  the  rains  do  much  to  free  the  trees  of  insects, 
besides  thoroughly  moistening  the  borders.  When  the  foliage  is  all 
down  the  necessary  pruning,  dressing  with  an  insecticide,  and  the 
cleansing  of  the  house  should  be  proceeded  with,  removing  the  surface 
soil  down  to  the  roots  and  supplying  fresh  material,  but  not  covering 
the  roots  deeper  than  2  or  3  inches.  In  the  case  of  fixed  roof  lights 
watering  may  be  necessary.  Under  no  conditions  must  the  trees  be 
allowed  to  become  dry  at  the  roots. 
Midseason  Houses. — The  trees  in  these  are  just  in  the  right  condition 
for  lifting.  It  should  be  done  with  dispatch  when  it  is  decided  on, 
having  all  the  materials  in  readiness.  It  is  not,  however,  safe  to  operate 
until  the  major  part  of  the  leaves  have  fallen,  yet  not  wise  to  wait  till 
the  green  leaves  on  the  laterals  mature,  as  these  will  not  drop  for  some 
time,  and  they  may  be  useful  in  promoting  root  action  in  lifted  trees. 
Provide  efficient  drainage,  shortening  back  any  strong  roots,  and  bring 
any  that  are  deep  nearer  the  surface,  laying  all  in  the  top  foot  of  soil 
and  employing  the  compost  compactly.  Good  loam,  rather  strong,  with 
an  admixture  of  a  sixth  of  old  mortar  rubbish,  will  grow  Peaches  and 
Nectarines  perfectly.  If  the  soil  be  light  add  a  fourth  of  clayey  marl, 
dried  and  pounded,  and  if  very  strong  a  similar  quantity  of  road 
scrapings,  avoiding  manure  except  the  soil  be  poor,  then  add  a  fifth  of 
decayed  cowdung  to  light  and  a  similar  quantity  of  horse  droppings  to 
heavy  loam. 
Give  a  good  watering  after  lifting  and  replanting,  and  the  trees  will 
soon  get  established  in  the  fresh  compost.  Trees  judiciously  treated  at 
the  roots  seldom  fail  to  set  and  stone  the  fruit  satisfactorily.  Borders 
containing  soil  in  a  soapy  mass,  where  it  is  not  possible  to  remove  it, 
may  have  a  dressing  of  air-slaked  lime,  an  inch  thick  is  not  too  much, 
mixing  it,  after  lying  a  few  days  with  the  surface  soil  as  deeply  as  the 
roots  allow  without  much  disturbance.  Nothing,  however,  is  so  effectual 
as  lifting  and  renovating  the  border. 
Latest  Houses. — Except  from  the  latest  varieties,  of  which  Golden 
Eagle  is  one  of  the  best,  the  fruit  is  all  gathered.  Trees  from  which  it 
has  been  gathered  should  have  the  bearing  wood  of  the  current  year  cut 
out,  leaving  no  more  wood  of  this  year’s  production  than  is  required  for 
filling  vacant  space  and  affording  fruit  next  year.  The  foliage  should 
be  thoroughly  cleansed  of  dust  or  insect  pests  by  a  few  good  washings 
from  the  syringe  or  garden  engine.  After  that  the  trees  will  not  require 
syringing,  dryness  with  thorough  exposure  of  the  wood  to  light  and  air 
being  essential  to  the  perfecting  of  the  wood  and  bads.  Where  this  is 
not  effected  the  house  may  be  kept  rather  close  by  day,  so  as  to  secure 
a  good  heat,  there  being  of  course  enough  to  secure  a  free  circulation  of 
air,  and  the  house  should  be  fully  ventilated  at  night.  Any  trees  that 
have  too  gross  wood  should  have  a  trench  taken  out  as  deep  as  the  roots, 
and  about  one-third  the  distance  from  the  stem,  leaving  it  open  a 
fortnight,  then  filling  it  up  firmly. 
Figs. — Early  Forced  Trees  in  Pots. — Trees  intended  for  affording 
fruit  at  the  close  of  April  or  early  in  May  will  now  need  dressing  with 
an  insecticide,  carbolic  softsoap  3  ozs.  to  a  gallon  of  water  answering, 
applying  in  a  tepid  state  with  a  brush,  being  careful  not  to  injure  the 
points  of  the  shoots  or  rub  off  the  embryo  fruits.  Very  little  pruning 
will  be  necessary,  the  trees  having  been  regularly  stopped  during  the 
season,  but  if  the  growths  are  too  crowded  and  irregular  they  may  be 
thinned  to  render  the  trees  symmetrical.  The  house  in  which  the  trees 
are  forced  should  have  the  woodwork  and  walls  washed  with  hot  water, 
afterwards  whitewashing  the  latter  with  hot  lime  and  sulphur.  A  mild 
bottom  heat  is  almost  a  necessity  to  a  successful  swelling  and  perfecting 
of  the  earlier  crop,  the  pots  being  raised  upon  loose  bricks,  pedestal- 
fashion  in  the  positions  they  are  to  occupy  in  the  bed,  and  the  pit  filled 
with  Oak  or  Beech  leaves  pressed  firmly.  The  depth  of  the  pit  needs  to 
be  about  3  feet,  with  a  mixture  of  stable  litter  and  leaves,  one-third  of 
the  first  to  two-thirds  of  the  latter  ;  for  leaves  alone  the  depth  should  be 
4  to  feet. 
Care  must  be  taken  to  avoid  overheating,  not  allowing  the  temperature 
about  the  pots  to  exceed  65°  until  growth  takes  place.  The  trees  should 
be  started  about  the  middle  of  November,  bringing  them  forward  very 
gently,  keeping  the  house  close  and  moist  by  sprinkling  twice  a  day  in 
bright  weather,  employing  fire  heat  to  maintain  a  temperature  of  50°  at 
night,  55°  by  day,  and  with  sun  heat  60°  to  65°.  The  soil  in  the  pots 
must  be  brought  into  a  thoroughly  moist  condition  by  needful  watering. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Trees. — The  trees  should  now  be  untied 
from  the  trellis  and  the  needful  pruning  effected .  Those  with  the  roots  re¬ 
stricted  to  small  borders  will  only  require  to  have  the  shoots  thinned  where 
too  crowded,  cutting  back  growths  extended  to  the  limits  of  the  trellis- 
work  and  useless  for  fruit  production,  so  as  to  allow  space  for  the  suc- 
cessional  growth.  Trees  that  have  not  the  roots  restricted  will  require 
cutting  back  at  the  upper  part  of  the  trellis,  allowing  room  for  the  ex¬ 
tension  of  the  lower  fruitful  branches  ;  but  luxuriant  trees  may  be  poot- 
pruned,  or  the  cutting  out  of  growths  will  only  tend  to  render  the  trees 
more  unfruitful.  The  trees  may  be  washed  with  soapy  water  as  advised 
for  those  in  pots,  and  be  secured  to  the  trellis  loosely.  Cleanse  the 
house  thoroughly,  remove  the  loose  soil,  remains  of  mulching,  point  over 
with  a  fork,  and  apply  a  surface  dressing  of  fresh  loam,  and  sprinkle 
over  that  3  or  4  ozs.  per  square  yard  of  steamed  bonemeal,  and  on  that 
a  light  mulch  of  paitially  decayed  manure,  lumpy  yet  short.  Give  a 
good  watering,  ventilate  freely  at  all  times,  except  when  frost, prevails, 
then  keep  closed  and  turn  on  heat  to  exclude  it. 
Succession  Houses. — The  trees  are  not  ripening  the  wood  well  in  some 
cases,  and  it  will  be  wise  to  turn  on  the  heat  in  tiie  morning,  and  admit 
air  only  to  induce  a  circulation,  throwing  the  ventilators  open  at  night, 
the  heat  having  been  turned  off  at  midday.  This  will  assist  the 
maturation  of  the  foliage,  but  any  unfruitful  trees  must  be  root-pruned 
and  the  roots  restricted  to  moderate  sized  i  borders,  depending  more  on 
active  feeders  near  the  surface,  encouraged  by  light  mulching,  than  a 
large  extension  of  roots.  These  operations  must  be  performed  when  the 
leaves  give  indications  of  falling.  Make  the  soil  firm,  employing  one- 
sixth  of  old  mortar  rubbish  and  a  similar  proportion  of  road  scrapings. 
Fig  trees  always  do  better  with  roots  restricted  to  moderate  sized  borders, 
and  are  more  manageable  and  fruitful  when  the  roots  are  confined  to 
limited  space  than  those  with  an  unlimited  rooting  area.  Prune  the 
trees  when  the  leaves  have  fallen,  cleanse  the  house,  put  everything  in 
order.  Dress  the  trees  that  have  been  infested  with  insects  with  an 
