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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
October  24,  1895. 
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WQKK.FOfi.™EWEEK.. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN, 
Planting:  Fruit  Trees. — The  best  seagon  in  the  whole  year  is  now 
at  hand  for  the  planting  of  all  kinds  of  fruit  trees.  The  important  work 
which  the  leaves  perform  has  been  carried  out  and  they  will  rapidly  fall, 
leaving  the  material  they  have  elaborated  in  the  wood  and  buds  as  stored 
matter  for  the  future.  The  fibrous  roots,  however,  which  young  trees 
especially  possess  remain  in  a  very  active  condition  for  a  considerable 
time,  because  the  soil  medium  in  which  they  extend  under  favourable 
conditions  is  warm  and  moist.  This  is  the  reason  why  autumn  planting 
has  such  distinct  advantages  over  that  carried  out  at  other  seasons.  The 
vitality  contained  in  roots  at  this  season,  even  though  the  latter  are  not 
of  a  fibrous  character,  is  sufficient  to  induce  the  emission  of  such  and  to 
sufficiently  re-establish  young  trees  in  the  soil  that  they  will  start 
vigorously  into  growth  the  following  season. 
Preparation  of  the  Soil. — To  obtain  the  full  advantages  of  early 
and  careful  planting  it  is  essential  that  the  soil  be  fully  prepared.  It 
must  be  moved  and  broken  up  to  a  depth  of  2  feet  over  the  whole  extent 
of  ground  where  an  ordinary  quarter  or  plantation  is  about  to  be  planted. 
In  the  planting  of  individual  trees  to  fill  up  vacancies  the  preparation 
of  the  soil  should  be  no  less  thorough,  a  matter  sometimes  overlooked, 
and  ending  disastrously  where  the  soil  has  been  impoverished.  In  such 
cases,  or  where  standard  trees  only  are  planted,  the  ground  must  be 
prepared,  and,  if  necessary,  enriched  to  the  usual  depth  within  a  circle 
of  C  to  8  feet  diameter.  It  is  imperative  to  plant  standard  trees  wide 
apart,  usually  24  to  30  feet,  because  they  are  allowed  to  spread  and  to 
occupy  an  unrestricted  space  ;  therefore,  unless  smaller  trees  are  planted 
between  them,  complete  preparation  of  the  whole  area  of  ground  is  not 
rendered  necessary.  Similar  treatment  should  be  accorded  the  spaces 
for  wall  trees  at  the  proper  distances  apart,  cultivating  the  soil  within  a 
radius  of  4  feet  from  the  wall,  forming  a  semicircle. 
Draining. — Drrinage  is  a  very  important  matter  in  soils  where  water 
collects  in  the  subsoil  within  4  feet  of  the  surface.  Means  must  be 
employed  to  carry  it  away  in  order  that  the  ground  may  be  rendered 
and  continued  suitable  for  the  growth  of  healthy  and  productive  trees. 
Tile  drains  are  the  most  effective,  main  drains  being  of  4-inch  core, 
and  laid  feet  deep  with  a  gentle  fall  to  a  proper  outlet.  The  distance 
of  main  drains  may  be  24  to  30  feet  apart,  the  minor  or  subsidiary  pipes 
of  2-inch  core,  15  to  20  feet,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  soil,  their 
depth  being  3  feet,  allowing  them  a  sufficient  fall  and  laying  in  a 
diagonal  direction.  Heavy  retentive  soils  of  a  clayey  character  require 
the  drains  laying  closer  than  in  soils  or  subsoils  of  a  more  open  nature. 
Sites  for  planting  fruit  trees  are  often  effectually  drained  by  raising 
the  prepared  stations  above  the  surrounding  level,  the  trees  occupying 
an  elevated  position  when  planted.  This  keeps  the  roots  healthy  and 
vigorous  in  a  warm,  comparatively  dry,  rooting  medium.  When  this  is 
inconvenient  and  water  rises  too  high  in  the  subsoil,  a  cross  drain  should 
run  from  the  centre  of  each  station,  the  depth  of  the  latter  being  not 
less  than  2J  feet.  Over  the  tiles  should  be  laid  6  inches  of  broken 
stones,  large  pieces  at  the  bottom,  small  on  the  top,  the  whole  being 
covered  with  a  layer  of  turf  grass  side  downwards  before  filling  in  the 
soil.  Low-lying,  water-logged  positions  that  need  draining  are  frequently 
not  the  best  for  fruit  trees,  because  of  their  susceptibility  to  late  spring 
frosts,  and  the  liability  to  injury  the  essential  organs  of  the  flowers  are 
exposed  to  during  their  full  expansion  at  such  times. 
Obtaining  and  Selecting  Fruit  Trees. — The  proper  method  of  obtain¬ 
ing  fruit  trees  is  a  matter  worthy  of  the  best  attention.  Very  cheap 
trees  obtained  from  unreliable  sources  are  seldom  to  be  depended  on  as 
regards  correct  nomenclature,  quantity  of  fibrous  roots,  or  clean  healthy 
wood  of  a  fruitful  tendency.  In  establishing  fruit  trees  much  depends 
on  the  care  the  roots  receive  after  lifting  and  consigning  to  their  destina¬ 
tion.  Trees  secured  in  a  speculative,  haphazard  manner  often  prove  dear 
in  the  end.  Specimens  of  the  best  quality,  true  to  name,  vigorous  in 
constituMon,  fruitful  in  character,  carefully  removed,  and  packed  are 
recommended  to  be  secured  from  absolutely  trustworthy  quarters,  a  matter 
of  no  difficulty  when  the  trade  advertisements  are  studied.  Trees  of 
medium  strength,  according  to  variety  and  size,  well  ripened,  and  freely 
supplied  with  fibrous  roots,  ought  to  be  stipulated  for.  Two  or  three- 
year-old  trees  are  naturally  the  most  vigorous,  and  grow  without 
difficulty  from  the  first. 
Planting. — When  trees  are  received  from  nurseries  they  should  be 
immediately  unracked,  and  the  roots  laid  in  between  moist  soil.  If  by 
chance  they  have  become  very  dry  it  is  a  good  plan  to  thoroughly  soak 
the  dry  roots  in  water  before  laying  them  in.  The  fibres  will  under 
this  treatment  plump  and  freshen  up.  Prune  away  bruised  ends 
smoothly.  Before  removing  them  for  planting  prepare  the  holes  for 
their  reception,  which  may  be  about  9  inches  in  depth,  and  of  considerable 
width,  so  as  to  admit  of  the  roots  being  spread  out  to  their  full  extent. 
Arrange  them  in  layers,  introducing  some  fine  loamy  soil  between  them, 
spreading  it  outward  from  the  stem,  this  not  turning  up  the  rootlets  in  a 
wrong  direction.  Make  the  soil  firm  about  them.  The  upper  layers  of 
roots  may  be  about  3  or  4  inches  below  the  surface  when  finished.  Stake 
and  tie  each  tree  securely,  and  mulch  the  surface  as  far  as  the  roots 
extend  with  half-decayed  manure. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — Earliest  Vines  in  Pots. — Owing  to  the  thick,  shrunken, 
and  lost-colour  skin,  firm  and  raisin-like  flesh  of  high  quality,  late 
Grapes  kept  till  April,  soma  Grape  lovers  do  not  appreciate  them, 
but  desire  fresh,  plump,  glowing  in  colour  and  bloom,  juicy,  thin- 
skinned  berries  early  in  the  season.  In  this  case  it  is  necessary  to  start 
the  Vines  in  November,  so  as  to  have  ripe  Grapes  at  the  close  of  March 
or  early  in  April,  and  it  is  better  to  take  the  early  supply  from  Vines 
in  pots  than  to  start  the  permanently  planted  Vines  at  a  very  early 
period.  Vines  in  pots  of  such  varieties  as  White  Frontignan,  Foster’s* 
Seedling,  Black  Hamburgh,  and  Madresfield  Court  produce  fruit  little 
inferior  to  that  of  others  planted  out,  and  often  better  than  is  produced, 
by  those  not  having  the  roots  confined  to  inside  borders. 
Success  in  early,  indeed  any,  forcing  depends  on  the  varieties,  the 
development  of  the  growth,  and  its  perfect  maturation  in  the  season 
preceding.  The  canes,  therefore,  must  be  strong,  thoroughly  ripened, 
and  duly  rested.  Bottom  heat  is  not  absolutely  essential,  but  it  is  a 
great  aid  to  success  ;  and  where  there  is  convenience  for  affording  it  the 
materials — that  is,  tree  leaves  and  stable  litter — should  be  in  course  of 
preparation.  The  heat  to  begin  with  must  not  exceed  65°  about  the 
pots,  augmenting  it  by  bringing  up  the  fermenting  material  to  the  level 
of  the  pots  by  degrees,  so  as  to  raise  the  temperature  to  70°  to  75°  when 
the  Vines  are  in  leaf.  We  advise  the  pots  to  be  stood  on  pillars  of  loose 
bricks.  Let  the  canes  be  suspended  over  the  fermenting  materials  in  a 
horizontal  position  to  induce  the  buds  to  break  evenly.  The  soil  should 
be  moistened  through  to  the  drainage,  and  kept  so,  but  it  must  not  be 
made  very  wet,  or  the  root  formation  and  growth  will  not  be  satisfactory. 
Sprinkle  the  canes  three  times  a  day,  and  damp  every  part  of  the  house 
at  the  same  time  in  bright  weather.  In  order  (o  induce  regularity  of 
starting  a  somewhat  higher  temperature  is  necessary  at  this  period  than 
after  the  turn  of  the  days,  50°  to  55°  at  night,  and  60°  to  65°  by  day  is 
not  too  high  to  begin  with. 
Vines  in  pots  not  intended  for  early  forcing  should  be  placed  under 
cover,  an  open  shed  with  a  north  or  cool  aspect  being  suitable,  and 
the  pots  protected  against  frost  in  severe  weather,  for  the  Vines  may  be 
injured  or  destroyed  by  the  soil  becoming  frozen. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Vines. — Those  for  affording  fruit  at  the 
close  of  March  or  beginning  of  April  must  be  started  at  the  commence¬ 
ment  of  November.  Have  the  inside  border  properly  moistened  through 
down  to  the  drainage,  not  saturating  and  making  the  soil  sodden,  and  if 
the  Vine*  are  weakly  supply  liquid  manure  or  a  top-dressing  of  the 
advertised  chemical  manures  and  wash  in  moderately.  This  will  enrich 
the  soil  and  conduce  to  a  good  break  by  the  increased  food  supply  taken 
up  with  the  soil  moisture.  If  the  border  or  floor  of  the  house  is  covered 
with  leaves  and  litter  in  a  state  of  fermentation,  occasionally  turning 
the  material  and  adding  fresh,  the  moisture  and  warmth,  also  the 
perceptibly  ammonia-charged  atmosphere,  are  very  beneficial  to  the 
Vines,  and  make  a  considerable  difference  in  the  fuel  used.  The  outside 
border  must  have  a  covering  of  leaves,  litter,  or  fern  sloping  from  the 
house  outwards,  and  be  covered  with  spare  lights,  shutters,  tarpaulin, 
or  thatch,  so  as  to  throw  off  the  rain  or  snow.  Fermenting  material  is 
not  indispensable  for  placing  on  outside  borders,  but  the  warmth, 
if  it  can  be  maintained,  is  a  great  aid  in  keeping  the  roots  active  near 
the  surface.  Outside  borders,  however,  are  great  mistakes  for  Vines 
that  are  forced  early  year  after  year. 
Vines  for  Starting  in  December. — The  Vines  slarted  at  the  beginning 
of  that  month  will  afford  ripe  Grapes  in  April  if  of  the  early  or  Sweet¬ 
water  section,  such  as  Black  Hamburgh,  Mill  Hill  Hamburgh,  Foster’s 
Seedling  and  Buckland  Sweetwater,  also  Madresfield  Court,  an  admir¬ 
able  early  forcing  variety,  but  Muscat  of  Alexandria  will  not  ripen 
until  the  close  of  May  or  early  in  June,  and  to  do  well  requires  a  housn 
to  itself,  and  the  border  wholly  inside.  Prepare  the  house  for  starting, 
the  Vines  being  pruned  when  the  leaves  have  fallen,  as  it  contributes 
to  early  and  complete  rest,  besides  the  sap  is  not  wholly  at  rest  in  the 
winter  season  ;  indeed  there  is  no  such  thing  as  rest  in  Nature,  the  term, 
as  used  in  horticulture,  being  purely  a  necessary  but  convenient  con¬ 
vention,  as  the  sap  moves  more  or  less  and  the  buds  profit  accordingly, 
showing  it  by  afterwards  starting  strongly  through  the  preparation 
induced  by  early  pruning.  In  pruning,  two  buds  are  mostly  sufficient 
to  leave  for  affording  compact  bunches  of  Grapes.  Longer  pruning  may 
be  practised  when  the  Vines  are  required  to  give  fewer  and  larger 
bunches,  for  it  does  not  answer  to  allow  as  many  bunches  on  a  Vine  as 
of  medium  sized. 
Large  bunches  are.  as  a  rule,  loose,  irregular  in  size  of  berry,  and  do 
not  finish  satisfactorily  ;  medium  sized  bunches  are  more  regular  in 
form  and  size  of  berry,  and  finish  well.  If  the  buds  at  the  base  of  the 
shoots  are  not  plump,  three  eyes  may  be  left,  but  this  requires  frequent 
renewal  of  the  spurs.  The  Vines  should  be  stripped  of  loose  bark,  in 
fact  all  that  can  be  removed  without  peeling  them  or  injuring  the 
live  bark,  and  be  washed  with  carbolic  softeoap,  2  ozs.  to  a  gallon  of 
water.  This  is  all  that  is  necessary  where  the  Vines  are  free  from 
insects  and  where  there  has  not  been  any  scale  or  mealy  bug,  but  with 
infection  from  these  and  red  spider,  an  insecticide  should  be  used  or  the 
carbolic  softsoap  employed  at  double  strength.  The  woodwork  must  be 
thoroughly  cleansed,  if  necessary  painted,  and  the  walls  limewashed. 
If  fungous  pests  have  been  troublesome  dress  the  Vines  with  a  solution 
of  sulphate  of  iron,  1  lb.  to  a  gallon  of  water,  using  it  over  the  cuts  or 
wounds  made  in  'pruning,  and  a  handful  may  be  added  to  each  pailful 
of  limewash. 
Remove  the  surface  soil  down  to  the  roots,  and  supply  fresh  lumpy 
loam,  with  a  sprinkling  of  bonemeal  and  wood  ashes  intermixed,  about 
