OctoLer  21,  lS9o. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
401 
half  a  pint  of  bonemeal  and  a  quart  of  wood  aahei  to  each  bushel  of 
loam,  or  use  the  advertised  fertilisers  according  to  the  directions. 
Though  a  somewhat  dry  condition  of  the  soil  is  desirable,  the  border 
must  not  be  allowed  to  become  parched  and  cracked,  affording  water  if 
necessary,  but  not  saturating  the  soil  to  the  extent  of  making  it  sodden. 
Keep  the  house  cool,  admitting  air  freely  except  when  frost  prevails. 
If  the  house  is  occupied  with  plants  employ  fire  heat  only  to  exclude 
frost. 
Houses  of  Ripe  Orapes.—A.  temperature  of  50°  artificially  is  most 
suitable,  losing  no  opportunity  of  admitting  air  when  the  days  are  fine, 
turning  on  the  heat  in  the  morning,  so  as  to  cause  a  gentle  warmth  in 
the  pipes,  and  so  expel  damp,  turning  off  the  beat  about  midday,  or 
soon  after,  to  allow  the  pipes  to  cool  and  the  temperature  at  night 
not  to  be  kept  above  50°,  even  less  on  cold  nights,  but  a  slight  warmth  in 
the  pipes  will  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  berries  and 
preclude  “  spot,”  inasmuch  as  the  moisture  will  be  condensed  on  the 
glass  instead  of  the  Grapes.  A  low  night  temperature  causes  the 
moisture  present  in  the  atmosphere  to  be  rapidly  condensed  on  the 
Grapes  in  the  early  part  of  a  fine  day,  when  the  heat  is  not  turned  on 
early  and  air  admitted,  the  sun  heating  the  atmosphere  much  quicker 
than  the  Grapes.  This  must  not  be  overlooked,  and  during  the 
prevalence  of  dull  weather  it  will  be  necessary  to  keep  a  gentle  warmth 
in  the  pipes,  the  ventilators  closed  or  nearly,  yet  there  will  be  a  circula¬ 
tion  of  air,  causing  the  moisture  to  settle  on  the  glass,  thereby  preserv¬ 
ing  the  Grapes  from  damp. 
Vines  Ripening  the  Wood. — Vines  not  yet  firm  in  the  wood,  the 
foliage  quite  green,  and  the  wood  not  brown,  should  have  the  laterals 
closely  pinched,  bringing  them  down  by  degrees  to  the  principal  buds, 
which  will  have  a  tendency  to  promote  maturity  by  admitting  more 
light,  especially  if  air  is  admitted  freely  at  night,  but  with  the  exclusion 
of  frost,  the  house  being  kept  rather  warm  by  day,  yet  not  close,  as  that 
would  have  a  tendency  to  induce  growth.  When  growth  in  the  laterals 
is  checked  the  shoots  may  be  shortened  to  a  few  leaves  above  the  pruning 
buds.  This  will  assist  the  basal  buds  to  plump  and  the  wood  to  ripen, 
a  gentle  warmth  being  kept  in  the  pipes  and  air  freely  admitted. 
Pines. — New  beds  are  usually  prepared  at  this  time  of  year  for  the 
reception  of  young  plants.  Tan  is  unquestionably  the  best  material,  the 
heat  being  more  regular,  and  retained  longer  than  any  other.  Beds  formed 
of  it  should  not  be  made  firm,  but  put  together  lightly.  Oak  or  Beech 
leaves  are  good  for  furnishing  bottom  heat  over  a  lengthened  period,  and 
a  good  substitute  for  tan.  Collect  the  leaves  as  dry  as  possible.  In 
forming  beds  they  should  be  pressed  firmly,  so  that  they  may  not  sink 
too  much,  and  also  to  regulate  the  heat,  preventing  it  from  becoming  too 
violent  and  soon  expended,  instead  of  giving  a  regular  warmth  over  a 
lengthened  period. 
Young  plants  must  be  afforded  liberal  ventilation  whenever  the 
weather  is  favourable,  avoiding  too  much  moisture  in  the  houses  or  pits, 
as  overdamping,  keeping  the  atmosphere  constantly  saturated,  is  more 
injurious  than  beneficial  at  this  time  of  year.  Examine  the  plants  once 
a  week  for  water,  supplying  as  required,  for  dryness  at  the  roots 
stunts  the  growth,  and  is  very  pernicious,  as  the  plants  seldom,  if  ever, 
make  free  growth  afterwards. 
Fruiting  plants  should  have  a  night  temperature  of  70°,  65°  in  cold 
weather,  75°  by  day,  rising  to  85°  from  sun  heat,  losing  no  opportunity 
of  closing  at  85°, and  affording  genial  surroundings  by  damping  the  paths 
and  walls  when  they  become  dry.  Retain  one  sucker  only  to  each 
plant,  removing  all  others.  Any  suckers  appearing  on  successional 
plants  before  the  fruit  is  visible  should  be  removed,  except  an  increase 
of  stock  is  urgent,  when  one  or  more  may  remain,  but  it  is  not  a  good 
practice,  as  the  fruit  is  more  or  less  prejudiced  by  the  suckers. 
Cucumbers.  —  The  autumn  or  early  winter  fruiters  are  now  in  full 
bearing.  The  plants  must  not  be  overcropped,  therefore  cut  the  fruit 
when  it  becomes  of  useable  size,  also  remove  all  ill-shapen  and  surplus 
fruit.  Go  over  the  plants  once  a  week  at  least  and  remove  all  bad 
leaves,  stopping  and  tying  the  growth,  laying  in  no  more  wood  than 
can  have  full  exposure  to  light,  cutting  away  the  superfluous  shoots. 
Winter  fruiters  do  best  if  allowed  to  extend  well  up  the  trellis  before 
stopping  them,  removing  all  side  growths  on  tho  stem  up  to  the  trellis, 
and  train  the  growths  right  and  left  of  the  stem,  not  too  closely,  as  well- 
developed  foliage  is  very  important.  Remove  all  male  flowers,  and 
cut  off  tendrils  as  they  appear.  Add  fresh,  warmed  soil  as  often  as  the 
roots  have  fairly  covered  the  sides  of  the  ridges  or  hillocks,  and  if  they 
need  vigour,  or  are  pale  in  colour  of  the  leaves,  use  a  little  soot,  and  an 
•  occasional  dusting  of  the  bed  with  a  little  superphosphate  will  tend  to 
improve  the  substance  of  the  whole  plant. 
Maintain  a  temperature  of  70°  on  mild,  65° on  cold  nights,  70°  to  75°  by 
day  artificially,  advancing  to  80°,  85°  or  90°  with  sun  heat.  Admit  a  little 
air  at  the  top  of  the  house  onallfavourableoccasions,  but  avoid  admitting 
cold  air  and  never  lower  the  temperature.  It  is  better  to  shut  oif  the 
top  heat  for  a  few  hours  when  the  sun  is  powerful  than  to  ve^itilate  the 
house  when  the  wind  is  very  strong  or  cold,  for  it  dries  the  air  and 
causes  a  chill.  The  plants  will  not  need  syringing  except  on  very  fine 
days,  when  a  light  damping  is  beneficial,  but  the  paths  and  other  avail¬ 
able  surfaces  should  be  damped  in  the  morning  and  afternoon,  and  on 
bright  days  shortly  after  midday,  keeping  the  evaporation  trough  charged 
with  liquid  manure.  The  water  given  to  the  roots  must  be  of  the  same 
temperature  as  the  bed  or  the  mean  of  the  house,  and  be  supplied 
whenever  the  soil  becomes  dry,  not  allowing  the  foliage  to  become 
distressed  pr  to  flag  ;  but  before  that  becomes  limp  afford  a  thorough 
supply  of  that  element  or  weak  warm  liquid  manure.  The  soil  used  for 
covering  the  roots  should  be  had  inside  some  time  to  be  warmed  before 
placing  it  over  the  roots. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Begonias. — Such  Begonias  as  manicata  and  hydrocotylifolia  must  be 
removed  from  cold  frames,  for  they  are  too  damp  for  them,  and  if 
allowed  to  remain  much  longer  their  large  foliage  will  be  injured. 
They  will  do  very  well  for  some  time  in  a  cool  house  provided  the  air 
is  kept  dry  and  the  plants  watered  with  care.  While  under  these  con¬ 
ditions  they  should  be  kept  rather  dry,  but  not  to  such  an  extent  as  to 
injure  their  roots.  No  more  water  should  be  thrown  about  the  house 
than  is  necessary  when  the  plants  are  watered,  which  should  be  done 
in  the  morning.  After  a  spell  of  dull  days  it  may  be  necessary  to  use  a 
little  fire  heat  in  order  to  expel  moisture  from  the  atmosphere. 
Celoslas. — The  majority  of  the  stock  prepared  for  autumn  and  early 
winter  decoration  will  be  sturdy  plants  with  their  plumes  well  developed, 
unless  they  have  been  hurried  in  their  last  stages.  When  necessary  to 
pnsh  them  forward  in  heat  they  soon  run  up  tall,  and  are  soft,  which 
necessitates  great  care  when  they  are  removed  to  cooler  quarters.  Plants 
in  this  condition  must  be  screened  from  cold  draughts,  or  their  foliage 
will  fail,  and  if  overwatered  they  quickly  damp  off.  Those  brought 
forward  under  cool  conditions  ure  far  less  liable  to  suffer  from  damp. 
These  will  be  safe  in  any  structure  where  the  night  temperature  does 
not  fall  below  50°.  When  they  require  water  apply  it  only  in  a  tepid 
state.  If  any  of  these  plants  were  in  a  backward  condition,  grow  them 
close  to  the  glass  in  a  temperature  of  60°,  with  a  good  circulation  of  air 
day  and  night,  which  will  prevent  their  lengthening  too  quickly. 
Cyclamen. — When  it  is  necessary  to  keep  these  plants  in  cold  frames 
for  some  time  longer  they  must  be  watered  with  care  and  freely  venti¬ 
lated,  or  the  foliage  is  liable  to  become  spotted,  and  the  flower  buds  to 
damp  off.  Where  practicable  remove  them  to  a  light  airy  structure, 
where  the  atmospheric  conditions  can  be  regulated  to  suit  them.  The 
main  stock  of  these  plants  will  ni  t  require  any  artificial  heat  for  some 
time  to  come.  If  a  few  plants  are  required  in  flower  remove  the  most 
forward  to  a  shelf  close  to  the  glass,  where  a  temperature  of  55°  is  main¬ 
tained.  Give  a  little  air  day  and  night  to  prevent  the  foliage  drawing. 
Water  carefully,  but  do  not  allow  them  to  suffer  by  an  insufficient 
supply.  Weak  stimulants  may  be  given  to  all  that  have  filled  their  pots 
with  roots. 
Heliotropes. — Plants  that  have  been  grown  outside  and  housed  some 
time  ago  will  soon  come  into  flower  in  a  temperature  of  55°  to  60°.  If 
they  are  to  continue  flowering  they  must  be  kept  in  the  latter  to  keep 
them  growing  ;  if  they  once  stop  growing  they  will  also  cease  flowering. 
Place  young  plants  that  are  now  rooted  into  3-inch  pots,  and  grow  them 
on  a  shelf  for  a  time  in  an  intermediate  temperature  until  they  are  well 
established,  then  harden  them,  and  place  on  a  shelf  where  the  tempe¬ 
rature  is  about  45°  at  night.  Cuttings  for  early  spring  flowering  may 
still  be  rooted,  but  they  must  be  encouraged  to  grow  until  they  have 
formed  three  or  four  shoots. 
Petunias. — Petunias  established  in  small  pots  before  the  winter  are 
invaluable  for  flowering  early  in  the  season  for  conservatory  decoration. 
Cuttings  rooted  at  once  and  left  in  the  pots  will  yield  plenty  of 
good  cuttings  early  in  the  season  for  succession,  and  are  much  better 
and  easier  managed  than  old  plants. 
Fuchsias. — Those  that  have  flowered  may  be  gradually  dried  and 
placed  in  a  cool  airy  house  to  rest ;  a  shed  will  do  very  well.  Others 
that  have  been  outside  for  some  weeks  since  they  ceased  flowering  may 
be  dried  and  given  the  same  position.  Do  not  store  them  away  in  a  wet 
condition.  Place  those  that  were  rooted  some  time  ago  into  3-inch  pots, 
and  store  them  on  a  shelf  where  they  can  be  kept  slowly  moving  during 
the  winter.  Others  just  rooted  may  be  placed  into  thumbs,  and  when 
established  give  the  same  position  as  for  those  in  3-inch  pots. 
Sbadlng. — All  shading  should  by  now  have  been  removed,  the  blinds 
being  taken  off  the  houses,  dried,  and  stored  for  the  winter.  The  shading 
that  has  been  employed  over  Ferns  and  cool  Orchids  will  not  be  needed 
any  longer.  This  year  we  have  gradually  dispensed  with  the  shading  much 
earlier  than  usual,  and  the  plants  look  better  for  the  admission  of  more 
light.  When  a  good  number  of  blinds  are  employed  these  should  be 
labelled,  stating  to  which  house  they  belong  and  the  side  they  are 
arranged  for.  This  saves  confusion  when  they  are  wanted  again. 
Protection  for  Chrysanthemums. — Where  an  attempt  is  made 
to  have  the  flowers  of  these  plants  during  January  and  February,  it  is 
important  that  they  be  left  outside  as  long  as  possible.  To  insure  their 
safety  they  must  be  protected  from  frost.  Any  rude  lean-to  or  span-roofed 
structure  will  answer  the  purpose  well.  The  pots  may  be  plunged  to 
keep  them  from  being  knocked  in  all  directions  by  heavy  winds.  The 
sides  of  the  structure  can  be  protected  with  mats,  and  the  top  with 
canvas  blinds.  The  latter  can  be  drawn  up  early  on  fine  mornings  and 
the  mats  removed.  During  severe  stormy  weather  they  may  be  kept  on. 
This  light  protection  will  be  ample  to  protect  them  from  injury  until 
near  Christmas,  unless  severe  weather  sets  in  exceptionally  early.  In 
some  seasons  they  can  be  kept  outside  very  late  without  the  slightest 
protection,  but  one  frost  may  upset  the  whole  work  of  the  season,  and 
therefore  it  is  necessary  that  provision  for  their  protection  should  be 
made.  It  should  not  be  used  until  an  occasion  arises.  When  the  whole 
or  nearly  the  whole  of  the  plants  are  placed  inside  at  one  time  the 
majority  are  in  flower  all  at  once,  and  do  not  therefore  prove  so  useful 
as  if  brought  forward  in  numbers  according  to  the  demand.  With  atten¬ 
tion  in  this  respect  there  is  no  difficulty  in  having  a  supply  of  these 
flowers  until  the  middle  or  end  of  February.  Place  some  at  once  where 
they  can  have  tiffany  placed  over  them  at  night  in  case  of  frost ;  it 
will  be  found  that  many  of  the  plants  can  be  kept  outside  fully  a  month 
or  six  weeks  longer.  This  will  make  at  least  two  or  three  weeks’ 
difference  in  the  time  of  flowering. 
