October  31,  1895. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
425 
a  thorough  cleansing  of  the  house  by  the  use  of  soap — the  advertised 
carbolic  and  petroleum  softsoaps  being  excellent — brush,  and  hot  water, 
makes  an  end  of  all  insects  before  they  have  time  to  become  ensconced 
in  the  cracks  and  crevices  of  the  structure.  In  pruning  early  forced 
trees  it  is  not  advisable  to  cut  away  much  wood,  but  where  weakly  and 
crowded  it  should  be  judiciously  thinned,  removing  any  useless  parts 
that  have  escaped  the  thinning  after  the  fruit  was  gathered,  and  any 
iong  unripened  growths  may  be  cut  back  to  a  triple  bud,  making  sure 
that  the  central  bud  is  a  wood  bud  or  to  a  growth  bud  on  well-ripened 
wood.  Shoots,  however,  that  are  well  ripened  need  not  be  shortened 
under  any  circumstances,  having  usually  a  few  wood  buds  at  the  base 
and  one  at  the  extremity,  the  rest  being  blossom  buds  chiefly.  It  is, 
however,  a  mistake  to  retain  too  much  wood,  which  weakens  the  trees  in 
flowering,  and  there  is  not  space  to  train  in  the  young  growths  without 
crowding.  Treat  the  trees  in  other  respects,  as  regards  the  house  and 
borders,  as  advised  for  the  earliest  house. 
Succession  Houses. — The  trees  will  be  casting  their  leaves,  which 
may  be  collected  as  they  fall  and  be  burned  where  the  trees  have  been 
infested  with  fungal  and  insect  pests.  The  leaves,  however,  must  not 
be  forcibly  removed,  but  a  gentle  shaking  or  a  very  light  brushing  over 
with  a  broom  will  bring  down  any  that  are  matured.  When  the  foliage 
is  down  and  there  being  any  scale  syringe  the  trees  and  house  with 
water  at  a  temperature  of  130°  to  140°.  This  will  make  quick  work  of 
all  the  insects  it  reaches,  and  even  cause  their  eggs  to  addle,  for  all 
euccumb  to  sudden  parboiling,  caustic,  and  corrosive  substances  ;  even 
fungi  resting  spores  cannot  resist  such  influences.  Then  cleanse  the 
house  and  trees,  walls  and  borders — everything,  for  cleanliness  is,  after 
all  is  said,  combined  with  suitable  nutrition  and  proper  management, 
the  best  preventive  and  safeguard  agaiust  fungoid  and  insect  diseases. 
If  the  trees  are  too  vigorous  and  do  not  set  and  stone  the  fruits  satis¬ 
factorily  they  should  be  lifted,  which  is  preferably  whilst  the  trees  have 
some  leaves  on  the  least  ripened  wood,  keeping  the  lights  over  the  trees 
until  the  leaves  have  fallen.  If  the  roof  lights  are  not  moveable  admit 
air  to  the  fullest  extent,  and  be  careful  to  prevent  the  soil  becoming 
dry. 
Late  Houses. — In  the  southern  parts  of  the  country,  and  in  cold 
districts  where  the  trees  are  assisted  in  the  spring  and  as  required  during 
growth  in  cold  periods,  the  wood  has  matured  well,  there  being  nothing 
required  but  to  admit  air  freely  ;  but  where  green  leaves  hang  long  it 
is  an  indication  of  unripe  wood,  and  the  roof  lights  must  not  be  | 
removed  for  some  time  longer,  and  if  this  condition  prevails  generally  i 
the  trees  should  be  lifted  carefully  and  root-pruned.  If  this  is  per-  | 
formed  judiciously  it  will  not  prejudice  next  year’s  crop  ;  but  it  must  : 
be  done  when  the  greater  part  of  the  leaves  have  fallen,  yet  with  some 
on  the  laterals  or  other  immature  growths.  The  principal  wood,  how¬ 
ever,  must  be  firm,  otherwise  it  will  shrivel,  and  there  must  not  be  any 
loss  from  excessive  evaporation  ;  but  by  keeping  the  house  rather  close, 
syringing  the  trees  occasionally,  and  shading  the  bouse  if  bright  weather 
prevails,  no  possible  harm  can  follow.  Under  ordinary  circumstances  of 
weather  at  this  time  of  year  those  precautions  are  not  necessary.  It  is  | 
only  when  the  trees  are  gross  and  the  wood  unripe  that  the  careful 
treatment  is  necessary,  and  it  is  for  such  cases  that  lilting  is  particularly 
necessary. 
In  the  case  of  young  trees  it  will  suffice  to  take  out  a  trench  one- 
third  the  distance  from  the  stem  the  trees  cover  of  trellis,  and  down  so 
as  to  cut  all  roots  through  to  the  drainage,  leaving  the  trench  open  for 
a  fortnight,  not  allowing  the  soil  in  the  radius  to  become  so  dry  as  to 
distress  the  foliage  to  a  very  severe  degree  of  flagging,  and  then  the 
trench  may  be  filled  in  firmly.  With  this  salutary  check  to  the  growth 
the  energies  of  the  trees  will  he  concentrated  on  the  maturing  of  the 
growths  and  buds,  also  storing  matter  so  essential  for  securing  a  good 
set  and  satisfactory  stoning  of  the  fruit. 
Unheated  Houses. — Ventilation  in  these  must  be  given  to  the  fullest 
extent,  and  the  wood,  if  necessary,  should  be  thinned,  to  admit  light 
and  air  freely  to  the  growths.  This  assists  the  wood  in  maturing  and 
storing  it  with  matter  for  the  coming  season,  and  where  this  is  not 
sufficient,  over-luxuriance  or  a  tendency  to  late  growth  is  overcome  by 
lifting,  which  must  not  be  done  until  the  wood  becomes  firm,  and  while 
the  foliage  is  upon  the  trees.  Lifting  and  laying  the  roots  near  the 
surface  and  firm  soil  is  the  surest  remedy  for  trees  that  fail  to  set  and 
stone  full  crops  of  fruit.  After  the  leaves  fall  the  roof  lights  may  be 
removed,  thus  securing  complete  rest,  in.stead  of  alternating  excitement 
and  check  as  trees  under  glass  are  subjected  to. 
Melons. — Frame  Melons  are  over,  but  excellent  fruits  of  Scarlet 
Perfection  remain  for  use,  they  being  cut  with  a  portion  of  stem  when 
changing  for  ripening,  and  kept  since  in  a  dry  rather  warm  room  (have 
ripened  and  are  ripening),  so  that  they  are  acceptable  for  dessert,  as 
variety  is  always  desirable.  In  heated  pits  we  still  have  fruit  of  the 
variety  named  and  Longleat  Perfection,  with  Scarlet  Gem  and  Pine¬ 
apple  Gem  for  those  requiring  a  Melon  of  best  quality.  In  houses 
the  supply  will  be  kept  up  until  Martinmas,  if  not  Christmas.  Exquisite 
is  an  excellent  high  quality  late  variety,  and  of  taking  appearance  ;  but 
it  is  liable  to  attack  from  a  fungus  (Gloeosporium),  and  bacteria 
enter  by  its  pustules,  and  the  fruit  rots,  with  an  extremely  nasty  flavour 
and  nauseous  smell. 
This  is  a  common  affection  of  late  Melons,  and  we  find  the  best 
antidote  is  to  place  a  little  sulphur  in  the  evaporation  troughs,  and  keep 
them  charged  with  soft  water.  Some  of  the  sulphur  is  dissolved,  and 
passes  off  with  the  water  in  the  form  of  vapour.  This  chokes  off  the 
fungus,  and  it  there  be  none  of  its  pustules  the  bacterial  germs  are 
powerless  to  pierce  the  rind.  Only  sufficient  water  should  be  given  to 
prevent  flagging,  and  moisture  withheld  from  the  atmosphere  when  the 
fruit  is  ripening.  Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  65°,  70°  to  75°  by 
day,  and  80°  to  90°  from  sun  heat,  with  a  little  ventilation  on  favourable 
occasions,  admitting  a  slight  amount  constantly  to  prevent  deposition  of 
moisture  on  the  foliage.  Plants  swelling  their  fruit  will  require  more 
root  and  air  moisture,  but  avoid  a  very  wet  soil  or  a  saturated  atmo¬ 
sphere,  and  afford  plenty  of  heat,  with  enough  air  to  insure  a  circulation. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Globe  Artichokes. — These  are  not  perfectly  hardy,  and  unless 
protected  a  severe  winter  will  destroy  the  greater  portion  of  the  clumps. 
Cut  out  all  the  old  flower  stems  and  shorten  back  any  old  leaves  there 
may  be,  not,  however,  interfering  with  the  heart  of  the  sucker  growths, 
as  these  will  give  the  earliest  and  probably  the  best  flower  heads  next 
season. 
Cauliflowers. — Young  plants  cannot  be  depended  on  to  stand 
through  the  winter  without  being  afforded  some  protection.  If  sown  late 
in  a  frame  they  may  as  well  be  left  where  they  are,  taking  the  precaution 
to  keep  them  free  of  weeds,  and  to  thin  out  where  crowded.  Give 
abundance  of  air,  only  covering  with  the  frame  lights  whenever  it  is 
frosty,  a  further  covering  with  mats  doing  good  service  when  it  is 
extra  cold.  Any  sown  late  on  a  warm  border  may  alio  be  protected 
with  shallow  frames  or  hand-lights.  It  is  a  good  practice  to  place  a 
number  in  pots  and  to  winter  in  cool  houses,  pits  or  frames.  A  single 
plant  is  enough  for  a  3-inch  pot,  two  plants  going  into  a  5-inch  pot.  In 
each  and  every  case  avoid  undue  coddling. 
Early  Broccoli. — Veitch’s  Autumn  Protecting  and  other  good 
forms  of  early  Broccoli  are  not  hardy  enough  and  too  valuable  to  be  left 
to  take  their  chance.  Only  a  moderately  severe  frost  will  go  through 
the  hearts,  while  a  severe  one  would  destroy  the  crop.  In  order, 
therefore,  to  be  on  the  safe  side,  a  portion  of  the  crop  should  be  lifted. 
A  vinery,  in  which  the  Vine^  are  resting,  and  late  Peach  houses  are 
good  places  in  which  to  store  a  large  number  of  plants.  Trim  off  the 
oldest  leaves,  lift  with  a  little  soil  about  the  roots,  and  replant  moderately 
thickly  and  firmly  in  rich  soil.  Then  if  they  are  kept  well  supplied 
with  water  they  will  root  freely  into  the  soil  and  produce  good  hearts. 
Iicttuce. — Plants  half-grown  will  not  stand  much  frost,  and  if 
lifted  and  replanted  in  frames,  giving  them  some  good  soil  to  root  in, 
serviceable  hearts  may  be  had  for  mixing  with  Endive  during  the  winter. 
Small  plants  of  the  hardiest  forms  of  Cos  and  Cabbage  Lettuce,  notably 
Brown  Cos  and  All  the  Year  Round,  raised  in  the  open,  will  usually 
stand  more  frost  than  when  partially  sheltered  by  walls.  Seeing  that 
there  no  certainty  about  their  hardiness  it  is  advisable  to  fill  some 
shallow  frames,  boxes,  or  hand-lights  with  a  portion  of  the  plants,  pro¬ 
tecting  these  during  the  prevalence  of  severe  frosts. 
Seakale. — The  leaves  come  away  from  the  crowns  freely  after 
severe  autumn  frosts,  and  an  early  clearance  is  desirable  in  the  case  of 
any  to  be  forced  early.  It  answers  well  to  bare  the  crowns  somewhat 
so  as  to  further  expose  them  to  the  frosts,  any  so  treated  forcing  more 
readily  than  do  those  that  have  not  experienced  a  severe  check.  The 
old  or  purple  tipped  Seakale  is  seldom  injured  by  frosts.  If  the  crowns 
of  the  Lily  White  are  left  unprotected  a  severe  frost  is  liable  to  spoil 
the  whole  of  them.  They  ought,  therefore,  to  have  either  a  ridge  of 
light  soil  or  ashes  drawn  over  them  in  preference  to  a  heavy  covering 
of  manure,  or  else  be  lifted,  bedded  in  closely  and  protected  as  often  as 
necessary.  There  is  another  advantage  attending  this  practice  of 
lifting  Seakale  roots  of  either  variety  somewhat  early — they  are  available 
at  all  times,  or  when  it  is  too  frosty  to  lift  any  from  the  open  ground  ; 
surround  them  with  either  moist  sand  or  soil,  but  do  not  coddle  in  a 
shed.  It  is  the  younger  straight  roots  that  are  the  best  for  lifting  and 
storing  preparatory  to  forcing  in  either  deep  boxes,  pots,  frames  or  Mush¬ 
room  houses.  The  coarsest  of  the  side  roots  or  tbongs  should  be  saved 
during  the  process  of  lifting,  and  be  shortened  to  a  length  of  4  inches, 
taking  a  slice  off  the  thicker  end  and  then  tying  in  bundles.  Bury 
them  in  sand  or  fine  soil.  They  will  be  handy  for  propagating  purposes 
next  spring. 
THE  APIARY. 
The  flowering  of  plants  has  been  throughout  the  year  rather 
abnormal  with  us.  Many  flowers  which  we  expected  to  see  in 
June  and  July  did  not  appear  till  August  and  September,  while 
our  herbaceous  borders  were  all  aglow  with  a  second  bloom  of  the 
year,  and  at  the  present  time  many  clumps  of  Croci,  Snowdrops, 
and  other  spring-flowering  bulbs  are  well  above  the  ground.  Up 
till  the  17th  October  many  plants  and  flowers  remained  as  fresh 
as  they  were  at  midsummer,  yet  for  all  the  profusion  of  flowers 
dear  to  bees,  and  the  exceedingly  flne  weather,  I  never  knew  so 
little  pollen  carried  into  the  hives.  I  have  read  much  about  pollen- 
bound  hives,  but  never  experienced  a  case  ;  bees  seem  to  know 
their  future  wants,  and  provide  accordingly. 
It  may  be  argued  by  some  that  hives  may  be  overloaded  with 
honey,  but  in  well  regulated  apiaries  that  seldom  if  ever  occurs. 
The  brood  nest  never  should  be  allowed  to  be  filled  with  honey. 
Youthful,  fertile,  and  prolific  qaeens  are  the  key  to  success  in 
