NoTomber  14,  1895, 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
471 
until  the  beginning  of  January.  With  hard  forcing,  which  is  not 
advised  with  permanently  planted-out  trees,  the  fruit  may  be  had  in  a 
month  or  even  six  weeks  less  time  ;  indeed,  fruit  of  Alexander  Peach 
and  Advance  Nectarine  have  been  produced  in  thirteen  weeks  from  the 
time  of  starting.  Such  express  work  is  best  performed  by  trees  in  pots, 
specially  prepared,  and  even  selected  for  the  purpose.  Some  trees, 
however,  are  much  in  the  condition  of  potted  ones — namely,  the  roots 
are  wholly  within  the  house,  and  confined  to  borders  of  limited  area,  so 
as  to  be  completely  under  control,  and  treatment  is  essentially  that  of  trees 
in  pots,  the  growths  being  pinched,  and  the  fruit  borne  largely  on  spurs 
or  late-formed  growths  or  laterals,  thus  obviating  the  anxiety  about 
the  buds  dropping,  which  is  peculiar  to  some  varieties,  especially  early 
forced. 
Whatever  the  varieties  and  the  time  of  starting,  the  trees  require  a 
similarity  of  condition,  therefore  our  advisements  have  relative 
cogency ;  but  as  we,  rightly  or  wrongly,  have  regard  only  to  certainty  of 
crop  and  maximum  of  quantity,  with  high  colour  and  quality— that  is, 
substantial  results  over  an  extended  period,  instructions  will  be  given 
on  the  old  lines  and  with  exclusive  respect  to  the  standard  forcing 
Peaches  and  Nectarines,  some  of  which  are  comparatively  new,  but  of 
proved  worthiness  for  including  in  the  front  ranks.  The  trees  should  be 
thoroughly  examined  for  brown  aphis,  and  if  there  be  the  least  trace  of 
the  pest  the  affected  parts  should  be  brushed  over  with  tobacco  water 
the  same  way  as  the  growths,  and  the  house  thoroughly  fumigated  or 
vaporised  with  tobacco  smoke  or  nicotine  vapour  on  two  consecutive 
evenings.  If  the  lights  have  been  off,  the  border  will  be  thoroughly 
moistened  through  to  the  drainage,  but  there  must  not  be  any  mistake 
about  this,  for  it  is  imperative  that  the  trees  have  sufficient  water  at  the 
roots  ;  therefore,  if  any  doubt  exists  as  to  the  moisture  of  the  soil,  give 
a  thorough  supply  at  about  the  temperature  of  the  house.  Weakly 
trees  will  be  benefited  by  an  application  of  liquid  manure,  but  avoid 
making  the  soil  sodden  and  sour  by  needless  supplies  of  water  or  liquid. 
Trees  that  have  not  been  forced  early  before  should  have  the  houses 
closed  about  the  middle  of  this  month,  they  having  had  rest  since  the 
end  of  September, 
Fire  heat  need  only  be  employed  at  night  to  exclude  frost,  and  by 
day  to  ensure  a  temperature  of  50°.  Commence  ventilating  at  50°,  and 
close  the  house  at  that  temperature,  ventilating  fully  without  lowering 
the  heat  below  50°  in  the  daytime.  Syringe  the  trees  lightly  in  the 
morning  and  early  afternoon  of  fine  days  until  the  buds  begin  to  show 
colour,  but  then  (and  in  dull  days  prior  thereto)  discontinue  the 
syringing,  yet  maintain  a  suitable  moisture  in  the  atmosphere  by 
damping  the  paths  and  borders  on  bright  mornings  and  fine  afternoons, 
admitting  a  little  air  constantly  at  the  top  of  the  house. 
Aim  at  bringing  the  trees  on  gradually  to  secure  sturdy,  well  developed 
blossoms,  bold  in  petals,  strong  in  the  stamens,  with  anthers  laden  with 
perfect  pollen,  and  the  pistils  stout,  well  advanced  above  the  ovary, 
and  perfect  for  fertilisation.  These,  however,  will  be  perfect  or  imperfect 
as  they  were  formed  in  embryo  in  the  buds  during  the  previous  season, 
but  they  can  be  enfeebled  by  bringing  them  on  too  rapidly,  and  made 
thin  in  the  petals,  weak  in  stamens,  and  slender  in  pistil,  with  ill- 
developed  ovary,  by  not  affording  time  for  their  perfect  development. 
Trees  previously  early  forced  will  start  readily  at  the  accustomed  time, 
they,  if  anything,  being  too  eager  for  work,  and  require  full  exposure  or 
ventilation  to  keep  them  back  to  the  proper  time. 
Housex  Started  at  the  New  Year. — Trees  started  early  in  the  year 
for  affording  fruit  at  the  end  of  May  or  ea^ly  in  June,  the  trees  being 
the  standard  second  early  and  midseason  varieties  of  proved  excellence 
for  early  forcing,  must  now  be  kept  as  cool  as  possible.  This  is  oest 
effected  by  keeping  the  roof  lights  off  the  house  until  the  time  of  starting. 
The  severest  weather  does  not  injure  ripened  and  matured  wood— such 
only  affords  satisfactory  crops  of  fruit — and  the  trees  are  allowed 
complete  rest  so  far  as  it  is  practicable  in  our  climate.  The  lights, 
however,  should  be  replaced  about  a  fortnight  in  advance  of  starting  the 
trees,  and  they  must  be  cleansed,  repaired,  and  painted  as  necessary. 
The  woodwork  of  the  house  must  be  washed  with  soapy  water, 
and  the  walls  limewashed.  Pruning  will  be  a  light  affair  if  proper 
attention  has  been  given  to  disbudding,  retaining  growths  only  essential 
for  extension  and  next  year’s  crops,  and  cutting  out,  after  the  fruit  is 
gathered,  the  useless  wood.  The  trees,  however,  must  be  examined  to 
remove  wood  not  required,  and  that  having  been  overlooked  during 
growth.  Brown  scale  is  sometimes  troublesome,  and  is  impatient  of 
extremes.  Syringing  with  water  at  a  temperature  of  140°  to  160°  frees 
the  branches  of  the  pests,  but  the  water  must  not  be  used  excessively, 
it  sufficing  to  reach  every  part  with  the  hot  water.  Frost  also  has  a 
decisive  effect  on  brown  scale,  and  trees  exposed  in  the  resting  season 
are  seldom  affected  with  it,  but  it  is  often  introduced  from  plant  houses, 
by  persons  in  charge  of  ventilation.  Trees  under  fixed  roofs  may  be 
cleansed  of  scale  and  other  insects  by  dressing  them  with  soluble 
petroleum  and  other  advertised  insecticides,  using  a  stiffish  brush,  and 
taking  care  not  to  dislocate  the  buds. 
Secure  the  trees  to  the  trellis,  allowing  plenty  of  space  in  the  ties 
for  the  swelling  of  the  branches.  Remove  any  loose  inert  soil,  supplying 
fresh  not  more  than  a  couple  of  inches  thick  on  the  roots,  and  on  this 
afford  a  top-dressing  of  4  ozs.  per  square  yard  of  some  approved  fertiliser 
or  of  the  following  mixture — Seven  parts  or  lbs.  of  bonemeal,  and  three 
parts  or  lbs.  of  kainit,  mixed.  Mulching  should  be  deferred  until  the 
trees  are  somewhat  in  growth.  Houses  with  fixed  roofs  should  be  kept 
as  cool  as  possible,  ventilating  to  the  fullest  extent  except  when  severe 
frost  prevails. 
Houses  Started  in  February. — The  trees  started  at  that  time  to  ripen 
the  fruit  late  in  June  or  early  in  July  will  now  require  similar  treatment 
to  that  advised  for  those  in  the  house  to  be  started  at  the  new  year.  The 
roof  lights  are  better  removed,  but  if  is  a  common  practice  to  use  houses 
of  this  kind  for  plants  requiring  protection  from  frost,  especially  Chrys¬ 
anthemums.  It  is  not  good  practice,  for  the  Peach  trees  are  deprived  of 
the  rest  essential  to  success,  being  often  excited  prematurely,  and  that 
followed  by  a  check,  as  is  usually  caused  when  the  Chrysanthemums  are 
over  by  throwing  the  house  open,  inducing  the  buds  to  fall.  It  is  a  still 
worse  system  to  leave  houses  and  trees  unattended  after  the  leaves  fall 
until  the  absolute  necessity  arises  for  starting  the  trees.  The  trees  are 
never  handled  so  safely  as  when  the  wood  contains  least  sap,  which  is  as 
soon  as  the  leaves  have  fallen,  and  the  delay  is  taken  advantage  of  by 
red  spider  and  thrips  to  find  safe  retreats.  The  house,  therefore,  should 
be  thoroughly  cleaned,  the  trees  pruned,  readjusted  to  the  trellis,  and 
every  needful  operation  performed,  so  that  a  start  can  be  confidently 
made  when  the  time  arrives. 
Houses  Started  in  March. — The  trees  in  these  structures  if  closed 
early  in  March,  will  ripen  their  fruit  in  July  if  brought  forward  by 
artificial  heat,  but  where  warmth  is  only  given  when  the  trees  are  in 
blossom,  and  to  insure  the  safety  of  the  young  fruit  from  frost,  the  fruit 
will  not  ripen  until  August  or  September  if  kept  cool.  The  house  may 
be  a  glass-covered  wall  with  sufficient  hot-water  piping  to  exclude  frost ; 
afford  a  genial  warmth  when  the  trees  are  in  blossom,  accelerating  the 
ripening  as  may  be  necessary  in  cold  districts.  The  trees  are  now  leafless 
where  they  have  been  subjected  to  artificial  heat  to  ripen  the  fruit  in 
August,  and  should  undergo  the  operation  advised  for  the  earlier  houses. 
The  roof  lights  should  be  removed,  but  hot-water  pipes  emptied,  leaving 
the  lights  off  until  the  blossoms  show  colour,  unless  it  is  desired  to  start 
the  trees  before.  If  the  lights  are  fixed,  the  ventilators  should  be  thrown 
open  to  the  fullest  extent  except  during  very  severe  weather,  or  even 
then  if  the  hot-water  pipes  are  emptied. 
Latest  Homes. — Late  Peaches  are  quite  as  valuable  as  early  ones, 
considering  that  they  are  had  at  much  less  cost,  for  all  that  is  necessary 
for  late  houses  is  a  gentle  warmth  in  spring  and  autumn,  and  not 
always  heat  at  those  times.  Make  no  attempt  to  remove  the  leaves 
until  they  part  readily  from  the  trees  by  shaking  the  trellis.  Cut  out 
all  the  wood  that  has  borne  fruit,  except  extensions,  and  all  superfluous 
growths.  Do  not  allow  the  soil  to  become  very  dry,  but  if  necessary  give 
water  to  moisten  the  soil  down  to  the  drainage.  Keep  the  house  cool 
by  free  ventilation,  clearing  away  the  leaves  as  they  fall.  Trees  that 
grow  too  luxuriantly  should  be  root-pruned  and  lifted  whilst  the  leaves 
are  partly  on  the  trees,  but  the  wood  being  unripe,  they  must  not  be 
lifted  until  the  leaves  have  for  the  most  part  fallen,  or  the  unripe 
wood  will  shrivel  and  die.  If  the  wood  does  not  ripen  well  turn  on  the 
heat  by  day  with  moderate  ventilation,  and  turn  it  off  early  in 
the  afternoon,  so  as  to  have  the  pipes  cool  before  night,  and  then  open 
the  ventilators,  unless  frost  prevails,  when  ventilate  according  to  circum¬ 
stances,  for  a  sudden  collapse  of  the  foliage  is  detrimental  to  the  tree’s 
health.  When  the  wood  does  not  ripen  up  to  the  points  of  the  shoots  a 
trench  may  be  formed  at  some  distance  from  the  stem,  and  the  roots  be 
cut,  which  will  check  the  tendency  to  growth  and  induce  ripening. 
After  remaining  open  ten  days  or  a  fortnight  the  trenches  may  be  closed, 
making  the  soil  firm,  and  giving  a  good  watering. 
Cucumbers. — Plants  that  have  been  in  bearing  some  time  can  be 
invigorated  by  a  top-dressing  of  turfy  loam,  to  which  has  been  added 
about  a  fifth  of  thoroughly  decayed  manure  or  sweetened  horse  droppings, 
and  about  a  tenth  of  “  nut  ”  charcoal.  A  sprinkling  of  superphosphate 
on  the  surface  will  promote  root  formation  and  sturdy  growth.  Afford 
copious  supplies  of  water,  but  let  the  soil  be  getting  dry  before  any 
is  given,  then  supply  enough  to  moisten  the  bed  through,  using  it  at 
the  same  temperature  as  the  house.  Thin  the  old  exhausted  growths 
and  lay  iu  young,  by  which  means  the  plants  will  continue  bearing  for 
some  time  longer.  The  autumn  fruiters  are  in  full  crop  ;  these  must  not 
be  over-burdened,  therefore  remove  fruit  as  soon  as  it  attains  a  fair  size, 
and  all  deformed  fruit  when  observed.  Examine  the  plants  at  least 
once  a  week  for  the  removal  of  bad  leaves,  stopping  or  cutting  away 
surplus  growths,  keeping  the  foliage  fairly  thin,  yet  an  even  spread  on 
the  trellis. 
Winter  fruiters  should  be  allowed  to  become  well  extended  over  the 
trellis  before  pinching  them  for  the  production  of  fruit,  training  the 
growths  evenly,  and  not  more  closely  than  to  allow  of  the  foliage  being 
exposed  to  light.  Stop  after  that  at  a  few  joints  of  growth  or  one  or 
two  joints  beyond  the  show  of  fruit,  but  if  the  plants  are  weak  allow 
more  extension,  and  crop  lightly  at  first.  Remove  most  male  flowers, 
and  do  not  allow  tendrils,  but  remove  them  as  fast  as  they  appear. 
Keep  the  beds  replenished  with  soil,  adding  fresh  and  warmed  as  often 
as  the  roots  appear  at  the  sides  of  the  ridges  or  hillocks. 
Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  70°,  5°  or  10°  less  in  severe  weather, 
70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially,  advancing  to  80°  and  90°  or  more  with  sun 
heat.  Admit  a  little  air  at  the  top  of  the  house  whenever  the  weather 
is  favourable,  affording  it,  however,  without  lowering  the  temperature. 
Judicious  ventilation,  however,  is  highly  beneficial  in  carrying  off 
accumulated  moisture  and  giving  solidity  to  the  growths,  enabling  the 
plants  to  tide  over  the  trying  ordeal  of  prolonged  severe  weather,  when 
plants  with  thin-textured  leaves  often  succumb.  The  syringe  will  only 
be  necessary  for  damping  paths  anl  walls  in  the  morning  and  afternoon 
in  bright  weather,  which  will  give  rise  to  the  needful  moisture,  especially 
when  the  evaporation  troughs  are  charged  with  weak  liquid  manure  or 
water.  On  bright  afternoons  a  light  bedewing  of  the  plants  overhead 
will  be  beneficial,  but  care  must  be  taken  to  practise  it  early  and  not 
make  the  foliage  tender  by  its  too  frequent  recurrence.  All  water  used 
for  damping,  watering,  or  liquid  manure  applied  to  the  roots  must  be 
of  the  same  temperature  as  the  house  or  bed. 
