November  14, 1895, 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
473 
Cassia  corymbosa  Culture  {Novice). — This  is  a  member  of  the 
natural  order  LeguminosEe,  and  bears  the  name  given  above.  It 
succeeds  well  in  a  greenhouse  or  other  cool  house,  and  also  does  well 
out  of  doors  in  the  summer  ;  but  it  is  not  hardy,  and  it  would  not  be 
safe  in  a  border  during  the  winter  unless  the  situation  is  very  warm 
and  sheltered.  A  compost  of  turfy  loam,  a  little  well-decayed  manure, 
leaf  soil,  and  sand  meet  its  requirements ;  but  it  will  grow  fairly  well 
in  almost  any  ordinary  garden  soil.  Your  plant  is  in  excellent  health, 
the  foliage  being  remarkably  vigorous.  The  best  plan  would  be  to 
transfer  it  to  a  conservatory,  where  it  could  be  trained  to  a  wall,  pillar, 
or  roof. 
Roses  for  Arches  {G,  R.  P.). — The  free-growing  Ayrshire  Roses, 
such  as  Alice  Grey,  Bennett’s  Seedling,  and  Splendens.  are  suitable 
for  covering  arches  and  arbours,  as  also  are  the  Boursault  Roses  Amadis, 
elegans,  and  inermis.  You  may  add  also  the  evergreen  Rose  F^licit^ 
perp^tuA  These  are  all  free,  indeed  more  or  less  rampant  growers,  and 
are  very  effective  when  covered  with  their  great  clusters  of  flowers.  If 
you  desire  Roses  less  floriferous,  but  to  produce  better  blooms  over  a 
longer  period,  plant  such  varieties  as  Gloire  de  Dijon,  Belle  Lyonnaise, 
Reine  Marie  Henriette,  Cheshunt  Hybrid,  with  the  climbing  forms  of 
Victor  Verdier,  Jules  Margottin,  Bessie  Johnson,  and  Charles  Lefebvre, 
also  the  vigorous-growing  Madame  Clemence  Joigneaux.  You  do  not 
say  how  many  you  require,  but  probably  we  have  named  sufficient. 
Coping  for  Carden  Wall  {G.  R.). — No  material  answers  so  well 
for  coping  as  stone,  it  being  of  a  composition  not  liable  to  be  injuriously 
affected  by  frost,  nor  perish  by  exposure  to  the  weather.  Yorkshire  stone 
and  some  others  are  of  that  description.  You  could  not  have  anything 
better.  Cement  copings  are  excellent,  but  some  which  are  so  called  are 
worse  than  useless,  because  they  are  composed  of  too  much  sand  (much 
of  it  loamy)  and  too  little  cement.  Properly  constructed  they  are  as 
durable  as  stone.  Tile  copings  are  very  serviceable,  and  cheaper  than 
stone  or  cement,  but  they  should  be  inches  thick,  and  made  in  one 
piece,  so  as  to  project  over  the  wall  3  inches  or  more,  and  have  a  groove 
in  them  three-quarter  inch  from  the  edge  to  prevent  the  wet  running 
down  the  wall,  and  be  sufficiently  burnt  to  resist  weather  influences.  The 
groove  is  of  very  great  importance. 
Potting  Ullums  {Amateur). — A  compost  of  two-thirds  of  turfy 
loam  and  one-third  of  turfy  peat  with  sufficient  sand  and  crushed 
charcoal  to  keep  the  soil  porous  will  be  suitable.  The  bulbs  may  be 
potted  now,  surrounding  them  with  sand,  and  covering  them  an  inch  or 
more  deep.  If  you  place  them  at  once  in  the  pots  in  which  they  are 
intended  to  flower  the  pots  should  not  be  quite  filled  with  soil,  but 
space  should  be  allowed  for  top-dressings.  If  the  pots  can  be  buried  in 
moist  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  or  ashes  there  will  be  less  danger  of  the 
bulbs  being  injured  by  mistakes  in  watering.  A  cold  frame  or  the  floor 
of  a  greenhouse  will  be  suitable  for  accommodating  the  pots  until  the 
plants  commence  growing,  when  they  must  have  a  light  position  and 
abundance  of  air.  They  thrive  well  plunged  in  ashes  in  the  open  air  in 
summer — better  indeed  than  in  a  greenhouse,  unless  the  structure  is 
very  light. 
Osier  Peelings  as  Manure  {Provinciat). — The  bark  of  the 
Willow  is  rich  in  potash  and  soda,  and  reduced  to  vegetable  mould  is  a 
good  manure.  The  peelings  should  be  thrown  into  a  heap,  and  to  every 
cartload  of  them  add  a  bushel  of  salt  and  a  similar  quantity  of  quick¬ 
lime.  By  keeping  them  damp  but  not  wet,  and  turning  at  intervals, 
outside  to  inside,  the  decay  of  the  material  would  be  accelerated.  If 
the  peelings  get  dry  damp  them  with  urine,  which  will  increase  the 
manurial  value  of  the  heap.  If  burned  there  would  at  once  be  available 
mineral  substances  of  great  value  to  fruit  trees,  and  your  soil  being  low 
and  damp,  or  containing  vegetable  matter  or  humus,  it  would  be  a 
better  dressing  for  fruit  trees  than  vegetable  soil.  The  organic  matter, 
however,  is  lost  in  the  burning,  which  it  is  desirable  to  retain,  par¬ 
ticularly  when  the  application  of  the  debris  is  to  be  made  on  light  soils 
or  those  deficient  in  humus; 
Anomatbeca  cruenta  {E.  F.  T.).  —  Although  this  pretty  little 
bulbous  perennial  is  quite  hardy  in  the  South  of  England  when  planted 
in  warm  sunny  situations  in  the  open  border,  it  is  only  in  the  extremely 
favoured  parts  of  that  district  that  the  plant  is  satisfactory.  In  Kent 
we  should  consider  the  bulbs  would  be  best  treated  by  lifting  them  in 
the  autumn,  and  storing  in  frost-proof  quarters  until  the  following 
March,  when  they  may  be  planted  in  their  flowering  positions.  In  that 
way  it  does  well  in  some  localities  farther  north.  The  hand-light  would 
not  be  of  much  use,  as  it  is  absolute  freedom  from  frost  that  this  plant 
requires.  The  Alstromeria  aurantiaca  is  really  killed  with  drought  and 
heat  on  the  south  border.  We  have  had  it  quite  a  weed  on  strong 
loam  in  the  West  Riding  of  Yorkshire,  seedlings  springing  up  abun¬ 
dantly  from  self-sown  seeds.  In  the  Midlands  we  quite  failed  with  it 
simply  because  it  was  planted  about  2  feet  from  a  south  wall,  and  the 
soil  was  a  gravelly  loam.  Make 'the  soil  firmer  for  the  Sternbergia 
lutea,  then  it  will  probably  flower. 
Grubs  Infesting  Cyclamen  {E.  Critcliley) — The  larvm  are  those 
of  the  grooved  or  black  Vine  weevil  (Otiorhynchus  sulcatus).  The  cause 
of  the  attack  is  that  of  the  Cyclamen  roots  and  corms  affording  'food ; 
the  female  weevil,  instinctively  knowing  that,  selects  the  soil  in  which 
Cyclamens  are  growing  for  the  deposition  of  her  eggs.  We  do  not  know 
of  any  other  cause,  and  you  can  verify  it  by  destroying  the  parents, 
when  there  will  not  be  any  attack.  The  grubs  are  not  easy  to  kill  in 
the  soil  except  by  poisons  which  we  do  not  care  to  mention  in  connec¬ 
tion  with  plant  culture,  as  there  is  great  danger  of  accidents  and  even 
of  misuse  by  evil  disposed  persons.  If  you  can  procure  some  ammoniacal 
liquor  from  gasworks,  dilute  it  with  Six  times  the  quantity  of  water,  and 
supply  it  to  the  pots  after  plugging  the  holes  with  clay  till  it  appears 
on  the  surface,  leaving  the  plants  for  two  or  three  minutes  to  make  sure 
that  the  gas-liquor  water  acts  on  the  grubs  or  moistens  the  soil  where 
they  usually  are  at  the  base  of  the  corms,  and  then  removing  the  plugs, 
letting  the  water  run  off  freely,  the  grubs  will  be  destroyed.  Or  water 
with  nitrate  of  soda,  2  ounces  to  a  gallon  of  water  ;  but  it  is  necessary 
to  get  it  at  the  grubs  in  the  manner  described,  and  after  a  few  hours 
water  with  clear  water  to  get  rid  of  the  excessive  amount  of  nitrate. 
irames  of  Fruits. — Notice. — We  have  pleasure  in  naming  good 
typical  fruits  (when  the  names  are  discoverable)  for  the  convenience  of 
regular  subscribers,  who  are  the  growers  of  such  fruit,  and  not  col¬ 
lectors  of  specimens  from  non-subscribers.  This  latter  procedure  is 
wholly  irregular,  and  we  trust  that  none  of  our  readers  will  allow 
themselves  to  be  made  the  mediums  in  infringing  our  rules.  Special 
attention  is  directed  to  the  following  decision,  the  object  of  which  is 
to  discourage  the  growth  of  inferior  and  promote  the  culture  of  superior 
varieties.  In  consequence  of  the  large  numier  of  worthless  Apples  and, 
Pears  sent  to  this  office  to  he  named,  it  has  been  decided  to  name  only 
specimens  and  varieties  of  approved  merit,  and  to  reject  the  inferior, 
which  are  not  worth  sending  or  growing.  The  names  and  addresses  of 
senders  of  fruit  or  fiowers  to  be  named  must  in  all  cases  be  enclosed  with 
the  specimens,  whether  letters  referring  to  the  fruit  are  sent  by  post  or 
not.  The  names  are  not  necessarily  required  for  publication,  initials 
sufficing  for  that.  Only  six  specimens  can  be  named  at  once,  and  any 
beyond  that  number  cannot  be  preserved.  They  shoield  he  sent  on  the 
first  indication  of  change  totoards  ripening .  Dessert  Pears  cannot  he 
named  in  a  hard  green  state.  {G.  R.f — 1,  Rotten  ;  2,  Beurr6  Clairgeau. 
{E.  D’O.). — Probably  a  local  seedling  of  the  Bess  Pool  type.  We  have 
other  fruits  in  from  correspondents,  but  space  precludes  our  naming 
them  in  this  issue. 
irames  of  Plants. — We  only  undertake  to  name  species  of  plants, 
not  varieties  that  have  originated  from  seeds  and  termed  florists’  flowers. 
Flowering  specimens  are  necessary  of  flowering  plants,  and  Fern  fronds 
should  bear  spores.  Specimens  should  arrive  in  a  fresh  state  in  firm 
boxes.  Slightly  damp  moss,  soft  green  grass,  or  leaves  form  the  best 
packing,  dry  wool  the  worst.  Not  more  than  six  specimens  can  be  named 
at  once,  and  the  numbers  should  be  visible  without  untying  the  ligatures, 
it  being  often  difficult  to  separate  them  when  the  paper  is  damp. 
{Junior). — Lselia  anceps.  {W.  G.). — Maxillaria  picta.  In  future 
communications  kindly  favour  with  your  name  and  address,  in  accordance 
with  the  rules  printed  above. 
COVENT  GARDEN  MARKET.— November  13th. 
FRUIT. 
Trade  keeps  quiet ;  supplies  lighter. 
f. 
d. 
S« 
d. 
8. 
d 
a. 
d. 
Apples,  per  bushel  . .  . . 
2 
0 
to  3 
6 
Lemons,  case  ,, 
35 
0  to  45 
0 
„  Nova  Scotia,  per 
Pears,  Californian,  per  case 
13 
0 
14 
0 
barrel . 
13 
0 
17 
0 
Plums,  per  half  sieve 
•  • 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Cobs,  per  100  lbs . 
35 
0 
37 
6 
St.  Michael  Pines,  each 
•  • 
2 
0 
6 
0 
Grapes,  per  lb . 
0 
6 
1 
6 
• 
VEGETABLES. 
B. 
d. 
i. 
d. 
8« 
d. 
a 
d. 
Beans,  per  lb . 
0 
4 
to  0 
6 
Mustard  and  Cress,  punnet 
0 
2  to  0 
0 
Beet,  Red,  dozen . 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Onions,  bushel  ..  .. 
3 
6 
4 
0 
Carrots,  bunch . 
0 
3 
0 
4 
Parsley,  dozen  bunches 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Cauliflowers,  dozen  . .  . . 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Parsnips,  dozen  . .  . . 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Celery,  bimdle  . 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Potatoes,  per  owt.  .. 
•  • 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Ooleworts,  dozen  bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Salsafy,  bundle  . .  . . 
1 
0 
1 
6 
Cucumbers,  dozen  ..  .. 
1 
6 
3 
0 
Seakale,  per  basket  . . 
•  • 
2 
0 
0 
0 
Endive,  dozen  . 
1 
3 
1 
6 
Scorzonera,  bundle  .. 
•  • 
1 
6 
0 
0 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Shallots,  per  lb.  ..  .. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
0 
a 
0 
0 
Spinach,  bushel  ..  .. 
1 
0 
1 
6 
1 
3 
0 
0 
Sprouts, half  siv..  .. 
2 
6 
0 
0 
Mushrooms,  punnet  ..  .. 
1 
0 
1 
6 
Tomatoes. per  lb.  .. 
•  • 
0 
3 
0 
6 
Turnips,  bunch  ..  .. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
AVERAGE  WHOLESALE  PRICES.— OUT  FLOWERS.— Orchid  Blooms  in  vaiiety. 
8. 
d. 
B. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
Acacia  or  Mimosa  (French) 
Orchids,  various,  dozen 
per  bunch . . 
1 
0  to  2 
0 
blooms  . 
1 
6  to  12 
0 
Arum  Lilies,  12  blooms  .. 
4 
0 
6 
0 
Pelargoniums,  12  bunches 
4 
0 
9 
0 
Asparagus  Fern,  per  bunch 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Primula(double),  doz.  spys. 
0 
6 
1 
0 
Bouvardias,  bunch  ..  .. 
0 
6 
1 
0 
Roses  (indoor),  dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Carnacions,  12  blooms  . . 
1 
0 
3 
0 
„  Tea,  white,  dozen 
1 
6 
2 
6 
Chrysanthemum,  doz.  blms. 
1 
0 
4 
0 
„  Yellow,  dozen  (Niels) 
3 
u 
6 
0 
„  doz.  Dunches 
3 
0 
6 
0 
„  Safrano  (English), 
Eucharis,  dozen  ..  ..  .. 
4 
0 
6 
0 
dozen . 
1 
6 
S 
0 
Gardenias,  dozen  ..  .. 
2 
0 
4 
0 
„  Red,  dozen  blooms  . . 
1 
0 
1 
6 
Geranium,  scarlet,  doz. 
Smilax,  per  bunch  ..  .. 
2 
6 
4 
0 
bunches . 
4 
0 
6 
0 
Stephanotis,  dozen  sprays 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Lilac  (French)  per  bunch 
4 
0 
5 
0 
Tuberoses.  12  blooms..  .. 
0 
4 
0 
6 
Lilium  lancifolium,  twelve 
Violets  Parme  (French), 
blooms . 
2 
0 
4 
0 
per  bunch  . .  . . 
3 
6 
4 
6 
„  longiflorum,  12  blooms 
4 
0 
6 
0 
„  Czar  (French),  per 
Lily  of  the  Valley,  dozen 
bunch  . .  . . 
2 
0 
3 
0 
sprays . 
1 
0 
2 
0 
„  Victoria  (French), 
Maidenhair  Fern.  doz.  bchs. 
4 
U 
8 
0 
12  bunches 
1 
6 
2 
6 
Marguerites,  12  bunches  . . 
2 
c 
4 
0 
„  English,  12  bunches 
1 
6 
6 
PLANTS 
IN  POTS. 
a. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
Arbor  Vitae  (golden)  dozen 
6 
0  to  12 
0 
Perns  iu  variety,  dozen  .. 
4 
Oto  18 
0 
Aspidistra,  dozen  . .  . . 
18 
0 
36 
0 
Ferns  '’small)  per  hundred 
4 
0 
6 
0 
Aspidistra,  specimen  plant 
5 
0 
10 
6 
Ficus  elastica,  each  ..  .. 
1 
0 
7 
0 
Chrysanthemums,  per  doz 
6 
0 
18 
0 
Foliage  plants,  var.  each 
2 
0 
10 
0 
Dracsena,  various,  dozen  .. 
12 
0 
30 
0 
Lycopodiums,  dozen  . .  . . 
3 
0 
4 
0 
Dracaena  viridis,  dozen  . . 
9 
0 
18 
0 
Marguerite  Daisy,  dozen  .. 
6 
0 
9 
0 
Ericas,  various,  per  dozen  . 
9 
0 
24 
0 
Myrtles,  dozen . 
6 
0 
9 
0 
Euonymus,  var.,  dozen  . . 
6 
0 
18 
0 
Palms,  iu  var.,  each  ..  .. 
1 
0 
15 
0 
Evergreens,  in  var.,  dozen 
6 
0 
24 
0 
„  (specimens)  .. 
21 
0 
33 
0 
