November  21, 1895. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
495 
flaky  manure,  which  will  serve  as  a  protection  to  the  plants  from  frost 
and  prevent  rapid  evaporation  of  moisture. 
Prunlng^  and  Mulcblng-  Raspberries.  —  Where  the  fruiting 
canes  for  the  forthcoming  year  have  previously  been  reduced  to  the 
proper  number — four  to  six,  according  to  vigour  —  there  only  remains 
the  shortening  of  them  to  a  uniform  height  of  4  to  5  feet,  thus  retaining 
only  the  ripest  portions.  Some  adopt  the  plan  of  pruning  to  different 
heights,  whereby  fruit  is  secured  at  various  levels.  When  the  canes  are 
trained  to  trellises  dispose  them  over  the  space  first,  then  prune  to  the 
top  of  the  trellis.  Cut  out  all  weakly  canes  if  such  have  been  left,  and 
the  old  fruiting  canes  of  the  past  season  if  not  hitherto  removed. 
The  pruning  being  completed  and  the  cleansing  of  the  ground  from 
strong  weeds  of  a  deep  rooting  character,  as  well  as  those  of  underground 
stem  extension,  spread  over  the  ground  a  liberal  mulching  of  rich 
manure  and  allow  it  to  lie  undisturbed.  Neither  digging  nor  forking 
is  admissible  between  Raspberries  unless  the  rows  or  stools  are  wide 
apart,  then  only  in  the  spaces  at  the  greatest  distance  from  the  crowns, 
the  soil  immediately  around  always  being  occupied  with  abundance  of 
fibrous  roots  which  cannot  be  disturbed  without  injury. 
Pruning:  and  Walling:  Wall  Trees.  —  Attention  may  now  be 
given  to  pruning,  training  and  nailing  wall  trees,  commencing  with 
Cherries  and  Plums.  The  Kentish  or  Morello  Cherry  requires  a  con¬ 
siderable  amount  of  nailing  or  tying  in,  the  fruit  being  borne  best  on 
young  wood  of  the  previous  year’s  formation.  Therefore  plenty  of  such 
should  be  reserved  during  the  summer,  and  the  old  bearing  shoots,  as 
the  fruit  is  cleared  from  them,  gradually  cut  out.  Frequently,  however, 
there  is  neglect  in  cutting  out  the  old  shoots  before  the  leaves  fall,  but 
it  ought  to  be  done  as  it  enables  the  reserved  shoots  to  ripen.  Annual 
pruning  serves  also  to  maintain  the  trees  in  a  compact  form  by  inducing 
wood  to  be  originated  closer  to  the  main  branches. 
It  is  the  best  plan  to  completely  unnail  or  untie  the  trees,  and  after 
pruning  out  all  superfluous  and  weakly  shoots,  cleanse  the  trees  with  an 
insecticide,  also  wash  the  walls.  Repair  any  large  holes  or  crevices  in 
the  latter  by  filling  up  with  good  mortar  or  cement.  Refuges  and 
harbours  for  insects  are  thus  most  effectually  done  away  with.  Then 
refasten  the  trees,  disposing  the  main  branches  over  the  walls  so  as  to 
leave  ample  space  for  the  bearing  shoots  which  may  be  trained  in  3  to 
6  inches  apart. 
Dessert  Cherries  and  Plums. — These  fruits  aie  grown  most  frequently 
on  trees  having  permanent  branches  trained  in  a  given  form  and 
furnished  with  spurs.  Upon  the  whole,  fan-trained  trees  are  the  best, 
owing  to  the  convenience  with  which  worn  out  branches  can  be  replaced 
by  young  wood  from  suitable  parts.  In  addition  to  the  spurs  young 
growths  may,  when  space  permits,  be  laid  in,  such  wood  commencing  to 
bear  the  third  if  not  the  second  year.  A  succession  of  much  useful 
fruiting  wood  can  in  this  way  supplement  the  spurs,  endeavouring  to 
prevent  either  crowding  the  other. 
In  pruning,  shorten  the  extensions  from  the  spurs  to  within  an  inch 
of  the  base,  or  to  the  third  or  fourth  bud,  choosing  a  wood  bud  in  order 
that  there  may  be  some  wood  extension  as  well  as  fruit  bud  development. 
It  is  important  that  the  spurs  be  sufficiently  far  apart  to  avoid  crowding, 
the  admission  of  light  and  air  regulating  the  capability  of  fruit-bearing 
to  a  large  extent.  The  same  applies  to  elongated  spurs  which  have 
extended  too  far  from  the  wall  or  main  branches.  These  should  be 
gradually  reduced.  Young  trees  in  the  course  of  forming  spurs  can,  by 
judicious  attention  from  an  early  period  in  their  existence,  be  kept  more 
at  home. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — Early  Forced  Vines  in  Pots, — Stout,  well  ripened  canes, 
with  plump  buds,  and  given  a  short  rest,  only  answer  for  early  forcing. 
The  Vines  require  a  light,  airy,  efficiently  heated  structure,  which  may 
be  a  lean-to  or  span-roof,  with  the  ends  east  and  west.  A  lean-to  of 
6  to  7  feet  6  inches  width  will  accommodate  one  row  of  plants  in  front  ; 
a  span-roof  of  10  feet  width  may  have  Vines  on  both  sides.  If  hot- 
water  pipes  are  at  the  front  of  the  lean-to  and  at  the  sides  of  the  span- 
roof  the  Vines  may  be  stood  over  them,  on  tiles  or  slates.  The  tiles  or 
slates  become  heated  and  transmit  the  warmth  to  the  pots,  which  are  kept 
more  or  less  warm  at  their  base,  and  the  roots  are  not  prejudiced  by  the 
heat.  The  tiles  or  slates  throw  off  much  of  the  water  or  liquid  manure 
supplied  to  and  escaping  from  the  pots,  so  that  there  is  no  risk  of  a 
surfeit  of  steam,  and  the  water  running  on  the  floor  keeps  up  a  genial 
moisture  as  well  as  supplying  ammonia  to  the  atmosphere  when  liquid 
manure  is  used. 
Span-roofed  pits  or  lean-to  structures  facing  south  and  having  sunk 
paths  in  the  centre  or  at  the  back  of  lean-to  and  three-quarters  span, 
and  beds  in  which  fermenting  materials  may  be  placed,  answer  admirably, 
contingent  on  their  having  the  necessary  hot-water  pipes  to  afford  top 
heat  for  forcing  Vines  in  pots.  Pedestals  of  loose  brickwork  should  be 
formed  in  the  beds  so  as  to  raise  the  pots  to  the  requisite  height  and 
prevent  sinking,  as  would  be  the  case  were  the  pots  stood  on  the  fer¬ 
menting  material.  This  is  essential,  whether  the  Vines  are  trained  to 
trellises  12  to  18  inches  from  the  glass  or  coiled  round  stakes  where  there 
is  no  trellis,  or  the  Vines  are  required  for  decorative  purposes  when  the 
Grapes  are  ripe.  Vines  in  pots  and  restricted  thereto  afford  excellent 
fruit  with  judicious  feeding,  but  if  weight  and  quality  of  Grapes  are 
desired  the  apertures  in  the  pots  should  be  enlarged  and  some  turfy 
loam  placed  within  reach  of  the  roots.  The  loam  may  be  placed  against 
or  on  the  pedestals  of  loose  bricks,  and  the  roots  will  follow  the  liquid 
manure  given,  and  the  turf  hold  its  manurial  elements,  so  that  the  roots 
will  send  up  plenty  of  support  for  the  Vines. 
Oak  or  Beech  leaves  are  the  best  to  afford  bottom  heat.  They  produce 
a  genial  warmth  and  regular  moisture  in  the  early  stages,  and  rich 
stimulating  food  when  the  demands  of  the  Vines  are  greatest.  The 
house  must  now  be  ready  and  the  plants  placed  in  position.  The  canes 
should  be  kept  horizontally,  or  have  the  ends  depressed  if  necessary,  to 
insure  their  breaking  evenly  from  the  base  upwards.  Vines  started  now 
will  afford  fruit  fit  for  table  in  April.  For  early  work  none  is  better 
than  Black  Hamburgh  and  Foster’s  Seedling.  White  Frontignan  forces 
well,  but  the  fruit  is  small,  though  the  quality  is  excellent,  and  Madres- 
field  Court  is  one  of  the  best  forcing  varieties  and  first-rate  in  both 
appearance  and  quality. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Vines. — To  have  ripe  fruit  in  May  with 
certainty  the  house  must  now  be  closed.  This  more  particularly 
applies  to  young  and  vigorous  Vines,  that  do  not,  as  a  rule,  start  into 
growth  so  quickly  as  those  that  have  been  forced  for  a  number  of  years. 
This  applies  equally  to  Vines  that  have  not  previously  been  subjected 
to  early  forcing.  To  produce  a  soft  humid  atmosphere  and  to  economise 
fuel  a  good  ridge  of  fermenting  material  may  be  placed  on  the  floor 
or  inside  border  and  be  turned  at  short  intervals,  additions  being  made 
as  the  heat  declines.  Old  Vines  will  not  need  depressing,  but  it  is  a 
good  practice  to  lower  them  until  the  buds  break  before  securing  them 
to  the  trellis.  This  is  not  necessary  when  the  Vines  are  spur-pruned, 
unless  they  are  young,  then  the  canes  or  rods  will  need  to  be  brought 
into  a  horizontal  or  depending  position  over  the  hot-water  pipes  or 
fermenting  material,  where  they  can  be  well  syringed  with  tepid  water 
slightly  in  advance  of  the  temperature  of  the  house.  The  temperature 
of  the  house  may  range  50°  at  night,  55°  by  day,  and  65°  on  bright  days. 
The  outside  border  should  be  protected  from  wet  and  frost  by  a  covering 
of  leaves  and  lights,  or  by  other  approved  means. 
Houses  Cleared  of  Grapes. — Attend  to  the  pruning  directly  the 
Vines  are  leafless  and  the  Grapes  cut.  If  the  Vines  are  vigorous,  have 
made  stout  short-jointed  wood,  thoroughly  ripened  and  the  buds  plump, 
they  may  safely  be  pruned  to  a  couple  of  buds.  If,  however,  the  lowest 
buds  are  small,  and  the  Vines  have  not  from  similar  buds  in  previous 
years  shown  fruit  freely,  or  not  given  bunches  as  large  as 
desired,  the  shoots  may  be  left  a  little  longer,  pruning  in  all  cases  to  a 
plump  bud  on  thoroughly  ripened  wood.  The  pruning  bud  should  be 
round  (not  flat),  as  that  affords  a  close  compact  bunch  of  well  set 
berries  with  stout  footstalks,  and  these  generally  finish  well.  Large 
flat  buds  usually  permits  large  uneven  bunches  of  Grapes,  the  berries 
setting  irregularly,  and  swelling  unevenly,! rarelyicolouring  satisfactorily. 
Pointed  buds,  as  a  rule,  are  not  prolific  in  Grapes,  the  “  shows  ”  having 
a  tendency  to  develop  into  tendrils. 
The  house  should  be  thoroughly  washed,  the  glass  cleaned  inside 
and  outside.  Free  the  Vines  from  loose  bark,  avoiding  close  peeling  and 
scraping,  and  cut  away  all  “snags.”  Wash  the  Vines  with  soapy  water 
3  ozs.  of  softsoap  to  a  gallon  of  water,  using  a  brush,  and  if  there  has 
been  any  mildew  or  other  fungoid  pest,  follow  with  a  solution  of 
sulphate  of  iron,  10  per  cent.  =  1  lb.  to  a  gallon  of  water  for  young  and 
smooth- barked  Vines,  and  15  per  cent.  =  Ig  lb.  to  a  gallon  of  water,  for 
rough  or  untrimmed  Vines,  reaching  well  into  every  angle  and  crevice 
with  care  and  judgment.  Lime  wash  the  walls,  adding  a  good  handful 
of  flowers  of  sulphur  to  each  pailful  of  limewasb,  painting  the  house  and 
trellis  if  necessary. 
Remove  the  mulching  or  loose  soil  down  to  the  roots  and  place  on  a 
couple  of  inches  thickness  of  fresh  loam,  mixed  with  a  tenth  of  unslaked 
lime,  a  quart  of  bonemeal  and  two  quarts  of  wood  ashes  being  added  to 
every  barrowload.  If  the  loam  be  very  light  add  some  clay  marl  dried 
and  reduced  to  powder,  using  about  one-sixth.  When  the  roots  are  deep 
raise  them  nearer  the  surface,  and  lay  them  in  fresh  material,  such  as 
the  following.  Turfy  loam,  cut  2  or  3  inches  thick  and  chopped  up 
moderately  small,  ten  barrowloads,  add  to  it  a  barrowful  of  old  mortar 
rubbish,  two  bushels  of  “  nuts  ”  charcoal,  one  bushel  of  wood  ashes,  and 
half  a  bushel  in  equal  proportion  of  soot  and  bonemeal.  If  the  loam  be 
light  add  three  bushels  of  clay  marl.  Incorporate  all  the  ingredients 
well  together.  The  compost  may  be  used  as  a  surface  dressing,  as  it  is 
good  alike  as  a  rooting  and  feeding  area.  If  the  houses  must  be  used 
for  plants  they  should  be  kept  cool,  admitting  air  freely,  not  exceeding 
40°  to  45°  by  artificial  means.  Admit  air  freely  on  all  favourable 
occasions,  and  where  there  are  no  plants  keep  the  house  open  in  all  but 
very  severe  weather,  as  a  few  degrees  of  frost  will  not  injure  the  Vines. 
THE  HABITS  OF  BEES. 
By  the  introduction  of  the  Italian  Alp  bee  about  1860  bee¬ 
keeping  in  this  country  became  completely  revolutionised.  It  was 
not  difficult  to  see  in  the  “  yellow  jackets,”  when  let  loose,  that 
they  possessed  properties  unknown  in  the  original  British  bee. 
Their  movements  were  much  quicker,  both  out  and  inside  the 
hive,  while  they  gathered  honey  from  many  flowers  that  the  natives 
never  visited,  and  made  weight  in  autumn  from  the  red  Clover, 
which  the  natives  never  did,  although  they  appeared  to  do  so. 
Explainable  from  the  fact  that  the  new-comers  had  longer  tongues 
by  which  they  could  reach  the  nectar  of  deep-tubed  flowers.  We 
soon  encountered  the  difficulty  of  keeping  them  pure,  and  had  to 
be  constantly  importing  fresh  blood . 
