November  i8, 1895. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
519 
plan  to  allow  the  plants  to  bear  to  any  great  extent  for  some  time, 
unless  there  is  a  pressing  demand  for  fruit,  and  then  the  cropping  will 
tell  disastrously  on  the  supplies  later.  Winter  Cucumber  plants  cannot 
be  too  sturdy  in  growth  and  too  thick  and  leathery  in  the  leaves,  but 
they  may  be  too  luxuriant,  and  in  that  condition  highly  susceptible  of 
atmospheric  changes.  Attend  to  stopping  and  tying  frequently,  thinning 
to  avoid  overcrowding,  allowing  space  for  the  unshaded  development  of 
the  foliage.  If  canker  appear  subdue  it  by  rubbing  quicklime  into  the 
affected  part,  removing  every  bad  leaf  and  decayed  growth  promptly, 
rubbing  a  little  lime  on  the  wounds.  If  mildew  appear,  dust  with 
flowers  of  sulphur,  it  being  well  to  dust  some  over  the  plants  with  a  view 
to  its  prevention. 
When  white  fly  is  first  seen  a  little  sulphur,  formed  into  a  cream 
with  skim  milk,  should  be  brushed  on  the  hot-water  pipes  ;  this  is 
equally  eflScacious  against  mildew  and  “spot”  fungus  (Glseosporium), 
which  sometimes  causes  brown  spots  on  the  fruits,  and  then  they  grow 
crooked  and  have  hard  flesh  in  places.  Sulphur  fumes  are  also 
disagreeable  to  red  spider,  and  in  nowise  iuimicable  to  Cucumbers 
unless  the  pipes  are  too  highly  heated  and  the  fumes  given  off  for  a 
prolonged  period  at  a  high  temperature.  Aphides  should  be  destroyed 
by  vaporisation  with  nicotine  or  fumigation  with  tobacco,  being  c.areful 
not  to  give  too  much  vapour  or  smoke.  It  is  best  to  fumigate  on  two  or 
three  consecutive  evenings  moderately,  or  preferably  follow  the  evening 
with  early  morning  fumigation,  choosing  calm  weather. 
Strawberries  In  Pots. — All  plants  for  early  forcing  should  be  in 
frames.  They  cannot  have  too  much  air,  therefore  lilt  the  lights  in  mild 
wet  weather,  and  remove  them  altogether  when  it  is  fair  and  warm, 
keeping  close  only  when  frost  prevails.  Do  not  place  them  in  Peach  or 
other  houses  where  they  will  be  subjected  to  drying  currents  of  air. 
Evaporation  in  such  is  constant  and  excessive,  wastes  the  energies  of  the 
p  ants,  and  not  infrequently  so  dries  the  soil  at  the  sides  of  tne  pots  as 
to  destroy  the  active  feeders.  Drought  is  the  greatest  bane  of  the 
Strawberries  ;  those  in  frames  must  have  water  as  required,  always 
keeping  the  soil  moderately  moist.  Plants  for  midseason  and  late 
forcing  are  just  as  well  stood  on  ashes,  and  plunged  over  the  rims  in 
that  material  or  cocoa  refuse,  the  situation  being  sheltered,  but  not 
shaded. 
Plants  of  Wonder  (if  in  stock),  La  Grosse  Sucr^e,  Royal  Sovereign, 
and  Vicomtesse  Hericart  de  Thury  must  be  held  in  readiness  for  starting 
next  month  where  early  fruit  is  required.  There  is  no  question  that  a 
Strawberry  house  is  the  most  suitable,  especially  when  fitted  with  stage 
shelves,  so  that  the  plants  will  be  about  1  foot  from  the  glass — that  is, 
the  top  of  pots,  as  the  wants  of  the  plants  can  be  furnished  according 
to  their  advantageous  requirements,  which  is  not  always  the  case  when 
the  plants  have  to  be  forced  in  vineries  or  Peach  houses,  but  they  are 
grown  successfully  in  such  structures,  and  the  fruits  are  always* 
appreciated,  the  chief  point  being  not  to  bring  them  on  too  rapidly. 
An  early  Peach  house  takes  a  good  number,  and  is  particularly  suited  to 
such  varieties  as  Noble  and  Auguste  Nicahe,  as  they  do  not  bear  as 
much  heat  in  the  early  stages  of  forcing  as  those  named  above. 
In  the  case  of  plants  having  well  developed  crowns  and  abundant 
roots  there  is  nothing  to  fear  as  regards  a  satisfactory  issue,  but  plants 
not  in  that  condition  should  be  started  later,  or  be  brought  on  very 
gradually.  That,  however,  is  not  applicable  to  places  where  ripe  fruit 
must  be  had  by  a  given  time.  Where  the  plants  are  in  a  backward 
condition,  their  starting  satisfactorily  may  be  enhanced  by  making  up 
a  bed  of  leaves  about  2  feet  in  height,  placing  the  plants  in  a  frame 
upon  it,  bringing  up  the  plants  so  as  to  be  just  clear  of  the  glass,  packing 
the  spaces  between  the  pots  with  damp  leaves.  The  bottom  heat  at  the 
base  of  the  pots  must  not  exceed  65°  to  70°,  the  top  being  kept  cool,  air 
being  freely  admitted,  50°  ot  top  heat  not  being  exceeded,  and  when 
mild  withdraw  the  lights. 
Activity  at  the  roots  of  the  plants  by  means  of  the  warmth  is  pro¬ 
moted,  and  the  crowns  will  plump,  the  trusses  being  advanced  con¬ 
siderably  in  embryo.  After  three  weeks  or  a  month  of  this  treatment 
the  pots  must  be  withdrawn,  raising  them  gradually  so  as  to  insure  the 
plants  bearing  the  temperature  of  the  Strawberry  house  or  other  structure 
without  check.  If  taken  direct  from  the  bed  the  roots  at  the  sides  of  the 
pots  would  in  all  probability  get  chilled,  therefore  they  must  not  be  taken 
from  ihe  warm  bed  to  the  shelves.  Very  careful  treatment  is  required 
to  secure  a  satisfactory  return  with  very  early  forced  plants. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Sowlngr  Broad  Beans. — Of  late  years  those  who  must  have  Broad 
Beans  extra  early  in  the  summer  sow  seed  under  glass  and  plant  at 
much  the  same  time  as  the  earliest  Peas  are  also  put  out.  On  light  soils, 
or  where  slugs  are  not  very  troublesome,  the  old-fashioned  plan  of 
sowing  in  the  autumn  is  still  the  best  as  being  the  least  trouble.  A 
sheltered  border  should  be  manured,  deeply  dug,  made  moderately  firm, 
and  the  seed  be  dibbled  in  freely,  to  allow  for  losses,  in  rows  2  feet  apart. 
Bury  the  seed  to  a  depth  of  2  inches.  It  will  be  found  that  this  season’s 
seed  will  germinate  the  most  surely  and  strongly,  and  slugs  must  be 
either  trapped  by  means  of  slates,  boards,  or  heaps  of  Broccoli  leaves 
laid  betw'een  the  rows,  or  else  by  frequent  dustings  over  of  the  plants 
with  soot  and  lime.  For  this  sowing  Early  Longpod,  Mazagan,  and 
Beck’s  Dwarf  Green  Gem  are  the  best  varieties. 
Sowing  Peas. — Much  that  has  been  advanced  concerning  sowing 
Beans  also  applies  to  early  Peas.  A  warm  sloping  border  is  desirable, 
and  the  early  round-seeded  varieties  should  be  sown — such,  for  instance, 
as  Earliest  of  All,  Sangster’s  No.  1,  Ringleader,  and  William  I.  Draw 
wide  drills  3  feet  apart  and  2  inches  deep,  and  sow  sound  seed  freely. 
If  mice  are  troublesome  first  damp  and  then  roll  the  seeds  in  red  lead,  a 
coating  of  this  usually  being  equal  to  warding  off  mice.  Cover  with 
fine  soil,  and  when  the  plants  are  well  through  the  ground  mould  up 
heavily  on  the  east  side. 
Early  Carrots. — Forcing  is  not  often  commenced  till  January  or 
February,  but  where  frames  or  pits  are  plentiful  and  abundance  of 
young  Carrots  are  required  nearly  or  quite  all  the  year  round  sow 
seed  now  of  an  early  form  of  Shorthorn.  A  mild  hotbed  should  he 
formed,  and  enough  of  the  shortest  of  the  heating  material  be  placed 
inside  of  the  frame  or  pit  to  bring  the  soil  well  up  to  the  lights.  About 
6  inches  of  fine  sandy  soil,  such  as  may  be  obtained  by  sifting  over  a 
heap  of  old  potting  material,  is  needed,  and  the  seed  may  either  be 
broad-casted  or  sown  in  shallow  drills.  If  the  soil  is  dry  at  the  time 
give  a  watering  prior  to  sowing,  and  cover  the  seed  with  fine  soil.  The 
lights  may  be  kept  on  closely  and  covered  with  mats  or  litter  till  the 
seed  has  germinated,  after  which  admit  as  much  light  as  possible,  and 
ventilate  freely,  or  only  lightly,  according  to  the  weather.  Protect 
from  severe  frost,  keep  a  close  look  out  for  slugs,  thin  out  lightly, 
and  the  result  should  be  an  extra  early  supply  of  tender  roots. 
Asparagus. — Nothing  is  more  easily  forced  than  Asparagus,  but 
those  who  are  at  all  inexperienced  in  the  matter  are  warned  that  roots 
or  plants  lifted  and  forced  are  of  no  further  value,  and  old  or  well 
established  beds  should  not  lightly  be  broken  up  accordingly.  When 
there  are  enough  newer  beds  coming  into  a  full  bearing  condition  to 
admit  of  an  old  one  being  spared,  then  by  all  means  lift  the  roots  and 
force,  as  forced  Asparagus  is  a  very  choice  vegetable,  which  never  fails 
of  appreciation.  It  is  the  usual  practice  with  those  who  force  Asparagus 
extensively  to  break  an  old  bed  every  winter,  and  to  form  a  fresh  bed 
every  spring,  and  in  this  way  there  is  never  any  break  in  the  supply. 
A  mild  hotbed  in  preference  to  the  dry  heat  generated  by  hot-water 
pipes  should  be  prepared,  a  mixture  of  leaves  and  well  fermented  stable 
manure  answering  best,  and  this  may  be  placed  either  in  a  deep  brick 
pit,  or  else  in  the  form  of  a  square  bed,  and  wider  than  the  frame  to  be 
set  on  it.  Cover  with  4  inches  of  rich  loamy  compost,  and  not  with  poor 
dry  soil,  a  mistake  frequently  made.  When  the  trial  stick  shows  that  all 
danger  from  overheating  is  most  probably  past,  carefully  fork  out  the 
Asparagus  plants  and  pack  them  as  closely  together  as  they  can  be 
arranged  without  unduly  cramping  the  long  spreading  roots.  A  thin 
covering  of  soil  is  also  a  mistake,  finer  growths,  partially  blanched,  being 
had  when  the  roots  are  covered  with  3  inches  or  more  of  good  soil.  Not 
less  than  two  lights  should  be  filled  at  one  time,  and  in  order  to  keep  up 
a  succession  introduce  fresh  roots  every  fortnight  or  three  weeks.  Never 
let  the  roots  suffer  by  want  of  water,  and  if  the  soil  is  rich,  and  the 
temperature  of  the  frame  or  pit  does  not  often  exceed  60°  (less  heat  than 
that  is  desirable  at  the  outset),  every  bit  of  growth  forced  from  the 
crowns  will  be  serviceable.  Asparagus  roots  suffer  from  being  lifted 
and  stored  for  days  or  weeks  before  forcing  commences,  and  in  order  to 
be  certain  of  a  supply  in  all  weathers  the  better  plan  is  to  heavily  cover 
a  portion  of  the  bed  or  beds  to  be  broken  up  with  either  leaves  kept 
together  with  strawy  litter  or  bracken.  This  will  keep  the  frost  out  of 
the  ground,  and  admit  of  lifting  being  done  during  the  warmest  part  of 
a  frosty  day. 
Seakale. — Forcing  Seakale  where  it  is  growing  is  very  slow 
work,  and  the  earlier  supplies  at  any  rate  should,  where  possible, 
be  had  with  the  aid  of  fire  heat.  It  is  the  younger  plants  that  give 
the  best  results,  and  these  can  be  prepared  in  a  single  summer. 
These  straight  young  plants,  each  with  a  strong  crown  or  two,  may 
be  nearly  confined  to  a  single  stem,  by  breaking  off  the  coarser 
thongs,  and  storing  these  for  propagating  purposes.  This  admits  of 
their  being  packed  closely  in  deep  pots  or  boxes  of  rich  soil.  The 
tops  of  boilers,  spaces  under  stagings  in  forcing  houses,  heated  pits, 
and  Mushroom  houses  are  all  suitable  places  for  forcing  Seakale,  always 
providing  the  crowns  can  be  kept  perfectly  dark,  as  it  is  blanched 
produce  that  is  wanted.  Keep  the  soil  constantly  moist,  and  if  poor 
soil  is  used  apply  liquid  manure.  Thus  treated  two  good  cuttings  will 
be  had  from  the  plants,  though  it  need  hardly  be  added  the  first,  or 
that  from  bold  crowns,  will  be  the  best.  If  the  more  delicate  Lily 
White  has  not  been  either  lifted  and  stored,  or  else  protected  with 
ashes,  litter,  or  soil  where  it  is  established,  it  ought  to  be  done  at  once, 
as  the  crowns  are  very  liable  to  be  ruined  by  frost. 
Rhubarb.— The  old-fashioned  plan  of  forcing  this  in  the  open 
ground  answers  well,  and  is  the  only  available  method  of  raising  early 
Rhubarb  in  many  small  gardens.  First  loosen  the  soil  about  the  crowns 
to  be  forced,  then  cover  with  either  deep  Rhubarb  pots,  boxes,  or  flour 
tubs  inverted  over  them,  moveable  lids  or  tops  being  required  in  each 
instance.  Heavily  bank  over  or  surround  with  either  well-prepared 
stable  manure,  manure  and  leaves,  or  leaves  only,  keeping  the  latter 
together  by  means  of  hurdles,  and  take  good  care  no  harm  is  done  by 
overheating.  It  will  be  found  that  the  heat  in  exposed  beds  fluctuates 
considerably.  In  cold  windy  weather  the  heat  may  decline  far  too  low,  but 
a  change  to  warmer  atmosphere  may  be  followed  by  a  great  and  perhaps 
injurious  rise  in  the  temperature.  An  additional  covering  of  old  carpets, 
matting,  or  litter  will  serve  to  enclose  the  heat  in  windy  weather,  but 
must  be  taken  off  and  probably  the  heating  material  slightly  opened 
out  when  the  trial  sticks,  kept  constantly  plunged  in  the  bed,  are 
beginning  to  get  uncomfortably  hot,  as  discovered  when  drawn  out  and 
tested  by  being  held  in  the  hand.  The  early  red  forms  are  the  best  for 
forcing,  and  if  strong  old  clumps  can  be  spared  some  of  these  should  be 
lifted,  placed  closely  together,  and  covered  with  soil,  in  either  Mushroom 
houses,  forcing  houses  and  pits,  or  even  warm  cellars.  That  is  the 
simplest  way  of  forwarding  Rhubarb.  Those  clumps  located  anywhere 
near  to  hot-water  pipes  must  be  kept  supplied  with  water. 
