538 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
December  5, 1895 
insect  pests  that  often  attack  other  varieties,  and  the  only  particular 
treatment  we  gave  it  was  to  maintain  a  brisk  temperature  when  in  bloom 
and  to  maintain  cooler  and  more  airy  conditions  when  the  stoning  period 
came  round. 
To  me  it  seems  a  pity  that  Lady  Downs’s  is  not  still  popular  as  a 
market  Grape.  It  has  splendid  qualities  as  a  keeper,  and  its  merits  as 
a  Grape  for  the  dessert  table,  when  thoroughly  ripened  and  hung  till 
end  of  January,  are  not  to  be  despised.  It  lacks  the  bold  appearance 
of  some  other  varieties,  but  at  the  same  time  it  possesses  qualities  that  i 
make  it  a  Grape  that  should  still  be  appreciated  in  the  months  of 
January,  February  and  March. — John  Thomson,  Clovenfords, 
WOKH^oiitheWEEK.. 
HAEDY  FEUIT  GAKDEE. 
Winter  Pruning:  Fruit  Trees. — There  are  very  few  trees  that  are 
not  benefited  by  winter  pruning,  if  judiciously  carried  out.  One  of  the 
most  important  points  to  keep  in  view  is  that  of  allowing  ample  space 
between  the  branches  of  all  forms  of  trees  and  bushes.  This  is  such  a 
primary  essential  in  the  management  of  fruit  trees  that  pruning  and 
thinning  of  the  branches  is  frequently  recommended  before  the  leaves 
fall.  The  latter  method  has  one  obvious  advantage,  and  that  is,  a  better 
judgment  can  be  formed  of  what  should  be  removed.  Crowding  of  the 
wood  is  not  quite  so  apparent  after  the  fall  of  the  leaf  as  before,  but  yet 
it  is  evident  to  the  practical  cultivator  who  knows  the  habit  of  the  trees. 
The  removal  of  weak  branches,  dead  wood,  and  spray  also  forms  part  of 
the  superfluous  material  annually  dealt  with. 
Pruning  Large  Bush  Trees.. — Apples  and  Pears  are  most  frequently 
grown  on  this  system  of  training.  The  branches  may  attain  to  a  con¬ 
siderable  length,  starting  from  points  within  short  distances  of  the 
ground,  so  that  the  trees  Lave  practically  very  short  stems  or  boles.  The 
principal  branches  consist  of  simple  cordons  for  the  greater  part  of  their 
length,  or  other  branches  may  originate  from  them  at  various  po.=itions 
for  filling  up  vacancies.  No  branches  with  spurs  should  originate 
nearer  together  than  a  foot,  and  if  the  spurs  are  elongated  it  is  probable 
the  trees  will  be  crowded. 
With  old-established  trees  it  is  advantageous  to  gradually  reduce  the 
longest  of  these,  and  thus  insure  the  fruiting  spurs  being  kept  closer  to 
the  branch.  The  number  of  leaves  is  in  this  way  regulated,  preventing 
undue  shading  of  one  another,  while  finer  examples  are  produced,  which 
build  up  equally  fine  buds  and  strengthen  generally  the  bearing  wood, 
as  well  as  indirectly  the  blossoms  and  fruit.  When  the  spurs  are 
arranged  in  a  compact  form,  yet  not  numerous  or  crowded,  actual  spur 
pruning  will  not  be  required,  but  the  current  year’s  extension  from 
such,  whether  shortened  in  summer  or  left  full  length,  must  be  cut  back 
to  one  or  two  eyes.  Weakly  shoots  which  can  be  dispensed  with  had 
better  be  cut  out  entirely.  When  extension  of  the  leading  shoots  is 
required  for  increasing  the  length  of  the  branches  the  leader  may  be 
shortened  to  a  foot.  Extension  not  being  required  it  must  be  cut  closely 
in.  Endeavour  to  keep  the  bushes  as  symmetrical  as  possible,  and  the 
branches  at  regular  intervals.  Fill  up  vacancies,  if  any  arise,  by 
encouraging  strong  growths  in  suitable  positions.  Cut  out  spray 
entirely,  consisting  of  long,  thin,  watery  shoots  that  originate  from  eyes 
on  the  old  wood. 
Pyramid  Irees.  —  Apples  and  Pears  grown  in  pyramid  shape  are 
subject  to  overcrowding  if  not  well  regulated  annually  by  correcting 
any  disposition  the  trees  may  have  to  produce  too  many  branches.  If 
allowed  to  do  so  they  cannot  be  productive,  owing  to  the  inability  of 
light  and  air  to  reach  the  basal  leaves.  These  leaves  require  every 
possible  assistance  that  can  be  given  by  free  exposure  to  light,  so  that 
bold  fruit  buds  can  be  built  up.  Therefore  in  pruning  old  trees  rectify, 
if  necessary,  to  some  extent  annually  the  evil  of  overcrowding,  as  it  is 
far  better  to  proceed  gradually,  both  in  branch  thinning  and  spur 
reduction,  than  to  adopt  severe  methods  in  a  course  of  winter  pruning. 
In  training  young  trees  keep  this  main  object  in  view,  as  it  will  early 
induce  fruitful  habits  and  thus  simplify  the  management. 
Like  other  restricted  forms  the  wood  growth  emanating  from  the 
spurs  and  forming  the  current  year’s  shoots  requires  to  be  shortened  to 
one  or  two  buds.  If  previously  in  the  season  these  shoots  were 
shortened  to  four  leaves  or  summer  pruned,  the  basal  buds,  having  had 
the  sap  concentrated  in  them,  will  more  readily  develop  into  fruit  buds. 
Where  the  shoots  are  weakly  or  ill-placed  the  basal  buds  will  invariably 
be  wood  buds  ;  therefore,  such  shoots  may  be  cut  completely  out,  if 
possible  pruning  them  back  to  a  prominent  fruit  bud.  Some  trees  with 
crowded  spurs  have  many  dead  portions  intermixed  with  the  healthy 
buds,  and  they  ought,  of  course,  to  be  carefully  removed  without  damaging 
the  live  wood  or  injuring  promising  buds. 
Standard  Trees.— form  of  tree  seldom  needs  very  severe 
pruning,  the  chief  requisite  being  attention  to  prevent  overcrowding 
and  adopting  methods  to  secure  and  retain  a  symmetrical  and  well 
balanced  shape.  Branches  that  cross  may  be  removed,  pruning  out  the 
least  promising  or  indifferently  placed  at  their  origin.  The  interior  of 
the  trees  should  be  kept  open,  always  removing  spray,  dead  wood,  and 
weakly  branches  in  favour  of  those  of  intermediate  vigour  and  a  fruitful 
tendency.  In  this  form  of  tree  shortening  of  the  branches  and  spurring 
of  side  shoots  are  best  avoided,  the  aim  of  the  cultivator  being  to  have 
a  free-growing  prolific  tree  growing  in  a  natural  manner,  with  just 
sufficient  regulation  of  the  growth  carried  out  in  a  judicious  manner  for 
insuring  a  good  appearance. 
Standard  trees  are  frequently  spoilt  in  outline  and  their  bearing 
capabilities  reduced  by  being  allowed  to  occupy  positions  too  near  to 
each  other  or  adjoining  trees.  Full  standards  ought  to  be  planted  24  to 
80  feet  apart,  and  away  from  the  shading  and  impoverishing  influence 
of  surrounding  trees  and  shrubs.  Exposure  to  light  and  air  on  all  sides 
conduces  to  perfection  in  bearing  and  training  quite  as  much  as  careful 
pruning  of  individual  trees.  Many  trees  are  rendered  unsightly  and 
comparatively  valueless  from  ignoring  a  few  simple  rules  which,  carried- 
out  from  an  early  period,  are  of  incalculable  benefit  not  only  to  trees 
separately,  but  to  the  w'hole  fruit  garden  or  orchard. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — Early  Forced  in  Pots. — The  earliest  Vines  started  in 
November,  whether  in  pots  or  planted  oat,  will  need  to  have  the  tem¬ 
perature  increased  to  60°  at  night  in  mild  weather,  55°  in  severe  weather, 
gradually  increasing  it  so  as  to  have  it  60°  at  night  when  the  Vines  are 
coming  into  leaf,  65°  by  day  in  severe  weather,  and  70°  to  75°  in  mild 
w’eather,  with  a  little  ventilation  daily  to  insure  a  change  of  air.  The 
evaporation  troughs  need  not  be  charged  if  there  are  fermenting 
materials  in  the  house,  but  if  not  the  troughs  should  be  filled  and  kept 
so  with  the  drainings  of  the  manure  yard  or  stables,  and  cow  byres,  but 
avoid  the  drainings  of  piggeries.  The  liquid,  if  strong,  must  be  diluted, 
neat  drainings  with  five  times  the  bulk  of  water,  or  employ  guano,  1  lb. 
to  20  gallons  of  water,  straining  before  placing  in  the  trough.  The  liquid 
is  also  useful  for  watering  Vines  in  pots,  always  applying  it  at  the  tem¬ 
perature  of  the  house.!  Tie  up  the  Vines  in  position  as  soon  as  the  growth 
has  well  commenced,  and  before  the  shoots  are  so  long  as  to  be  damaged 
in  the  process.  Sprinkle  the  house  two  or  three  times  a  day  in  clear 
weather,  avoiding  a  very  close  atmosphere  on  the  one  hand,  and  a  dry  one 
on  the  other.  Disbudding  should  not  be  practised  until  the  fruit  shows 
in  the  points  of  the  growths.  Only  supply  water  at  the  roots  to  keep  the 
soil  moist,  not  much  watering  being  needed  until  the  Vines  come  into 
leaf. 
Earliest  Forced  Planted-out  Vines. — In  order  to  have  a  supply  of 
ripe  Grapes  in  May  of  the  Sweetwater  class — Black  Hamburghs  and 
Buckland  Sweetwater,  and  Foster’s  Seedling — a  much  better  setter 
than  Buckland  Sweetwater — the  Vines  must  be  started  at  the  beginning 
of  December,  nothing  favouring  a  good  start  more  than  a  good  bed  of 
leaves  and  sweetened  stable  litter  placed  on  the  floor  of  the  house  and 
turned  daily.  The  outside  border  should  have  the  needful  protection 
from  cold  rains  and  snow  ;  a  covering  of  bracken  or  leaves  with  litter  on 
the  top  so  as  to  throw  oS  rain,  will  be  considerably  warmer  than 
exposed,  and  in  their  case  covering  with  fermenting  material  maybe 
dispensed  with  ;  but  a  covering  of  fresh  leaves  so  as  to  raise  gentle 
warmth  is  preferable,  especially  to  those  entirely  outside.  The  inside 
border  should  be  brought  into  a  moist  condition  by  applying  water,  and 
in  the  case  of  weakly  Vines  liquid  manure.  Avoid  making  the  soil  sodden 
by  needless  waterings,  as  Vines  require  only  moderate  root  moisture 
until  they  start  into  growth.  Start  with  a  night  temperature  of  50°  in 
severe  weather,  55°  in  mild  weather,  and  65°  by  day,  except  the  weather 
be  severe,  when  55°  will  suffice,  not  exceeding  those  figures  until  growth 
commences.  Maintain  a  genial  atmosphere  by  syringing  occasionally, 
but  avoid  excessive  moisture,  as  it  excites  the  emission  of  aerial  roots 
from  the  rods.  Depress  the  canes  of  young  Vines  to  the  horizontal  line  or 
below  ii,  to  insure  the  regular  breaking  of  the  buds. 
Hidseason  Vineries. — Vines  in  midseason  houses  from  which  the 
Grapes  have  been  cut  should  be  pruned,  not  delaying  this  after  the  leaves 
are  all  down.  Any  Grapes  still  hanging  may  be  cut,  placed  in  bottles  of 
clear  rain  water  with  a  piece  of  charcoal  in  each.  The  Grapes  often  keep 
better  that  way  than  on  the  Vines,  as  the  temperature  of  a  room  from 
which  frost  is  excluded  is  more  equable,  and  there  is  less  danger  of 
damping,  than  can  be  commanded  in  a  vinery.  Keeping' Grapes  hanging 
after  they  are  matured  and  the  leaves  fallen  may  not  prejudicially  affect 
the  Vines  unless  prolonged  to  a  late  period,  but  there  is  a  sort  of 
preparation  for  future  growth  going  on  in  the  buds,  as  the  sap  is  more  or 
less  in  circulation,  and  there  is  a  certain  amount  of  waste  which  cannot 
take  place  when  the  Vines  are  pruned,  as  the  matter  is  then  concentrated 
on  the  buds  left.  Prune,  therefore,  directly  or  shortly  after  the  leaves 
are  fallen,  cut  any  thin-skinned  Grapes,  as  they  do  not  require  the 
maturing  so  necessary  for  such  varieties  as  Gros  Colman  and  late  thick- 
skinned  varieties  generally. 
In  pruning  adhere  to  the  practice  that  has  proved  satisfactory.  If 
the  Vines  are  in  good  condition  they  will  give  sufficiently  large  bunches 
if  pruned  to  a  couple  of  buds,  good  useful  Grapes,  large  in  berry  and 
perfect  in  finish,  so  essential  for  marketing  or  keeping  the  table  supplied 
with  fresh  fruit  daily.  But  if  larger  bunches  are  required,  or  the  Vines 
from  weakness  or  other  causes  do  not  afford  them  so  large  as  desired, 
leave  more  growth,  only  be  careful  to  select  sound,  round,  well 
developed  buds  on  firm  well  ripened  wood.  Large  bunches,  especially 
on  early  forced  Vines,  are  indifferent  in  setting  and  uneven  in  swelling 
the  berries,  and  defective  in  the  finish  of  medium  sized  bunches  ;  aim, 
therefore,  at  finish.  Vines  that  afford  well  finished  examples  when 
pruned  to  one  bud  will  give  a  larger  bunch  and  of  equal  finish  from  the 
second  bud.  But  the  wood  and  buds  of  Vines  are  greatly  influenced 
in  fruitfulness  and  the  character  of  the  produce  by  the  soil. 
