562 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
December  12, 189&. 
WQKK/o^I™bWEEK.. 
m 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peacbes  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  House. — To  have  ripe  fruit 
in  May  of  the  standard  forcing  varieties,  such  as  Hale’s  Early,  Stirling 
Castle,  Dymond,  Royal  George,  and  Grosse  Mignonne  Peaches,  Early 
Rivers,  Lord  Napier,  Elruge  (some  growers  prefer  Stanwick  Elruge) 
and  Dryden  Nectarines,  there  must  not  be  any  further  delay  in  putting 
on  the  roof  lights  and  closing  the  house.  The  very  early  Peaches,  such 
as  Alexander,  Waterloo,  and  Early  Louise,  with  Advance  Nectarine 
started  at  the  same  time,  will  afford  ripe  fruit  a  month  earlier  under  a 
similarity  of  forcing  conditions  ;  indeed,  they  may  be  grown  so  as  to 
produce  fruit  in  about  thirteen  weeks  from  starting,  the  buds  being  then 
well  advanced  in  swelling,  as  early  forced  trees  usually  are,  by  what  is 
known  as  “  hard  forcing.”  Ripe  Peaches  in  late  March  and  during  April 
bring  long  prices,  and  though  there  are  some  successes,  of  which  there 
is  every  possible  emblazonment,  there  are  many  failures,  which  are  very 
seldom  recorded,  and  much  disappointment  and  loss  is  the  consequence. 
Growing  a  few  trees  either  planted-out  or  in  pots,  and  achieving  satis¬ 
factory  results  in  certain  cases  is  no  criterion  of  their  value  for  general 
culture  ;  at  the  same  time  it  must  be  conceded  that  both  at^table  and  in 
the  market  such  very  early  fruits  are  highly  prized. 
Trees  started  at  an  early  date  in  previous  years  swell  their  buds 
promptly  without  much  excitement  from  artificial  heat,  but  those 
forced  for  the  first  time  are  slower  in  starting  into  flower.  These 
must  net  be  hurried,  and  with  the  buds  swelling  and  advancing  for 
flowering  the  atmosphere  must  not  be  kept  nearly  so  close,  as  it  is 
important  that  the  blossoms  advance  steadily  and  have  time  to  develop 
flowers  perfect  in  all  their  parts.  When  the  atmosphere  is  kept  close 
and  too  moist  the  blossoms  are  drawn  and  weak  if  the  temperature 
is  too  high ;  if  low,  little  progress  is  made,  and  the  fructifying  organs 
are  stunted  and  effete.  Admit  a  little  air  constantly  at  the  upper  part 
of  the  house,  and  above  50°  it  should  be  increased  correspondingly  with 
the  temperature,  but  not  allowing  it  to  decline  below  50°  in  the  daytime, 
sufficient  artificial  heat  being  employed  for  that  purpose,  and  with  sun 
heat  an  advance  may  be  allowed  to  65°,  closing  for  the  day  before  the 
temperature  has  receded  below  55°.  A  temperature  of  40°  to  46°  is 
ample  at  night,  and  in  mild  weather  50°. 
When  the  flowers  are  advanced  so  that  the  anthers  are  showing, 
cease  syringing,  but  afford  a  moderate  amount  of  air  moisture  by 
damping  the  borders,  paths,  and  walls  in  the  morning  and  early  after¬ 
noon.  Avoid  a  close  stagnant  atmosphere  at  any  time,  but  especially  at 
night  with  a  high  temperature.  Examine  the  inside  border,  making 
sure  that  there  is  no  deficiency  of  moisture.  If  necessary,  afford  a 
thorough  supply  of  water  or  liquid  manure.  The  surface  soil  is  often 
deceptive,  being  kept  moist  by  syringing,  therefore  supply  enough  to 
moisten  the  soil  through  to  the  drainage,  for  surface-sprinkling  does 
very  little  good. 
Trees  often  have  very  weakly  blossoms  and  fail  to  set  in  consequence 
of  water  being  given  to  the  tops  instead  of  to  the  roots.  If  there 
be  a  superabundance  of  flower  buds  remove  those  on  the  under  side  of 
the  trellis  by  drawing  the  hand  (gloved)  the  reverse  way  of  the  growth. 
This  will  materially  assist  the  swelling  of  the  remaining  buds.  If  there 
are  any  trace  of  aphides  fumigate  the  house  on  two  or  three  consecutive 
evenings  before  the  flowers  are  much  advanced  in  colour,  always  before 
the  petals  unfold  ;  and  the  atmosphere  must  be  dry,  or  the  moisture  will 
be  condensed  on  the  cooler  surfaces  of  the  flowers,  and  they  will  be 
discoloured  or  injured. 
Second  Early  Forced  House, — If  the  trees  are  very  early  varieties, 
as  Alexander,  Waterloo,  and  Early  Louise  Peaches,  with  Early  Rivers 
Nectarine,  fruit  may  be  had  in  late  April  or  early  in  May  by  starting  at 
the  new  year,  but  if  the  trees  are  such  as  Hale’s  Early,  Early  Alfred, 
Dr.  Hogg,  Rivers’  Early  York,  A  Bee,  Stirling  Castle,  Dymond,  Royal 
George,  Grosse  Mignonne,  Crimson  Galande,  Noblesse,  or  Alexandra 
Peaches  ;  Lord  Napier,  Goldoni,  Stanwick  Elruge,  Elruge,  Humboldt, 
Dryden,  or  Pineapple  Nectarines,  the  fruit  will  not  ripen  until  May  is 
well  advanced  and  during  June.  This  must  be  taken  into  consideration 
by  growers.  In  either  case,  and  the  trees  not  having  been 
forced  before,  the  house  should  be  closed  at  once,  fire  heat 
only  being  used  to  exclude  frost,  the  trees  being  sprinkled  occasionally, 
or  on  fine  days  in  the  morning  and  afternoon,  allowing  time  for  them  to 
become  fairly  dry  before  night.  Keeping  the  trees  constantly  dripping 
with  water,  especially  at  night,  enfeebles  the  blossoms,  and  is  provo¬ 
cative  of  wood  bud  rather  than  blossom  bud  development.  Do  not 
allow  the  temperature  to  exceed  50°  in  the  daytime  without  full 
ventilation.  Trees  previously  forced  will  not  need  the  preparatory 
treatment,  but  start  readily  at  the  accustomed  time.  Supply  water  or 
liquid  manure  to  inside  borders,  and  protect  outside  with  a  few  inches 
thickness  of  leaves  and  litter  on  top  to  keep  them  from  blowing 
about. 
Succession  Houses. — Where  the  roof  lights  are  moveable  it  is  much 
the  better  plan  to  remove  them,  and  expose  the  trees  to  the  elements  for 
the  winter.  This  is  inimical  to  many  insects,  and  the  trees  are  insured 
rest  and  thorough  moistening  of  the  border.  Trees  with  thoroughly  ripe 
wood  are  never  injured  by  the  severest  weather.  Even  the  latest  and 
unheated  houses  are  best  treated  in  the  manner  described,  often  having 
the  effect  of  causing  trees  to  retain  their  buds,  which  cast  them  under 
fixed  roofs,  and  the  blossoms  are  generally  finer  than  on  trees  that  are 
kept  constantly  evaporating  from  the  young  wood  through  the  time 
they  are  at  rest  under  fixed  roofs,  or  where  they  are  subjected  to  alter¬ 
nating  rests  and  excitements  where  plants  are  grown  in  the  house.  The 
fogs  and  damps  of  winter,  with  the  drenching  rains  and  snow,  suit 
Peaches  in  well  drained  soil,  the  trees  being  invigorated  and  the  soil 
enriched.  If  the  houses  have  fixed  roof  lights,  ventilate  to  the  fullest 
extent  in  all  but  very  severe  weather.  Proceed  with  the  pruning, 
bringing  matters  in  respect  of  cleaning  the  house  and  trees  to  as  speedy 
a  conclusion  as  possible. 
Pines. — Plants  to  Ripen  Fruit  in  May  and  Ju,ne. — This  is  a  very 
important  time  to  have  Pine  Apples  ripe,  as  fresh  fruit  is  not  over- 
plentiful,  and  they  are  a  great  ornament  at  dessert,  far  superior  to 
imported  fruit  in  appearance,  and  are  juicier  and  more  richly  flavoured, 
besides  having  a  more  pleasant  aroma.  Where  a  supply  is  required  at 
that  time,  and  plants  are  not  showing  fruit,  it  will  be  desirable  to  select 
from  those  started  last  March,  which  have  completed  the  growth,  and 
are  now  in  a  state  of  rest,  such  as  show  a  stout  base,  the  best  indication 
of  starting  into  fruit  when  subjected  to  a  higher  temperature,  both  at 
the  roots  and  in  the  atmosphere.  The  plants  are  best  placed  in  a 
structure  to  themselves.  Where  this  cannot  be  afforded  they  must  have 
a  light  position  in  the  fruiting  house.  This  is  only  suitable  for  such  as 
are  likely  to  throw  up  fruit  at  once. 
Such  as  are  not  in  that  condition  should  be  kept  cool  and  rather  dry 
for  a  month  or  six  weeks,  after  which  they  will  generally  throw  up  fruit 
when  subjected  to  a  brisk  temperature  at  the  roots  and  atmosphere.  It 
is  not  desirable  to  start  more  plants  now  than  can  be  helped,  as  the 
fruit  will  come  up  more  readily  a  month  hence,  and  be  much  stronger. 
Necessity  often  causes  expedients  to  be  had  recourse  to  in  small  places 
that  are  not  needed  in  larger.  Cultivators  with  few  plants  have  diflS- 
culty  in  maintaining  an  unbroken  supply  of  fruit.  Their  tens  or  twenties 
are  not  as  good  for  successional  purposes  as  the  hundreds  of  the  larger 
growers  ;  but  judgment  and  the  acquiring  of  considerably  more  skill 
often  enables  the  grower  with  limited  means  to  maintain  a  better  supply 
throughout  the  year. 
Plums. — These  are  seldom  forced.  They,  however,  are  amenable 
to  the  same  treatment  as  Cherries,  forcing  quite  as  easily,  but  come  in 
much  later  under  the  same  conditions.  Sometimes  they  are  grown  in 
the  same  house  with  Cherries,  but  that  is  a  bad  practice,  as  the  trees 
require  syringing  after  the  Cherries  are  ripe,  and  that  is  not  good  for 
these.  The  trees  require  a  rather  strone  loamy  soil,  and  not  too  much 
root  space,  otherwise  they  grow  too  freely.  Marly  soils  suit  Plums. 
Strong  clayey  loam  may  have  about  a  sixth  of  old  mortar  rubbish  added 
to  it,  and  a  similar  amount  of  road  scrapings.  If  the  soil  be  light,  a 
fourth  of  clayey  marl  improves  it  wonderfully  for  Plums.  A  2  feet 
depth  of  border  is  ample,  having  a  foot  of  drainage,  secured  by  a  layer 
of  old  mortar  rubbish.  The  house  must  be  light,  well  ventilated,  and 
heated  so  as  not  to  need  heating  the  pipes  to  a  high  temperature.  Trees 
three  or  four  years  trained  to  walls  are  the  most  suitable  for  planting  in 
houses.  Such,  lifted  carefully  and  planted  without  loss  of  time,  may  be 
started  about  the  new  year,  and  they  will  usually  afford  a  fair  amount 
of  fruit  the  first  season.  If  not  moved  with  abundance  of  fibrous  roots 
that  is  hardly  to  be  expected. 
Early  Favourite,  Denniston’s  Superb,  De  Montfort,  Early  Transparent 
Gage,  Jefferson,  Green  Gage,  and  Kirke’s  are  excellent  varieties.  Czar 
and  Oullins  Golden  grow  rather  strongly,  but  the  first  bears  well,  and 
gives  fruit  suitable  either  for  eating  or  cooking,  and  the  last  is  very 
handsome  and  richly  flavoured.  Transparent  Gage  comes  later,  and, 
like  the  preceding,  does  not  bear  as  most  growers  desire.  Coe’s  Golden 
Drop  bears  well,  and  comes  in  with  the  latest  of  the  varieties  named, 
being  an  excellent  companion  for  Kirke’s.  Plums  will  not  bear  hard 
forcing,  not  even  after  the  stoning  is  completed,  for  instead  of  develop¬ 
ing  plenty  of  flesh  the  fruits  turn  soft,  and  are  very  indifferent  in 
quality.  The  fan  system  of  training  is  the  best,  for  Plums  are  liable  to 
lose  the  branches ;  besides,  they  bear  better  on  two-year-old  wood  than 
on  the  close  spar  system. 
In  pruning  all  last  year’s  growth  will  need  shortening,  superfluous 
shoots  may  be  removed,  avoiding  having  the  growths  too  thickly  placed. 
Planted-out  trees  should  have  the  branches  about  1  foot  from  the  glass. 
Cordons  do  well  at  about  18  inches  apart,  and  they  are  very  tractable 
when  lifted  occasionally.  Trees  in  pots  are  even  more  easily  managed, 
as  they  can  be  stood  outdoors  after  the  fruits  are  gathered  from  them, 
and  they  seem  to  enjoy  the  full  exposure  to  sun  and  air  during  the  late 
summer  and  autumn.  Dishes  of  Plums  grown  under  glass  are  always 
welcome  at  dessert. 
Cucumbers. — The  weather  has  been,  except  for  wind,  in  favour  of 
wintefr  fruiters,  light  being  generally  good,  and  the  plants  have  well 
developed  foliage  where  the  glass  has  been  kept  clean  both  inside  and 
out.  Use  warm,  sweet  soil,  and  not  very  wet,  for  earthing  over  the 
roots  as  they  show  at  the  sides  of  the  ridges  or  hillocks.  A  few  sweetened 
horse  droppings  spread  on  the  surface,  and  a  little  superphosphate  and 
soot  sprinkled  on  them,  will  attract  the  roots  and  afford  nourishment 
to  them  when  watered.  This  is  preferable  to  liquid  manure,  unless  the 
plants  are  growing  in  limited  borders,  boxes,  or  pots,  then  copious 
supplies  will  be  necessary.  Always  apply  it  weak  and  tepid,  and  not 
too  often.  SuflScient  moisture  will  be  secured  by  damping  available 
surfaces  in  the  morning  and  in  the  afternoon  of  fine  days,  but  avoid 
excessive  moisture,  and  do  not  supply  water  to  the  roots  till  the  soil  is 
becoming  dry,  then  afford  a  thorough  sup-^ly. 
