December  12,  iR'  g. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
563 
Look  over  the  plants  at  least  once  a  week  for  stopping,  removing 
bad  leaves,  thinning  as  required  ;  but  pinching  and  thinning  will  not  be 
much  needed,  yet  neither  must  be  neglected,  as  crowding  is  one  of  the 
greatest  evils  in  the  growth  of  winter  Cucumbers.  Overcropping  is 
a  still  greater  malpractice,  and  allowing  the  fruits  to  needlessly  hang 
after  they  attain  a  size  fit  for  cutting  serves  only  to  weaken  the  plants 
and  prevent  other  and  younger  fruits  from  swelling ;  but  when  large 
•enough,  the  fruits  keep  several  days  if  the  heels  are  inserted  in  saucers 
of  water  in  a  cool  place,  but  safe  from  frost.  Ill-shaped  and  superfluous 
fruit  should  be  removed  as  they  appear,  and  tendrils  and  staminate 
flowers  answer  no  useful  purpose,  therefore  remove  them  ;  but  some¬ 
times  it  is  necessary  to  fertilise  the  pistillate  flowers  to  make  sure  of  the 
fruit  swelling,  and  though  this  may  give  a  “  knobby  ”  fruit,  it  is  better 
than  none  at  all.  Fertilisation,  however,  is  seldom  necessary  for 
healthy  plants  raised  from  fresh  seeds. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Celery. — If  there  are  any  rows  not  yet  moulded  up  this  work  ought 
to  be  no  longer  deferred.  Celery  is  not  keeping  well,  especially  where 
weakened  by  severe  attacks  of  the  leaf-mining  maggots,  and  if  the 
leaves  and  the  top  portion  of  stalks  are  damaged  by  frosts  this  will 
further  militate  against  long  keeping.  Even  those  rows  moulded  up 
moderately  high  ought  to  have  more  soil  banked  up  against  them,  only 
the  top  half  of  the  leaves  showing  through  the  soil.  Finish  off  smoothly 
and  sharply  so  as  to  throw  off  as  much  watei  as  possible,  and  see  that 
the  water  that  collects  in  the  trenches  has  a  good  outlet,  as  it  is  the 
sodden  earth  that  freezes  the  most.  Boards  nailed  together  in  the  shape 
■or  the  letter  V  and  inverted  over  the  rows  is  the  best  additional  protec¬ 
tion  against  very  severe  frosts,  straw  or  litter  so  soon  becoming  saturated 
with  water,  in  which  state  it  does  more  harm  than  good.  It  sometimes 
happens  that  Celery  is  in  the  greatest  demand  at  a  time  when  the 
ground  is  frozen,  and  in  order  to  be  certain  of  a  good  supply  a  quantity 
should  be  carefully  lifted  with  a  portion  of  soil  about  the  roots,  and 
replanted  closely  in  a  frame,  pit,  or  deep  boxes,  packing  good  moist 
soil  about  the  roots  only.  A  single  raffia  tie  would  keep  the  stalks 
well  up  together,  and  there  ought  to  be  no  soil  used  other  than  about 
the  roots.  Further,  protect  with  mats  and  litter,  while  the  boxes  may 
be  placed  in  a  cool  dark  cellar. 
Endive. — Frosts  have  not  as  yet  injured  the  later  or  comparatively 
small  plants,  and  any  left  in  the  open  may  be  lifted  and  replanted  in 
frames  in  the  places  occupied  by  any  that  have  been  cut.  Keep  them 
cool  and  constantly  moist  at  the  roots,  and  they  will  then  continue  to 
grow.  Fire  heat  may  be  used  with  a  view  to  excluding  frosts,  but  is 
apt  to  hasten  premature  bolting.  Blanching  will  be  accomplished 
perfectly  if  a  few  dozen  fully  grown  plants  are  transferred  to  the 
Mushroom  house  at  intervals  of  a  week  or  so.  It  will  not  keep  long 
after  it  is  blanched. 
Iiettuce. — Good  Lettuce  can  be  had  very  early  with  the  aid  of 
gentle  bottom  beat  and  frames.  The  best  for  forcing  are  the  Early 
Paris  Market  and  Golden  Queen  Cabbage  varieties,  and  if  there  are  no 
small  plants  available  sow  seed  now  thinly  in  pans  and  place  in  heat 
to  germinate.  The  seedlings,  if  either  crowded  or  kept  far  from  the 
glass,  soon  become  drawn  and  weakly,  and  the  pans  holding  them  ought, 
therefore,  to  be  raised  well  up  to  the  glass  till  such  times  as  they  are 
large  enough  to  prick  out  where  they  are  to  grow. 
Kidney  Beans. — Where  these  are  wanted  early,  and  there  are 
facilities  for  forcing  extensively,  a  start  may  well  be  made  at  once. 
Sion  House  and  Ne  Plus  Ultra  are  among  the  best  for  this  early  sowing, 
and  the  seed  may  either  be  sown  in  3-inch  pots,  and  the  plants  from 
these  be  duly  shifted  into  9-inch  pots,  or  the  seed  may  be  sown  direct 
into  the  latter.  In  this  case  use  rich  loamy  soil,  and  sow  about  nine 
seeds  in  each  pot,  covering  with  2  inches  of  soil.  Set  the  pots  direct  on 
hot-water  pipes  in  a  forcing  house,  and  germination  will  then  be  rapid. 
New  seeds  are  best  for  this  work,  as  they  invariably  give  the  strongest 
•plants. 
Potatoes  for  Porclng. — Sets  that  it  is  intended  to  force  either  in 
pots  or  frames  ought  now  to  be  showing  their  sprouts,  and  if  placed  in 
shallow  boxes  in  Peach  house  or  vinery  being  forced  the  heat  and 
moisture  will  forward  them  considerably  ;  but  they  must  not  be  kept 
out  of  the  soil  long  enough  to  damage  the  young  roots  or  the  sprouts. 
Tomatoes. — Those  w’ho  must  have  ripe  Tomatoes  early,  and  have 
not  strong,  clean  old  plants  just  beginning  to  push  out  numerous  side 
shoots,  nor  any  stout  young  plants  in  small  pots,  ought  to  sow  seeds  now. 
The  Ham  Green  type,  notably  Frogmore  Selected  and  Al,  are  most 
suitable  for  early  crops,  these  setting  freely  in  February.  Sow  new 
seeds  thinly  in  pans,  and  give  them  the  benefit  of  a  brisk  heat,  covering 
with  a  square  of  glass  to  hasten  germination.  When  the  seedlings  are 
up,  thin  out  if  in  the  least  crowded,  and  place  on  shelves  near  to  the 
glass  and  still  in  heat.  When  well  into  rough  leaf,  pot  off  singly,  using 
good  light  soil,  previously  warmed,  and  2i-inch  pots.  Sink  a  single  plant 
deeply  down  the  side  of  each  pot,  and  return  to  w'arm  quarters,  watering 
very  carefully  for  a  time.  When  well  rooted  they  may  either  be  planted 
out  in  narrow  ridges  of  soil  or  placed  direct  into  fruiting  pots. 
Parsley. — At  present  Parsley  is  most  abundant  in  the  open,  but  is 
so  sappy  that  an  ordinarily  severe  frost  will  spoil,  if  it  does  not  kill, 
many  of  the  plants.  Nothing  lifts  or  moves  more  readily  than  Parsley, 
and  if  there  is  not  enough  already  stored  under  glass  no  time  should  be 
lost  in  transplanting  as  much  or  more  than  may  be  required.  Aim  to 
save  the  thick  tap  roots,  gather  the  oldest  or  the  roughest  of  the  leaves, 
and  then  pack  rather  thickly  in  deep  pots  or  boxes.  Placed  in  a  warm 
■greenhouse  or  in  a  Peach  house  or  vinery  being  forced,  fresh  leaves  will 
soon  develop,  these  affording  a  good  succession  to  those  preserved  on  the 
plant.  Should  the  winter  continue  mild  there  will  be  no  need  to  gather 
from  the  inside  plants,  but  the  latter  may  yet  do  good  service  next 
spring. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Palms. — Every  opportunity  should  be  seized  to  thoroaghly  clean 
these  plants.  The  days  are  certainly  short,  but  work  is  not  so  pressing 
in  other  departments,  as  will  be  the  case  after  the  turn  of  the  new  year. 
Where  these  plants  are  infested  with  small  scale,  and  few  collections  are 
free,  cleaning  is  a  slow  and  even  tedious  process.  If  neglected,  especially 
during  the  season  of  growth,  they  soon  become  covered  with  this  small 
pest,  which  is  dflucult  to  eradicate.  The  best  and  only  means  of  stamp¬ 
ing  it  out  is  to  use  a  solution  of  softsoap  and  by  the  aid  of  old  tooth¬ 
brushes,  when  they  can  be  removed  without  injury  to  the  foliage.  Once 
the  plants  are  clean,  or  fairly  so,  they  may  be  stamped  out  by  frequently 
fumigating  with  nicotine.  Where  Seaforthias  and  other  cool  kinds  have 
to  be  accommodated  with  those  requiring  heat  a  sharp  look  out  must  be 
kept  for  thrips.  They  quickly  establish  themselves  on  Seaforthias,  and 
if  not  destroyed  soon  do  injury.  For  purposes  of  decoration,  where 
rough  treatment  is  naturally  accorded  the  plants,  Seaforthias  are  scarcely 
worth  growing.  They  certainly  grow  more  rapidly  than  Kentias,  and 
are  useful  until  those  plants  can  be  obtained  large  enough.  The  first 
position  for  decoration  is  generally  given  to  K.  Belmoreana,  but  for  many 
positions  and  purposes  K.  Fosteriana  is  decidedly  the  best  Palm. 
Dracaenas. — Tops  that  have  been  re-rooted  and  established  in  small 
pots  should  not  be  kept  in  that  condition,  because  the  days  are  short  and 
growth  almost  at  a  standstill.  Few  plants  become  checked  or  go  back 
quicker  than  these  when  confined  in  small  pots.  Even  young  stock  in 
smaller  pots  are  better  placed  into  those  of  a  larger  size.  The  soil 
should  be  well  warmed  previous  to  potting,  and  to  carry  out  the  opera¬ 
tion  they  should  not  be  removed  from  the  house  in  which  they  are 
growing.  A  small  shift  only  should  be  given  and  the  pots  liberally 
drained.  Very  careful  watering  is  always  necessary  with  Dracaenas. 
The  plants  should  be  kept  in  a  temperature  of  65°,  and  those  given  a 
small  shift  now  and  well  looked  after  will  grow  slowly  through  the 
winter,  and  will  be  in  excellent  condition  for  potting  again  in  February. 
With  increased  heat,  light,  and  moisture,  growth  will  then  be  rapid. 
Gardenias. — The  flower  buds  often  become  deformed  by  overfeeding 
with  liquids,  too  low  a  temperature,  and  confinement  in  the  same  pots 
over  too  long  a  period.  To  produce  the  best  results  and  finest  flowers 
the  plants  should  have  a  winter  temperature  of  65°,  and  be  perfectly 
free  from  insects  from  the  time  the  flower  buds  commence  to  swell. 
Strong  insecticides  often  prove  injurious.  The  roots  should  be  kept  in 
an  active  condition,  which  is  readily  accomplished  by  growing  young 
plants,  giving  them  liberal  root  room,  and  then  feeding  on  the  surface 
with  light  sprinklings  of  chemical  manure.  The  roots  come  to  the  surface 
and  resemble  large  quantities  of  small  white  active  worms.  The  plants 
may  be  syringed  two  or  three  times  a  week  with  clear  soot  water,  as  this 
stimulates  them  and  keeps  their  foliage  bright  and  of  the  darkest  hue. 
The  plants  should  never  become  dry,  on  the  other  hand,  they  should 
not  be  over-watered.  Too  frequently  the  soil  is  found  in  a  wet,  sticky, 
and  sour  condition,  and  the  wonder  is  that  the  plants  unfold  their 
blooms.  If  Gardenias  that  have  flower  buds  set  and  swelling  can  be 
placed  where  they  will  enjoy  slight  bottom  heat  all  the  better.  Where 
this  cannot  be  derived  from  hot-water  pipes,  it  may  be  supplied  by  a 
small  hotbed  made  with  litter  and  leaves. 
Crotons. — Those  needed  for  decoration  must  not  be  induced  to  grow 
— the  development  of  one  or  two  young  leaves  that  will  not  colour  will 
certainly  destroy  the  appearance  of  the  plants.  The  night  temperature 
should  not  fall  below  60°,  and  a  little  air  ought  to  be  given  daily  when 
the  weather  is  favourable.  This  hardens  the  plants,  prevents  fresh 
growth,  and  they  are  less  liable  to  suffer  when  removed  for  decoration. 
We  have  seen  them  flag  when  placed  on  the  dining-room  table,  which  is 
the  fault  of  keeping  them  too  warm,  close,  and  moist.  Young  stock 
that  it  may  be  necessary  to  push  on  early  in  the  year,  and  now  in  thumb 
pots,  must  not  be  overcramped  at  the  roots,  so  it  is  much  better  to  give 
them  a  small  shift  at  once.  Their  roots  will  move  into  the  new  soil 
and  take  possession  of  it,  ready  for  a  good  start  early  in  the  year.  Clean 
all  these  plants  thoroughly,  it  can  be  done  now  with  less  injury  than 
when  the  plants  have  soft  tender  foliage.  Watch  for  thrips,  and 
eradicate  them  directly  they  make  their  appearance,  or  the  foliage  will 
soon  be  injured. 
HANDLING  .BEES. 
Beginners  often  have  a  dread  of  manipulating  bees,  but  if  a 
few  simple  instructions  are  carried  out  it  is  a  much  easier  matter 
than  at  first  appears  to  be  the  case,  and  there  is  now  no  excuse  for 
anyone  who  is  interested  in  the  subject  from  becoming  efficient 
at  the  business.  At  this  season,  when  all  is  quiet  in  the  apiary, 
and  many  persons  are  anticipating  the  pleasures  of  bee-keeping, 
but  are  in  doubt  about  many  things  in  connection  with  the  pursuit, 
note  should  be  made  of  their  requirements,  and  on  any  matter  in 
which  they  cannot  quite  see  their  way  clear,  obtain  advice  through 
the  pages  of  the  Journal  of  Horticulture,  which  has  always  been 
1  the  pioneer  in  practical  bee-keeping.  In  the  summer,  too,  visitors 
