December  19,  1895, 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
587 
disturbei^,  because  it  is  usually  fully  occupied  with  fibrous  roots.  When 
that  is  ibe  case  pull  out  the  weeds  and  point  the  surface  very  lightly 
with  the  fork. 
Currants,  as  a  rule,  are  more  plentifully  furnished  with  masses  of 
surface  roots  than  Gooseberries,  so  the  greatest  care  must  be  exercised  in 
moving  the  soil  about  the  bushes.  A  mulching  of  manure  suits  Currants 
better  than  disturbing  the  soil  near  them. 
Gooseberries  and  Currants  against  walls  will  seldom  need  the  soil 
forking  deeply  at  the  base  if  the  previous  treatment  has  induced  the 
production  of  fibres  near  the  surface.  Simply  loosen  the  overlying 
crust,  and  lay  down  a  dressing  of  manure  about  2  inches  thick  for  a 
space  of  2  feet  outwards  from  the  wall.  Old  established  trees,  or 
bushes  that  show  any  signs  of  weakly  growth,  may  be  much  benefited 
by  liberal  applications  of  liquid  manure  during  mild  weather  in  winter. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — Early  Forced  in  Pots. — Where  fermenting  materials  are 
■employed  in  the  pits  and  the  pots  are  placed  on  pillars  frequent  addi¬ 
tions  of  fresh  leaves  or  sweetened  material  should  be  made  as  the  heat 
declines.  The  heat  about  the  pots  must  not  exceed  70°  to  75°  ;  indeed, 
that  temperature  at  the  base  of  the  pots  is  sufficient  until  the  buds  com¬ 
mence  swelling,  when  the  heat  may  be  gradually  increased  at  the  roots 
by  placing  material  about  the  pots,  so  as  to  have  it  between  the  degrees 
named  by  ihe  time  the  Vines  are  coming  into  leaf.  Increase  the  tempera¬ 
ture  of  the  house  gradually  after  the  buds  are  on  the  move  from  55°,  so 
as  to  have  it  60°  to  65°  by  the  time  the  shoots  commence  developing, 
allowing  an  advance  of  5°  to  10°  by  day,  carefully  admitCng  a 
little  air  at  70°  and  close  early.  Disbud  as  soon  as  the  shows  for 
fruit  can  be  detected  in  the  points  of  the  shoots,  reserving  the  most 
promising.  Stop  about  two  joints  beyond  the  bunches  and  pinch  the 
laterals  from  the  current  growths  at  the  first  leaf,  or  remove  them  up  to 
the  bunches,  allowing  those  beyond  to  extend  as  space  permits  ;  but  this 
is  usually  limited  in  the  case  of  Vines  in  pots,  therefore  retain  no  more 
foliage  than  can  have  full  exposure  to  light,  for  to  encourage  more  and 
afterwards  remove  it  is  disastrous. 
Moderate  moisture  only  will  need  to  be  applied  by  sprinkling  where 
fermenting  materials  are  employed,  and  where  these  are  not  at  command 
an  occasional  damping  with  dilute  liquid  manure,  such  as  guano  (1  oz. 
to  a  gallon  of  water),  will  be  of  service,  while  evaporation  troughs 
should  be  kept  charged  with  it  at  half  strength.  This  will  give  a  per¬ 
ceptible  smell  of  ammonia  as  well  as  moisture  constantly,  and  modify 
the  dry  heat  where  it  is  solely  derived  from  hot-water  pipes.  Water 
should  be  given  carefully  at  the  roots,  as  these  do  not  move  much  until 
the  Vines  are  in  growth,  and  even  then  fhey  do  not  require  very  copious 
supplies  before  ihe  leaves  have  formed  and  evaporation  from  them 
is  considerable. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Vines. — The  buds  of  Vines  started  last 
month,  even  those  subjected  to  fire  heat  and  forced  early  in  previous 
years,  are  now  swelling  and  need  a  moist  but  not  very  wet  condition  at 
the  roots.  Making  the  soil  sodden  by  needless  waterings  is  very 
injurious,  retarding  instead  of  accelerating  root  formation.  Raise  the 
temperature  gradually,  say  2°  or  3°  in  the  course  of  a  few  days,  so  as  to 
have  it  60°  to  65°  at  night,  when  the  Vines  come  into  leaf,  and  70°  to 
75°  in  the  daytime,  with  a  little  air  at  70°  without  lowering  the  heat,  if 
only  for  a  short  time,  so  as  to  secure  a  change  of  air  once  at  least  in 
twenty-four  hours.  If  the  Vines  have  not  been  started  early  before 
and  are  lardy  in  moving,  ripe  fruit  being  required  by  a  given  time, 
growth  may  be  induced  by  a  brisk  moist  heat  of  70°  to  75°,  continuing 
it  until  the  Vines  have  fairly  started  growing,  when  the  temperature 
should  be  allowed  to  fall  to  60°  to  65°  at  night  and  kept  at  70°  to  75°  in 
the  daytime,  it  being  important  whilst  the  foliage  is  being  made  that  a 
moderate  temperature  be  employed  in  order  to  secure  short-jointed  wood 
and  stout  well-developed  foliage. 
Young  Vines  that  have  not  been  forced  before  will  need  more  time, 
and  all  young  canes  must  be  brought  down  to  a  horizontal  position,  or 
lower,  to  insure  their  breaking  the  buds  regularly.  Some  well-fermented 
short  stable  manure  and  leaves  placed  in  ridges  on  the  inside  border 
will  afford  a  genial  moisture  and  warmth,  and  lessen  the  necessity  for 
syringing,  it  being  a  bad  plan  to  keep  the  rods  dripping  with  water, 
which  greatly  accelerates  aerial  roots  in  pushing  and  developing. 
Figs. — Early  Forced  Jrees  in  Pots. — To  have  ripe  Figs  in  April  the 
trees  must  be  started  at  once,  and  they  must  consist  of  the  early  varieties, 
and  such  as  hold  the  first  crop  fruits,  than  which  there  are  few  to  equal 
St.  John,  a  greenish-white  Fig  of  fair  quality  and  medium  size.  Pingo 
de  Mel  is  a  fruit  of  better  quality  and  size,  and  the  plant  is  a  free  first- 
■crop  bearer.  These  properties,  however,  depend  on  the  trees  not  carrying 
heavy  second  crops  the  previous  year,  and  on  the  autumn-set  being  on 
sturdy,  well-ripened  wood.  Angelique  is  also  a  good  forcer,  and  so  is 
White  Ischia.  For  general  purposes  Brown  Turkey  surpasses  all  others, 
being  good  in  both  first  and  second  crop.s,  but  it  must  not  bear  the  latter 
on  the  points  of  the  shoots,  nor  too  many  of  them  at  the  base,  or  the  first 
crop  following  will  not  be  satisfactory. 
A  slight  warmth  at  the  roots  is  highly  beneficial,  but  even  this  has 
its  disadvantages,  as  when  the  heat  at  the  roots  is  70°  or  more  during 
the  early  stages  of  growth  that  is  forced  too  rapidly,  therefore  see  that 
the  temperature  at  the  base  of  the  pots  is  not  more  than  that  until  the 
leaves  are  unfolding,  when  the  heat  may  be  75°  at  the  base  of  the  pots. 
The  temperature  of  the  house  should  be  55°  at  night, gradually  increasing 
to  60°,  and  to  65°  in  the  daytime,  5°  more  in  mild  weather,  and  70°  to  75° 
with  sun  heat  and  moderate  ventilation.  It  is  better,  however,  to  bring 
the  trees  on  slowly  rather  than  quickly,  especially  in  dull  weather,  as 
foliage  produced  under  such  conditions  is  not  of  stout  texture,  but  thin, 
and  liable  to  scorch  nnder  bright  sun  and  to  fall  an  easy  prey  to  red  spider. 
Water  in  a  tepid  state  must  be  supplied  to  the  roots  as  required,  and  the 
trees  and  house  be  syringed  morning  and  afternoon,  damping  the  house 
later  on,  but  not  the  trees,  as  it  is  desirable  to  have  the  foliage  fairly  dry 
before  nightfall. 
Cherry  Bouse. — To  have  ripe  Cherries  in  April  the  trees  must  now 
be  started.  Early  Rivers’,  Governor  Wood,  and  Black  Tartarian  are 
unsurpassed  for  size  and  quality,  it  being  unwise  to  grow  many  varieties, 
as  these  will  give  a  long  succession  of  fruit.  In  the  case  of  trees  in 
pots  greater  variety  may  be  indulged  in,  yet  there  are  few  to  equal  those 
named.  Be  careful  of  fire  heat  at  the  commencement,  not  employing  it 
unless  absolutely  necessary  to  maintain  the  temperature  at  40°  during 
the  night,  and  45°  to  50°  by  day,  ventilating  when  the  temperature  is 
that,  and  not  allowing  55°  to  be  exceeded  without  full  ventilation.  Close 
the  house  at  50°.  Syringe  the  trees  and  other  surfaces  early  on  fine 
afternoons,  so  as  to  admit  of  the  buds  becoming  dry  before  night.  The 
border  will  be  sufficiently  moist  through  the  removal  of  the  roof-lights, 
if  not  it  must  have  water  to  bring  it  into  a  thoroughly  moist  state. 
Trees  in  pots,  if  at  all  dry,  will  require  repeated  supplies  of  water  to 
secure  the  thorough  moistening  of  the  soil  to  the  base  of  the  pots. 
Aphides  do  not  usually  appear  until  the  buds  swell  and  growth  takes 
place,  but  a  sharp  look  out  should  be  kept  on  the  buds,  and  if  there  are 
any  minute  objects  about  it  is  wise  to  fumigate  on  two  or  three  con¬ 
secutive  evenings.  This  will  make  quick  work  of  the  small  aphides  that 
may  appear  from  the  eggs  in  result  of  the  warmth,  and  repeating  the 
fumigation  at  intervals  of  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  it  is  likely  there 
will  be  fewer  not  any  to  infest  the  growths.  Of  course,  the  aphides  may 
come  on  the  wing,  but  that  takes  time  to  arrive  at,  the  eggs,  as  a  rule, 
being  deposited  on  the  Cherry  trees  in  the  autumn.  The  thing  is  to  keep 
the  trees  clear  of  the  pests,  otherwise  Cherries  will  not  be  forthcoming 
fit  for  use. 
Strawberries  In  Pots, — The  commencement  of  swelling  in  the 
crowns  usually  marks  the  advent  of  aphides  on  the  developing  leaves 
and  trusses.  A  close  scrutiny  for  these  pests  must  be  made  on  the 
earliest  started  batch,  which  are  now  pushing  growth  from  the  crowns, 
fumigating  repeatedly  until  the  pests  are  entirely  exterminated.  The 
temperature  may  be  advanced  a  few  degrees  by  day,  but  it  is  advisable 
to  seek  this  from  sun  rather  than  procure  it  from  fire  heat.  A  tem¬ 
perature  of  50°  to  55°  at  night  is  quite  sufficient  for  the  present,  and 
60°  to  65“  with  sun  and  a  free  admission  of  air.  This  will  insure 
steady  and  sturdy  development,  and  the  more  slowly  the  plants  are 
brought  on  the  stronger  the  blossom  and  better  the  setting.  This 
means  relying  greatly  on  sun  heat,  which  is  very  uncertain  during  the 
winter  months,  therefore  the  plants  have  to  be  brought  on  inde¬ 
pendently  of  weather,  and  as  near  the  glass  as  safe,  in  order  to  secure 
a  stout  growth.  Syringing  the  plants  in  the  early  part  of  fine  days 
will  be  advantageous,  also  early  on  fine  afternoons,  but  avoid  a  close 
saturated  atmosphere.  Examine  the  plants  daily,  and  apply  water  to 
all  those  which  require  it.  A  plant  with  the  soil  too  dry  cannot 
grow,  but  is  wasted  through  exhausting  the  stored  juices,  and  one  with 
the  soil  too  wet  is  stagnated,  the  soil  being  sour  and  the  plant  unhealthy. 
Other  plants  should  be  started  for  affording  ripe  fruit  in  late 
March  or  early  in  April.  There  are  now  so  many  varieties  that  it  is 
difficult  to  make  choice  of  a  few  so  as  to  include  the  best.  For 
marketing  it  suffices  if  the  fruit  be  of  a  good  glossy  colour,  large  or 
even  sized  and  shapely,  quality  being  of  very  little  account,  as  sugar 
and  cream  make  up  for  that  deficiency.  Those  fortunate  in  possessing 
a  stock  of  Newton  Wonder  and  Royal  Sovereign  have  an  advantage 
over  those  having  to  plod  with  the  older  varieties,  but  it  is  only  a 
matter  of  a  few  days,  and  the  old  sorts,  such  as  La  Grosse  Suerde, 
true  stock  of  Keen’s  Seedling,  and  Vicomtesse  Hericart  de  Thury  are  not 
a  great  way  behind  the  earliest  in  ripening,  and  they  are  worth  waiting 
for  if  quality  is  of  any  consequence.  Noble  and  Auguste  Nicaise  will 
satisfy  most  people  in  need  of  a  big  crop  and  large  fruit.  Remove  the 
decayed  leaves,  attend  to  the  drainage,  and  if  necessary  rectify  it, 
washing  the  pots  clean.  Loosen  the  surface  soil,  and  top-dress  with 
horse  droppings  rubbed  through  a  half-inch  sieve.  This  and  a  pinch  of 
superphosphate  acts  well  on  the  roots,  causing  them  to  push  fresh 
fibrelets  freely.  The  plants  may  be  introduced  to  a  Peach  house  now 
being  started,  or  to  a  Strawberry  bouse  if  one  be  available. 
Plants  for  draughting  to  houses  as  started  should  be  placed  in  frames, 
or  in  a  house  from  which  frost  is  excluded,  so  that  they  will  be  fit  for 
work  when  required,  but  they  must  not  be  kept  dry,  and  the  pots  must 
be  plunged  If  there  is  danger  of  frost,  as  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that 
they  be  kept  from  damage  of  all  kind.  Plants  for  introducing  later  on 
will  be  quite  safe  in  their  quarters  out  of  doors  plunged  in  ashes  to  the 
rim,  and  a  light  covering  of  dry  fern  or  litter  may  be  given  in  severe 
weather,  allowing  to  remain  on  whilst  frost-bound,  removing  in  mild 
weather,  but  not  exposing  frozen  plants  from  beneath  protection  to  the 
direct  rays  of  the  sun. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Zonal  Pelargoniums. — Plants  that  have  been  kept  in  a  cool 
temperature  in  frames  may  now  be  introduced  into  a  heat  of  55°.  Give 
a  little  air  when  the  weather  is  favourable,  and  if  not  overwatered  the 
plants  will  soon  come  into  flower.  A  little  chemical  manure  may  be 
placed  on  the  surface  of  the  soil  at  the  time  they  are  removed,  and  also 
to  plants  that  have  been  flowering  for  some  time.  The  double  and  semi¬ 
double  varieties  must  be  kept  slowly  growing  if  they  are  to  continue 
blooming,  a  temperature  of  55°  to  60°  being  ample  to  accomplish  this. 
On  no  account  must  they  be  subjected  to  a  close,  confined  atmosphere. 
