JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER.  January  6, 1898. 
BRIEF  NOTES  ON  ALPINE  FLOWERS. 
{Continued from  page  524,  last  vol.) 
K  ir  O  D  O  D  B  N  D  R  O  N  H  I  R  S  U  T  XT  M. 
The  hairy  “  Alpine  Rose  ”  is  a  plant  of  very  considerable  beauty  and 
value  for  the  rock  garden.  Its  hardiness  is  indisputable.  With  its  com¬ 
panion  H.  ferrugineum,  spoken  of  on  page  524,  it  is  one  of  the  last  of 
the  shrubby  plants  to  be  left  behind  as  the  chains  of  the  Alps  and 
Apennines  are  ascended.  Tn  its  native  habitats  it  flowers  in  July  and 
August,  and  presents  a  beautiful  p  cture,  where  it  grows  among  the  rocks. 
Here  it  blooms  from  May  to  July.  The  flowers  are  scarlet  or  bright 
rose,  arranged  in  umbellate  corymbs,  and  with  funnel-shaped  corollas. 
The  leaves  are  elliptical,  with  the  edges  ciliated,  crenated,  and  marked 
with  ferruginous  dots  on  the  under  surface.  It  grows  from  1  to  2  feet 
high.  It  has  been  introduced  for  340  years,  so  ought  to  be  more 
frequently  seen  than  it  is  now.  It  grows  on  calcareous  rocks,  so  that 
the  presence  of  lime  in  the  soil  is  not  detrimental  to  its  welfare.  There 
is  a  pretty  white  variety  known  as  R.  h.  album. 
R.  LAPPONTCUM. 
This  Lapland  Rhododendron  is  one  of  which  I  have  no  experience, 
and  I  should  be  glad  to  have  some  further  information  about  it.  I 
cannot  recollect  having  met  with  it  anywhere.  It  is  described  as 
growing  0  inches  high,  and  as  having  open  bell-shaped  and  dotted 
violet-purple  flowers,  only  a  few  being  produced  in  an  umbel.  The 
leaves  are  elliptical,  half  an  inch  long,  persistent  and  dotted  with  rusty 
scales.  I  understand  it  is  figured  in  the  “Botanical  Magazine,”  t.  3106. 
For  this  information  I  am  indebted  to  the  “  Dictionary  of  Gardening.” 
R.  MYRTIFOIjIUM. 
This  is,  by  some,  considered  a  variety  of  the  well  known  R.  ponticum. 
The  leaves  are  smaller,  being  about  2  inches  in  length,  and  the  plant 
rather  dwarfer.  The  flowers  are  purple.  It  is  not  so  well  adapted  for  the 
rock  garden  of  limited  dimensions  as  a  number  of  others,  and  is  more 
suitable  for  the  shrubbery.  It  is,  however,  mentioned  for  the  infor¬ 
mation  of  those  thinking  of  furnishing  extensive  and  boldly  constructed 
rockeries. 
R.  PRyECOX. 
This  is  a  hybrid  Rhododendron  of  very  great  beauty  when  in  bloom. 
It  is  sometimes  in  full  flower  liefore  the  snow  has  gone  for  the  season,  and 
one  is  surprised  that  its  beautiful  peach-coloured  flowers  are  hardy 
enough  to  withstand  the  cold  weather  of  the  time.  It  cover  ,  itself  with 
flowers,  which  are  of  good  size  and  of  the  most  delicate  I  eauty.  Its 
weak  point  is  the  paucity  of  foliage  and  its  partly  deciduous  habit.  It 
grows  from  1  to  foot  high,  and  is  one  which  is  a  general  fav  urite  with 
all  who  have  seen  it  in  growth.  The  flowers  are,  in  their  general 
appearance,  like  those  of  some  of  the  Azaleas,  and  many  people  who 
have  not  seen  it  before  conclude  that  it  is  a  member  of  that  ge-mis. 
R.  Wll,SONl. 
This  is  another  hybrid  plant,  its  parentage  being  R.  ciliatum  and 
R.  glaucum.  It  is  to  some  extent  intermediate  between  its  parents  in 
appearance,  having,  as  has  been  said  by  a  competent  writer,  “  the  foliage 
of  the  former  without  the  hairs,”  and  “  is  destitute  of  the  glaucous  hue  of 
the  latter.”  The  flowers  are  rose  colour.  So  far  as  the  writer  has  been 
able  to  learn  by  comparison  of  experience,  this  hybrid  is  not  quite  so 
hardy  as  some  of  the  other  Rhododendrons  already  named,  and  it  should 
therefore  have  a  sheltered  position.  R.  Wilsoni  is  by  some  said  to  be  one 
of  the  parents  of  R.  praecox. 
R.  DAHURICUM. 
The  Dahurian  Rhododendron  is  practically  a  deciduous  plant,  and  is 
therefore  not  inserted  in  the  same  position  as  the  others.  It  is  a  good 
hardy  species  for  large  rock  gardens,  although  its  almost  entirely  deciduous 
habit  makes  it  less  valuable  in  winter.  It  is  of  erect  habit,  and  grows 
about  3  feet  higb.  R.  dahuricum  comes  into  flower  in  March,  and  has 
pretty  rose  blooms  produced  from  one  to  three  at  the  ends  of  the 
branches.  It  was  introduced  in  1780,  and  has  often  been  figured  and 
described. 
Rhodothamnus  Cham^cistus. 
This  little  shrub  is  also  known  as  Rhododendron  Chamaecistus,  and  I 
have,  therefore,  thought  it  bet  er  to  mention  it  now.  It  is  a  choice  little 
shrub,  growing  about  6  inches  high,  and  with  pink  flowers.  The  leaves 
are  what  are  known  as  elliptic-lanceolate,  and  are  evergreen,  with 
pointed  hair;  at  the  edge.  It  is  a  remarkably  difiicult  shrub  to  establish, 
and  many  plants  are  lost  in  endeavouring  to  induce  it  to  grow  in  gardens. 
A  mixture  of  loam,  peat,  and  sand  is  to  be  preferred  in  which  to  grow  it, 
and  it  may  either  be  planted  in  limestone  fissures  of  rockwork,  or  in  beds 
devoted  to  dwarf  shrubs.  In  the  latter  case,  it  should  have  its  roots  in 
contact  with  some  calcareous  matter,  such  as  chalk  or  limestone. 
Cultivation. 
The  Alpine  Rhododendrons  should  be  grown  in  soil  containing  a  good 
admixture  of  peat.  Two-thirds  peat,  a  little  loam,  and  the  remainder 
sand  make  a  suitable  compost.  They  ought  never  to  suffer  from  drought, 
but  the  opposite  extreme  of  soil  overcharged  with  water  must  be  equally 
avoided.  Some  kinds  require  chalk  or  limestone,  but  to  others  it  is  most 
obnoxious,  R.  hirsutum  and  Rhodothamnus  Chamscistus  belong  to  the 
former  class.  R.  ferrugineum  should  be  planted  in  silicious  rocks.  A 
partially  shaded  situation  prolongs  the  bloom,  but  they  do  quite  well  in 
full  sun.  Where  planted  in  a  position  exposed  to  strong  sunshine  it  is 
advisable  to  place  some  light  material,  such  as  cocoa-nut  fibre  or  leaf 
mould,  over  the  soil  about  the  plants,  in  order  that  the  small  fibrous  roots 
near  the  surface  may  not  be  destroyed.  The  same  result  may  easily  be 
attained  in  rock  gardens  by  the  arrangement  of  the  stones. 
As  already  mentioned,  the  Alpine  Rhododendrons  generally  lift  with 
a  ball  of  earth  attached,  and  can  thus  be  removed  at  almost  any  time. 
Spring  is,  however,  the  most  satisfactory  season  to  plant  them. 
Rhododendrons  are  increased  by  seeds,  layers,  grafting,  and  cuttings. 
The  ordinary  grower  of  alpine  flowers  is  not  likely  to  stand  in  need  of 
directions  for  dealing  with  these  methods  of  increase,  and  those  who  wish 
will  find  full  information  in  standard  works  of  garden  practice.  It  may, 
however,  be  said  that  there  is  still  a  field  for  a  hybridiser  who  would 
dovote  his  operations  to  the  dwarfer  habited  Rhododendrons. — Alpinus, 
(To  be  continued ) 
KEEPING  PEARS. 
It  is  very  evident,  from  what  was  published  last  week  on  page  621, 
that  Pears  need  two  forms  of  preservation.  One  is  from  birds  and  insects 
in  the  autumn,  the  other  suitable  stores  to  winter  them  in.  When  “  W.  S.” 
referred  to  the  trouble  he  had  with  Doyenne  du  Comice  Pears  because  of 
the  injuries  done  to  them  by  insects  and  birds,  he  was  but  giving  expression 
to  the  trouIJe  that  seems  to  beset  everyone  who  grows  Pears,  and 
especially  good  ones.  Insects  and  birds  are  no  respecters  of  growers  ;  but 
they  have  particular  fondness  for  the  best  flavoured  and  sweetest  fruits. 
That  partiality,  whilst  it  indicates  good  judgment,  affords  no  palliation 
of  their  depredations. 
But  are  good  class  fruits — whether  on  bush,  pyramid,  espalier,  or 
cordon  trees  on  or  off  walls — not  worth  some  special  protection  ?  What, 
for  instance,  would  be  the  cost  of  a  few  hundreds,  or  even  a  thousand, 
small  cotton  bags,  each  of  about  a  pint  capacity,  made  with  a  string  run 
through  a  hem  at  the  top,  so  that  when  the  bags  were  slipped  on  the 
strings  could  be  drawn  tight  round  the  stems,  and  thus  prevent  even 
insect  access  to  the  fruits  ?  No  doubt  tbe  fruits  would  suffer  something 
in  colour,  or  rather  the  lack  of  it  ;  but  it  would  be  great  repayment  to  be 
able  to  save  the  finest  in  that  w  ay.  The  work  also  from  the  first  could 
be  better  done  by  the  pliable  fingers  of  women  than  of  men,  and  thus  the 
garden  staff  would  be  saved  from  a  fresh  duty.  Can  anyone  else  make 
any  simpler  suggestion  ?  Bags  of  this  nature  washed  after  done  with,  and 
put  away  dry  and  clean,  could  be  similarly  utilised  for  two  years  at  least. 
Some  precaution  of  this  kind  seems  to  be  even  more  needful  when 
Pears  are  scarce.  Then  there  is  the  question,  also  slightly  raised  by 
“  W.  S.,”  and  partly  by  the  Editor,  as  to  the  best  form  of  store  in  which  to 
keep  Pears,  and,  indeed.  Apples  too.  Ordinary  wooden  or  brick  structures 
with  board  floors  and  slated  or  tiled  roofs  are  of  the  worst  for  this 
purpose.  My  ideal  fruit  house  has  always  been  a  span  with  walls  of 
solid  concrete  9  inches  thick  and  3  feet  above  the  ground,  and  a  thatched 
roof  of  reed  or  straw  fully  12  inches  thick  ;  also  built  amidst  a  wood  or 
where  tall  trees  overhang,  because  there  so  little  influenced  by  changes 
of  temperature.  A  door  of  stout  wood  should  be  at  each  end,  so  that 
when  the  temperature  outside  was  equable  and  cool  without  being  frosty 
both  doors  could  be  occasionally  opened  to  secure  ventilation  and  change 
of  air.  These  doors  might  be  padded  with  mats  and  hay  in  verjy  hard 
weather,  also  the  eaves  might  be  stuffed  with  straw  or  shavings  if 
desired. 
Very  little  of  the  hardest  of  frost  would  penetrate  into  such  a  house. 
The  inner  path  of  the  house,  2  feet  wide,  should  be  2  feet  below  the 
ground  level  and  the  floor  of  soil.  Of  course,  if  needed  the  site  should 
be  well  drained.  Mere  trellises  18  inches  apart  on  other  side  would  do 
for  shelves,  as  all  the  fruits  should  be  as  gathered  laid  very  carefully 
into  trays,  say  3  feet  long  and  2  feet  wide.  These  as  filled  should  be 
placed  close  together  on  the  trellises,  and  then  if  unusually  hard  weather 
set  in  those  trays  on  the  top  trellises  could  be  lifted  down,  and  be  laid 
on  to  the  lower  ones,  and  all  be  securely  covered  up.  The  temperature 
should  range  from  36°  to  45°,  as  a  very  even  medium.  Variableness  and 
sweating  are  most  harmful  to  fruits.  Whilst  we  have  shown  that  we 
can  grow  the  finest  of  fruits,  our  methods  of  keeping  are  open  to  much 
improvement. — A.  D. 
“  W.  S.’s,  Wiltshire  ”  remarks  on  Pears  (page  621)  are  illustrative  of 
the  general  need  of  useful  information,  although  advice,  in  order  to  be 
effectual,  can  only  be  given  on  particular  lines  if  no  essential  details  are 
omitted  by  inquirers,  including  situation  and  elevation  of  the  plantation. 
One  of  the  most  adverse  influences  on  crops  is  the  destruction  of 
blossoms  by  late  spring  frosts,  especially  affecting  Pears  on  account  of 
their  flowering  before  Apples.  Private  gardens  on  low  levels  are  likely 
to  be  sorely  tried  in  that  respect  without  much  chance  of  a  cure,  though 
mitigation  of  the  evil  may  not  be  impossible.  Fruit  plantations  of  more 
ambition,  either  private  or  market  garden  property,  should  be  rigidly 
placed  in  favoured  localities  easily  determined  and  confirmed  as  such. 
Systematic  observations,  if  published,  of  the  advent  of  irregular  frosts 
like  those  in  late  spring  would  prove  that  the  whole  question  turns  on 
elevation  of  site,  and  instances  in  point  could  doubtless  be  adduced  by 
some  ot  your  subscribers  of  the  thermometer  descending  to  a  minimum 
overnight  of  say  26°  Fahr.  on  a  low  level,  with  nearer  20°  on  grass,  with 
hoar  frost  destroying  every  chance  of  a  Pear  crop,  and  simultaneously 
another  Pear  plantation  on  ground  higher  by  100  or  200  feet  escape  frost 
entirely  with  a  minimum  of  36°,  a  difference  of  10°. 
This  example  will  probably  be  found  to  apply  as  an  average  one, 
