January  6,  1898. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
19 
assuming  the  low  site  relatively  in  a  vale  with  dew  developing  heavily 
and  turning  into  white  frost,  and  the  latter  on  a  gentle  hill  in  the  rear 
where,  in  the  absence  of  dew,  the  temperature  might  descend  to  32°  or 
even  30°,  if  not  lower,  without  leading  to  destruction  of  blossoms.  Con¬ 
clusions  about  sites  on  intermediate  elevations  can  readily  be  drawn.  Of 
course,  shelter  from  the  cold  quarters  and  a  gentle  slope  between  S.S.E. 
and  S.W.  would  be  always  an  extra  safeguard,  and  should  be  strictly 
adhered  to,  or  dry  cold  winds  might  accomplish  what  frost  failed  to  do. 
If  the  exercise  of  judgment  as  to  selection  of  sites  in  relation  to  Ajiple 
and  Pear  and  Plum  plantations,  with  correct  management,  is  established 
in  this  country  importations  will  become  superfluous  as  to  bulk.  It  is 
only  another  case  of  the  egg  of  Columbus. 
A  supply  of  lime  to  the  stations  of  Pear  trees  has  been  found  by 
observers  to  be  productive  of  much  benefit  to  fruitfulness,  proving 
the  insufficiency  of  that  mineral  in  the  natural  soil,  where  its  action  is 
to  render  latent  plant  food  accessible  to  plant  action,  besides  absorbing 
superfluous  humidity,  and  thus  assisting  towards  the  improvement  of  fruit 
and  its  maturity. 
The  classing  of  quality  of  the  various  Pears  named  in  his  first  paragraph 
by  your  correspondent  agrees  absolutely  with  my  own  observations.  As  to 
Doyenne  du  Comice,  I  do  not,  however,  find  it  unsatisfactory  on  pyramids 
on  the  Quince,  and  evidently  the  host  of  depredators  mentioned  know 
which  Pear  is  the  best.  It  produces,  however,  better  fruit  upon  a  wall  or 
as  an  espalier.  Glou  Mor9eau  ought  to  be  satisfactory  on  the  Quince 
against  a  wall,  and  also  bush  trained,  anyhow  near  London.  It  strikes 
me  a  great  omission  of  a  first  quality  Pear  would  be  made  by  the  absence 
of  Thompson's  from  any  selection.  I  found  the  fruit  at  its  best  six  weeks 
ago  from  a  wall  tree  due  south. 
As  to  later  sorts  lasting  from  .Tanuary  to  March,  the  best  with  me  are 
Marie  Benoist,  Prince  Napoleon,  Olivier  de  Serres,  and  Doyenne 
d’Alengon ;  also  the  new  fine  French  Pear  Le  Lectier.  If  more  are  yet 
wanted,  Nouvelle,  Fulvie,  and  Z^phirin  Gregoire  are  excellent,  and  all 
are  best  from,  and  some  in  need  of,  a  wall.  If  a  situation  and  soil  of 
unusual  warmth  be  available  Beurr(i  Bose  for  November  and  Cbaumontel 
from  Christmas  are  among  our  choifeest  Pears. — H.  II.  R.,  Forest  Hill. 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Onions  for  Exhibition. 
I  HAVE  found  the  best  method  of  growing  Onions  for  exhibition 
purposes  in  the  northern  counties  is  the  following  : — About  tbe  first  week 
in  January  sow  the  seeds  thinly  in  an  ordinary  seed  pan,  well  drained 
and  filled  to  within  half  an  inch  of  the  top  with  finely  sifted  soil.  Place 
the  pan  in  a  slight  bottom  heat  until  the  plants  are  about  inch 
high,  then  prick  out  into  boxes  (or  better  still  a  slightly  heated  pit 
or  frame)  3  inches  apart.  The  soil  should  consist  of  two  parts  of  loam, 
one  part  of  leaf  mould,  and  one  part  of  old  Mushroom  bed  refuse,  with 
a  liberal  addition  of  wood  ashes,  or,  failing  those,  finely  sifted  ashes  from 
the  stokehole  fires.  Here  they  must  remain,  gradually  hardening  until 
the  first  or  second  week  in  May. 
Prior  to  this  have  the  ground  prepared  for  their  reception  in  tbe 
following  manner.  Give  a  good  coating  of  half-decayed  manure,  and  dig 
well  in.  If  the  soil  is  of  a  clayey  nature  ashes  applied  when  digging  will 
be  of  great  benefit.  If  Parsley  can  be  sown  on  the  ground  the  first  week 
in  February  it  will  act  as  a  deterrent  against  the  Onion  fly.  This  having 
been  done,  and  the  ground  made  fairly  firm,  choose  if  possible  a  dull, 
moist  day  in  the  first  or  second  week  in  May  for  planting.  I.ift  with  a 
good  ball  of  soil  and  plant  firmly  in  rows  a  foot  apart  and  10  inches  from 
plant  to  plant,  and  keep  moist  until  well  started.  During  the  growing 
season  applications  of  liquid  manure  occasionally  are  of  great  benefit, 
and  as  there  is  such  a  variety  of  excellent  artificial  as  well  as  animal 
manures,  it  is  advisable  not  to  use  the  same  stimulant  twice  in  succession. 
Also  keep  the  soil  well  stirred  amongst  the  plants.  The  varieties  I  have 
found  best  for  exhibition  are  Ailsa  Craig,  Banbury  Improved,  and 
Excelsior. — J.  C.,  Lancashire. 
Early  Forcing  Peaches  and  Nectarines. 
Either  December  or  early  in  January  is  the  usual  time  for  starting 
first  early  houses  of  these  highly  appreciated  fruits.  After  the  houses 
and  trees  have  been  thoroughly  cleansed,  the  pruning  having  been 
previously  done,  we  commence  the  training  of  the  trees.  This  must 
be  carried  out  systematically,  leaving  sufficient  room  between  each  shoot 
for  the  summer’s  growth  to  be  tied  in  without  overcrowding.  A  start 
may  be  made  with  a  temperature  of  40°  to  45°.  If  the  roots  are  near  the 
surface  it  may  be  advisable  to  apply  a  top-dressing,  and  I  have  observed 
that  a  sprinkling  of  lime  and  about  2  or  3  inches  of  loam,  with  which  has 
been  previously  mixed  a  small  quantity  of  mortar  rubbish,  have  been 
followed  by  markedly  good  results.  Should  the  trees  be  in  a  weakly 
state,  add  a  few  half-inch  bones  and  wood  ashes.  Make  as  firm  as  possible, 
and  give  the  borders  a  thorough  watering.  Syringe  the  trees  freely  in 
favourable  weather  and  pay  the  greatest  care  to  ventilation,  being 
governed  in  this  by  the  state  of  the  external  air.  In  my  opinion  it  is 
advisable  to  allow  the  temperature  to  increase  a  little  rather  than  admit  a 
cold  draught,  which  is  almost  sure  to  give  a  check  to  early  forced  trees. 
Commence  with  the  top  ventilation  in  the  early  morning,  and  increase 
it  with  the  temperature,  and  close  before  the  sun  leaves  the  houses  in  the 
afternoon.  In  about  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  increase  the  temj)erature 
a  few  degrees  until  50°  |by  night  is  reached,  which  I  think  sufficient 
for  the  flowering  stage.  Should  the  flower  buds  be  too  numerous,  it  is 
advisable  to  thin  them,  leaving  the  strongest  and  best. 
During  the  flowering  season  a  drier  atmosphere  must  be  maintained, 
and  it  is  frequently  advisable  to  assist  the  distribution  of  the  pollen 
about  midday  by  one  of  the  several  efficient  methods,  A  constant 
circulation  of  air  is  essential  when  the  plants  are  in  flower.  As  soon  as  the 
petals  fall  a  gentle  syringing  with  tepid  water  will  greatly  assist  the 
embryo  fruit  to  swell.  Disbudding  must  be  done  at  intervals  of  a  few 
days,  as  there  will  then  be  less  danger  in  giving  the  trees  a  check.  First 
rub  off  with  finger  or  thumb  all  “  breast  shoots,”  then  commence  at  the 
leader  of  each  branch,  leaving  the  first  shoot,  and  remove  about  half  of 
the  weakest  growths  except  the  two  at  the  base.  At  the  final  disbudding 
leave  only  the  leader  and  one  at  the  base  of  each  growth  bearing  fruit. 
If  that  be  rather  long  one  intermediate  growth  may  also  remain.  Tie 
each  growth  as  soon  as  long  enough. 
As  the  fruit  commences  to  swell  raise  the  temperature  gradually  to 
60°,  and  later  on  65°  by  night,  with  5°  to  10°  higher  in  the  day.  Thin 
the  fruit  freely,  taking  the  state  of  the  trees  into  consideration.  An 
occasional  top-dressing  of  artificial  manure  may  be  given  before  watering 
if  the  trees  require  it,  while  liquid  manure  is  also  beneficial  to  them 
if  they  are  too  weak  to  support  the  fruit.  Keep  a  sharp  look  out  for 
green  fly  and  red  spider,  which  must  be  promptly  exterminated  either  by 
syringing  or  fumigation,  or  the  pests  will  quickly  ruin  the  young  growths, 
and  so  spoil  the  next  season’s  crop  of  fruit.  The  trees  must  never 
be  allowed  to  suffer  for  want  of  water,  or  bud  dropping  will  be  the 
result.  At  the  same  time  the  border  should  never  be  sodden,  or  injury 
to  the  roots  will  quickly  follow.  As  the  fruit  commences  to  colour  it 
must  be  exposed  to  the  sun,  which  is  essential  to  obtain  the  best  flavour, 
and  as  it  begins  to  show  signs  of  ripening  admit  air  more  freely  day  and 
night.  When  the  fruit  has  been  gathered  the  next  thing  is  to  ripen  the 
wood  thoroughly  l>y  leaving  open  all  the  ventilators  both  day  and  night, 
and  water  the  borders  as  often  as  required  until  they  lose  all  their  foliage. 
— J.  F.  I).,  Yorks. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cherry  House. — The  trees  in  the  house  started  in  December  are  fairly 
on  the  move,  and  the  day  temperature  must  be  kept  at  50°  to  55°.  If  the 
days  are  bright  air  should  be  admitted,  but  only  to  the  extent  of  keeping 
the  temperature  from  rising  above  65°,  maintaining  it  from  sun  heat  at 
60°  to  65°,  admitting  a  little  air  at  50°,  more  at  55°,  above  which  a  free 
circulation  of  air  must  be  allowed,  and  when  the  temperature  declines  to 
55°  close  the  house  for  the  day.  The  night  temperature  should  still  be 
kept  at  40°  to  45°  artificially.  Syringe  the  trees  in  the  morning  and 
early  afternoon  if  the  weather  is  bright,  but  if  the  weather  be  dull  it  will 
suffice  if  the  borders  and  other  surfaces  are  damped  whenever  they 
become  dry.  Examine  the  borders,  supj)ly  water  if  necessary,  moistening 
them  thoroughly,  the  water  not  being  less  or  much  higher  in  temperature 
than  that  of  the  house.  Trees  in  pots— the  most  desirable  mode  of  forcing 
Cherries — must  be  well  supplied  with  water,  repeating  the  supplies  as 
necessary  to  insure  thorough  moisture  in  the  soil. 
Cucumbers. — Take  care  to  husband  the  sun  heat,  giving  a  little 
ventilation  if  the  weather  be  mild  and  calm  in  the  early  part  of  the  day, 
and  close  early  in  the  afternoon,  or  shortly  after  midday,  damping  the 
house  at  the  same  time.  Sprinkle  the  floors  on  fine  mornings,  and 
syringe  the  plants  lightly,  thus  discountenancing  red  spider,  and  to  some 
extent  holding  the  pest  in  check.  Supply  weak  liquid  manure  to  plants 
in  free  growth,  and  to  those  not  showing  signs  of  growing  freely 
sprinkle  a  little  superphosphate  and  soot  on  the  soil,  and  use  tepid  water 
only  irntil  the  growth  becomes  free.  To  encourage  surface  roots  a  top¬ 
dressing  should  be  given  of  turfy  loam  from  the  size  of  a  nut  to  an  egg, 
intermixed  with  a  fourth  of  sweetened  horse  drojipings,  having  it 
previously  warmed  to  the  temperature  of  the  house,  and  sprinkle  on  this 
a  handful  of  some  approved  fertiliser.  Maintain  the  night  temperature 
at  65°,  a  few  degrees  less  in  severe  weather  and  a  few  more  in  mild, 
70°  to  75°  by  day,  and  85°  to  90°  with  sun  heat,  keeping  the  bottom  heat 
steady  between  80°  minimum  and  90°  maximum. 
Where  winter  Cucumbers  are  not  grown  plants  for  the  early  supply 
of  fruit  should  now  be  prepared,  sowing  the  seeds  singly  in  3-inch  pots 
half  filled  with  soil,  so  as  to  leave  space  for  top-dressing  when  required. 
Plunge  the  pots  in  a  brisk  bottom  heat  near  the  glass,  or  place  on 
shelves  and  cover  with  a  pane  of  glass,  removing  as  soon  as  the  seedlings 
are  just  clear  of  the  soil.  These  jdants  will  l)e  available  in  about  a 
month  for  planting  in  houses,  pits,  or  frames,  and  will  supply  fruit  during 
the  month  of  April.  Where  convenience  for  raising  the  plants  for 
planting  in  frames  does  not  exist  seed  should  be  sown  in  pots  placed  in 
a  hotbed  as  advised  under  Melons. 
Melons.—  To  have  ripe  fruit  late  in  April  or  early  in  May  seeds  must 
now  be  sown  singly  in  3-inch  pots,  leaving  room  in  the  pots  for  top¬ 
dressing.  Plunge  in  a  bottom  heat  of  80°  to  90°  near  the  glass,  or  cover 
the  pots  with  bits  of  glass  and  remove  when  the  plants  appear  ;  thus 
plants  can  be  raised  on  shelves  in  any  structure  having  a  temperature 
of  65°  to  75°  by  artificial  means.  As  soon  as  the  plants  have  unfolded  the 
first  leaves  top-dress  the  soil,  keep  them  as  near  the  glass  as  possible 
without  touching  so  as  to  prevent  a  weakly  growth. 
