JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
Januar)'  (!,  189S. 
20 
Hotbeds. — In  small  or  moderate-sized  establishments,  where  there  are 
no  light  well-heated  structures  for  raising  Cucumber  and  ^^elon  plants 
or  others  from  seeds  and  for  rooting  cuttings,  a  hotbed  is  very  important. 
The  materials  may  consist  two  parts  of  leaves  and  one  part  of  stable  litter, 
well  mixed  and  thrown  into  a  heap,  damping  if  necessary,  and  turning 
over  twice,  the  first  time  when  the  maierials  are  warmed  through,  and 
again  in  the  course  of  a  week.  This  sweetens  the  material,  rendering  it 
fit  for  making  up.  Choose  a  dry  site  and  in  front  of  a  wall  or  hedge  to 
the  north,  and  if  similar  but  low  on  the  east-west  the  force  of  winds  will 
be  much  modified.  Make  the  bed  6  inches  larger  than  the  frame  every 
way,  but  as  it  is  difficult  to  cany  up  the  sides  and  ends  quite  perpen¬ 
dicular,  let  the  base  be  1  foot  greater  than  the  hox  every  Avayq  building 
the  bed  so  that  it  will  have  about  6  inches  to  spare  all  round  the 
frame.  Put  the  materials  together  as  evenly  as  practicable,  and  beat 
them  down  as  the  work  proceeds,  making  the  bed  about  one-third  higher 
than  the  intended  height,  the  bed  at  this  season  needing  to  be  about 
6  feet  high  at  the  back  and  5  feet  in  the  front. 
In  a  week  the  bed  will  have  settled  down,  then  level  the  surface,  return 
the  frame,  and  put  in  sufficient  fermenting  material  to  make  the  back  of 
the  frame  correspond  in  depth  with  the  front,  and  over  this  4  to  0  inches 
of  leaves  or  other  light  material  for  plunging  the  pots  in,  whether  of  seeds 
or  cuttings.  We  find  it  an  excellent  practice  to  form  a  cavity  inside  the 
frame,  in  order  to  allow  the  plants  the  benefit  of  top  heat  from  linings 
after  that  from  the  bed  is  declining.  Due  preparation  must  be  made  of 
fermenting  material  for  linings  and  hotbeds  for  the  plants  as  they  become- 
fit  for  planting  in  the  fruiting  beds. 
Pines.— When  it  is  found  that  plants  under  the  ordinary  regime  will 
not  fruit  sufficiently  early  for  particular  purpose,  a  selection  must  be  made 
from  the  successional  plants,  choosing  those  which  appear  likely  to  show 
fruit  quickly,  these  being  readily  distinguished  by  the  high  centres  or 
hearts  and  stoutness  at  the  upper  part  of  the  plant  stem,  and  bringing  them 
together  into  a  light  house,  where  they  can  have  the  benefit  of  more  heat. 
Plunge  the  pots  in  a  bed  standing  regularly  at  a  temperature  of  90°  to  95° 
at  the  base  of  the  pots.  If  the  plants  are  in  the  least  dry,  water  them 
with  liquid  manure  copiously  at  the  same  temperature  as  the  bed.  Main¬ 
tain  the  top  heat  at  65°  to  70°  at  night,  with  5°  more  from  fire  heat  by 
day,  advancing  to  85°  or  90°  from  sun  heat.  Keep  the  atmosphere  about 
the  plants  in  a  genial  and  invigorating  condition  by  damping  the  paths 
and  sides  of  the  beds  as  they  become  dry,  and  lightly  syringing  as  may  be 
necessary. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Forced  House. — The  trees  started  in 
December  will  require  a  night  temperature  of  50°  to  55°,  the  latter  only 
when  the  nights  are  mild,  and  as  a  maximum  by  day  when  the  sky  is 
over-cast,  65°  by  day  from  sun  heat,  and  if  the  air  be  mild  a  few  more 
degrees  may  be  allowed.  Cease  syringing  the  trees  directly  the  anthers 
show  clear  of  the  corollas,  but  damj)  the  floor  and  border  on  bright  days 
in  the  morning  and  afternoon.  Lose  no  opportunity  of  ventilating  freely 
when  external  conditions  are  favourable,  and  when  the  pollen  is  suffi¬ 
ciently  advanced  choose  the  warmest  and  driest  part  of  the  day  for  aiding 
its  distribution  by  shaking  the  trellis  or  tree,  or  taking  a  camel’s-hair 
brush,  applying  the  pollen  to  the  stigmas.  If  there  be  a  deficiency  of 
pollen  of  any  variety,  some  should  be  taken  from  those  that  afford  it 
freely  and  applied  to  the  pistils  ;  a  rabbit’s  tail  tied  to  a  small  stick  holds 
the  pollen  well,  and  allows  the  cross-fertilisation  to  be  readily  effected. 
Inside  l)orders  must  not  lie  neglected  for  water  ;  protect  outside  ones 
with  leaves  and  litter,  just  sufficient  covering  to  exclude  frost,  but  not 
so  thick  as  to  perceptibly  ferment. 
Second  Early  House.  —  This,  the  first  in  most  establishments,  and 
planted  with  such  varieties  as  Alexander  and  Early  Louise  Peaches  and 
Cardinal  and  Advance  Nectarines,  must  be  started  to  give  fruit  early  in 
May  ;  or  if  such  varieties  as  Hale’s  Early,  Dr.  Hogg,  Stirling  Castle, 
Royal  George,  Grosse  Mignonne,  or  Dymond  Peaches ;  Early  Rivers, 
Lord  Napier,  Stanwick  Elruge,  and  Rivers’  Orange  or  Humboldt 
Nectarines,  to  give  ripe  fruit  at  the  end  of  May  forward,  must  be  started 
at  once.  Damp  the  trees  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon,  turning  on 
the  heat  in  the  morning,  so  as  to  raise  and  maintain  through  the  day  a 
temperature  of  50°,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  exceed  that  heat  by  artificial 
means,  allowing  the  temjierature  to  rise  to  65°  with  sun  heat,  and  free 
ventilation  from  50'.  When  the  buds  .swell  maintain  a  night  temperature 
of  40°  to  45°,  up  to  then  merely  excluding  frost. 
THE  KITCHEN  GxiRDEN. 
Forcing  Kidney  Beans. — Little  progress  is  made  by  Kidney  Beans 
during  the  dull,  cold  days  of  midwinter  ;  but  if  forcing  is  commenced 
now,  a  remunerative  and  much  appreciated  crop  shoiald  result.  These 
early  plants  succeed  best  in  8-inch  and  9-inch  pots.  Fill  well-drained 
pots  to  within  2  inches  of  the  rim  with  moderately  rich  loamy  soil,  making 
this  firm  ;  sow  nine  or  ten  seeds  in  each,  and  cover  wdth  soil.  If  no  other 
bottom  heat  is  available,  arrange  the  pots  on  the  hot-water  pipes,  this 
causing  the  seed  to  germinate  quickly  and  strongly.  Before  the  jdants 
become  drawn  and  spindly,  raise  them  well  up  to  the  light,  in  a  brisk  heat 
of  65°  by  night  to  70°  and  75°  in  the  daytime.  Thin  out  to  not  more  than 
six  plants  in  a  pot,  and  lightly  support  with  Birch  spray  or  stakes  and 
raffia  ;  keep  the  roots  well  supplied  with  water  and  liquid  manure,  and 
sy-ringe  freely  soon  after  midday  when  the  weather  is  clear. 
Cauliflower.— If  there  is  an  insufficiency  of  plants  of  early  and  second 
early  varieties  saved  from  the  autumn  sowing,  the  requisite  number 
should  be  raised  now.  It  is  also  advisable  to  be  prepared  for  the  possible 
loss  of  late  Broccoli  plants.  Sturdy  plants  of  Dwarf  Forcing  or  Early 
Snowball,  established  in  small  ])Ots  and  duly  turned  out  into  a  rich  bed 
of  soil  in  a  pit  or  frame,  would  produce  neat  little  hearts  well  ahead  of 
plants  in  the  open,  or  in  time  to  obviate  any  difficulty  that  might  accrue 
owing  to  loss  of  late  Broccoli.  Sow  the  seeds  thinly-  in  pans,  and  place  in 
gentle  heat  to  germinate.  Raise  the  seedlings  well  up  to  the  glass  to 
keep  them  sturdy,  taking-  care  not  to  break  them  down  by  reckless 
syringing.  When  well  into  rough  leaf  transfer  to  a  warm  greenhouse 
shelf,  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  later  potting  them  singly  into  3-inch 
pots. 
Lettuce.— The  mild  autumn  and  early  winter  months  have  had  the 
effect  of  stimulating  a  stronger  and  later  growth  of  plants  than  desirable, 
so  that  there  is  every'  likelihood  of  small  plants  being  scarce  this  spring. 
The  way  out  of  this  difficulty  is  to  sow  seeds  of  such  quick  hearting  sorts 
as  Early  Paris  Market,  Golden  (^ueeri,  and  Commodore  Nutt  now  thinly 
in  pans  or  boxes,  and  otherwise  treating  as  advised  in  the  case  of  early 
Cauliflower.  A  portion  of  the  ]ilants  may,  when  strong  enough,  be 
pricked  out  in  a  shallow  frame  or  pot  on  a  bed  of  soil  over  a  mild  hot¬ 
bed,  where,  if  properly  attended  to,  they  will  heart  in  early,  paying  well 
for  gentle  forcing.  The  rest  can  be  hardened  and  duly  planted  at  the 
foot  of  sunny  walls  or  on  warm  borders. 
Mustard  and  Cress. — A  regular  supply  of  this  quickly  grown,  popular, 
small  salading  ought  where  possible  to  be  forthcoming  now.  It  is  well  to 
sow  it  in  separate  boxes.  Mustard  frequently  growing  and  ageing  the 
more  rapidly.  Fresh  rich  soil  ought  always  to  be  used.  Make  the 
surface  of  soil  firm,  moisten  prior  to  sowing  the  seed  thickly  on  the 
surface,  press  it  in  evenly,  and  scarcely  cover  the  Mustard  only  with 
fine  soil.  If  placed  in  a  moist  atmosphere  and  brisk  heat,  and  further 
heavily  shaded,  not  removing  the  covering  till  the  salading  is  1|  inch 
high,  it  will  be  possible  to  cut  it  with  long,  clean,  well  blanched  stems. 
The  less  watering  needed  for  the  first  week  the  better.  Transfer  to 
cooler  quarters  to  keep  it  tender  as  long  as  possible,  and  sow  more  seed 
every  week. 
Tomatoes.  -  In  the  event  of  no  plants  having  been  raised  in  the 
autumn,  and  early  crops  are  desired,  seeds  should  be  sown  at  once,  giving 
the  preference  to  known  free-setting  early  ripening  varieties.  Sow  the 
seeds  thinly  in  pans  of  light  soil,  and  place  in  a  brisk  heat  to  germinate. 
Soon  after  the  seedlings  are  up  raise  the  pans  to  near  the  glass,  keeping 
them  there  till  they  have  formed  a  second  pair  of  leaves  other  than  their 
seed  leaves.  Thus  treated  a  number  of  sturdy  plants  will  soon  be  ready 
for  placing  singly  in  small  pots.  Being  well  apart  they  can  be  lifted  out 
of  the  pans  with  the  point  of  a  label,  all  having  a  little  soil  about  the 
roots,  and  not  receiving  any  noticeable  check  ;  whereas  others  thickly 
raised,  and  which  have  to  be  shaken  clear  of  each  other,  are  slow  in 
recovering  from  the  move.  If  kept  somewhat  closer  and  warmer  for  a 
few  days  to  hasten  root  action,  the  plants  should  be  returned  to  a  sunnier 
lighter  position  in  time  to  keep  them  sturdy.  Tomato  plants  ought  to  be 
placed  in  their  fruiting  quarters  before  they  become  root-bound  and 
stunted  in  growth. 
Exhausted  Mushroom  Beds. — Mushroom  Ireds  in  heated  structures 
that  have  produced  a  crop  will  frequently  do  good  service  a  second  time 
if  properly  treated.  No  old  stumps  ought  to  have  been  left  in  to  decay 
and  spread  a  destructive  fungoid  growth  all  round,  but  all  should  he 
twisted  out  with  the  Mushrooms.  In  the  case  of  large  clumps,  if  these  are 
removed  bodily  a  large  hole  is  formed,  which  must  be  filled  with  fresh 
loam.  If  the  beds  have  been  on  the  dry  side  a  thorough  soaking  Avith 
either  clear  liquid  manure,  or,  better  still,  water  well  impregnated  with 
salt  (f-oz.  to  the  gallon  of  water),  in  a  milkwarm  state  in  either  case, 
may  lead  to  a  capital  second  crop. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
The  Conservatory. — However  well  plants  may  be  grown  or  effectively 
arranged  this  structure  cannot  be  thoroughly  enjoyed  unless  the  surround¬ 
ings  are  perfectly  clean,  therefore  the  stages,  glass,  and  woodwork  should 
be  washed  occasionally.  The  house  is  now  gay  with  dwarf  Poinsettias, 
Euphorbias,  Centropogon  Lucyanus,  Primulas,  Cyclamens,  Cinerarias, 
Heaths,  Solanums,  Rhododendrons,  and  many  bulbs. 
Epacrises.— These  may  be  brought  forward  into  nloom  by  intro¬ 
ducing  them  into  gentle  heat.  Their  slender  stems  crowded  with 
flowers  are  charming  when  arranged  to  stand  above  plants  of  a  dwarf 
comj>act  habit.  At  no  season  are  these  plants  more  highly'  appreciated 
or  display  their  heauty  to  greater  advantage  than  during  this  and  the 
following  month.  Their  flowers  last  much  longer  now  than  when  the 
sun  has  gained  considerable  power.  This  is  not  the  only  advantage, 
for  the  plants  start  again  much  earlier  into  growth,  and  therefore  have 
a  long  season  before  them,  and  every  chance  of  the  growths  being 
thoroughly  ripened,  w'ithout  which  the  plants  cannot  be  expected  to  flower 
profusely. 
Tulips. — The  early  Tulips  that  were  placed  thickly'  together  in  pans 
and  boxes,  and  are  now  being  forced,  should,  as  they  show  the  colour 
of  their  flowers,  be  lifted  out.  By  so  doing  even  pots  or  pans  can  be 
made  up,  and  the  flowers  Avill  last  equally  as  long  as  if  they  were 
established.  Early  in  the  season  it  is  difficult  to  have  even  pots  of 
bloom  unless  this  course  is  followed,  for  the  bulbs  flower  very  irregularly. 
Keep  them  well  watered  after  they  are  placed  in  pots.  Single  crowns  of 
Lily  of  the  Valley  can  be  treated  in  the  same  way,  and  then  full  pots  of 
flowering  spikes  are  certain.  The  last,  if  forced  in  strong  heat,  must 
be  gradually  hardened  before  being  cut  or  taken  into  rooms  or  the  conser¬ 
vatory,  and  it  will  be  found  that  they  wall  last  nearly  twice  the  length  of 
time  that  would  be  the  case  if  cut  direct  or  taken  into  rooms  from  a  close, 
warm  house  or  frame. 
Fuchsias. — Young  plants  rooted  towards  the  end  of  August,  and  kept 
in  small  pots,  may  now  be  placed  in  5-inch  pots  in  a  compost  of  loam, 
one-third  leaf  mould,  one-seventh  decayed  manure  and  sand.  Arrange 
