22 
JOURNAL  OF  ffORTIGULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER,  January  e,  i898. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should,  until 
further  notice,  be  directed  to  “  The  Editor,”  8.  Rose  Hill  Road, 
Wandsworth,  S.W.,  and  NOT  to  Mitre  Court  Chambers.  It 
is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately  to  any  of  our  corre¬ 
spondents,  seeking  information  on  matters  discussed  in  this 
Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable  trouble  and 
expense,  and  departmental  writers  are  not  expected  to  answer 
any  letters  they  may  receive  on  Gardening  and  Bee  subjects 
through  the  post.  If  information  be  desired  on  any  particular 
subject  from  any  particular  authority  who  may  be  named, 
endeavour  will  be  made  to  obtain  it  by  the  Editor. 
Correspondents  .‘should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  should  never  send 
more  than  two  or  three  questions  at  once.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  be  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
Abnormal  Growth  on  Thorn  Hedge  ( W.  G.). — The  growths  are 
infested,  or  rather  have  been,  with  the  Thorn  leaf  -  I’olling  mite 
(Phytoptus  cratregi),  which,  in  some  cases,  seriously  interferes  with  the 
growth  for  several  seasons  together,  and  then  entirely*  takes  its  departure. 
There  does  not  appear  to  be  anything  beyond  that  on  the  sprays,  but  they 
were  withered  when  received,  and  only  showed  traces  of  the  leaf  margin 
thickening  and  inrolling.  Late  attacks  sometimes  cause  flower  buds 
to  start  into  growth  at  the  dreary  period,  but  such  occurrences  are  very 
rare. 
Stoneless  Grapes  (^Young  Grower'). — Such  splendid  clusters  wmuld  be 
highly  creditable  to  an  old  grower  if  all  the  berries  were  the  same  size  as 
one  of  them -namely,  A\  inches  in  diameter  and  nearly  round,  or  much 
rounder  than  those  of  Black  Alicante  usually  are.  This  huge  berry  only 
contained  three  seeds,  the  majority,  about  half  the  size,  containing, 
some  two  seeds,  and  others  only  one  seed,  while  the  too  numerous  smaller 
berries  are  seedless.  As  the  border  contains  “  plenty  of  lime  rubbish,” 
and  has  received  in  addition  an  annual  dressing  of  lime,  you  do  not 
think  the  lack  of  seeds  is  attributable  to  absence  of  lime  ;  all  the  same, 
we  should  not  hesitate  to  apply  4  ozs.  of  basic  slag  and  2  ozs.  of 
sulphate  of  potash  per  square  yard  now,  pointing  lightly  in.  We 
attribute,  however,  the  condition  of  the  Grapes  mainly  to  defective 
fertilisation.  It  may  be  that  the  stigmas  were  excessively  moist  at  the 
time  of  pollen  distribution,  which  we  have  known  to  occur  in  the  case 
of  this  usually  free  setting  variety,  and  especially  wuth  vigorous  Vines. 
Pay  attention  to  atmospheric  conditions  another  year  during  the 
flowering  period,  and  satisfy  yourself  that  there  is  a  free  distribution 
of  the  pollen  to  not  over-moist  stigmas,  and  we  think  you  will  secure  a 
more  uniform  set  and  better  standard  fruit. 
Brown  Scale  (^H.  G.). — This  pest,  of  which  there  are  several  species, 
does  not  live  apart  from  the  living  trees  or  plants.  If  you  brush  ofif  the 
scale  while  soft  it  cannot  live,  like  mealy  bug,  in  the  soil  or  about  the 
houses,  for  when  once  fixed  it  is  so  for  life,  not  having  power  of  locomo¬ 
tion,  the  legs  being  dispensed  with  at  a  comparatively  early  age  as  parts 
no  longer  useful.  But  if  you  leave  the  scale  until  mature,  quite  hard  and 
brown,  the  small  dust- like  eggs  fly  in  all  directions,  as  you  have  no  doubt 
observed,  and  these— the  only  hibernating  form  of  the  insect  — may  live 
over  the  winter,  and  then,  hatching  out,  the  larvae  ascend  the  trees  or 
plants  and  fix  themselves  after  a  few  days  by  their  beaks  into  the  tissues 
for  the  purpose  of  drawing  nourishment.  When  first  hatched  they  are 
whitish  woodlouse-like  creatures,  and  are  then  very  easily  killed  by  the 
usual  advertised  insecticides,  fumigation  with  tobacco,  or  vaporisation 
with  nicotine.  You  are  not  bothering  us  in  the  least  about  these  pests  ; 
we  are  pleased  to  render  any  service  to  our  subscribers.  You  are  quite 
right  about  the  insects  being  difficult  to  kill  on  young  wood,  such  as  that 
of  Peach  trees,  as  during  the  winter  the  pests  are  in  the  egg  state  and 
often  not  reached  beneath  the  scale,  or  this  falls  with  eggs  intact,  and  the 
young  appear  in  the  following  spring.  Petroleum  emulsion,  however, 
kills  all  with  which  it  comes  into  contact,  and  even  better  is  caustic  soda 
and  potash  solution,  but  this  requires  to  be  used  carefully  on  green  shoots 
of  Peach  trees,  and  in  every  case  the  solution  must  reach  the  eggs.  In 
stoves  and  similar  structures  the  pests  breed  the  year  round,  and  the 
cleaning  being  often  deferred  until  the  scale  becomes  hard  the  eggs  are 
scattered  far  and  wide.  Frequent  fumigation  is  unquestionably  the 
proper  thing,  as  when  just  hatched  the  larvae  are  as  easy  to  kill  as  green 
fly,  and  soft  scale  cannot  possiidy  return  to  the  plant  when  once  removed. 
The  eggs,  therefore,  are  the  source  of  infestation,  and  often  carried  from 
house  to  house  on  the  clothes  of  workmen,  and  in  other  ways. 
Lawn  Manure  {H.  C.). — The  formula  is  good,  but  whether  the  best  for 
your  purpose  no  one  can  know  in  the  absence  of  information  on  the 
character  of  the  soil,  the  present  condition  of  the  sward,  and  as  to 
whether  an  increase  of  Grasses  or  Clover  is  most  desired.  For  present 
or  early  application  you  would  not  err  by  using  thrice  the  amount  of 
superphosphate,  reserving  the  nitrate  of  soda  and  salt  for  a  dressing  in 
March. 
Aquatic  Plants  (A.  Johnson). — For  pond  margins  Menyanthes  trifo- 
liata,  Rumex  hydrolapathum,  Typha  angustifolia,  Carex  pendula,  Scirpus 
lacustris,  Butomus  umbellatus,  Calla  palustris,  Lysimachia  thyrsiflora, 
Acorus  graminens.  Iris  pseudacorus,  and  Lythrum  roseum  superbum. 
These  all  grow  well  on  or  close  to  the  edge.  To  plant  in  the  pond  bottom 
there  are  Nymphsea  alba,  Nuphar  lutea,  N.  ad  vena,  Villarsia  nymphae- 
oides,  Stratiotes  aloides,  Pontederia  cordata,  Aponogeton  distachyon,  and 
Hottonia  paluYris. 
Planting  Anemones  (C.  J.). — Choose  the  first  fine  day  when  the  soil 
works  cleanly  for  planting  your  Anemones.  They  are  best  planted  in 
the  autumn,  but  will  do  now.  Draw  drills  across  the  bed  2  inches  deep 
and  5  or  6  inches  apart,  and  plant  the  tubers  5  inches  apart  in  the  rows. 
For  choice  varieties  a  thin  layer  of  sand  scattered  under  and  around 
each  tuber  will  be  useful.  As  soon  as  the  bed  is  planted  cover  the 
tubers  with  sandy  loam  from  a  basket  or  wheelbarrow.  Take  care  that 
the  tubers  are  placed  the  right  side  up,  by  observing  the  side  that  has 
the  old  small  fibres  on  it.  That  side  place  next  to  the  bottom  of  the  drill. 
When  all  are  planted  and  covered  up  the  right  depth  (2  inches)  level 
the  surface  with  a  garden  rake. 
Eucharises  Losing  Their  Leaves  (^Puzzled). — The  plants  have  evidently 
received  a  check  by  some  cause  or  other.  This  would  occur  if  they  were 
removed  to  a  cooler  position  than  that  which  they  previously  occupied. 
You  say  the  pots  are  not  embedded  in  tan  or  anything  else.  If  they  were 
plunged  prior  to  their  removal  the  roots  would  probably  receive  a  check 
and  the  leaves  fail.  If  you  can  now  plunge  them  in  a  warmer  position  in 
the  house  they  will  be  safer  than  with  the  pots  exposed,  inasmuch  as  the 
root  moisture  will  be  more  uniform,  and  this  must  by  no  means  be 
excessive  during  the  present  month,  all  that  is  necessary  being  to  keep  the 
soil  perceptibly  moist.  If  you  can  keep  the  roots  healthy  and  the  bulbs 
are  large  enough,  flowers  may  be  expected  in  due  course.  You  do  not  say 
if  the  plants  have  flowered  previously. 
Ramondia  pyrenaica  {B.  T.  J.). — The  plant  you  name  inhabits  a  some¬ 
what  varied  area  in  the  Pyrenean  and  Piedmontese  Alps,  ofttimes  on 
the  steep  and  almo.«t  perpendicular  faces  of  the  rocks.  When  so  situated, 
however,  it  is  generally  where  moisture  is  in  abundance,  as  it  is  impatient 
of  drought,  preferring  protection  from  hot  sun.  This,  however,  is  of  not 
so  great  moment  as  a  plentiful  supply  of  moisture  in  a  well-drained 
position.  Plant  it  in  equal  parts  of  peat  and  loam,  together  with  a  liberal 
addition  of  silver  sand  or  grit— it  delights  to  send  its  tiny  fibres  into 
moist  sand — and  success  will  invariably  attend  the  operation.  From  its 
extremely  prostrate  habit  of  growth  it  is  not  to  be  recommended  as  a 
border  plant,  since  heavy  rains  keep  the  plant  almost  wholly  covered  with 
earth  ;  but  on  a  mound  above  the  ordinary  level  it  may  be  made  as  equally 
at  home  as  in  its  native  habitat.  It  is  chiefly  increased  from  seed,  though 
now  and  then  some  few  plants  throw  out  offsets ;  but  to  detach  these  with 
roots  is  a  very  dangerous  operation,  and  should  always  be  avoided.  Sow 
the  seed  as  soon  as  ripe.  This  will  be  about  the  middle  of  August,  and 
the  seedlings  will  appear  the  following  spring.  Do  not  be  discouraged  by 
the  slow  growth  of  the  seedlings,  which  is  remarkable.  When  the  seed¬ 
lings  are  of  sufficient  size  they  may  either  be  potted  or  pricked  out  in 
small  colonies  on  the  rockery. 
Growing  Endive  (^Amateur). — It  is  hardly  worth  w  hile  sowing  Endive 
before  the  middle  of  June  for  the  first  main  crop,  the  principal  crop — ■ 
that  is,  for  winter  use,  needing  to  be  sown  early  in  July,  and 
that  for  spring  use  at  the  end  of  that  month.  The  seed  may  be  sown 
in  drills  15  inches  apart  and  the  plants  thinned  to  1  foot  distance  in 
the  rows.  This  is  the  best  for  the  early  crops  or  those  that  have  to 
bo  blanched  on  the  ground,  for  which  there  is  no  better  method  than 
tying  the  head  with  matfing  or  covering  them  with  pots,  closing  the 
apertures  so  as  to  exclude  light.  The  leaves  should  be  gathered 
together  and  tied  near  the  top,  and  in  a  week  afterwards  they  should 
be  again  tied,  this  time  about  the  middle,  and  the  plants  must  be 
perfectly  dry.  About  ten  days  in  summer  and  three  weeks  in  winter  are 
necessary  for  blanching.  The  crops  that  are  intended  for  lifting  and 
placing  in  frames  are  best  sown  thinly  in  rich  fine  soil  in  shallow  drills 
about  4  inches  apart,  sowing  the  seeds  thinly,  thinning  to  3  inches  apart, 
and  when  having  four  leaves  take  up  carefully  and  plant  in  rows 
15  inches  apart  and  1  foot  asunder  in  the  rows,  watering  as  required. 
These  lift  with  better  roots  than  if  not  transplanted.  The  plants  should 
be  placed  in  frames  or  pits  before  being  frosted,  be  well  ventilated  in 
favourable  weather,  and  protected  in  severe  weather  so  as  to  exclude 
frost.  Blanching  is  effected  in  the  same  way  as  with  those  outdoors — 
namely,  by  tying  up  the  leaves  about  three  weeks  before  the  heads  are 
required  for  use,  tying  up  a  ^quantity  each  week,  by  doing  which  a 
constant  succession  of  blanched  heads  will  be  secured.  Late  crops  may 
be  planted  at  the  foot  of  walls  or  in  frames  protected  from  frost,  and  are 
blanched  in  spring  same  as  the  early  crops  by  tying,  covering  with  pots, 
or  placing  a  slate  or  tile  over  the  curled  varieties. 
Names  of  Emits.  —  Notice.  —  We  have  pleasure  in  naming  good 
typical  fruits  (when  the  names  are  discoverable)  for  the  convenience  of 
regular  subscribers,  who  are  the  growers  of  such  fruit,  and  not  col¬ 
lectors  of  specimens  from  non-subscribers.  This  latter  procedure  is 
wholly  irregular,  and  we  trust  that  none  of  our  readers  will  allow 
