.Tanuaiy  13,  1898. 
44  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
stated.  Wood  ashes  or  burnt  earth  is  said  to  prevent  or  check  the 
maggot  to  a  great  extent.  This  should  be  sprinkled  in  the  drills  when 
sowing,  or  in  the  holes  when  planting  out.  Ailsa  Craig  and  Golden 
Rocca  are  good  for  exhibition,  and  Bedfordshire  Champion,  James  Keep¬ 
ing,  and  Brown  Globe  are  first-rate  late  keeping  varieties.  —  Nil 
Desperanbum. 
Chrysanthemum  Princess  Victoria. 
Good  w'hite  decorative  Chrysanthemums  are  not  too  plentiful  about 
Christmas  time.  The  above  variety  is  excellent  in  everyway,  and  should 
become  popular  with  market  growers,  as  it  recjuires  little  or  no  tying,  and 
is  a  mildew-resisting  variety.  It  is  dwarf  and  sturdy  in  habit,  with 
splendid  foliage  well  up  to  the  flowers,  which  are  borne  on  stiff  stems. 
The  flowers  are  large  and  full.  It  is  a  creamy  white  in  colour,  some¬ 
times  tinted  with  lemon  or  pink,  but  if  afforded  a  little  artificial  heat  it 
opens  much  better  and  becomes  white.  Other  good  late  varieties  are 
G.  W.  Childs,  Golden  Gale,  L.  Canning,  and  W.  II.  Lincoln. — J.  G. 
WQKK.FOfi.™WEEK. 
HARDY  BRUIT  GARDEN. 
Pruning  Wall  Fruit  Trees. —  Cordons. — If  single  cordons  of  Apples 
or  Pears  are  not  originally  planted  too  thickly,  they  will  only  reqttire  at 
the  winter  pruning  the  side  shoots  shortening  back  to  basal  buds,  or  as 
near  as  possible  to  the  main  branch,  without  destroying  good  fruit  buds. 
This  applies  to  all  the  forms  of  cordons,  whether  grown  as  single  vertical 
or  diagonal  stemmed  ])lants,  or  those  having  two  or  more  stems.  The 
chief  care  is  in  the  first  formation  of  the  forms  so  as  not  to  train  in  main 
branches  too  closely,  in  no  case  less  than  a  foot  asunder.  Where  branches 
exist  closer  together  than  this  it  is  advisable  that  the  most  crowded  be 
removed.  This  is  especially  necessary  with  old  established  cordons, 
having  clusters  of  spurs,  which  in  the  aggregate  take  up  a  large  amount 
of  space. 
Though  the  branches  may  have  apparently  room  enough  as  indicated 
by  present  appearances,  yet  in  summer  the  spread  of  foliage  is  so  ample 
that  one  branch  will  unduly  shade  another,  and  not  all  the  fruiting  spurs 
will  be  able  to  obtain  sufficient  light.  Branches  also  trained  at  the 
orthodox  distances  asunder  may,  if  crowded  with  spurs,  be  greatly 
benefited  by  having  the  ill-placed,  projecting  s))urs  shortened  back, 
dead  wood  or  weak  spurs  cut  out.  Young  branches  in  the  process  of 
formation  train  straight  in  the  direction  desired. 
Horizontal-trained  and  Espalier.  —  Apples,  Pears,  and  Plums  are  chiefly 
grown  in  this  form,' and  if  the  main  branches  are  kept  a  foot  to  15  inches 
asunder  they  wull  long  continue  fruitful.  Annual  attention  must  be 
given  to  reducing  crowded  spurs,  especially  not  allowing  those  situated 
on  the  upper  branches  to  overhang  to  an  undue  extent  those  below 
them.  Shortening  the  strongest  growing  foreright  shoots  in  summer 
is  conducive  to  the  plumping  up  of  fruit  spurs  at  the  base,  and  to  these 
the  side  shoots  ought  now  to  be  pruned.  The  leaders  of  branthes 
which  have  not  reached  their  limit  of  space  may  be  shortened  but  little, 
only  unripe  ends  being  removed  ;  but  if  there  is  no  more  space  to  bll,  cut 
closely  back. 
Fayi  and  Unrestricted  Trees. — Trees  which  do  not  take  kindly  to 
restricted  training  are  best  grown  in  fan  shape.  But  there  are  restricted 
trees  in  fan  form  as  well  as  unrestricted.  In  some  positions,  Pears  may 
be  grown  on  the  former  plan  with  branches  radiating  out  like  a  fan  and 
extending  to  any  length  the  space  admits  of ;  but  the  points  at  least  of 
the  branches  ought  not  to  be  closer  together  than  a  foot.  The  summer 
pruning  and  the  winter  shortening  are  the  same  as  with  other  restricted 
forms. 
Plums  and  Cherries,  chiefly  of  the  Kentish  and  Morello  type,  enjoy 
free  extension,  whereby  the  oldest  and  worn-out  branches  can  be  con¬ 
stantly  renewed  with  3'oung  wood.  The  Cherries  named  bear  the  best 
fruit  on  well-ripened  growths  of  the  previous  year,  and  these  should  be 
freely  nailed  or  tied  in,  shoots  for  the  purpose  being  specially  retained  at 
the  base  of  the  current  year's  bearing  growths.  Secure  them  4  inches 
apart  all  over  the  trees.  I’revioiislj',  however,  overhaul  the  principal 
branches,  cutting  out  anj'  exhausted  parts. 
Plums  are  better  adapted  for  bearing  fruit  on  older  growdhs,  shoots 
two  and  three  years  old  bearing  freel)'.  Retain  them  while  they  remain 
prolific.  After  they  cease  to  be  so,  occupy  their  places  with  younger 
shoots,  trained  in  for  the  purpose.  A  combination  of  branches  bearing 
natural  and  artificial  spurs,  and  j’ouuger  growths  bearing  natural  spurs 
only,  is  the  outcome  of.  this  method,  but  it  is  very  important  to  guard 
against  overcrowding. 
Pruning  Outdoor  Vines.  A'ines  on  walls  should  have  the  pruning 
completed.  If  the  spur-furnislied  branches  are  not  too  old  retain  them, 
pruning  back  the  lateral  shoots  to  two  buds,  selecting  the  best  of  these 
when  they  lireak  into  growth.  Also,  if  there  lie  room,  it  is  desirable  to 
lay  in  a  number  of  well-ripened  canes,  prilned  to  aliout  4  feet  in  length  ; 
these,  being  reserved  .for  the  juirpose,  will  profitably  utilise  any  vacant 
jilaces,  and  may  be  trained-in  to  take  the  place  of  any  old  or  exhausted 
liranches.  After  pruning  dress  the  branches  and  rods  with  Gishurst 
compound,  8  ozs.  to  the  gallon  of  water,  using  warm,  and  brushing  well 
into  every  angle  and  crevice.  Softsoap,  4  ozs.  to  the  gallon,  or  any  other 
effective  insecticide,  will  also  answer,  the  object  being  to  destroy  red 
spider,  to  which  Vines  on  warm  walls  are  subject. 
Manuring  Fruit  Trees.  Mulching. — A  liberal  mulching  of  decayed 
manure  conveyed  to  the  fruiting  quarters  during  frost}'  weather,  and 
sjiread  upon  the  soil  over  the  roots  of  trees  and  bushes,  will  be  of  great 
benefit  to  all  except  those  growing  very  vigorously  and  not  bearing. 
Trees  and  busbes  which  bear  good  crops  rciiuire  annual  assistance,  either 
with  natural  or  artificial  manure  or  both  combined,  in  order  to  afford 
substantial  sup])ort  to  the  roots.  It  attracts  them  to  the  surface,  prevent¬ 
ing  their  descending  into  the  subsoil  in  search  of  food  and  moisture. 
Applying  Lvpuid  J/uBurc.— Trees  on  grass,  which  cannot  so  well  have 
manure  applied  over  the  roots,  may  receive  applications  of  liquid  manure 
if  such  be  available.  In  emptying  cesspools  or  sewage  tanks  the  contents 
may  safely  be  given  to  established  old  fruit  trees,  diluting  freely  with 
water  should  it  be  too  strong.  Pour  it  over  the  roots  as  far  as  they 
extend. 
Trees  for  Grafting. — Old  trees  intended  to  be  grafted  with  improved 
varieties  now  require  the  branches  heading  down  to  near  the  point  of 
insertion  of  grafts. 
Collecting  Scions.— The  scions  of  the  various  varieties  should  be  tied 
sejiarately  in  bundles  and  labelled  ;  then  lay  them  in  sand  or  soil  on  a 
cool  north  aspect,  so  that  they  may  remain  dormant  until  the  grafting 
season. 
BRUIT  BORCING. 
Earliest  Houses. — When  the  air  is  sharp  and  cold  great  care 
must  be  given  to  the  ventilation,  for  draughts  of  cold  air  cause  injury. 
Home  ventilation,  however,  is  necessary  to  prevent  the  leaves  becoming 
thin  and  poor  in  texture,  as  in  that  condition  they  are  liable  to  be  scorched 
and  to  fall  a  prey  to  red  spider.  Disbud  when  the  best  shows  for  fruit 
can  be  distinguished  ;  tie  down  the  shoots  before  they  touch  the  glass, 
taking  care  not  to  bring  them  down  too  sharply  or  to  tie  too  tightly. 
Stop  two  or  more  joints  beyond  the  bunch,  not,  however,  acting  on  any 
rule-of-thumb  principle,  but  be  guided  by  the  space  at  command.  Do  not 
burden  the  ^'ines  with  superfluous  bunches,  one  on  a  lateral  is  sufficient, 
for  overcropping  and  overcrowding  the  foliage  are  great  evils.  As  the 
bunches  come  into  flower  maintain  a  day  temperature  of  70°  to  75°, 
falling  5°  however  during  the  night,  and  keep  the  atmosphere  rather 
drier.  Supply  water  or  liij^uid  manure  as  required,  but  not  making  the 
soil  sodden,  as  this  often  hinders  root  formation,  gives  a  plentiful  pro¬ 
trusion  of  aerial  roots,  and  a  sappy  growth  with  shanking.  Outside 
borders  must  have  attention,  which  will  be  very  slight  where  they  have 
been  covered  with  leaves  and  dry  fern  or  litter,  but  where  fermenting 
materials  are  used  they  must  be  replenished,  keeping  a  good  heap  of 
leaves  and  stable  litter  in  the  reserve  ground  to  admit  of  a  supply  being 
obtained  readil}'. 
Houses  to  Bipen  Grapes  in  June. — Start  the  Vines  at  once.  Supply  the 
inside  border  thoroughly  with  water  a  few  degrees  warmer  than  the 
hou.se.  Liquid  manure  at  this  stage  will  come  into  use  later  on,  as  it 
must  undergo  certain  changes  before  it  can  be  of  any  use  to  the  Vines. 
To  economise  fuel  fermenting  material  may  be  used  inside  the  house, 
tlirowing  it  into  a  heap  on  the  floor  and  turning  frequently  to  liljerate  the 
ammonia  and  maintain  a  genial  warmth  and  moisture  constantly,  adding 
fresh  material  as  necessary.  Where  fermenting  materials  are  not 
available  the  floors  and  borders  may  be  sprinkled  with  liquid  manure 
dail}'.  The  temperature  should  be  50°  to  55°  by  artificial  means,  and  65° 
from  sun  heat.  If  the  roots  are  outside  they  will  need  protecting  with  a 
good  thickness  of  dry  leaves,  litter,  or  fern.  This  will  secure  to  them  a 
much  higher  temperature  than  if  there  were  no  such  protection,  and 
is  often  better  than  fermenting  materials  that  are  not  well  attended  to  in 
maintaining  the  heat.  Where  the  border  has  been  exposed  to  cold  rains 
and  snow  the  temperature  will  be  little,  if  any,  warmer  than  the 
surrounding  soil,  and  a  good  bed  of  fermenting  material  can  be  used 
with  advantage,  placing  it  on  the  border  about  18  inches  thick.  This 
will,  to  some  extent,  warm  the  soil  and  encourage  the  growth  of  the 
roots,  but  it  must  be  removed  by  the  time  the  .sun  gains  power  to  warm 
the  soil,  leaving  only  enough  for  a  mulch. 
Houses  from  which  the  Grapes  Have  been  (/«<.— Prune  the  Vines  without 
delay.  It  not  only  avoids  danger  of  bleeding,  but  insures  complete  rest. 
Cut  to  a  plump  bud  as  near  the  base  as  possible.  Some  Vines,  however, 
do  not  prove  satisfactory  .when  closely  pruned.  The  operator  must  act 
accordingly,  and  choose  the  second  to  fourth  bud,  or  the  best  eye  on  firm 
well-ripened  wood  wherever  situated.  This  will  cause  the  spurs  to 
become  long,  but  that  can  be  obtained  by  training  a  shoot  from  the  base 
to  displace  it  after  bearing,  and  the  Vine  will  be  all  the  better  for  the 
extra  foliage,  showing  it  in  the  finish  of  the  crop.  Remove  all  loose  bark, 
avoid  peeling  and  scraping,  washing  the  rods  with  softsoap  and  water, 
and  after  thoroughly  cleansing  the  house  dress  with  an  insecticide.  Clear 
away  all  loose  soil,  supply  fresh  lumjiy  loam  in  its  place,  and  sprinkle 
about  half  pound  of  some  approved  fertiliser  per  square  yard  where  the 
Vines  are  in  need  of  substantial  support,  the  material  being  pointed  in. 
Keep  the  house  as  cool  as  possible  to  secure  complete  rest. 
Late  Grapes. — It  is  absolutely  essential  that  Grapes  hanging  late  be 
kept  cool  and  uniform  in  temperature.  Maintain  a  mean  temperature 
of  50°  for  Muscats,  45°  for  other  varieties  that  have  finished  late,  with  a 
dry  atmosphere  where  such  are  hanging.  Examine  every  bunch  at  least 
twice  a  week,  and  remove  any  decayed  berries.  Ventilate  the  house  on 
fine  dry  mornings,  and  keep  closed  when  the  weather  is  damp,  but  a 
gentle  warmth  in  the  pipes  is  necessary  to  prevent  the  deposition  of 
moisture  on  the  berries.  It  is  hardly  possible  to  keep  Grapes  in  good 
condition  beneath  leafy  roofs,  or  even  in  the  best  structures  can  the  Grapes 
