68 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTTOULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
January  20,  1898, 
potting  must  be  avoided,  leaving  the  top  of  the  norm,  whence  the  flowers 
and  leaves  proceed,  above  the  surface.  Cyclamens  are  particularly 
subject  to  injury  from  green  fly,  red  spider,  thrijis,  and  those  ])ests  should 
be  frequently  looked  for.  The  after  cultivation  consists  chiefly  in  keejiing 
the  plants  in  a  light  plae  close  to  the  glass,  admitting  plenty  of  air  but 
avoiding  draughts. — .1.  II.  C.  S.,  North  Wales, 
Fungus  Pests. 
The  worst  pests  that  a  gardener-  has  to  contend  with  in  eradication 
are,  in  my  opinion,  the  fungus  pests.  Ked  spider,  Vhrips,  and  mealy  bng 
are  at  times  difflcult  to  got  rid  of,  I  own,  though,  as  a  rule,  they  are 
successfully  dealt  with  by  syringing  or  sponging  ;  but  when  we  have 
fungoid  enemies  to  contend  with  greater  anxiety  is  entailed. 
I  think  the  most  devastating  invasion  is  that  of  the  mildew  which 
attacks  Vines.  This  pest  is  so  ravenous,  as  it  were,  in  its  attack,  that 
unless  speedily  checked  it  soon  destroys  a  whole  crop  of  Grapes.  It 
appears  generally  as  very  fine  dust  in  patches,  but  when  subjected  to 
microscopic  examination  it  presents  a.  very  different  appearance.  A 
rather  high  power  is  needed  to  define  the  separate  parts  of  this  fungus. 
It  appears  to  be  a  collection  of  tiny  plants,  each  complete  in  itself  for  the 
carrying  out  of  its  life’s  function.  How  astonishing  it  is  that  such  tiny 
atoms  should  be  endowed  with  such  destructive  power. 
The  rate  at  which  mildew  spreads  is  astonishing.  We  may  see  only  a 
small  patch  one  day,  but  a  few  days  afterwards,  if  left  to  itself,  it  will 
have  made  such  progress  as  to  have  almost  covered  a  house  of  Vines. 
Such  a  case  I  have  in  my  mind  now.  Vet  when  we  remember  that 
mildew  is  a  great  spore-producing  plant,  and  that  millions  of  spores 
when  ripe  float  in  the  air,  and  are  carried  to  different  parts  till  a 
favourable  spot  is  offered  them  for  germination,  we  need  not  be 
surprised  by  the  infestations. 
All  young  men  ought  to  know  that  mildews  are  parasitic  plants,  and 
that  some  forms  live  on  the  substances  which  should  benefit  the  Vine.  In 
such  case  the  “host”  has  to  supply  food  for  the  sustenance  of  hundreds, 
and  sometimes  thousands  of  plants,  to  its  own  serious  detriment. 
Many  and’varied  are  the  opinions  given  as  to  the  inciting  cause  of 
mildew  visitation.  Some  gardeners  attribute  it  to  dryness  at  the  roots, 
others  to  stagnation  of  the  soil,  and  still  others  to  sharp  chilling  currents  of 
air.  It  is  prudent,  therefore,  to  avoid,  as  far  as  possible,  all  these 
contingencies. 
1  am  of  opinion  that  the  tiny  spores  travel  great  distances  in  the 
air,  and  are  thus  brought  (in  many  instances)  into  contact  with  favour¬ 
able  mediums  for  germination.  Ghrysanthemums  and  Hoses  are  often 
seriously  infested  with  mildew,  and  often  with  disastrous  consequences. 
In  the  case  of  Chrysanthemums  the  under  surface  of  the  leaves  is  usually 
attacked  first,  as  though  the  enemy  wished  to  get  well  established  before 
being  noticed,  and  where  better  protected  against  remedies  ajijilied  for 
its  destruction.  I  know  of  no  better  mildew  destroyer  on  these  plants 
than  flowers  of  sulphur  dusted  over  the  affected  parts. 
A  method  I  have  seen  adopted  in  vineries  where  mildew  was  prevalent 
was  the  placing  of  a  small  lump  of  fresh  lime  in  a  24-size  pot  (the 
number  of  jiots  being  determined  by  the  size  of  the  house),  then  damping 
it  and  sprinkling  it  with  a  little  sulphur.  Of  course  by  damping  the  lime 
it  became  hot,  which  caiised  the  fumes  of  the  suli>hiir  to  rise,  and  I  can 
say  it  proved  very  effectual.  This  method  is  less  unsightly  than  painting 
the  pipes,  which  in  many  cases  is  resorted  to 
There  are  other  minute  fungi  that  play  pranks  with  some  of  our  most 
useful  plants  which  will  serve  for  a  future  article  should  this  be  inserted. 
I  think  young  gardeners  ought  to  study  the  minute  forms  of  parasitic  life 
with  the  aid  of  a  microscope. — Aspirant. 
TRADE  CATALOGUES  RECEIVED. 
Austin  &  McAslan,  Glasgow. — Seeds. 
W.  Clibran  &  Son,  Altrincham.— (S'ecds. 
W.  Cutbush  &  Son,  Highgate.—  Seeds. 
M.  Cuthbertson,  Rothesay. — Seeds  and  Plants. 
Dicksons  «k  Co.,  Waterloo  Place,  Edinburgh. — Seeds. 
W.  Fell  &  Co.,  Hexham. — Seeds. 
W.  B.  Hartland,  Cork. — Seeds. 
Hogg  &  Robertson,  Mary  Street,  Dublin.— /S'ecds. 
Keiway  &  Son,  Langport. — Gardening  Manual. 
A,  Lister  &  Son,  Rothesay. — Florists'  Flowers. 
S.  F.  Richards,  Ossett. — Chrysanthemums. 
J.  Sharpe  &  Son,  Bardney. — Seeds. 
B.  Soddy,  24.3,  Walworth  Road,  Imndon. — Seeds. 
E.  Sydenham,  Birmingham. —  Seeds. 
T.  S.  W’^are,  Hale  Farm  Nurseries,  Tottenham. — Seeds. 
GARDENERS’  CHARITABLE  AND  PROVIDENT 
INSTITUTIONS. 
The  Gardeners’  Royal  Benevolent  Institution. — Secretary, 
klr.  G.  J.  Ingram,  50,  Parliament  Street,  London,  W.C. 
United  Horticultural  Benefit  and  Provident  Society.— 
Secretai'y,  Mr.  W.  Collins,  9,  Martindale  Road,  Balham,  London,  S.W. 
Royal  Gardeners’  Orphan  Fund,— <S'ecre/ci.»-r,  Mr.  A.  F.  Barron. 
The  Royal  Gardeners’  Orphan  Fund,  Chiswick,  W. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cherry  House. — No  fruit  tree  dislikes  a  close  stagnant  atmosphere 
more  than  the  Cherry,  therefore  ventilate  early  and  increase  the  amount 
of  air  with  the  advancing  day.  Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  40°,  no 
more,  hy  artificial  rueans  in  severe  weather,  45°  by  day  when  dull  and 
cold,  50°  on  mild  or  sunny  days,  ventilating  at  50°,  and  allowing  an 
advance  to  60°  or  65°  from  sun  heat  with  full  ventilation,  closing  at  50°, 
Syringe  the  house  and  trees  in  the  morning  and  afternoon  when  the 
weather  is  bright,  damping  occasionally  in  dull.  Trees  in  pots  must  have 
the  necessary  care  in  watering. 
Cucumbers. — Young  plants  must  be  shifted  into  larger  pots  when  thej' 
require  more  room,  keeping  them  near  the  glass,  and  putting  a  stick  to 
those  required  for  trellis  work.  Winter  fruiting  plants  will  need  surface 
dressings  occasionally  to  keep  them  healthy,  and  any  that  exhibit  signs  of 
exhaustion  will  be  assisted  by  fresh  material  supplied  in  place  of  as  much  of 
the  surface  soil  as  can  be  removed  without  injury  to  the  roots, 
using  turfy  loam  and  a  fourth  of  well-decayed  manure,  sprinkling  a  little 
fertiliser  on  the  top.  Such  surface  dressings  incite  the  emission  of  roots, 
and  when  these  are  plentiful  the  plants  can  be  invigorated  by  copious 
supplies  of  liquid  manure.  Keep  the  growths  tied  to  the  trellis,  cut  out 
exhausted  parts,  and  tie  in  young  shoots  so  as  to  maintain  a  succession 
of  bearing  wood,  and  consequently  of  iruit.  Afford  each  growth  space  for 
development,  all  the  foliage  full  exposure  to  light,  and  above  all  avoid 
overcropping. 
Iffelons.— Plants  raised  early  in  the  month  are  in  the  second  leaf,  and 
root  action  proceeding  rapidly  ;  therefore  attend  to  earthing,  and  where  the 
small  pots  are  occupied  with  roots,  either  turn  the  plant  into  the  fruiting 
quarters  or  transfer  to  the  next  larger  size  of  pot,  for  stunted,  root- 
bound  plants  never  do  any  good.  Plunge  in  bottom  heat  near  the  glass,  a 
temperature  of  75°  to  80°  being  sufficient,  placing  a  stick  to  each  plant 
for  its  support  till  reaching  the  trellis.  Plants  for  pits  and  frames  can 
be  stopped  at  the  second  rough  leaf. 
Soil  for  Melons. — Heavy  loam  suits  Melons,  the  top  3  inches  of  a 
|T<isture  cut  and  stacked  in  the  autumn,  chopped  up  moderately  small, 
being  the  most  suitable.  An  addition  of  manure  can  be  made  as  desired, 
also  of  lime  rubbish  and  road  scrapings,  when  there  is  a  deficiency'  of 
calcareous  matter  or  of  grit.  If  there  is  a  suspicion  of  eelworm,  scald 
with  boiling  water  ;  it  kills  these  and  all  other  pests  that  feed  on  the 
Melons,  either  at  the  roots  or  on  the  tops.  We  have  found  this  simple 
precaution  very  satisfactory. 
Plantiny  in  Pits  and  Frames. — The  bed  must  be  made  up  about  a 
week  in  advance  of  the  stock  being  fit  to  plant  out,  employing  thoroughly 
sweetened  materials,  put  together  compactly.  Place  a  barrowful  of  soil 
in  the  centre  of  each  light,  flatten  the  top,  this  being  about  9  inphes  from 
the  glass,  and  the  sod  10  inches  deep.  When  warmed  through  place 
a  plant  in  the  centre  of  each  hillock,  press  the  soil  firmly  around  the 
roots,  keeping  about  half  an  inch  below  the  seed  leaves,  and  having  the 
soil  in  the  bed  and  pot  moist,  to  prevent  the  need  of  water  at  planting. 
A  circle  of  quicklime  or  dry  soot  drawn  around  each  plant  a  little  way 
from  the  stem  will  absorb  superfluous  moisture  and  be  a  barrier  against 
slugs. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Forced  Trees. — Continue  the  ferti¬ 
lising  of  the  flowers  as  succeeding  ones  expand  and  the  pollen  becomes 
ripe,  distributing  it  over  the  stigmas,  which  is  more  effectual  than  shaking 
the  trellis.  Syringing  may  be  resorted  to  both  morning  and  afternoon 
when  the  fruit  is  well  set,  but  in  dull  weather  damping  will  be  sufficient, 
and  in  cold  weather  syringe  sufficiently  early  to  allow  the  foliage  to 
become  dry  some  time  before  nightfall.  This  is  important,  for  keeping 
the  trees  constantly  dripping  with  water  encourages  solt  growth,  is 
inimical  to  the  leaves  and  swelling  of  the  fruit,  besides  inducing  gum. 
Water  used  for  syringing  must  be  of  the  same  temperature  as  the  house. 
Ascertain  the  condition  of  inside  borders,  and  where  necessary  afford  a 
proper  supply  of  water.  Disbud  very  carefully  at  this  early  season, 
removing  a  few  growths  daily  from  a  tree  preferably  to  many  at  distant 
intervals.  The  latter  practice  gives  a  check  to  the  roots,  and  promotes 
wood  growth  at  the  expense  ol  the  fruit,  which  for  lack  of  assimilated 
matter  often  falls  at  this  juncture  in  consequence  of  sap  congestion. 
Maintain  the  night  temperature  at  55°,  60°  on  mild  nights,  60°  to  65°  by 
day  artificially,  5°  less  on  those  figures  when  the  weather  is  severe  and 
dull.  Ventilate  early,  admitting  a  little  air  at  65°,  not  allowing  an 
advance  over  70°  without  full  ventilation,  closing  at  65°,  always  excepting 
a  small  space  at  the  top  of  the  house  left  constantly  ;  this  prevents  a 
vitiated  atmosphere,  and  secures  a  healthy  condition  in  the  leaves,  which 
enables  them  to  do  better  and  more  work  in  the  daytime. 
Second  Early  Forced  Houses. — Trees  started  at  the  beginning  of  the 
month  are  expanding  their  flowers,  and  before  they  open  it  is  well  to 
make  a  close  scrutiny  of  the  trees,  and  if  any  aphides  are  found  fumi¬ 
gate  to  exterminate  the  pests.  Great  care  is  necessary  in  fumigating,  as 
the  organs  of  fructification  are  easily  and  irreparably  injnred.  Moderate 
fumigation  or  vapourisation  on  two  or  three  consecutive  evenings  will  be 
sufficient,  for  keeping  insects  in  check  until  the  fruit  is  set.  Where  there 
