90 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
January  ‘27,  1898. 
the  seeds  are  properly  cared  for.  Such  plants,  however,  are  unhealthy, 
and  the  leaves  in  a  measure  blanched,  showing  that  the  production  of  the 
chlorophyll  or  green  colouring  matter  had  been  prevented  or  interfered 
with.  ]\rost  vegetables,  instead  of  bending  towards  a  red  light,  as  they 
do  towards  a  white  one,  bend  from  it  in  a  very  remarkable  manner. 
Plants  in  flower  can  be  preserved  for  a  much  longer  time  under  the 
in^uence  of  red  light  than  any  other,  and  scientists  opine  that  red  media 
are  of  great  benefit  during  the  fruiting  of  plants.  Blue  glass  has  the 
power  of  altering  the  free  passage  of  all  chemical  rays,  whilst  it  obstructs 
both  the  heat  and  light  radiations.  The  rays  separated  from  these  latter 
have  the  power  of  accelerating  in  a  marked  degree  the  germination  of 
seed  and  subsequent  growth  of  the  plant.  In  fact  they  become  too 
stimulating.  This  being  discovered,  plants  removed  into  yellow  rays,  or, 
better  still,  into  light  which  has  passed  through  a  green  glass,  were  found 
to  deposit  more  carbon,  and  consequently  formed  woody  fibre  in  a  regular 
and  proper  way. 
Thus  it  follows  from  these  evidences  and  like  results  that  the 
germination  of  seeds  in  spring,  the  flowering  of  plants  in  summer,  and 
the  ripening  of  fruits  in  autumn,  are  dependant  upon  the  variations  in  the 
quantities  of  actinism  or  chemical  influence  of  light  and  heat,  at  those 
seasons,  in  the  solar  beams. — Wm.  Norman  Brown. 
MILDNESS  OF  THE  SEASON  IN  SCOTLAND. 
Nature  is  at  present  in  an  unusually  mild  and  amiable  mood.  The 
winter  has  been  one  of  quite  exceptional  geniality,  and  plants  of  every 
kind  in  South-Western  Scotland  are  in  a  very  advanced  condition.  Should 
existing  atmospheric  influences  continue  to  prevail  without  any  intervening 
visitations  of  frost,  fruit  trees  are  likely  to  have  an  abundance  of  blossom, 
especially  as — partly  owing  to  the  destructive  storm  in  .Tune  of  last  year 
— they  have  had  an  exceptionally  long  period  of  repose.  At  the  present 
moment  the  horticulturist  has  reason  for  self-congratulation,  but  it  is 
much  too  soon  for  confident  hope,  which  becomes  not  seldom  during  the 
early  months  of  spring  “near  neighbour  to  despair.’’ 
Though  the  Snowdrop  appears  to  lie  somewhat  late  with  Mr.  S. 
Arnott  this  season,  it  has  bloomed  in  my  garden  quite  as  early  as  usual, 
if  not  indeed  somewhat  earlier  than  it  came  last  year.  During  the  dreary 
period  that  has  intervened  since  the  latest  variety  of  the  hardy  Chrys¬ 
anthemums  disappeared  from  our  vision  my  chief  consolation  has  been 
Jasmimim  nudiflorum,  one  of  the  sweetest  and  gentlest,  notwithstanding 
its  heroism,  of  winter  flowers,  and  it  is  still  flowering  exquisitely,  with 
the  Snowdrop  at  its  feet,  on  a  sheltered  north  wall.  The  most  attractive 
flower  on  the  south  wall  of  my  garden,  where  it  is  at  present  growing 
with  great  rapidity,  and  will  ere  long  be  unfolding  its  tenderly  beautiful. 
Snapdragon-like,  miniature  flowers,  is  Linaria  cymbalaria  ;  of  which, 
in  his  comprehensive  work  on  “The  Natural  History  of  Plants,”  Herr 
Anton  Kerner  von  Merilann  has  expressively  said  :  “It  raises  its  flower- 
stalks  from  the  stone  wall  over  which  it  creeps  towards  the  light ;  but 
as  soon  as  fertilisation  has  taken  nlace,  these  same  stalks,  and  amid 
unchanged  external  conditions,  curve  in  the  opposite  direction,  so  as  to 
deposit  their  seeds  in  a  da-k  crevice.”  Notwithstanding  its  peculiarly 
refined  and  fragile  aspect,  few  flowers  have  such  a  strong  constitution  as 
this.  Equally  remarkable  is  its  rapidity  of  growth. 
Almost  for  the  first  time  within  the  range  of  my  remembrance  I  have 
fragrant  Auriculas  at  present  in  bloom.  It  is  seldom  indeed  that  their 
flowers  appear  in  my  garden  before  the  month  of  April,  of  which  it  is 
undoubtedly,  especially  in  the  matter  of  fragrance,  the  predominating 
attraction.  Prunus  Pissardi  is  forming  its  flower  buds,  and  signs  of 
activity  are  visible  along  the  branches  of  the  Almond  tree.  Andromeda 
floribunda,  whose  classical  name  was  conferred  upon  it  by  the  great 
Linnmus,  and  which  belongs  to  the  Ericaceous  family  or  order  of  plants, 
will  soon  be  in  flower.  Rose  trees,  inspired  by  the  mildness  of  the  season, 
are  throwing  out  prematurely  their  graceful  shoots  crowned  with  buds 
that  will  never  develop  into  their  possibilities  of  beauty  for  lack  of  the 
generative  influence  of  the  sun.  As  an  accomplished  rosarian  said  to 
me  in  one  of  his  letters,  written  during  a  very  similar  season,  “  Like 
naught)"  children,  they  will  not  go  to  sleep.’’  It  would  be  better  for 
themselves,  in  all  probability,  if  they  sought  repose. — David  B. 
Williamson. 
F.H.H.S.  AND  SO  FORTH. 
Am  I  as  a  Fellow  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  entitled  to  place 
these  initials  as  an  affix  to  my  name,  or  not  ?  That  is  the  question. 
Those  who  are  recipients  of  the  medal  of  honour  may  use  the  initials 
V.M.H.,  but  they  must  do  it  in  fear  and  tremlfling,  lest  they  incur 
anathema,  or  reprimand.  But  how  stands  it  with  theE.R.H.S.  ?  I 
have  been  induced  to  ask  this  question  because  I  could  but  notice,  when 
looking  over,  as  published  in  your  columns,  the  lists  of  the  new  Committee.^ 
of  the  R.H.S.,  that  whilst  nearly  every  memljer  of  that  very  learned 
body,  the  Scientific  Committee — there  are  thirty-four  of  them — has  the 
initials  of  some  society  after  his  name,  not  one,  even  the  undecorated, 
has  F.R.H.S.  Are  these  learned  societies’  fellowships  so  very  dignified 
that  they  are  thus  paraded,  or  are  those  of  the  R.H.S.  so  much  the 
reverse  that  they  are  not  so  employed  ?  Possibly  it  may  be  said  that  as  the 
Committees  are  those  of  the  R.H.S,,  and  as  only  Fellows  are  eligible  to  be 
members  of  these  Committees,  to  attach  F.R  H.S.  after  each  name  would 
be  superfluous.  That  may  be  so,  but  where  some  initials  are  so  paraded 
why  not  others  1 
What  is  so  curious,  too,  is  that  whilst  fellowships  of  three  Societies 
only  are  recognised,  yet  affixes  quite  as  honourable,  not  even  the  V.M.H., 
are  attached  to  any  member  of  the  other  four  Committees.  That  is  more 
than  curious— it  is  funny.  However,  to  revert  to  the  question  raised 
above.  1  notice  in  one  case  of  a  Fellow  that  his  chief  local  paper  dubs 
him  F.R.H.S.  under  all  circumstances.  May  that  be  regarded  as  O.K., 
or,  as  translated  by  Justice  Ridley  “all  correct  ?”  I  feel  an  interest  in 
knowing,  and  my  interest — originally  whetted  by  a  recent  pronouncement 
with  respect  to  the  use  of  V.^I.H.— is  doubly  so  by  the  publication  in 
your  columns  of  these  wondrous  scientific  fellowships  and  the  absence  of 
the  horticultural  ones.  Is  it  no  honour  to  be  identified  with  horticulture, 
and  is  the  old  art  on  the  down  grade  after  all  ? — A  Fellow. 
[This  “Fellow”  may  compose  himself.  Horticulture  is  in  the 
ascendant,  and  for  the  first  time  in  history  is  used  as  a  flag,  in  the  form 
of  large  posters,  under  which  distinguished  botanists  and  scientists,  who 
are  not  horticulturists,  are  sailing  on  their  lecturing  voyages.  This 
admission  of  the  attractive  power  and  influence  of  horticulture  is 
significant,  and  our  friend  ought  to  rejoice  in  the  compliment  thus  paid 
to  the  ancient  art  to  which  he  is  devoted.] 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Gladiolus  the  Bride. 
These,  like  so  many  other  bulbous  plants,  are  easy  to  grow,  and 
desirable  in  every  respect  ;  and  where  cut  flowers  are  in  demand  they 
should  be  found  in  quantity,  as  they  well  repay  the  care  and  attention 
that  must  be  afforded  them.  The  most  essential  point  to  insure  success 
is  to  have  well-ripened  corms,  for  if  they  are  not  properly  matured  they 
will  flower  indifferently,  and  not  give  satisfaction. 
The  best  mode  of  culture,  which  if  given  a  fair  trial  will  commend 
itself  to  all,  is  the  following  : — Enough  corms  should  be  procured  to  make 
two  successions  of  a  size  according  to  the  requirements  of  the  grower. 
The  earliest  ought  to  be  potted  in  the  autumn,  and  grown  to  produce 
flowers  during  the  following  spring  and  summer  ;  5  and  6-inch  pots, 
clean  and  properly  drained,  are  most  suitable.  If  the  roots  are  the  size 
of  a  shilling,  six  for  the  former  and  nine  for  the  latter  will  be  ample. 
Rot  firmly  an  inch  below  the  surface  in  a  mixture  of  two  parts  sandy 
loam,  one  part  peat,  and  one  part  leaf  mould  and  sand.  Plunge  the  pots 
to  the  rim  in  ashes,  and  water  sparingly  until  they  push  through  the 
soil.  Keep  them  growing  in  a  cool  temperature  until  about  February, 
when  a  few  pots  may  be  introduced  into  an  intermediate  house  at  intervals 
to  make  them  last  over  a  longer  period.  As  soon  as  they  have  done 
blooming  and  show  signs  of  ripening  harden  them,  and  place  the  pots  out 
of  doors  on  their  sides,  gradually  withholding  water  as  the  leaves  ripen. 
Care  should  be  taken  to  protect  them  from  heavy  rains  afterwards,  or  the 
bulbs  will  decay.  When  ripened  they  should  be  shaken  out  and  laid 
thinly  on  a  dry  sunny  shelf  for  a  time,  eventually  storing  them  in  a  cool 
place,  free  from  frost,  until  the  following  March,  when  they  can  be  planted 
as  advised  below. 
The  succession  should  be  planted  in  March,  in  rows  6  inches  asunder 
and  3  deep,  on  a  south  or  west  border,  with  a  deep  well-worked  soil. 
They  are  greatly  benefited  by  frequent  hoeing  and  a  mulch  of  short 
manure.  They  can  be  lilted  in  September,  tied  together  in  bunches,  and 
hung  in  airy  houses  to  become  well  ripened,  and  afterwards  potted  as 
advised  for  the  earliest  corms.  It  will  be  seen  by  the  above  methods  they 
are  grown  in  pots  and  in  the  open  ground  alternate  years,  and  being 
sound  and  well  matured  will  consequently  flower  much  better  than  if 
grown  in  pots,  as  is  often  the  case,  every  year.  It  will  also  be  noted 
that  flowers  can  be  cut  from  those  in  the  open  ground,  and  used  for 
the  various  purposes  for  which  these  lovely  spikes  are  invaluable. 
— Nil  Desperandum. 
SCHIZANTHUS. 
Where  cut  flowers  are  in  constant  demand  a  gardener  has  to  exercise 
judgment  as  to  those  kinds  that  are  best  and  most  useful  for  that  purpose. 
Some  of  our  choicest  flowers  w  ould  prove  an  utter  failure  (though  they 
last  well  on  the  plant)  if  they  were  used  for  vase  work.  Schizanthuses 
are  admirably  adapted  for  cutting,  and  are  not  difficult  to  grow  if  not 
allowed  to  become  drawn  while  in  the  seed  pan, 
A  good  time  to  sow  the  seed  is  about  the  last  week  in  August  when 
the  plants  are  wanted  in  flower  in  the  following  spring.  It  should  be 
sown  thinly  in  well-drained  pans,  using  a  moderately  light  soil.  On  a 
shelf  near  the  roof  of  a  greenhouse  is  a  good  place  to  stand  the  pans 
till  the  seed  have  germinated.  A  sheet  of  paper  may  be  laid  over  them 
for  shade.  As  soon  as  the  young  plants  appear  the  paper  should  be 
removed,  so  that  they  may  have  all  the  light  possible. 
When  the  seedlings  are  large  enough  to  handle  pricking  them  off 
becomes  necessary.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  transfer  them  to  boxes  for  a 
short  time,  after  which  they  may  be  potted  in  small  60’s,  using  a  little 
heavier  soil,  and  keeping  them  in  a  cool  temperature.  About  the  end  of 
January  they  must  be  shifted  into  the  flowering  pots,  care  being  taken  in 
giving  them  good  drainage.  As  a  rule  24-size  pots  are  used,  placing 
four  plants  in  each.  If  32-size  are  used  two  plants  in  each  are  sufficient. 
When  the  plants  begin  to  make  rapid  growth,  as  they  generally  do, 
they  should  be  given  a  stake,  or  they  soon  fall  over,  and  the  growths 
become  cramped.  Schizanthus  never  require  more  than  an  ordinary 
greenhouse  temperature,  and  I  think  if  this  were  more  generally  recog¬ 
nised  they  wouid  be  much  more  largely  grown.  If  the  foregoing 
cultural  notes  prove  a  benefit  to  any  of  my  young  fellow  craftsmen  I  shall 
be  gratified. — Aspirant. 
