January  2t,  1898. 
JOURNAL  OP  HORTICULTURP  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
91 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Pruning  and  Training  Apricots.— During  open  weather  in  the  course 
of  the  next  few  weeks  the  necessary  attention  must  be  given  to  the 
requirements  of  Apricots  on  walls.  The  pruning  out  of*^  old  useless 
branches  or  growths  is  the  first  essential,  next  the  reduction  of  the  young 
shoots,  so  as  to  leave  no  more  than  may  be  accommodated  on  the  wall 
without  crowding.  Those  shoots  not  wanted  may  on  the  lower  side  he 
cut  out  entirely,  on  the  upper  shortened  back  to  form  artificial  spurs. 
There  will  also  be  found  a  number  of  natural  spurs,  all  of  which  must 
be  preserved,  for,  providing  there  are  sufficient  of  these,  artificially 
formed  spurs  are  not  required.  Fruit  is  borne  on  both  these  kind  of 
spurs,  as  well  as  on  young  shoots,  and  the  object  of  pruning  should  be  to 
so  regulate  these  bearing  parts  that  the  wall  may  be  effectually,  but  not 
thickly,  covered.  Young  shoots,  before  being  nailed  in  finally,  ou^ht  to 
be  pruned  to  a  wood  bud  singly  placed,  or  to  one  situated  between  two 
blossom  buds,  termed  a  triple  bud. 
All  the  branches  must  be  displaced  from  the  wall  and  re-arrano-ed 
especially  if  worn  out  parts  have  to  be  removed,  thus  causing  large  vacant 
spaces.  Young  vigorous  shoots  from  near  the  base  ought  to  be  selected 
for  filling  up  the  spaces,  but  if  not  practicable  secure  those  in  the 
most  convenient  positions.  Strong  but  not  sappy  wood  is  the  best  to 
utilise. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines.— These  differ  ilttle  from  Apricots  in 
the  matter  of  pruning,  training,  and  general  management.  There  is  a 
difference,  but  it  lies  chiefly  in  the  freer  utilisation  of  the  young 
ripened  wood  of  the  previous  year,  relying  less  on  either  natural  or 
artificial  spurs. 
It  summer  and  autumn  pruning  were  judiciously  carried  out  at  the 
proper  time,  there  will  not  be  much  superfluous  wood  to  be  removed  now. 
Weakly  or  worn-out  branches  it  is  requisite  to  dispense  with,  and  this 
may  occasion  the  complete  readjustment  of  the  branches.  In  all  cases  it 
is  necessary  to  clear  out  the  old  bearing  wood  of  last  season,  and  if  this 
were  not  cut  out  in  autumn  it  must  be  done  now.  The  best  shoots  for 
retaining  are  those  laid  in  below  the  bearing  shoots  of  the  previous  season. 
They  require  to  be  well  ripened  and  situated  on  the  upper  parts  of  the 
secondary  branches.  If  the  points  are  unripe  or  there  is  not  room  for 
full  length  shoots,  cut  back  to  firm  ripe  parts,  but  to  a  position  where 
triple  buds  are  situated,  or  at  least  to  a  single  wood  bud.  This  is  an 
important  point  in  the  pruning  of  Peaches,  Nectarines,  and  Apricots, 
because  if  a  shoot  capable  of  bearing  fruit  is  pruned  to  blossom  buds  no 
wood  growth  can  extend  beyond  the  fruit,  hence  no  flow  of  sap  is  main¬ 
tained  to  support  the  fruit,  which  consequently  dies. 
In  nailing  in  the  wood,  first  secure  the  principal  branches,  disposing  them 
regularly  over  the  space  at  command,  next  the  secondary  branches,  and 
lastly,  the  young  bearing  shoots,  laying  them  in  evenly  at  a  distance  of 
o  inches  apart.  Avoid  making  shreds  too  tight,  and  placing  nails  so  that 
they  are  liable  to  injure  swelling  shoots. 
1  hough  it  is  desirable  to  have  the  training  completed  before  the  trees 
commence  blossoming,  yet  it  is  advisable  to  delay  the  final  nailing  as  long 
as  possible,  in  order  that  the  expansion  of  the  flowers  may  be  retarded, 
especially  if  mild  weather  prevails. 
Cleansing  Walls  and  Trees — After  the  training  has  been  completed, 
should  the  flowers  not  be  too  advanced  towards  opening,  trees  that  have 
not  been  seriously  affected  with  red  spider  or  scale  during  the  previous 
year,  may  be  effectively  cleansed  by  a  thorough  syringing  with  a  solution 
of  softsoap,  2  ozs.  to  the  gallon  of  water,  with  the  addition  of  a  handful 
of  sulphur  mixed  in.  The  sulphur  will  combine  better  with  the  solution  if 
mixed  into  a  paste  first  with  a  little  water.  The  walls  will  be  cleansed  as 
well  as  the  trees,  but  if  the  mortar  has  fallen  away  from  between  the 
bricks,  fill  the  spaces  up  before  re-arranging  the  trees.  Where  there  is 
any  possibility  of  red  spider  hibernating  on  the  stems,  branches,  or 
shoots,  the  trees  should  be  painted  over  with  a  mixture  of  Gishurst  com¬ 
pound,  6  ozs.  to  the  gallon  of  water  to  which  has  been  added  soot,  clay, 
or  loam,  making  the  mixture  of  the  consistency  of  paint.  Apply  this . 
dressing  with  a  painter’s  brush,  laying  it  on  the  young  shoots  very  care¬ 
fully  from  their  base  to  extremities,  so  as  not  to  dislocate  the  buds. 
Young  Wall  Trees. — Trees  newly  planted  in  autumn,  and  only  loosely 
secured  tor  allowing  the  trees  to  settle  with  the  soil,  may  now  have  the 
pruning  needed,  cutting  back  to  suitable  buds,  the  shoots  regularly 
disposed  and  nailed  in.  Providing  there  are  a  sufficient  number  of  well 
ripened  shoots  to  form  a  good  foundation  of  branches,  unripe  ends  only 
may  be  pruned  away  close  to  wood  buds.  If  there  are  not  the  proper 
number  of  shoots  for  forming  the  main  branches,  prune  lower.  Additional 
shoots  will  thus  bo  originated  of  the  required  strength,  selecting  the  best 
when  extending  to  form  the  branches.  Bold  wood  buds  pointing  in 
the  desired  direction  are  usually  selected  for  pruning  to. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Pines. — The  plants  recently  started  into  fruit  will,  if  in  good  condition 
nt  the  roots,  produce  strong  -suckers.  When  these  are  large  enough  to 
handle,  all,  except  one  to  each  plant,  should  have  the  growths  checked  by 
taking  out  the  centres  of  those  not  wanted.  As  a  supplementary  hatch  to  the 
autumn-potted  plants,  select  others  which  have  been  wintered  in  7  or  8-inch 
pots,  choosing  the  most  vigorous  plants.  The  remainder  of  such  plants 
ought  to  be  reserved  until  the  general  spring  potting,  when  they  should  be 
shaken  out  and  treated  like  suckers.  Provide  fibrous  loam  with  the 
herbage  reduced,  or  if  used  fresh  it  should  be  placed  where  it  will  be 
heated,  so  as  to  kill  the  grass  and  any  contained  larvae,  and  when  torn  up 
add  about  a  pint  of  superphosphate  and  a  similar  quantity  of  soot  to  each 
bushel  of  compost.  If  the  turf  has  been  laid  up  it  must  lie  had  under 
cover  some  little  time  before  using  to  become  dried.  Drain  the  pots 
moderately,  but  efficiently,  dusting  with  wood  ashes  or  soot  to  exclude 
worms,  and  keeping  the  plants  well  down  in  the  pots,  ram  the  soil  firmly 
round  the  roots,  leaving  sufficient  space  for  copious  supplies  of  water 
being  given  when  required.  For  Queens,  10-inch  pots,  and  11  or 
12  inches  are  suitable  for  varieties  of  more  robust  growth.  A  temperature 
of  60°  to  65°  will  be  sufficient  for  these  plants,  also  for  those  potted  last 
autumn,  and  80°  to  85°  at  the  roots. 
Plants  in  beds  about  to  be  started  into  fruit  must  not  have  the  heat  at 
the  base  of  the  pots  over  90°  or  95°,  or  their  roots  will  be  injured.  If 
sufficient  fruit  be  started  to  meet  the  requirements,  later  successional 
plants  may  be  advanced  slowly,  they,  with  autumn-potted  suckers, 
requiring  careful  watering,  especially  where  the  heat  is  supplied  by 
fermenting  materials. 
Strawberries  in  Pots. —The  weather,  though  mild,  has  been  foggy  and 
unfavourable  for  more  than  keeping  the  plants  gently  moving.  Ventilation 
must  be  very  carefully  given  to  plants  in  flower,  setting  or  swelling  the 
fruit,  as  sudden  and  drying  currents  of  cold  air  start  both  the  organs  of 
fructification  and  the  tender  fruits,  and  they  do  little  good  afterwards. 
When  the  air  is  cold  and  sharp  some  hexagon  netting  placed  over  the 
ventilators  admits  of  fresh  air  when  it  could  not  otherwise  be  admitted. 
Plants  in  flower  should  have  air  under  or  above  them,  so  that  it  is 
warmed  before  it  comes  in  contact  with  the  tender  fructifying  organs. 
Have  the  atmosphere  rather  dry  for  a  couple  of  hours  each  day,  so  as  to 
insure  conditions  favourable  for  fertilising  by  a  little  extra  heat  if 
necessary,  with  freer  ventilation.  Fertilisation  is  easily  effected  with  a 
feather  duster,  examining  the  flowers  each  day  until  there  is  a  good 
crop  set,  after  which  remove  all  superfiuous  flowers,  also  surplus  and 
deformed  fruits.  Water  the  plants  in  flower  on  the  mornings  of  fine  days, 
lifting  the  leaves  and  flowers  with  one  hand  so  as  to  avoid  wetting 
them,  and  keeping  the  water  from  the  crown,  as  that  frequently  suffers 
through  the  frequent  application  of  water  and  a  close  atmosphere.  Afford 
liquid  manure  to  plants  swelling  their  crops,  and  maintain  a  genial  con¬ 
dition  of  the  atmosphere  with  a  temperature  of  60°  to  65°,  with  10°  to  ]5° 
rise  from  sun  heat. 
Vines. — Earliest  Forced  in  Pots.  —  These  will  now  require  copious 
supplies  of  liquid  manure,  alwaj’s  tepid  and  never  too  strong.  The 
nourishment  is  required  as  soon  as  the  Vines  have  made  fresh  growths, 
and  then  right  along  to  secure  well  developed  bunches  and  berries. 
When  these  are  set,  thin  somewhat  freely  to  induce  fine  berries,  but  not 
going  to  the  extreme  of  making  the  bunches  loose  ;  compact,  even-berried 
clusters  are  the  most  tempting.  Maintain  the  night  temperature  at  60  to 
65°,  falling  5°  on  cold  nights,  65°  to  70'  on  cold  days,  70°  to  75°  when 
mild  and  dull,  and  on  fine  days  ventilating  at  70^  but  only  a  little, 
increasing  the  air  with  the  sun  heat  to  80  or  85°,  at  which  keep  through 
the  day  from  that  source,  closing  in  good  time  and  so  as  to  run  up  to  9()°, 
then  damping  the  jiaths  and  walls.  Damping  is  also  necessary  in  the 
early  part  of  the  day,  and  in  the  evening  of  fine  days. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Fi/jcs.— Attend  to  tying  the  shoots  and 
stopping  them  one  or  two  joints  be^’ond  the  show  of  fruit  where  space  is 
limited,  the  axillary  growths  or  laterals  below  the  bunch  being  removed, 
except  those  on  the  two  lowest  joints,  which,  with  those  above  the  fruit, 
should  be  stopped  at  the  first  leaf  and  subsequently  as  made.  The 
stopping  is  very  important,  for  allowing  more  growth  to  be  made  than 
there  is  room  for,  and  not  considering  that  a  little  lateral  extension  is 
desirable,  causes  overcrowding,  and  that  is  fatal  to  good  results.  The 
cultivator  must  be  guided  by  circumstances,  and  manipulate  so  that  the 
principal  foliage  be  fully  exposed  to  light.  Very  close  stopping  is  not 
advisable  where  there  is  room  for  extension,  the  increased  foliage  pro¬ 
moting  corresponding  root  action,  and  the  elaborating  power  is  enlarged  ; 
therefore,  make  provision  for  an  increase  of  growth,  and  retain  all  the 
foliage  consistent  with  its  full  exposure  to  light  and  air.  Maintain  a 
temperature  of  65’ at  night,  and  5' more  for  Muscats  where  the  Grapes 
are  in  flower. 
Buckland  Sweetwater,  and  others  that  do  not  set  the  berries  freely, 
should  be  brushed  over  with  a  large  camel’s-hair  brush  or  brush  of 
feathers.  This  is  essential  for  Muscats,  assisting  fertilisation  by  shaking 
the  rods  daily,  or  dusting  the  bunches  (after  brushing  them)  with  pollen 
taken  from  varieties  that  afford  it  freely,  and  this,  applied  to  the  stigmas, 
usually  results  in  a  good  set,  especially  if  accompanied  by  a  circulation  of 
rather  dry,  warm  air.  Commence  thinning  when  the  berries  are  about 
the  size  of  small  peas,  it  then  being  seen  which  berries  are  fertilised  by 
their  taking  the  lead  in  swelling.  Ventilate  carefully,  a  little  at  a  time, 
so  as  not  to  reduce  the  temperature,  only  to  prevent  its  rising  too 
suddenly  and  too  high.  Maintain  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere 
after  the  Grapes  are  set  by  damping  the  paths  and  borders  in  the 
morning  and  at  closing  time.  Water  inside  borders  as  required  with 
tepid  liquid  manure  not  less  in  temperature  than  the  house. 
Vines  Started  at  the  New  Year. — The  buds  are  moving  both  evenly 
and  strongly.  Continue  syringing  the  Vines  twice  a  day  until  the  bunches 
form,  then  discontinue  it ;  maintain  the  atmospheie  afterwards  in  a  geniaj 
condition  by  damping  instead  two  or  three  times  *  day.  Avoid  syringing 
hot-water  pipes  when  highly  heated,  the  vapour  being  different  from  the 
