112 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTTGULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
Februar}'  3,  1898, 
WOKK.F0R.THE  W  E  EK. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — Young  plants  are  now  ready  for  transferring  to  the 
hillocks  in  the  Cucumber  house,  it  having  been  thoroughly  cleaned,  and 
the  soil  placed  in  a  few  days  previously  to  become  warmed.  Press  the 
soil  firmly  about  each  plant,  place  a  stick  to  each,  and  secure  it  to  the 
front  wire  of  the  trellis.  If  bright  sunshine  occur,  shade  lightly  in  the 
middle  of  the  day  to  prevent  flagging,  and  after  the  plants  become 
established  it  can  be  discontinued,  subjecting  the  plants  to  the  full 
influence  of  the  sun.  Keep  the  night  temperature  at  65°,  falling  to  60° 
on  cold  and  rising  to  70°  on  mild  nights,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day,  with  80° 
to  90°  from  sun  heat,  closing  early  in  the  afternoon,  with  plenty  of 
atmospheric  moisture  on  fine  days. 
Winter  CucumVters,  or  plants  in  bearing,  will  require  copious  supplies 
of  liquid  manure  in  a  tepid  state,  affording  occasional  top- dressings  of 
sweetened  horse  droppings  and  a  sprinkling  of  soot.  The  advertised 
fertilisers  are  also  excellent  for  top-dressing,  supplying  a  little  fresh  loam 
as  a  rooting  medium,  an  abundance  of  roots  being  necessary  for  imbibing 
food.  Crop  lightly,  and  keep  the  plants  free  from  insect  and  fungal 
pests.  Avoid  overcrowding  ;  let  the  foliage  have  full  exposure  to  light ; 
remove  bad  leaves  and  exhausted  growths,  stopping  others  one  or  two 
joints  beyond  the  fruit  as  space  allows,  and  maintain  a  supply  of  young 
growths  for  successional  bearing. 
Cover  manure  frames  with  double  mats  at  night,  the  linings  of  the 
beds  being  attended  to  weekly  or  fortnightly,  according  to  the  state  of  the 
weather,  keeping  a  supply  of  stable  litter  and  leaves  in  readiness  for 
that  purpose. 
Cherry  House. — The  Cherry  is  impatient  of  fire  heat  in  the  early 
stages  of  growth,  and  requires  abundance  of  air.  This  is  an  important 
matter  ;  therefore,  commence  ventilating  at  50°,  allowing  an  increase  to 
65°  with  proportionate  ventilation,  closing  the  house  at  50°,  45°  being 
sufficient  by  day  artificially  and  40°  at  night.  The  trees  advancing 
slowly  from  the  end  of  last  or  beginning  of  this  year  are  now  rapidly 
unfolding  their  buds,  those  previously  forced  coming  into  blossom,  and 
will  soon  need  attention  in  fertilising  the  flowers  on  fine  days,  using  a 
camel’s-hair  brush,  rabbit’s  tail  mounted  on  a  stick,  or  a  bunch  of  feathers. 
Where  the  flowers  are  not  expanded  it  is  well  to  fumigate  the  house  with 
tobacco  or  vapourise  with  nicotine,  so  as  to  make  sure  that  the  trees  are 
free  from  aphides,  repeating  at  intervals  of  a  day  or  two  once  or  twice. 
The  borders  must  not  be  neglected  for  water,  giving  a  thorough,  but  not 
an  over  supply,  as  necessary'.  Trees  in  pots — a  very  desirable  mode  of 
securing  early  Cherries — will  require  moie  frequent  attention. 
Melons. — The  early  raised  ])lants  will  now  be  ready  for  planting  out, 
and  require  similar  treatment  to  Cucumbers.  F.xcellent  Melons  are 
grown  in  pits,  with  hot  water  pipes  for  top  heat,  and  the  bottom  heat 
furnished  by  fermenting  materials.  Stalde  litter  and  an  equal  proportion 
of  Beech  or  Oak  leaves  should  be  thrown  together  about  a  fortnight 
before  they  are  required,  thoroughly  incorporating  them,  and  if  dry  they 
should  be  moistened.  In  a  few  days  it  will  be  seen  whether  there  is 
moisture  enough  to  produce  fermentation  ;  if  so,  turn  the  materials,  before 
violent  heat  is  produced,  outside  to  inside,  and  damping  any  dry  materials ; 
but  if  the  heat  does  not  generate  quickly,  the  material  must  be  turned 
after  a  few  days,  and  receive  water  as  re(iuired. 
In  making  hotbeds  for  frames — still  a  very  desirable  means  of  growing 
high  class  Melons — always  select  a  dry  site  or  employ  a  good  layer  of 
faggots  for  the  foundation,  taking  care  tfi  make  the  bed  large  enough  for 
the  season  ;  5  feet  high  at  the  back  and  4  feet  in  the  front,  with  the 
material  well  beaten  down,  will  not  be  too  high.  Place  the  frame  on  the 
bed,  and  in  four  or  five  days  level  the  surface  by  adding  the  requisite 
quantity  of  fresh  material,  and  ])lace  in  the  centre  of  each  light  about 
a  barrowful  of  soil  in  the  form  of  a  flattened  cone,  the  top  about  1  foot 
from  the  glass.  When  the  heat  does  not  exceed  85°  to  90°  place  out  a 
plant  in  the  centre  of  each  mound,  pressing  the  soil  firmly  around  the 
ball,  taking  care  not  to  injure  the  stem,  and  a  little  dry  soot  drawn  in  a 
ring  round  each  plant  will  protect  it  from  slugs. 
The  day  temperature  in  either  houses,  pits,  or  frames  should  be  70°, 
80’  to  90°  from  sun  heat,  losing  no  opportunity  of  admitting  a  little  air, 
especially  in  frames,  to  allow  of  the  escai)e  of  rank  steam  or  accumulated 
moisture,  but  in  no  case  must  the  air  be  admitted  so  as  to  lower  the 
temperature  below  70°.  The  night  temperature  should  be  65°,  5°  less  on 
cold  nights  and  5°  more  when  mild  weather  prevails.  Instead  of  planting 
out  too  soon  shift  into  larger  pots  as  required,  plunging  in  a  bottom 
heat  of  80°,  securing  the  stems  to  small  stakes,  and  rubbing  off  the 
laterals  to  the  height  of  the  bottom  wire  of  the  trellis.  Plants  for  pits 
and  frames  should  be  stopped  at  the  second  rough  leaf. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines.  —Earliest  Forced  House.— maintenance  of 
a  comparatively  low  night  temperature  and  a  steady  heat  by  day  are 
essentials  of  safe  advancement,  and  attention  to  fertilising  the  flowers, 
especially  that  of  crossing,  where  there  is  a  deficiency  of  pollen  for 
securing  a  good  set  of  fruit.  In  the  case  of  late  varieties  still  in  flower 
they  may  have  the  camel’ s-hair  brush,  or  other  lUeans  of  distributing  the 
pollen,  passed  over  them,  keeping  the  house  moderately  dry  with  a 
circulation  of  air  until  the  petals  commence  fading,  when  a  slight  syringing 
with  tepid  soft  water  will  soon  bring  off  the  remains  of  the  floral  parts. 
Inside  l)orders  are  a  great  advantage  in  early  forcing,  the  trees  always 
succeeding  better  than  when  the  roots  are  in  cold  outside  ones,  and  the 
fruit  sets  better  in  a  lower  temi)erature  under  those  circumstances.  Lost 
time  (apparently)  can  be  made  uj)  as  the  days  lengthen  and  brighten  ; 
undue  haste  in  early  forcing  often  causes  the  loss  of  the  crop. 
Proceed  cautiously  with  dislmdding,  also  shorten  shoots  that  were 
left  at  full  length  at  i)runing  time  if  the  setting  is  not  good  at  the  points. 
Remove  the  foreright  shoots  first,  commencing  at  the  most  upright  part 
of  the  trees,  and  work  down  to  the  horizontal  branches  at  the  base.  Keep 
a  sharp  look  out  for  aphides,  and  fumigate  upon  their  first  appearance. 
Be  careful,  however,  not  to  give  too  much,  as  the  foliage  and  tender  fruit 
are  very  susceptible  of  injury.  See  that  all  surfaces  near  hot-water  pipes 
are  kept  constantly  moist,  and  that  the  roots  of  the  trees  are  well  supplied 
with  water  or  liquid  manure  in  a  tepid  or  weak  state.  Avoid,  however, 
over-excitement  in  the  early  stages  of  swelling,  which  is  often  fatal  to 
stoning.  Admit  a  little  air  on  all  favourable  occasions,  but  be  careful  to 
avoid  cold  currents,  and  close  sufficiently  early  to  raise  the  temperature  . 
a  little,  or  maintain  a  good  heat  for  some  time  after  closing,  there  not 
being  anything  like  sun  heat,  avoiding  a  close  atmosphere  by  a  little 
ventilation  constantly. 
Succession  Homes. — When  the  trees  are  approaching  the  flowering 
stage  syringing  must  be  discontinued,  but  secure  a  genial  condition  of  the 
atmosphere  by  damping  the  house  occasionally.  In  other  cases  syringe 
in  the  morning  and  afternoon  until  the  flowers  commence  opening,  and  in 
case  of  a  great  show  of  flowers  remove  those  on  the  under  side  of  the 
trellis.  Do  not  omit  to  fumigate  on  a  calm  afternoon  to  destroy  aphides 
that  may  exist  ;  they  hybernate  in  the  eggs  and  emerge  about  the 
time  the  trees  burst  into  flower  and  leaf.  Brown  aphis,  however,  lives  on 
the  young  wood  through  the  winter,  and  patches  of  it  should  be  treated 
with  tobacco  water  or  other  insecticide,  sparing  no  effort  to  keep  the  trees 
free  from  these  pests  until  the  flowering  is  over  ;  then  they  can  easily  be 
kept  under  by  approved  means,  not  so  whilst  in  flower.  If  inside  borders 
be  dry  afford  a  thorough  supply  of  water  or  liquid  manure  in  the  case  of 
weakness  in  the  trees. 
Later  Houses. — The  mild  weather  has  not  made  much  difference  in  the 
trees,  they  appearing  to  take  what  they  are  always  the  better  for — 
namely,  a  period  of  apparently  complete  rest.  Avoid  dryness  at  the 
roots,  affording  thorough  supplies  of  water  or  liquid  manure,  not,  how¬ 
ever,  making  the  soil  sodden  by  needless  applications.  Where  the  roof 
lights  have  been  removed  the  borders  will  have  been  well  moistened  by 
the  recent  rains.  Ventilation  will  be  necessary  to  the  fullest  extent,  so 
as  to  keep  back  the  blossoms,  and  the  roof  lights  should  remain  off  until 
the  flowers  are  emerging  from  their  scaly  covering,  and  not  then  safe 
from  frost. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Broad  Beans. — When  the  ground  is  very  cold  and  wet  seed  sown 
before  the  second  week  in  February  is  liable  to  fail.  This  season,  uj)  to 
the  time  these  hints  were  penned,  the  weather  has  been  singularly  mild, 
and  the  ground,  as  a  rule,  is  neither  so  cold  nor  wet  as  usual.  If, 
therefore,  it  is  still  in  a  favourable  condition,  seed  may  well  be  got  in  at 
once.  If  extra  early  crops  are  desired,  and  the  space  can  be  afforded, 
sow  on  a  sunny  border,  previously  manured  and  dug.  Rows  sown  at  the 
same  time  in  the  oi)en  quarters  will  only  be  a  few  days  later.  The  Early 
Longpod  type  crops  heavily  and  ought  to  be  sown  now,  and  with  these 
Beck’s  Dwarf  Green  Gem,  the  best  in  point  of  quality. 
Early  Peas. — The  remarks  upon  early  sowing  in  the  case  of  Beans 
also  apply  to  early  Reas.  Only  the  nearly  or  quite  round-seeded  varieties 
should  be  sown  thus  early,  as  we  may  yet  have  severe  frosts,  snow,  and 
cold  rain.  If  the  ground  cannot  be  got  into  a  finely  divided  state  it 
should  be  chopped  to  pieces  as  much  as  possible,  the  two-tined 
Canterbury  hoe  proving  a  good  tool  for  the  purpose.  Sow  the  seed 
rather  thickly,  allowing  for  some  failures,  and  cover  with  2  inches  of 
fine  soil. 
Peas  without  Stakes. — Stakes  are  not  indispensable  in  gardens,  and  are 
rarely  used  in  the  open  fields.  Any  dwarf  or  medium  height  variety  will 
succeed  well  in  a  garden,  and  under  field  culture  stakes  are  not  required 
for  such  tall-growing  varieties  as  Telephone  and  Duke  of  Albany,  If 
this  plan  of  growing  Reas  is  adopted  the  seed  should  be  sown  in  a  single 
narrow  line,  much  as  Broad  Beans  are  sown,  and  the  drills  ought  to  be 
from  2  feet  to  30  inches  apart.  When  snflflciently  advanced  in  growth  the 
rows  should  be  moulded  up.  Unstaked  Peas  form  the  least  haulm,  but 
crop  early  and  heavily. 
Spinach.— The  mild  winter  has  been  favourable  to  the  steady  growth 
of  autumn-sown  Spinach,  and  may  also  lead  to  the  plants  running  to  seed 
earlier  than  usual.  In  any  case,  more  seed  should  be  sown  in  order  that 
there  shall  be  no  break  in  the  supply.  Between  the  rows  of  Reas  that 
are  to  be  staked  may  be  sown  single  lines  of  Spinach,  one  crop  not 
interfering  with  the  other.  Clear  away  weeds,  afterwards  distributing 
soot  between  the  rows,  and  stir  it  in  with  a  Dutch  hoe. 
Early  Potatoes. — It  is  yet  early  to  commence  planting  Rotatoes  on  a 
large  scale,  but  small  breadths  on  warm  borders,  also  lines  at  the  foot  of 
south  walls,  may  be  planted  at  once — that  is,  if  the  state  of  the  weather 
permits.  Select  short-topped,  early  maturing  varieties  for  this  early 
planting,  giving  the  preference  to  tubers  furnished  with  the  first  strong 
sprout  only.  Medium  to  light  free  working  soils  are  best,  and  the  tubers 
may  be  planted  8  inches  apart  in  drills  20  inches  asunder.  Unless  the 
top  growth  is  protected  from  frosts,  first  with  a  ridge  of  soil,  and  later 
with  mats,  blinds,  branches  of  evergreens,  or  anything  else  suitable,  the 
crops  will  be  light. 
