134 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
February  10,  1898. 
and  filled  with  a  compost  of  one  half  leaf  soil,  the  remaining  half  sweet 
loam  and  silver  sand,  well  mixed  and  finely  sifted.  Press  it  moderately 
firm  and  leave  it  quite  level  on  the  surface.  Give  a  thorough  watering 
through  a  fine  rose  can,  allowing  the  soil  to  drain  for  a  few  hours,  when 
seeds  should  be  sown  on  the  surface,  taking  care  to  scatter  them  evenly, 
or  when  the  seedlings  appear  it  will  be  detrimental  to  them  if  they  are 
thickly  placed.  Cover  the  pans  with  sheets  of  glass  and  plunge  them  in 
bottom  heat,  shading  them  with  moss  or  paper.  Excessive  evaporation 
from  the  soil  is  to  be  avoided,  the  object  being  to  keep  it  moist  and  sweet 
so  that  the  seeds  will  germinate  quickly. 
Subsequent  watering  must  be  done  by  holding  the  pans  up  to  their 
rims  in  a  tank  or  bucket  of  tepid  water.  In  this  way  the  water, 
ascending  through  the  drainage,  will  moisten  the  so'l  throughout,  and 
the  seedlings  will  not  be  washed  out  of  place.  Gradually  expose  them 
to  the  light  and  air  by  tilting  the  glass,  but  shading  from  the  sun  will  be 
necessary.  As  soon  as  they  can  be  handled  prepare  other  pans  or  boxes 
as  before  advised,  and  lift  the  plants  carefully  with  a  small  forked  stick, 
pricking  them  off  an  inch  apart.  Continue  to  keep  them  in  a  moist 
temperature  of  65°.  In  the  course  of  a  few  weeks  they  will  be  large 
enough  to  handle,  and  may  be  planted  3  inches  apart  in  other  boxes  or 
potted  in  60’s.  The  soil  should  consist  of  loam  and  leaf  soil  in  equal 
parts,  with  plenty  of  sand.  Keep  the  plants  close  and  shaded  until 
growing  freely,  afterwards  giving  them  more  air  and  near  the  glass. 
Much  care  and  attention  is  saved  l)y  jjlanting  them  9  inches  apart  each 
way  in  frames,  and  when  established  giving  more  air  and  light  shade 
during  the  hottest  part  of  the  day.  They  are  much  injured  by  drought, 
hence  strict  attention  must  be  paid  to  watering.  Gradually  harden  them, 
and  plant  from  6  to  9  inches  apart,  according  to  size,  in  beds  of  rich  soil. 
When  they  have  done  blooming  lift  them  with  as  much  soil  as  possible, 
lay  them  in  boxes,  keeping  each  colour  separate,  and  place  in  airy 
sheds  to  mature,  ultimately  shaking  off  the  soil,  removing  the  stems, 
and  storing  for  the  winter  in  shallow  boxes,  covering  them  with  cocoa 
fibre.  It  is  advisable  to  examine  them  occasionally  when  in  flower, 
and  those  not  true  to  colour  should  be  lifted  out  or  labelled,  so  that 
when  used  for  bedding  the  following  season  they  will  not  be  mixed.—- 
Nil  Despeeandum. 
CTo  be  continued.) 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Planting  Fruit  Trees  and  Bushes.  —  Under  favourable  Weather 
conditions — namely,  mild,  dull,  and  dry — all  kinds  of  fruit  trees  and 
bushes  may  he  planted  with  reasonable  hopes  of  successful  growth 
following.  The  really  best  period  for  planting  is  late  October  and  during 
November,  but  through  the  occurrence  of  wet  periods  or  other  obstacles 
in  those  months  the  work  may  have  been  delayed.  AVhen  that  is  so, 
advantage  must  be  taken  of  every  favourable  opportunity  that  may  * 
present  itself  during  the  next  few  weeks. 
The  chief  points  of  importance  in  planting  are  to  carry  out  the  work 
only  when  the  soil  is  dry  on  the  surface,  and  works  cleanly.  It  is  better 
to  wait  for  these  conditions,  even  if  the  planting  is  deferred  later,  than  to 
carry  out  operations  In  soil  that  adheres  to  the  tools.  The  roots  of  trees 
and  hushes,  of  whatever  size,  ought  not  to  be  exposed  to  the  air  longer 
than  is  necessary  to  admit  of  jagged  and  broken  ends  of  roots  being 
pruned  smoothly.  All  trees  and  bushes  should  have  the  roots  laid-in  in 
moist  soil  as  soon  as  received  from  the  nursery,  and  only  lifted  as  wanted 
for  planting.  Endeavour  to  have  the  soil  well  prepared  by  previous 
trenching  or  digging,  but  not  heavily  manured.  Ground  enriched  for  a 
previous  crop,  which  was  not  of  an  exhausting  nature,  is  suitable  for  fruit. 
Soil  that  requires  manure,  owing  to  its  poor  character,  ought  to  have  it 
well  decayed  and  thoroughly  incorporated. 
IMake  shallow  but  wide  excavations  for  the  reception  of  the  roots,  in 
which  they  can  be  spread  out  to  their  full  length,  placing  them  on  slightly’ 
convex  mounds  of  soil.  Arrange  the  roots  in  layers,  covering  each  with 
a  little  prepared  soil  consisting  of  loam  and  wood  ashes,  spreading  it  upon 
the  fibres  outward  from  the  stem.  Trees  which  will  require  supi)ort  stake 
at  once,  protecting  the  bark  from  injury.  Spread  over  the  roots  a  layer 
of  light  manure. 
Unless  young  trees  are  well  furnished  with  masses  of  fibrous  roots, 
and  are  transplanted  with  adhering  balls  of  soil,  shortening  the  branches 
mu5,t  be  resorted  to,  for  a  tree  with  an  insufficient  number  of  roots  is  not 
capable  of  supporting  long  branches.  Hence  it  is  necessary  in  such  cases 
to  prune  back  to  strong  wood  buds.  Trees  with  a  small  number  of 
branches,  and  re([uiring  more  to  furnish  them  well  with  a  good  founda¬ 
tion,  must  also  be  shortened,  so  that  vigorous  growths  may  push  in 
the  positions  desired.  Also,  if  the  upper  or  terminal  buds  of  Apples  and 
Pears  are  flower  buds,  the  shoots  must  be  pruned  back  to  wood  buds  for 
securing  the  necessaiy  new  growth.  The  pruning  may  be  carried  out 
when  the  buds  commence  swelling. 
Planting  and  Pruning  Raspberries. — The  present  is  a  suitable  time 
to  make  fresh  plantations  of  Raspberries.  No  crop  should  be  expected 
from  them  during  the  present  year,  but  the  stools  ought  to  be  encouraged 
to  make  free  and  strong  growth  in  order  that  fruit  may  be  produced 
abundantly  the  following  year.  The  soil  for  Raspberries  must  be  prepared 
deeply,  and  liberally  manured  in  the  course  of  digging  or  trenching,  good 
half-decayed  farmyard  manure  being  the  best  application.  Plant  a  trio 
of  young  suckers  with  bushy  roots,  in  clumps  a  yard  apart,  in  rows  4  to 
5  feet  asunder,  the  canes  to  be  trained  to  stakes  eventually.  They  may 
also  be  planted  18  inches  asunder  in  rows  4  feet  apart.  A  substantial 
trellis  of  wire  5  feet  high  must  be  fixed,  to  which  the  canes  may  be 
trained  at  equal  distances. 
It  is  desirable  that  all  canes  newly  planted  be  cut  down  to  within 
9  inches  of  the  soil.  This  prevents  fruiting,  but  encourages  growth. 
After  the  planting  is  completed,  mulch  between  the  plants  with  a  layer  of 
manure. 
Preparing  Soil  for  Strawberry  Planting. — Ground  intended  for  Straw¬ 
berries  to  be  planted  this  spring  ought  now  to  be  well  prepared.  Spread 
upon  the  surface  a  liberal  dressing  of  decayed  manure,  digging  the 
ground  deeply,  and  breaking  up  lumpy  portions.  If  of  a  poor,  shallow 
character  the  subsoil  should  be  manured  and  loosened,  but  not  brought  to 
the  surface.  This  may  be  best  effected  by  bastard  trenching.  Soils  of  a 
very  heavy  or  adhesive  character  are  difficult  to  prepare  without  adding 
material  of  a  lightening  nature.  Burnt  refuse  worked  into  the  surface 
is  very  beneficial. 
Established  Strawberry  Beds. — When  cleaned  and  mulched  in  autumn 
Strawberry  beds  seldom  require  attention  before  the  commencement  of 
growth  in  spring,  when  the  undecomposed  remains  of  the  autumn  mulch 
may  be  raked  off,  and  old  withered  foliage  trimmed  away.  The  soil  will 
be  better  for  a  short  period  of  exposure,  after  which  apply  a  mulch  of 
fairly  fresh  strawy  material,  previously  cutting  away  withered  foliage, 
and  dressing  round  the  crowns  with  soot. 
Young  Strawberry  Plantations. — Hoeing  between  the  rows  of  young 
plants  in  dry  weather  is  the  best  cultivation  which  can  be  given  at  the 
present  time.  The  process  admits  the  air,  assists  in  the  pulverising  of 
the  soil  particles,  warming  the  ground,  and  releasing  plant  food. 
Growth  is  thus  promoted,  and  the  vigour  of  the  plants  insured. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Figs  . — Earliest  Trees  in  Pots. — The  trees  set  to  work  in  November  or 
early  December  for  affording  ripe  Figs  in  April  and  May  are  sending  out 
fresh  roots  plentifully,  the  bottom  heat  being  kept  steady  at  about  70°  to 
75°.  Bring  up  the  fermenting  materials  to  the  rim  of  the  pots,  and 
instead  of  allowing  the  roots  to  come  over  the  top  check  them  by  placing 
pieces  of  good  turf  round  the  rims  to  induce  plenty  of  fibres  close  to  the 
stem  and  secure  a  sturdy  habit.  Provide  moisture  in  the  atmosphere  hy 
syringing  twice  a  day  and  damping  the  paths  as  may  be  required  in  bright 
weather.  Admit  a  little  air  at  70°,  increasing  it  with  the  temperature  ; 
close  at  75°,  but  lose  no  opportunity  of  maintaining  a  heat  of  80°,  85°,  or 
even  90°  from  sun  influence,  as  that  is  very  advantageous  in  the  early 
part  of  the  afternoon.  Supply  water  abundantly  at  the  roots  whenever 
required,  always  before  the  trees  are  distressed  for  want  of  it,  ever  using 
a  mild  stimulating  and  sustaining  food  in  thorough  solution  in  it,  and 
always  weak  and  tepid.  Let  the  temperature  in  dull  weather  range  from 
60°  to  65°,  55°  to  60°  at  night  when  the  external  air  is  very  cold,  but  5° 
more  when  mild.  Disbudding  will  need  attention  as  growth  advances, 
and  gross  shoots  require  stopping,  but  the  finest  Figs  are  borne  upon 
extensions.  Shoots,  however,  should  be  pinched  where  necessary  at 
the  fifth  or  sixth  leaf  to  prevent  a  straggling  habit,  but  avoid  crowding 
the  trees  with  foliage,  keeping  them  sufficiently  open  to  admit  light  and 
air  to  every  part. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Trees. — The  trees  started  early  in  the  year 
are  progressing  very  satisfactorily,  the  night  temperature  having  been 
raised  to  55°,  and  to  60°  or"  65°  by  day  from  fire  heat,  with  an  advance 
from  sun  heat  and  free  ventilation  to  70°,  or  even  75°.  Syringe  twice  a 
day  as  before  advised,  but  in  dull  weather  damping  the  paths  with  an 
occasional  syringing  will  be  all  that  is  required.  See  that  the  borders  are 
properly  moistened.  If  the  trees  are  weak,  a  thorough  supply  of  liquid 
manure,  not  too  strong,  and  tepid,  will  assist  the  growth  and  root  action, 
which  must  be  encouraged  by  surface  dressings  of  rather  lumpy  material, 
but  not  thick,  an  inch  or  two  thickness  being  ample. 
Vines. — Eyes  and  Cut-bacJcs. — Eyes  may  now  be  inserted,  using  pots, 
pans,  or  pieces  of  turf.  Select  firm,  well-ripened  wood,  filling  the  pot  or 
pan  with  sound  friable  loam,  inserting  the  buds  with  a  pinch  of  silver 
sand  half  an  inch  beneath  the  surface,  plunging  the  pots  in  a  bottom  heat 
of  80°.  Cut-backs  should  be  placed  in  a  house  where  they  will  have  a 
temperature  of  60°  to  65°  at  night,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day.  When  they 
have  started  into  growth  shake  them  out  and  return  them  to  the  same 
size  of  pot,  using  good  friable  loam,  providing  a  moist  and  rather  close 
atmosphere  until  they  are  re-established,  when  they  should  have  a  position 
near  the  glass,  so  as  to  insure  sturdy,  short-jointed,  thoroughly  solidified 
growth. 
Early  House. — The  Vines  in  flower  must  have  a  temperature  of  65°  to 
70°  at  night,  5"  less  on  cold  nights,  and  Muscats  70°  to  75°,  rising  5°  to 
10°  by  day  with  gleams  of  sunshine.  Keep  the  atmosphere  somewhat 
drier  by  free  ventilation,  leaving  a  little  on  at  night ;  yet  a  genial  condi¬ 
tion  of  the  atmosiihere  must  be  maintained  by  sprinkling  the  floors  two 
or  three  times  a  day  during  bright  weather.  Any  shy-setting  varieties 
may  have  the  pollen  distributed  by  means  of  a  cameTs-hair  brush.  Stop 
the  laterals  at  the  first  leaf,  and  keep  those  pinched  to  one  leaf  throughout 
the  season  ;  but  growths  beyond  the  bunch  may  be  allowed  to  make  two 
or  more  joints,  provided  there  is  space  for  the  full  ex]iosure  of  the  foliage 
to  light  and  air.  Avoid  overcrowding  the  foliage.  It  is  better  to  reduce 
the  laterals  than  retain  them  to  the  extent  of  crowding,  retaining  fruit 
