13(5 
•WtiRNAL  OF  HORTiGULTURE  AKt)  COTTAGE  GARDE  ITER. 
February  10,  1898. 
the  honey  harvest ;  more  particularly  is  this  observed  when  they  are 
worked  on  full-sized  frames  for  extracting  purposes  as  above,  as  they 
are  fully  under  command,  and  will  store  a  surplus  whilst  weak  colonies 
would  starve. — An  English  Bee-keepeb. 
LARGE  FRAMES. 
On  page  1 13,  “Warwick”  says,  “Will  ‘George  Howdenshire  ’  kindly 
inform  one  who  is  just  commencing  bee-keeping  where  to  obtain  the 
frames  he  mentions  on  page  70,  20  inches  by  8^,  also  the  size  of  hive  he 
would  most  recommend  In  the  first  place  I  may  tell  “Warwick”  I  am 
not  the  originator  of  the  large  frames ;  so  far  as  I  know  they  were  made  first 
in  Scotland.  If  “Warwick”  has  the  back  number  of  this  Journal  for 
June  7ih,  1894  (page  462),  he  will  find  it  recorded  that  Mr.  IVilliam 
Cowie  had  hives  with  fifteen  frames  20  inches  by  8j,  and  two  tiers  of 
supers  filled  by  the  31st  of  May.  I  do  not  know  any  dealer  who  sells 
these  frames.  The  bee-keepers  in. this  district  either  make  their  own  or 
get  them  made  by  a  local  tradesman.  What  hive  do  I  most  recommend  ? 
I  may  state  that  several  hives  have  been  tried  here — viz.,  the  hive  to  take 
ten  standard  frames;  Mrs.  Simmon’s  hive  that  takes  a  frame  16  by 
10  inches  ;  the  Scotch  hive,  as  I  prefer  to  call  it,  that  takes  frames  20  by 
inches,  and  another  that  takes  frames  18  by  9  inches.  Of  the  two 
latter  it  is  hard  for  me  to  say  which  I  prefer,  as  the  results  have  been  so 
good  in  both  cases.  The  only  drawback  to  the  hive  that  takes  20-inch 
frames  is  the  large  supers  are  not  so  easy  to  manipulate.  However,  to  a 
beginner  I  do  not  hesitate  to  recommend  the  hive  that  takes  twelve  frames 
18  by  9  inches.  The  hive  to  take  these  frames  is  18^  by  18^  inside 
measurement,  single  cased,  made  of  five-eighth  wood  if  used  in  a  bee  house. 
Such  hives  do  well  in  an  outside  apiary.  Six  miles  from  ray  home,  in  a 
good  Clover  district,  three  of  us  are  interested  in  a  bee  house  that 
holds  twenty  hives,  arranged  to  face  N.,  E.,  S.  and  IV.  The  hives  have 
single  cases,  are  not  so  clumsy  as  some  might  think,  and  manipulation  at 
all  times  is  a  comfort  in  this  house.  If  “Warwick”  decides  on  making 
either  of  these  large  hives,  and  wants  more  information,  I  should  be 
pleased  to  give  him  correct  measurements  of  both  hives  and  frames. — 
George  Howdenshire. 
A.ll  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should,  until 
further  notice,  be  directed  to  “  The  Editor,”  a,  Rose  Htil  Road, 
Wandswortli,  S.W.,  and  NOT  to  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers, 
P’leet  Street,  it  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately  to 
any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Jotirnal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to 
unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  departmental  writers 
are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they  may  receive  on 
Gardening  and  Bee  subjects  through  the  post.  If  information 
be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any  particular 
authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be  made  to  obtain 
it  by  the  Editor. 
Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  should  never  send 
more  than  two  or  three  questions  at  once.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  be  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
Chrysanthemum  Leaves  Diseased  (  W.  if.).— No.  I  leaves  are  infested 
l)y  the  Chrysanthemum  leaf-rust  fungus  (Uredo  chrysanthemi),  which 
first  a])peared  last  year  in  this  country,  and  was  figured  and  described 
in  the  Joarnnl  of  Horticulture  the  2 1st  of  last  October.  The  only  means 
of  riddance  is  to  destroy  the  worst  infested  leaves  by  burning  them  ;  but 
yours  are  not  so  f.ir  advanced  in  attack  as  to  render  this  necessary, 
therefore  we  should  dust  the  plants  very  lightly  on  the  under  side  of 
the  leaves  with  a  fungicide  containing  sulphate  of  copper,  such  as  anti¬ 
blight,  fostite,  or  others,  using  a  bellows  apparatus  ;  or,  if  j-ou  prefer  a 
li([uid  a])plication,  use  sulphide  of  potassium,  half  an  ounce  to  a  gallon  of 
water,  dipping  small  plants  or  cuttings  in  the  solution,  otherwise  spraying 
or  syringing  it  on,  the  plants  being  laid  on  their  sides,  so  as  to  wet  the 
under  side  of  the  leaves.  No.  2  leaves  contain  the  irregular  and  shallow 
pustules  of  the  parasite  in  its  earliest  form,  but  the  spores  are  shed  and 
many  of  the  a^cidia  have  not  matured,  the  mycelium  traversing  the  inter¬ 
cellular  spaces  of  the  leaves  and  destroying  the  ti.ssnes.  This  completes 
the  life  history  of  the  fungus — first  the  aecidia  form  (.^Ecidium  chr^'santha), 
then  the  uredo,  or  rust  stage  (Uredo  chrysanthemi),  and  finally  the 
resting  form  (Puccinia  chrysanthemse),  all  on  the  same  host  plant,  or 
different  members  (in  your  case)  of  the  varietal  forms.  Treat  as  above 
advised. 
Propagating  Aralias  (^Aralid). — You  will  find  the  information  you 
require  on  page  71  of  our  issue  of  January  20th  of  the  present  year,  or 
just  three  weeks  ago. 
Plans  of  Flower  Beds  (  TV.  (?.). — As  you  require  beds  similar  to  those 
in  Hyde  Park  you  cannot  do  better  than  choose  such  as  you  prefer  as  are 
figured  in  the  book  entitled  the  “  Parks  and  Gardens  of  London.”  It 
can  be  obtained  through  a  bookseller,  or  by  post  from  the  publisher,  12, 
Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street,  in  return  for  2s.  lid. 
Chrysanthemum  Mrs.  W.  H.  Lees  ((7.  /S’.). — Mr.  Molyneux  writes  : 
“  To  my  knowledge  this  is  the  first  time  a  sport  has  appeared  on  this 
Chrysanthemum.  There  need  be  no  surprise  at  this,  as  any  variety  is 
liable  to  s])ort  at  an  unexpected  period.  As  yet  the  origin  of  sports  is  a 
mystery.  By  all  means  retain  the  sport,  as  being  yellow  it  should  be  a 
valuable  variety  coming  from  such  a  good  stock  as  that  named,  which, 
when  in  good  condition,  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  Japanese  section.” 
Improving  Mossy  Lawn  (A.  K.), — As  the  soil  is  of  a  stiff  clayey 
character,  perhaps  it  needs  draining.  It  the  lawn  is  small,  and  you  can 
provide  a  mixture  of  three  parts  fresh  loam  and  one  part  each  of 
lime  and  wood  ashes,  to  spread  on  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  after  well 
combing  out  the  moss  with  a  sharp-toothed  iron  rake,  improvement  would 
be  certain  to  follow.  The  simple  mixture  used  by  Dr.  Hogg  was  not  for 
destroying  moss,  but  for  keeping  the  lawn  in  good  condition,  and  in  the 
field  improving  the  herbage  for  stock.  In  the  case  mentioned  on  page  75, 
January  27th,  of  the  moss  being  “burnt  up,”  and  a  lawn  of  grass  follow¬ 
ing,  superphosphate  was  used  at  the  rate  of  about  13  cwt.  per  acre. 
Lime  Water  for  Destroying  Moss  on  Fruit  Trees  (F.). — We  have 
not  found  lime  water  thoroughly  effective  for  destroying  lichen  and  moss 
on  fruit  trees,  but  it  acts  fairly  well  when  continued  from  year  to  year, 
yet  not  nearly  as  satisfactory  as  limewash,  this  having  also  a  good  effect 
on  the  land,  as  it  scales  off  with  the  dead  overgrowths,  and  thus  profits 
the  trees  ultimately.  A  wash  of  sulphate  of  copper,  1  lb.  to  25  gallons  of 
water,  with  the  same  amount  of  freshly  burned  best  chalk  lime,  slaked 
and  formed  into  a  wash  before  adding  to  the  sulphate  of  copper  solution, 
answers  for  destroying  lichenous  growths  and  preventive  of  fungoid 
attacks,  applying  whilst  the  buds  are  quite  dormant  in  very  early  s]iring 
with  a  spraying  apparatus.  A  very'  successful  fruit  grower  has  found  the 
cost  of  10s.  6d.  per  acre  in  using  the  caustic  mixture  you  name  a  profit¬ 
able  investment. 
Fungus  under  the  Bark  of  Dead  Trees  (/.  C.). — The  specimen  is  the 
densely  felted  mycelial  hyphae  of  the  bark  fungus  (Stereum  acerinum), 
which  may  commonly  be  found  on  the  living  bark  of  Acer  campestre  or 
fiel(i  Maple  in  hedgerows,  slowly  but  surely  killing  the  affected  plants. 
Probably  the  fungus  does  not  or  cannot  attack  quite  healthy  trees,  but 
this  is  mere  conjecture,  as  the  trees  are  not  noticed  to  be  unhealthy  until 
the  parasite  has  got  a  good  hold  upon  them  and  remedy’  is  out  of  . the 
question.  We  can  suggest  nothing  but  to  clear  away  the  infested  trees, 
stubbing  them,  thus  removing  the  cause  of  infestation.  Whatever  may 
be  necessary  to  promote  health  in  the  trees,  such  as  drainage,  must 
be  left  to  those  cognisant  of  all  the  circumstances,  but  w’e  found  clearance 
of  affected  trees  the  only  safeguard  in  a  belt  of  Sycamore  in  a  smoky 
district,  this  being  regarded  as  the  inducement  to  attack — namely’,  the 
impaired  vitality  of  the  trees. 
Nectarines  Losing  Their  Branches  (Y,  J.  J.).  —  The  cause  of  the 
Nectarine  trees  losing  the  branches  on  one  side  one  year,  and  dying  on 
the  other  side  the  other  year,  is  gumming.  This  is  due  to  the  growth  of 
a  fungus  (Coryneum  Beijerincki)  which  destroys  the  inner  bark,  and 
encircling  the  branch  cuts  off  the  supply  of  sap,  the  part  above  suddenly’ 
collapsing.  The  excessive  vigour  of  the  new  growths  is  abnormal,  and 
the  provocatory  cause  is  the  pushing  of  the  mycelial  threads  into  the 
cellular  spaces  of  the  young  wood,  which  is  followed  in  due  course  by  a 
ferment  and  exudation  from  the  ^outy  growth,  and  the  branch  sooner  or 
later  dies.  The  only  known  remedy  is  to  cut  away  all  the  gummed 
parts  a  few  inches  below  where  the  exudation  occurs,  and  train  in  young 
growths.  As  the  spores  of  the  fungus  cannot  penetrate  short-jointed 
growth  with  thick  elastic  epidermal  tissues,  it  is  found  that  lifting  those 
trees  which  make  strong  growth  induces  shorter-jointed  and  better 
solidified  wood,  capable  of  resisting  the  fungus  and  producing  better 
crops  of  fruit.  This  we  advise:  Lift  the  tries  carefully,  cut  away  the 
diseased  parts,  if  not  all  at  once,  as  soon  as  others  and  healthier  are 
produced  to  supplant  them. 
Worms  in  Tomato  Roots  (7)  P.  i?.).— The  “small  worms  ”  are  myria- 
pods— the  familiar  snake  millipede  (Julus  pulchellus),  which  feeds  for 
the  most  part  upon  dead  or  injured  vegetable  or  animal  substances.  It, 
however,  attac  s  the  living  fleshy  roots  of  many  plants,  and  even  the  crown 
growths,  causing  their  decay  or  destruction.  The  ‘‘dry’  as  dust”  Tomato 
roots  have  been  infested  by’  root-knot  eelworm  (Heterodera  radicicola), 
this  pest  being  the  cause  of  the  warts  on  the  roots  and  of  the  collapse  of 
I  he  plants.  We  should  clear  all  such  away’,  and  burn  every  particle  of 
root  that  can  be  got  hold  of,  then  scald  the  whole  soil  and  walls  of  the 
bed  with  boiling  water,  thoroughly  wetting  every  jiart  in  the  completest 
manner,  and  if  you  take  out  the  soil  also  scald  the  walls  again,  and  the 
bottom  of  the  bed.  This  will  settle  the  eel  vorms  which  it  reaches  with 
or  without  phenyle  (see  Mr.  Iggulden's  article,  ])age  76,  .January  27th), 
and  the  only  further  precaution  will  be  not  to  reintroduce  the  eelworm 
uilh  the  soil  or  compost.  If  this  be  scalded  before  use  there  will  be  little 
danger  of  the  enemy  reappearing.  For  the  millipedes  use  baits  of 
Carrots,  Parsnips,  Mangolds,  or  Potatoes,  preferably  partly  decayed,  and 
when  the  animals  are  near  the  surface  they  can  easily  be  scalded  where 
there  are  no  roots  to  injure,  or  the  pests  can  be  otherwise  killed  by 
crushing  them  with  a  knife. 
