February  17,  1898. 
JOURNAL  OF  BORTIGUL'TURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
15f 
days,  and  again  at  closing  time  or  early  in  the  afternoon.  Ventilate 
carefully,  avoiding  cold  currents  of  air.  When  the  air  is  sharp,  some 
hexagon  netting  or  scrim  canvas  placed  over  the  ventilators  will  break 
the  force  of  cutting  winds.  Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  65°  to  70°, 
5°  less  in  severe  weather,  75°  by  day,  raising  to  85°  or  90°  from  sun 
heat,  keeping  the  bottom  heat  steady  at  80°. 
Melons  in  Pits  or  i^awies. —Plants  with  the  growths  trained  over 
the  surface  of  the  bed  being  stopped  at  the  second  leaf  will  produce 
two  or  more  shoots,  but  two  are  sufficient,  rubbing  off  the  others.  Stop 
the  two  shoots  at  two  joints  of  growth  ;  this  will  give  four  shoots,  taking 
two  to  the  front  and  two  to  the  back  of  the  frame.  Besides  these  other 
shoots  may  appear  near  the  collar  ;  rub  them  off  whilst  quite  young,  and 
do  not  encourage  any  laterals  nearer  the  stem  than  6  inches.  This  will 
keep  the  collar  clear.  Stop  the  principal  shoots  when  within  a  foot  of  the 
sides  of  the  frame,  and  thus  throw  vigour  into  the  laterals,  which  will 
show  fruit  at  the  second  or  third  joint  ;  or  if  not,  stop  them  to  induce  sub¬ 
laterals  and  a  plentiful  show  for  fruit,  bearing  shoots  being  stopped 
one  joint  beyond  the  fruit.  Cover  the  lights  with  double  mats  at 
night,  and  attend  to  the  linings  regularly,  renewing  the  old  ones  as 
required.  Prepare  material  for  making  up  fresh  beds.  About  a  fortnight 
before  it  is  desired  to  make  up  the  beds  the  manure  and  leaves  should  be 
thoroughly  incorporated.  In  a  few  days  it  will  be  seen  whether  there  is 
sufficient  moisture  to  produce  decomposition,  fermentation  being  the  result; 
if  not,  turn  the  whole,  sprinkling  with  water  so  as  to  moisten  the  mass, 
and  when  in  good  heat  turn  again,  outside  to  inside,  two  or  three  turnings 
being  required  at  intervals  of  a  few  days  to  secure  sweetened  material. 
The  bottom  heat  of  fermenting  beds  should  be  85‘‘  to  90°. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines.  —  Earliest  Forced  House.  —  This  applies  to 
midseason  varieties  started  in  December,  and  to  early  varieties  started  a 
month  afterwards.  Both  will  ripen  the  fruit  early  in  May,  but  if  the  very 
early  varieties  were  set  to  work  early  in  December  the  fruit  will  ripen 
towards  the  end  of  April,  or  even  earlier  with  sharp  forcing,  which  we 
do  not  advise.  The  trees  must  be  syringed  every  morning  and  afternoon 
to  check  red  spider  and  other  pests.  If,  however,  the  weather  be  dull  the 
syringing  must  be  practised  early  in  the  afternoon,  so  as  to  allow  the 
trees  to  become  fairly  dry  before  night,  or  if  that  does  not  take  place  the 
afternoon  syringing  should  be  dispensed  with,  damping  the  paths  and 
borders  instead,  as  keeping  the  trees  dripping  with  water  through  the 
night  causes  weak  growth  and  thin  foliage.  Outside  borders  must  have 
protection  from  the  cold,  a  light  mulching  of  dry  partially  decayed 
manure  is  sufficient.  Water  inside  borders  as  required,  using  liquid 
manure,  which  will  assist  the  trees  in  swelling  the  fruit,  especially 
in  the  case  of  weakly  trees  long  subjected  to  forcing.  Vigorous  trees 
will  not  require  any  stimulants,  excessive  vigour  being  fatal  to  the  fruit 
satisfactorily  passing  the  stoning  period.  When  the  fruits  are  the  size  of 
small  marbles  thinning  may  commence,  but  removing  a  lew  only  at  a 
time,  beginning  with  those  that  are  badly  placed  and  the  least  promising. 
Continue  disbudding,  taking  care  to  leave  a  growth  at  the  base  of  each 
bea'^ing  shoot,  and  another  at  the  extremity,  or  at  least  on  a  level  with 
the  fruit.  The  shoots  retained  for  attracting  the  sap  to  the  truit  should 
be  stopped  at  the  second  or  third  leaf,  but  the  basal  growths  must  be 
trained  in  to  take  the  place  of  those  now  bearing  fruit.  Shoots  upon 
«  xtensions  must  be  left  1'2  to  15  inches  distance  apart  to  form  the  bearing 
wood  of  the  future.  It  is  a  great  mistake  to  crowd  the  trees  with  growths 
for  which  there  is  not  space  to  allow  of  full  exposure  to  fight  and  air, 
therefore  avoid  overcrowding,  seeking  to  maintain  an  equal  balance  of 
growth  throughout  the  trees,  and  its  solidification  by  judicious  ventilation 
Second  Early  House.  fertilisation  still  be  practised,  gently  brushing 
the  flowers  or  distributing  the  pollen  by  shaking  the  trellis,  but  a  camel’s- 
hair  brush  secures  this  most  efficiently.  Admit  air  freely  on  all  favourable 
occasions,  avoiding,  however,  cold  currents,  and  provide  a  little  ventilation 
constantly  at  the  top  of  the  house.  Continue  the  night  temperature  at 
50',  45^  on  cold  nights,  55°  by  day  artificially,  and  6u“  to  65  from  sun 
heat,  not  allowing  a  rise  above  65°  without  a  free  circulation  of  air. 
Syringe  the  trees  when  the  flowers  fade  and  the  fruit  is  set,  moderately, 
however,  at  first,  so  as  to  assist  the  trees  in  casting  off  the  remains  of  the 
blossoms.  Up  to  the  fruit  setting  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere 
may  be  secured  by  damping  surfaces  other  than  the  trees  in  the  morning 
and  afternoon. 
Houses  Started  in  February. — The  trees  started  early  in  the  month  are 
swelling  their  buds  rapidly.  Cease  syringing  when  they  show  colour. 
Maintain,  however,  a  good  moisture  by  damping  the  paths  and  borders 
two  or  three  times  a  day,  as  the  weather  may  dictate,  avoiding  a  close 
stagnant  atmosphere.  If  the  flowers  are  numerous  thin  them  by  rubbing 
the  hand  downwards  on  the  under  side  of  the  shoots,  which  will  strengthen  • 
the  remainder.  Examine  the  trees  closely,  and  if  there  be  any  aphides 
fumigate  or  vaporise  with  tobacco  or  nicotine,  so  as  to  destroy  the  pests 
before  the  flowers  expand.  Continue  the  temperature  at  40°  to  45°  at 
night  and  50°  by  day,  above  which  ventilate  freely.  When  the  flowers 
expapd  raise  the  temperature  to  50°  at  night,  55°  by  day,  and  60°  to  65° 
from  sun  heat,  with  free  ventilation.  On  cold  nights  the  temperature 
may  fall  to  45°  or  even  less,  also  50°  by  day,  -  allow  ing  a  little  ventilation 
constantly  at  the  top  of  the  house. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Garlic  and  Shallots. — It  is  only  by  planting  as  soon  as  the  ground  can 
be  properly  prepared  that  these  roots  can  be  grown  to  perfection.  They 
invariably  mature  early  in  the  summer.  Prepare  the  ground  by  digging 
in  a  liberal  dressing  of  short  decayed  manure,  and  make  it  fine,  firm,  and 
level.  The  best  crops  result  from  planting  medium-sized  to  large, 
unbroken  “bulbs,”  but  if  small  divisions  are  planted  most  of  these  will 
attain  to  a  large  or  exhibition  size,  not  breaking  up.  Let  the  rows  be 
grown  10  inches  to  12  inches  apart,  and  plant  6  inches  to  8  inches  asunder 
in  the  rows. 
Parsley. — In  gardens  where  it  is  difficult  to  obtain  good  rows  of 
Parsley  by  sowing  now,  or  later,  where  the  plants  are  to  remain,  the  plan 
of  raising  the  requisite  number  of  plants  under  glass  should  be  adopted. 
Sow  the  seeds  thinly  in  either  boxes  or  a  bed  of  soil  over  a  mild  hotbed, 
and  do  not  coddle  the  plants.  When  these  have  formed  a  strong  tap  root 
all  may  be  pricked  directly  into  sheltered  borders,  arranging  the  plants 
6  inches  to  9  inches  asunder  in  rows  1  foot  apart.  Sink  the  tap  roots  to 
their  full  depth  and  fix  them  well,  further  protecting  from  slugs  and  cold 
frosty  winds. 
Parsnips. — One  of  the  effects  of  the  mild  winter  is  the  early  starting 
into  growth  of  Parsnips,  large  quantities  of  which  are  undug.  It  is 
possible  there  may  yet  be  a  scarcity  of  green  vegetables,  and  Parsnips 
will  then  be  in  greater  demand.  The  roots  ought  to  be  lifted,  stored  in  a 
heap  in  a  cool  shady  place,  and  covered  with  soil,  sand,  or  ashes.  Large 
Parsnips  are  of  less  value  than  the  medium-sized  to  small  roots,  hence 
the  breaking  away  from  the  old  custom  of  sowing  the  seed  as  early  in 
February  as  the  state  of  the  ground  permitted.  If  the  open  weather 
continues  seeds  may  be  sown  now.  Especially  is  this  desirable  in  gardens 
where  the  ground  ought  not  to  be  trampled  on  if  in  a  somewhat  wet 
condition.  If  the  selected  plot  of  ground  was  well  manured  for  a  pre¬ 
ceding  surface-rooting  crop  no  manure  need  be  added  now.  Make  the 
ground  as  tine  as  possible  to  a  good  depth,  and  sow  the  seed  thinly  in 
shallow  drills  15  inches  apart. 
Rhubarb. — The  crowns  of  early  Rhubarb  are  on  the  point  of  bursting 
and  if  any  fresh  beds  or  rows  are  to  be  formed,  this  should  be  done, 
weather  permitting,  soon.  The  finest  and  most  succulent  stalks  are  pro¬ 
duced  by  comparatively  young  plants,  and  the  poorest  from  exhausted 
clumps.  Some  of  the  latter  should,  therefore,  he  lifted,  forced,  and 
destroyed  each  season,  and  an  equal  number  of  fresh  plants  be  put  out. 
Rhubarb  should  have  heavily  manured,  double-dug  sites,  and  the  stations 
ought  to  be  3  feet  apart  each  way.  The  best  early  red  varieties,  wdth  a 
few  clumps  of  Victoria,  meet  the  requirements  of  most  establishments,  and 
if  there  is  a  stock  of  these,  lift  some  of  the  older  plants,  divide  into  as 
many  pieces  as  possible — one  good  crown  and  a  few  roots  being  enough 
for  each  division.  Replant  either  singly  or  in  groups  of  threes,  sinking 
them  so  that  only  the  crowns  show  above  the  ground,  fix  the  soil  firmly 
about  the  roots,  level  over,  and  mulch  with  strawy  manure.  Cut  out  flower 
stems  if  these  unfortunately  appear,  but  do  not  draw  any  stalks  for  use 
during  the  first  season.  Rhubarb  may  be  forwarded  considerably  by 
having  heaps  of  strawy  litter  banked  loosely  over  the  clumps,  covering  the 
litter,  and  adding  more  occasionally. 
Tomatoes. —  Young  plants  with  their  roots  confined  in  small  pots  draw 
up  rapidly,  especially  in  dull  sunless  weather.  From  these  small  pots 
they  should  be  either  shifted  into  6-iiich  or  planted  direct  where  thej'  are 
to  fruit,  doing  this  before  they  become  badly  root-bound.  There  are 
various  methods  of  culture  open  to  private  gardeners.  Excellent  crops 
can  be  obtained  from  plants  with  their  roots  principally  or  solely  in 
10- inch  to  12-inch  pots,  but  those  who  favour  this  practice  must  be 
prepared  to  apply  abundance  of  water  and  liquid  manure.  Boxes  a  foot 
or  so  III  depth  answer  belter  than  pots,  bei-ause  the  soil  does  not  dry  so 
quickly  as  in  pots.  Pots  or  boxes  can  be  arranged  on  fiont  stagings, 
and  the  plants  trained  up  the  roof,  or  on  pit  walls  and  central  stagings, 
where  they  may  be  supported  with  strong  stakes.  Tomatoes  succeed 
admirably  when  planted  out  1  fool  apart  in  a  narrow  ridge  of  soil  arranged 
along  the  fronts  of  houses,  but  in  such  positions  they  must  be  well  looked 
after,  receiving  abundance  of  water  and  liquid  manure,  with  occaoional 
mulchings.  They  are  also  greatly  assisted  by  being  allowed  to  root  out 
from  pots,  boxes,  oriidges  of  soil  into  a  good  thickness  of  ashes,  which 
should  be  kept  constantly  moist  with  liquid  manure.  In  all  cases  make 
the  soil  firm  about  the  roots,  and  from  the  first  keep  it  steadily  moist. 
Tomatoes  succeed  well  in  vine-ies  during  the  first  two  seasons,  but  it  is  a 
waste  of  labour  trying  to  fruit  them  under  a  heavy  canopy  of  Vine 
leaves.  If,  instead  of  planting  them  out,  the  Tomatoes  are  placed  in 
11- inch  pots  arranged  across  the  house  midway  between  the  young  Vines, 
allowing  them  to  root  out  into  the  border  after  the  fruit  has  commenced 
setting,  they  will  produce  heavy  crops  without  detriment  to  the  Grape 
Vines.  At  this  time  of  year  fire  heat  is  necessary  for  Tomato  plants.  A 
night  temperature  of  55'  to  60°,  with  a  rise  of  10°  in  the  daytime, 
suffices,  and  a  little  top  air  should  be  given  during  the  warmest  part  of 
the  clay. 
TRADE  CATALOGUES  RECEIVED. 
Dickson,  Brown  &  Tail,  Corporation  Street,  Manchester.— Farm  Seeds. 
J.  Green,  Dereham. — Dahlias. 
W.  W.  Johnson  &  Son,  Ltd  ,  Boston.  Lines. — Seeds. 
Leeds  Orchid  Co.,  Roundhay,  Leeds. — Orchids. 
G.  Masters,  East  Molesey. — Seeds. 
E.  Morse,  Epsom.  -  Seeds. 
J.  R.  Pearson  &  Sons,  Chilwell,  IS oiis.— Pelargoniums. 
Ant.  Roozen  &  Sons,  Overveen,  Haarlem.— and  Seeds. 
J.  Russell,  Richmond,  Surrey.— S’ecds. 
Sutton  &  Sons,  Reading.— Farmers’  Year  Book. 
Louis  Van  Houte,  Pfere,  Ghent.  -  Begonias  and  Gloxinias. 
Vilmorin,  Andrieux,  &  Co.,  4,  Quai  de  la  Megisserie,  Paris.— CArys- 
E.  Webb  &  Sons,  Wordsley.— Farm  Seeds. 
