178 
JOUB.NAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
Februa-y  24.  1898. 
Ceat^gus  pyracantha  is  an  evergreen  hardy  shrub,  and  produces 
large  bunches  of  bright  red  berries  in  midwinter  ;  it  is,  in  fact,  one  of  the 
best  berried  plants  for  winter  work  that  we  possess.  It  requires  support 
in  the  shape  of  nails  and  shreds  neatly  applied. 
COTONEASTER  MICROPHYLEA  is  even  better  than  the  foregoing  for 
thickly  covering  a  wall.  It  is  perfectly  hardy  and  produces  small  white 
flowers  singly  during  summer,  followed  by  small  red  fruits  in  the  autumn, 
and  remaining  through  the  winter.  Of  these  berries  the  birds  are  very' 
fond,  especially  the  yellowhammer.  The  plant  requires  support  like  the 
foregoing. 
Lathyrus. — Several  species  of  this,  the  Pea  family,  are  useful  for 
pillars,  but  may  be  objectionable  to  some  on  account  of  their  habit  of  dying 
down  to  the  ground  in  the  autumn. 
Jasminums  are  good  climbers.  The  yellow  J.  nudiflorum  is  in  bloom 
with  us  now,  and  is  quite  attractive  at  this  dull  season. 
Pyeus. — Amongst  these  may  well  be  included  as  wall  plants 
P.  japonica  ;  it  is  very  beautiful  just  now  with  its  masses  of  bright  red 
flowers.  Habit  deciduous. 
SWAINSONIA  GALEGIFOETA  is  good  for  pillars,  but  is  deciduous.  It 
flowers  profusely  during  the  summer  months,  the  colour  of  the  flowers 
being  purple  red. 
MACtNOLTAS  are  excellent  for  large  walls.  M.  grandiflora  is  an  ever¬ 
green  ;  flowers  creamy  white,  very  sweet  scented,  and  about  a  foot  in 
diameter.  M.  Soulangeana  is  a  deciduous  hybrid,  and  produces  purple 
white  flowers  in  great  profusion  during  April. 
Ceanothus. — C.  azureus  bears  profusely  large  racemes'  of  light  blue 
flowers,  which  not  only  look  beautiful  on  the  plant,  but  are  useful  also 
for  cutting  purposes.  This  variety  being  only  half-hardy',  should  be 
assigned  a  position  on  a  low  south  wall.  It  requires  nailing  as  does  a 
Hose. 
Honeysuckles  ought  not  to  be  forgotten,  the  Scarlet  Trumpet 
(Lonicera  sempervirens)  being  especially  good  and  floriferous.  All  the 
above  may  be  purchased  from  a  good  nurseryman  at  any  time  of  the  year 
in  pots,  and  anyor.e  contemplating  planting  should  do  the  work  at  once 
They  will  succeed  well  in  fibrous  loam,  with  a  fourth  part  of  good  leaf 
mould  added. — T.  P. 
[Is  Swainsonia  galegifolia  generally  accepted  as  hardy  1  It  is  a 
recognised  greenhouse  or  conservatory  plant,  and  Clematis  indivisa  is 
usually  grown  under  glass,  producing  a  charming  effect  in  conservatories.] 
WOKH^oiitheWEEK.. 
HAEDY  PRUIT  GARDEN. 
Improving  Fruit  Trees. — Fruit  trees  are  always  capable  of  improve¬ 
ment  when  the  branches  are  crowded  together,  unduly  contorted  in  shape, 
or  grow  into  each  other  from  opposite  directions.  The  results  following 
negligence  in  this  respect  are  to  be  seen  in  fruitless  branches,  loss  of 
vigour,  and  ultimately  accumulations  of  worn  out  spurs  and  dead  wood. 
Standard  Trees. — To  effect  permanent  improvement  with  standard  fruit 
trees,  the  first  essential  is  that  each  individual  tree  has  ample  space 
allowed  it  all  round.  It  should  stand  at  least  20  feet  apart  from  other 
standard  trees,  no  matter  what  its  age  or  size.  Fully  grown  trees  require 
all  the  air,  light,  and  space  possible,  and  young  trees  in  the  process  of 
development  need  the  above  conditions  just  the  same  to  assist  their 
extension.  This  is  frequently  lost  sight  of.  Trees  are  planted  closer 
than  they  ought  to  bo  in  the  first  instance,  and  are  not  allowed  to  be 
removed  in  time  for  preventing  their  injuring  one  another.  This  can  be 
rectiSed  to  some  extent,  but  never  so  well  as  when  the  trees  are  beginning 
to  touch.  The  next  step  is  to  thin  out  the  branches.  Do  not  hesitate 
to  allow  each  plenty  of  room,  but  where  there  is  much  pruning  required  it 
may  not  bo  wise  to  carry  it  all  out  in  one  season.  Some  branches  might 
be  removed  in  summer  and  the  rest  the  following  winter,  a  preliminary 
clearance  being  carried  out  now  as  a  commencement.  Thinning  out,  not 
shortening,  is  the  principle  to  follow  in  pruning  standards. 
Pyramids  and  Bushes. — The  trees  individually  are  not  so  frequently 
crowded,  but  the  branches  are  often  found  to  be  inconveniently  numerous. 
When  this  is  the  case  the  number  ought  by  all  means  to  be  judiciously 
reduced.  The  continual  cutting  back  of  wood  to  form  spurs  causes  these 
to  be  crowded  and  elongated,  hence  it  is  desirable  that  some  reduction 
and  thinning  of  them  should  take  place.  Weakly  spurs  are  best  dispensed 
with  if  possible.  They  produce  leaves,  which  may  shade  those  attached 
to  better  spurs.  Dead  growths  and  spurs  are  usually  the  result  of  over¬ 
crowding,  and  in  renovating  trees  every  })ortion  ought  to  be  cut  out. 
Furcation  of  the  branches  may  cause  crowding.  When  this  is  so,  cut  out 
the  least  desirable,  having,  as  far  as  possible,  each  branch  a  simple  cordon. 
Wall  Trees. — The  tendency  to  crowd  the  branches  of  wall  fruit  trees 
when  young  leads  to  disastrous  results  later.  The  branches  of  Apples, 
Pears,  Plums,  and  Cherries  which  are  spur-pruned  ought  not  to  be  less 
than  a  foot  apart.  Some  that  grow  strongly  may  be  wider  apart,  especially 
on  low  walls.  The  most  vigorous  growth  takes  place  on  the  upper 
branches,  and  strict  attention  must  be  given  not  to  allow  them  to  become 
unduly  furnished  with  long  spurs,  that  will  shade  those  below  them. 
Furnishing  Fruit  Walls. — The  most  suitable  fruit  trees  for  furnishing 
walls  of  various  aspects  is  often  a  matter  of  importance.  Apricots, 
Peaches  and  Nect>irines  ought  to  have  the  best  positions  on  south  walls 
which  are  high  enough  to  permit  of  free  extension.  South  aspects  being 
the  sunniest  and  warmest  enables  the  fruit  to  be  brought  to  perfection,  as 
well  as  thoroughly  ripening  the  wood.  Choice  Apples,  Pears  and  Plums 
may  also  have  similar  aspects,  other  varieties  of  these  fruits  having  a 
western  wall.  East  walls  may  also  be  devoted  to  hardy  Plums,  Pears, 
cordon  Gooseberries  and  Red  Currants,  while  north  walls  may  be  planted 
with  Morello  Cherries,  cordon  Gooseberries,  and  Currants. 
Pruning  Gooseberries. — When  Gooseberry  pruning  has  been  left  over 
on  account  of  birds  attacking  the  buds  the  bushes  ought  now  to  be  dealt 
with.  The  severe  pruning  practised  by  some  is  not  advisable  where  much 
damage  is  done  by  birds.  Fruit  is  produced  freely  on  young  wood  of  the 
previous  j'ear,  therefore  all  that  is  necessary  is  to  leave  a  fair  amount  ol 
the  best  placed  shoots  all  over  the  trees.  Shoots  which  it  is  necessary  to 
cut  out  situated  on  the  older  branches  may  be  shortened  back  to  a  few 
buds  forming  short  fruit  spurs.  Cut  out  growths  descending  to  the 
ground,  or  any  that  crow  d  or  destroy  the  shape  of  trees.  Dustings  of 
soot  or  lime  will  prevent  the  buds  remaining  being  attacked  until  they 
break  into  growth,  when  they  are  safe. 
Pruning  Currants. — Red  and  White  Currants  should  also  be  pruned. 
Like  Gooseberries,  they  suffer  from  bird  attacks  if  not  protected.  With 
these  Currants  spur-pruning  is  a  necessity,  each  main  branch  having  all 
the  side  shoots  shortened  closely  back  to  the  small  spur  growths  or  buds 
clustered  at  the  base,  cutting  to  within  half  an  inch  of  the  origin  of  each 
shoot.  Should  the  leading  branch  require  to  be  extended  in  length  the 
shoot  forming  the  leader  must  be  shortened  to  a  length  of  6  to  9  inches. 
Adopt  the  same  plan  in  the  case  of  young  trees,  thus  gradually  extending 
the  branches  to  their  desired  length.  Strong  growths  near  the  base  may 
be  utilised,  if  necessary,  for  forming  new  branches  to  take  the  place  of 
any  worn  out. 
The  pruning  of  Black  Currants  is  not  usually  deferred,  as  the  buds  are 
not  so  subject  to  damage.  Bushes,  however,  which  do  need  pruning  now 
are  best  thinned  out,  leaving  vigorous  young  growths  for  furnishing  and 
forming  shapely  bushes,  and  to  produce  fruit. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Pines. —  Plants  Starting  into  Fruit. — Those  selected  about  the  beginning 
of  last  December,  and  started  by  an  advanced  temperature  and  an  increase 
of  moisture,  will  now  be  showing  fruit,  when  the  temperature  may  be 
maintained  at  65°  to  70°  at  night,  and  75°  to  80°  in  the  daytime  under 
favoirrable  circumstances,  ventilating  at  80°,  allowing  an  advance  to  85°  or 
90°,  and  closing  so  as  to  maintain  that  heat  from  sun  influence  as  much  as 
possible.  The  plants  will  require  more  water  at  the  roots,  examining  the 
stock  once  a  week,  as  with  increased  light  and  heat  the  need  for  water 
wilt  be  correspondingly  greater.  Recently  started  plants  to  follow  those 
already  named  should  have  a  night  temperature  of  65°  to  70°  by  day 
artificially,  which  will  be  sufficient  for  them  for  some  time  longer. 
Starting  AS'Mc/icrs.— These  will  have  to  be  started  at  the  commencement 
of  March  to  give  a  succession  of  fruit  from  next  December  onwards  ; 
therefore,  attend  to  the  preparation  of  the  soil  for  potting,  and  a  fermenting 
bed  in  some  close  structure  to  generate  and  maintain  a  bottom  heat  of 
85°  to  95°  near  the  surface,  and  with  means  of  maintaining  a  temperature 
55°  to  65°  by  fire  heat  in  the  atmosphei-e  with  regularity. 
Vines. — Early  Forced  in  Pols.— The  Vines  must  not  sustain  any  check 
either  through  dryness  at  the  roots  or  in  the  atmosphere.  If  the  roots 
cannot  have  the  run  of  fermenting  material,  place  strips  of  zinc  3  or 
4  inches  deep  round  the  top  of  the  pots,  inserting  them  just  within  the 
rim,  and  top-dress  with  rich  turfy  loam  and  decayed  manure  in  equal 
parts,  intermixed  with  a  handful  of  superphosphate  to  each  bushel 
of  loam  and  decayed  manure  in  equal  parts  ;  but  with  the  pots  plunged 
to  the  rim  in  fermenting  material,  strips  of  turf  about  3  inches 
thick  should  be  laid  over  the  rim  so  as  to  form  the  necessary 
dish.  Keep  the  Vines  well  watered  with  liquid  manure  a  few 
degrees  warmer  than  the  mean  of  the  house,  also  have  the  plunging 
material  moist,  especially  when  the  roots  are  allowed  to  find  their  way 
into  it  from  the  pots,  plenty  of  active  feeders  being  essential  to  well-filled 
berries.  Do  not,  however,  keep  the  soil  sodden,  but  allow  it  to  become 
fairly  dry,  then  afford  a  plentiful  supply. 
To  encourage  the  swelling  of  the  berries  keep  the  laterals  below  the 
fruit  somewhat  closely  pinched,  but  allow  those  above  the  bunches  more 
liberty,  avoiding  overcrowding  with  foliage  that  cannot  have  full  exposure 
to  light.  Also  be  careful  in  thinning  the  berries  and  in  ventilating,  taking 
care  not  to  brush  the  Grapes  with  the  hand,  and  to  avoid  cold  currents, 
as  both  cause  “  rust,”  hardening  the  epidermis,  so  that  the  berries  do  not 
afterwards  swell  freely,  and  in  some  cases  cracking  results.  Ventilate 
early  in  the  day,  affording  a  little  air  at  70°,  increasing  it  with  the  sun 
heat  to  85°,  and  closing  early  so  as  to  secure  a  temperature  of  85°  to  90°. 
Keep  a  sharp  look  out  for  red  spider,  and  let  the  first  specks  on  the  leaves 
be  promptly  sponged  with  weak  softsoap  and  water.  An  ammoniated 
atmosphere  has  a  good  effect  on  red  spider,  the  best  being  that  of  stable 
drainings,  diluted,  when  neat,  with  about  five  parts  water,  using  about  a 
gallon  to  10  square  yards  of  paths  and  walls.  Painting  the  hot-water 
pipes  with  sulphur  brought  to  the  consistency  of  thin  cream  with  skim 
milk  is  an  antidote  to  red  spider  and  mildew,  but  the  pipes  must  only  be 
lightly  coated,  and  not  heated  much  over  170°. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Vines. — Houses  closed  in  November,  and  the 
Vines  started  early  in  December,  will  need  to  have  the  berries  thinned  as 
soon  as  set,  or  not  later  than  when  it  can  be  seen  which  have,  been 
properly  fertilised  by  their  taking  the  lead  in  swelling.  Tolerate  no 
