March  3,  1898. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTIGULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
199 
growths,  tendrils,  bad  leaves  and  blossoms.  Ventilate  early  and  carefully, 
avoiding  draughts  and  depressions  of  temperature. 
Cucumbers  and  Melons  in  Pits  and  Frames. — The  plants  should  have  the 
primary  growth  stopped  at  the  second  leaf  before  or  after  planting  out, 
and  the  resulting  shoots  again  pinched  at  a  similar  extent  of  growth,  then 
allow  the  growths  to  extend  a  foot  or  more  before  again  pinching,  and 
stop  the  thus  divided  shoots  at  I  foot  from  the  sides  of  the  frames.  The 
plants  will  show  fruit  plentifully  under  such  circumstances,  and  then 
stopping  one  joint  beyond  the  show  will  throw  vigour  into  the  fruits. 
Little  water  will  be  required,  nevertheless  maintain  the  soil  in  a  moist 
state.  Cover  the  lights  with  double  mats  at  night,  and  see  that  the 
linings  are  regularly  attended  to,  renewing  as  required.  Prepare  materials 
for  making  fresh  beds  and  linings.  Three  parts  Oak,  Spanish  Chestnut, 
or  Beech  leaves  and  one  part  stable  litter  make  the  best  beds  at  this  time 
of  year.  In  a  few  days  there  will  be  warmth  in  the  materials  after 
mixing  and  moistening  ;  if  not,  turn  the  whole,  sprinkling  with  water  or 
liquid  manure,  so  as  to  moisten  the  mass,  and  when  in  good  heat  turn  the 
heap  outside  to  inside,  two  turnings  being  necessary  at  intervals  of  about 
four  days  to  secure  sweetened  material.  Maintain  the  bottom  heat  at  85° 
to  90°,  taking  care,  however,  to  prevent  overheating. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines.  —  Early  Forced  House.  —  The  fine  forcing 
weather  has  improved  the  fruit  wonderfully,  it  being  well  advanced  in  the 
first  swelling,  and  the  very  early  varieties  near  commencement  of  the 
stoning  process.  Early  and  gradual  thinning  having  been  attended  to, 
there  will  be  little  more  than  the  necessary  r^uantity.  Vigorous  trees  are 
the  most  uncertain  in  stoning,  as  they  are  prone  to  rush  into  wood 
growth,  and  then  throw  off  the  fruit.  The  l>est  remedy  for  this  is  lifting, 
thus  concentrating  the  forces  on  reproduction.  Keep  the  temperature 
during  the  stoning  process  as  equable  as  possible,  as  sudden  checks  by 
draughts  of  cold  air  in  the  daytime  and  too  high  a  temperature  in  the 
night  may  prove  disastrous.  The  night  temperature  may  range  from  60° 
to  65°,  but  5°  less  is  safer,  particularly  in  severe  weather,  and  in  the 
daytime  70°  to  75°  with  sun  heat,  and  about  65°  by  artificial  means  when 
the  atmosphere  outside  is  cold  and  the  sky  overcast.  Secure  the  growing 
shoots  to  the  trellis  as  they  advance,  keeping  those  retained  to  attract 
the  sap  to  the  fruit  stopped  at  the  second  or  third  joint.  Red  spider  must 
be  kept  in  check  by  syringing  with  water  at  the  same  temperature  as  the 
house,  andiflirown  aphis  or  thrips  appear  fumigate  carefully  when  the 
foliage  is  quite  dry.  Take  care  that  the  soil  does  not  become  too  dry. 
Succession  Houses. — Disbudding  and  tying-in  must  be  attended  to  before 
the  growths  become  too  long,  disbudding  gradually.  If  the  fruits  have 
set  thickly — more  than  a  dozen  on  a  foot  length  of  shoot — thin  them  soon 
after  the  remains  of  the  blossoms  are  cast,  removing  the  smallest  fruits, 
those  on  the  under  side  of  the  branches,  and  those  badly  placed,  leaving 
three  to  five  of  the  best.  These  in  turn  should  be  reduced  to  two  or 
three  when  not  larger  than  marbles,  and  finally  to  one  or  two,  this 
thinning  taking  place  when  the  fruit  is  the  size  of  Walnuts.  The  tempe¬ 
rature  may  then  be  raised  to  55°  to  60°  at  night,  and  60°  to  65°  by  day, 
from  fire  heat,  ventilating  from  65°,  and  insuring  75°  from  sun  heat, 
closing  moderately  early  in  the  afternoon,  but  avoiding  a  close  atmosphere. 
Strawberries  in  Pots. — The  earliest  plants  now  ripening  their  fruit 
should  have  a  drier  and  more  freely  ventilated  house,  but  there  must  be 
no  sudden  change  or  the  fruit  will  not  finish  well.  For  swelling  the 
temperature  should  be  65°  at  night,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day,  advancing  to 
80 , 85°,  or  90°  with  sun,  and  plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture,  and  after 
the  fruit  changes  colour  the  atmosphere  should  be  kept  cooler  and  drier, 
so  as  to  insure  flavour.  The  second  early  plants  having  set  the  fruit  and 
been  thinned,  a  matter  too  frequently  neglected,  will  be  swelling  freely, 
as  the  thinning  enables  the  plants  to  produce  fine  fruit.  Half  a  dozen 
berries  of  even  and  large  size  are  better  than  a  dozen  small ;  but  regard 
must  be  had  to  the  variety,  for  half  a  dozen  on  La  Grosse  Sucr4e,  still 
unsurpassed  as  the  surest  very  early  forcer,  has  its  equivalent  in  a  dozen 
on  Vicomtesse  H^ricart  de  Thury,  Royal  Sovereign  requiring  about  the 
same  amount  of  thinning.  Give  liquid  manure  copiously  as  often  as 
required,  examining  the  plants  twice,  and  in  bright  weather  three  times  a 
day  for  the  purpose. '  Plants  in  vineries  and  Peach  houses  come  on 
successionally,  and  need  not  be  moved  except  to  meet  special  requirements. 
Strawberries  of  the  larger  varieties  placed  in  cool  lean-to  or  span-roofed 
houses  or  frames  afford  grand  fruits  a  fortnight  to  three  weeks  earlier 
than  those  in  the  open  ground. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Jerusalem  Artichokes. — Thanks  to  the  mildness  of  the  winter  green 
vegetables  have  been  plentiful,  and  there  has  been  less  demand  for  Arti¬ 
chokes.  Another  season  the  case  may  be  different,  and  there  ought  to  be 
no  neglect  in  planting  as  many  roots  as  usual  this  month.  Too  often 
Artichokes  are  left  on  the  same  plot  of  ground  year  after  year  ;  not 
replanted,  but  allowed  to  spring  up  thinly  and  irregularly,  with  the  result 
that  the  crops  are  light  and  the  tubers  of  poor  quality.  They  ought  to 
have  fresh  ground,  preferably  a  plot  outside  of  a  walled-in  garden,  and 
this  should  be  prepared  .as  carefully  and  thoroughly  as  for  Potatoes. 
Open  drills  6  inches  deep  and  3  feet  apart,  and  in  these  plant  either 
medium  sized  tuber  or  sets  formed  by  cutting  strong  tubers,  arranging 
them  1  foot  asunder.  All  that  is  further  necessary  is  to  hoe  among  the 
plants  when  well  through  the  ground,  and  to  mould  up  Potato  fashion. 
Any  tubers  not  wanted  for  planting  ought  now  to  be  lifted,  cleared  of 
sprouts,  and  stored  in  sand  at  the  foot  of  a  north  wall  or  fence  for 
future  use. 
Borecole. — These  are  early  running  to  seed,  and  if  neglected  will  soon 
be  of  no  further  service.  The  young  shoots  ought  to  be  gathered 
frequently,  this  causing  the  formation  of  later  supplies,  and  which  will 
most  probably  be  found  acceptable.  Asparagus  or  Buda  Kale  are 
frequently  of  the  most  value  in  May,  but  will  not  give  succulent  “greens” 
so  late  unless  kept  closely  gathered  from  in  March  and  April.  Borecole 
requires  a  rather  a  long  period  of  growth,  but  if  the  seed  is  sown  in  the 
oi)en  ground  during  this  month  the  plants  will  usually  be  forward 
enough  for  putting  out  by  the  time  the  ground  is  ready  for  their 
reception. 
Brussels  Sprouts. — The  sprouts  on  these  must  also  be  kept  closely 
gathered,  or  otherwise  the  supply  will  soon  fail.  Those  who  have  deferred 
cutting  the  hearts  will  find  some  close  sprouts  among  the  lower  leaves,  or 
enough  to  form  good  dishes.  Since  the  introduction  of  improved  strains 
there  is  less  need  to  raise  the  plants  so  early  as  formerly,  but  if  seed  is 
sown  now,  either  in  boxes  or  beds  inside  frames,  abundance  of  plants 
.suitable  for  pricking  out  on  sheltered  borders  in  April  should  result. 
Where  close  cropping  is  practised  the  plan  of  arranging  short-topped 
early  maturing  varieties  of  Potatoes  3  feet  apart,  and  planting  Brussels 
Sprouts  midway  between  the  Potatoes  directly  after  they  have  been 
moulded  up,  is  recommended  for  adoption.  If  Veitch's  Autumn  or  other 
early  Broccoli  are  sown  with  the  Brussels  Sprouts,  and  treated  similarly, 
the  plants  will  produce  superior  hearts  in  close  succession  to  autumn 
Cauliflowers. 
Cauliflowers. — The  autumn-raised  plants  are  somewhat  forward,  and 
those  not  well  established  under  hand-lights  will  not  transplant  readily. 
The  smaller  plants  in  frames  or  seed  beds  would  experience  the  least 
check  when  finally  planted  out  if  first  established  in  small  pots  under 
glass.  Any  raised  early  this  year  ought  to  be  quite  large  enough  for 
pricking  into  boxes,  or  for  placing  either  singly  in  2|-inch  pots  or  in  pairs 
in  4-inch  pots.  Sink  the  stems  in  good  loamy  soil,  and  arrange  the 
plants  not  far  from  the  glass  in  gentle  heat.  Before  they  become  badly 
root-bound  all  ought  to  be  hardened  somewhat,  and  planted  either  in 
rough  frames,  hand-lights,  at  the  foot  of  sunny  walls,  or  on  warm  borders 
where  they  can  be  roughly  protected. 
Carrots. — If  the  first  favourable  opportunity  is  taken  of  sowing  seed 
of  an  early  Horn  variety  on  a  light  or  well  prepared  south  border,  this 
may  result  in  the  production  of  numerous  early  pullings  of  tender  young 
roots.  A  close  look  out  should  be  kept  for  the  plants,  dusting  these  over 
with  soot  and  lime  directly  they  show  through  the  soil,  repeating  the 
dose  occasionally  to  save  them  from  slugs.  The  seed  would  germinate 
more  surely  and  quickly  if  given  the  benefit  of  a  little  bottom  heat.  It 
is  not  yet  too  late  to  form  a  shallow  hotbed  of  fresh  and  partially 
exhausted  leaves  and  stable  manure.  Surface  the  bed  with  about 
6  inches  of  fine  sandy  soil,  enclosing  this  with  boards.  Sow  the  seed 
thinly,  roughly  protecting  with  mats  or  trebled  fish  netting  supported 
by  stakes. 
Onions. — The  most  economical,  and  in  the  end  the  most  profitable 
method  of  culture,  is  to  raise  all  the  plants  required  in  boxes  under 
glass  early  in  the  year,  and  to  plant  out  on  well  prepared  ground  when 
they  are  about  4  inches  high.  Not  having  sown  the  reejuisite  amount  -of 
seed  in  the  manner  indicated,  an  early  opportunity  should  be  taken  of 
sowing  in  the  usual  way,  late  raised  plants  frequently  failing  to  mature 
properly.  Onions  ought  to  have  a  site  that  has  been  early  manured,  and 
either  trenched  or  dug  in  time  for  the  soil  to  be  pulverised  by  the 
action  of  drying  winds,  frosts,  sunshine,  and  rain.  If  it  can  Vie  got  into 
a  finely  divided  state  without  any  extra  trouble  the  manuring  and  digging 
may  be  deferred  to  nearer  sowing  time  with  advantage.  After  having 
made  the  bed  fine  to  a  good  depth,  give  a  surfacing  of  one  peck  of 
soot  per  square  rod  to  the  heavier  soils,  and  to  light,  less  retentive 
ground  that  amount  of  soot,  4  lbs.  of  common  salt,  and  a  bushel  or  more 
of  gritty  road  scrapings  per  rod.  Stir  these  dressings  into  the  surface 
with  a  fork,  trample  the  ground,  level,  and  make  a  fine  surface  with  a 
rake  ;  then  draw  drills  half  an  inch  deep,  and  not  too  narrow,  sowing  the 
seed  thinly,  but  not  in  a  fine  line  in  these,  fix  with  the  foot,  and  smooth 
over  with  a  rake.  Onions  will  pay  well  for  this  extra  trouble,  the  soot 
and  salt  in  addition  to  being  good  fertilisers  also  acting  as  preventives  of 
the  Onion  maggot. 
Herbs. — Perennial  herbs  pay  for  replanting  every  second  or  third 
year.  If  a  change  of  border  cannot  be  afforded,  lift  all  the  plants,  manure 
the  ground  freely,  and  dig  deeply  prior  to  dividing  and  replanting  the 
herbs.  Sow  seed  of  tbe  hardier  annual  kinds,  and  also  Thyme  and  Sage. 
[HE  BEE-KEEPER.^ 
- 1  -  I -TvrJ~  ^  f/a 
Notes  on  Bee  Management. 
In  his  endeavour  to  withdraw  from  the  untenable  position  in 
which  he  is  put,  “  G.  II.”  attempts  to  place  the  saddle  on  the  wrong 
horse,  and  in  doing  so,  although  evidently  unaware  of  the  fact, 
corroborates  what  we  have  stated  in  these  columns  on  several 
occash  ns — namely,  that  many  bees  are  lost  whilst  on  the  wing  during 
inclement  weather,  anel  through  various  other  causes.  These  may  be 
briefly  referred  to  here,  as  being  applicable  to  this  season.  Although 
the  weather  has  been  exceptionally  mild,  there  is  now  every  appear¬ 
ance  of  a  cold  spell  of  weather  setting  in,  and  in  that  case,  as  was 
lately  explained,  bees  that  are  placed  in  large  hives,  and  have  been 
encouraged  to  breed  during  the  winter,  will  on  the  appeannee  of 
severe  frost  gradually  contract  their  cluster,  and  if  the  brood  nest  has 
been  unreasonably  enlarged  many  bees  will  be  lost. 
