March  10,  1898. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
219 
A  DAY  IN  OLD  ORCHARDS. 
On  page  26,  January  13th,  I  gave  such  advice  as  seemed  called 
for  under  the  circumstances  in  dealing  with  two  out  of  five  orchards 
that  were  visited,  reserving  further  observations  on  the  other  three. 
When  it  is  possible  to  improve  old  fruit  trees  it  is  wise  to  do  so,  in 
order  that  they  may  afford  supplies  of  the  best  fruit  they  are  capable 
of  producing  until  the  young  trees,  which  should  always  be  planted 
at  the  time  of  renovating  the  old,  attain  a  fruitful  condition. 
Making  a  clean  sweep  of  all  old  trees  because  they  are  not  capable  of 
bearing  anything  like  first  class  fruit  has  often  proved  a  mistake.  On 
the  principle  that  half  a  loaf  is  better  than  no  bread,  so  is  a  supply 
of  second  or  even  third-rate  Apples  for  cooking  better  than  none  at 
all  in  establishments  where  a  considerable  bulk  is  needed  for  con¬ 
sumption. 
No.  3  Orchard  Avas  very  much  like  No.  1,  described  on  the  page 
above  quoted.  A  grove  of  trees  on  one  side  was  pronounced 
worthy  of  thinning  and  cleansing  if  the  varieties  were  fairly  good, 
but  if  not,  work  would  be  wasted  on  them,  and  grafting  some  of  the 
healthier  would  be  preferable.  The  body  of  the  enclosure  consisting 
of  trees,  practically  “  eaten  to  death  ”  with  canker,  would  pay  far 
the  best  by  clearing  entirely,  adding  basic  slag,  kainit  (or  wood  ashes), 
and  deep  cultivation  as  previously  advised. 
If  planted  with  standard  Apples,  it  would  be  desirable  to  choose 
strong  or  free  growers,  such  as  Alfriston,  Bramley’s  Seedling,  Lord 
Derby,  Golden  Noble,  Warner’s  King,  and  Newton  Wonder  for  cooking, 
with  Blenheim  Pippin,  Devonshire  Quarrenden,  Cox’s  Orange  Pippin, 
Gascoyne’s  Scarlet,  and  Cockle’s  Pippin  for  eating,  planting  them 
30  feet  apart,  with  Plums  half  that  distance  asunder  between  them. 
Plums  olten  succeed  better  on  the  site  of  an  old  Apple  orchard  than 
Apples  do,  but  strong  growing  varieties  in  deeply  worked  and  fortified 
soil  often  answer  very  well. 
No.  4  Orchard. — Site  wet;  young  trees  making  long  annual  shoots 
should  be  carefully-dug  up  and  replanted  in  fresh  soil  containing  lime 
and  burnt  refuse,  the  roots  spread  out  on  the  surface  level  of  the 
present  ground  or  slightly  above  it,  and  Avhen  covered  to  stand  on 
mounds.  The  surface  of  the  ground  ought  to  be  kept  free  from 
grass  and  mulched  with  manure  on  the  approach  of  hot  dry  Aveather, 
not  before,  leaving  the  material  to  decay.  Basic  slag  and  Avood  ashes 
would  act  beneficially.  The  long  young  branches  ought  to  be  shortened 
to  effect  a  balance  Avith  the  shortened  roots ;  then  if  the  trees  were 
kept  clear  and  surface  rooting  encouraged  by  summer  mulchings 
improvement  would  certainly  follow. 
No.  5  Orchard. — No,  not  quite  an  orchard,  but  large  individual 
trees  of  Eibston  Pippin  and  Cockle’s  Pippin,  isolated  in  a  meadow  or 
pasture.  They  are  large  and  old,  but  capable  of  material  improvement 
by  the  removal  of  a  great  amount  of  worthless  wood,  cleansing  the 
remainder,  and  nourishing  the  roots.  The  branches  have  probably 
been  thinned  at  some  time,  and  the  bristling  shoots  resulting  allowed 
to  struggle  with  each  other  till  the  trees  are  mere  thickets.  The 
resources  of  the  soil  have  been  spent  on  a  mass  of  wood  that  not  only 
could  give  no  return  in  fruit,  but  had  deprived  the  other  jAarts,  Avhich 
had  forced  themselves  out  of  the  crowd,  of  sustenance. 
As  TO  Pruning. — Superfluous  branches  should  not  be  shortened, 
but  cut  out  close  to  the  main  stems,  and  when  a  saw  is  used 
paring  smoothly  after  it  Avith  a  sharp  knife.  The  whole  of  the 
interior  wood  ought  to  come  out,  and  only  those  parts  retained  the 
leaves  of  which  are  fully  and  directly  exposed  to  the  action  of  light. 
There  should  be  absolutely  nothing  between  them  and  the  firmament. 
That  is  a  very  important  matter.  Leaves  made  in  the  interior  of  a 
tree  are  worse  than  useless.  If  the  winter  pruning  has  not  been 
sufficient  for  preventing  summer  crowding,  thin  out  further  when  the 
trees  are  in  leaf. 
Spring  Disbudding. — When  several  branches  have  been  removed 
from  the  interior  of  trees  in  winter — cut  off  close  to  the  main  stems  as 
above  indicated— in  all  probability  about  the  end  of  April,  or  later, 
clusters  of  fresh  growths  will  push  from  round  the  pruning  “  cuts.” 
It  is  imperative  that  these  clustering  growths  be  rubbed  out  when 
tbey  are  an  inch  or  so  long,  or  the  trees  will  soon  be  as  much 
choked  with  useless  wood  as  before.  These ‘interior  growths  are 
robbers,  as  they  divert  the  nutriment  supplied  by  the  roots  from  the 
exposed  branchlets,  where  alone  it  can  be  turned  to  profitable  account 
in  the  production  and  development  of  fruit; 
As  TO  Cleansing. — Not  the  main  stems  alone,  but  the  small 
branchlets  to  the  very  tips  should  be  cleansed  of  all  incrustations. 
This  can  be  done  in  two  ways — 1,  Washing  the  trunks  and  main 
stems  with  brine  or  tolerably  hot  limewash ;  then,  before  the  buds 
swell,  dusting  all  other  parts  Avith  newly  slaked  lime  when  the 
trees  are  dripping  with  Avet  on  a  calm  misty  morning.  A  man 
and  ladder,  with  a  basket  of  lime  in  one  hand,  with  the  other  dashes 
th«  Lme  among  the  branches — upwards,  downwards,  sideways,  every- 
vvnere,  driving  it  well  among  the  spurs  and  buds.  This  adheres,  and 
the  rubbish  peels  off,  while  the  lime  Avhich  falls  to  the  ground  during 
the  application  is  there  beneficial.  That  is  one  Avay,  and  though  good  j 
is  not  the  cleanest  for  the  worker.  Another  and  an  excellent  method 
of  cleansing  trees  is  as  folio avs  : — 
Caustic  Wash. — For  making  10  gallons,  the  original  plan,  which 
has  answered  well,  was  to  dissolve  1  lb.  each  of  caustic  soda  and 
pearlash,  and  mix  in  the  above  quantity  of  water.  Another  method  of 
preparation,  described  by  Mr.  Cousins  in  his  “  Chemistry  of  the 
Garden  ”  Primer,  has  been  found  by  him  still  more  satisfactory.  It  is 
made  by  first  dissolving  1  lb.  of  the  caustic  (commercial)  soda  in  a 
pail  half  filled  with  Avater,  then  stirring  into  the  liquid  three-quarters 
pound  of  crude  carbonate  of  potash  (pearlash),  diluting  the  whole  to 
10  gallons,  and  lastly  adding  10  ozs.  of  softsoap,  dissolved  in  hot  water, 
stirring  vigorously  to  effect  a  complete  mixture.  As  it  is  injurious  to 
both  clothes  and  skin,  any  old  garments  suffice  during  application, 
and  the  hands  should  be  protected.  It  is  best  distributed  on  a  very 
still  day  in  the  form  of  a  mist-like  spray,  forced  from  a  knapsack 
pump.  A  syringe  can  be  used  with  a  very  fine  nozzle,  but  occupies 
far  more  time,  and  wastes  much  material.  The  solution  should  rest 
on  every  part  of  the  branches  and  twigs  like  dew,  not  run  off  them 
like  rain.  It  destroys  parasitic  growths,  and  the  eggs  of  most  insects. 
In  bad  cases  two  sprayings  may  be  needed,  the  second  just  as  there  are 
signs  of  bud-swelling.  When  once  the  trees  are  clean  one  spraying 
annually  will  keep  them  free  from  many  destructive  insect  pests. 
Root  Nourishment. — This  is  very  important  for  assisting 
enfeebled  trees.  Different  methods  are  resorted  to.  The  quickest  is 
liquid  manure,  applied  at  any  time  when  it  will  sink  into  the  ground 
when  the  soil  is  not  dry.  It  can  be  given  stronger,  and  with  great 
benefit,  during  suitable  weather  in  winter  and  spring  than  in  the 
summer.  Pouring  liquid  manure  into  dry  soil  is AA^astetul,  and  maybe 
injurious.  The  soil  is  generally  in  the  right  condition  when  trees  are 
swelling  their  buds. 
Stable  and  farmyard  drainage  is  good  ;  failing  this  or  seAverage,  a 
solution  of  good  guano,  at  the  rate  of  an  ounce  to  a  gallon  of  Avater,  is 
nourishing.  According  to  analysis,  Chinchas  Peruvian  Guano  is  the 
best  in  the  market  (advertised  by  the  Anglo-Continental  Company, 
30,  Mark  Lane,  London).  Not  less  than  5  gallons  of  liquid  should 
be  poured  into  each  square  yard  from  the  stem  outwards  beyond  the 
spread  of  the  branches  for  acting  beneficially  on  stunted  trees  in 
impoverished  ground. 
Fresh  Soil. — This  is  of  great  value  if  brought  Avithin  reach  of  the 
roots.  A  good  method  of  effecting  this  is  by  making  a  number  of 
deep  and  Avide  holes  with  a  crowbar,  18  inches  apart  all  ever  the 
ground,  that  the  branches  of  a  tree  cover,  then  well  pressing  down  in 
them  fresh  loam,  containing  a  sixth  part  of  wood  ashes  and  one  shovelful 
of  basic  slag  to  about  fifty  of  soil.  It  ought  to  be  just  moist  enough  for 
compression.  If  liquid  manure  were  poured  in  the  holes  prior  to  filling 
them  with  soil,  the  combination  would  be  bound  to  do  much  good. 
Root-pruning. — This  is  usually  resorted  to  as  the  best  of  all 
methods  for  subduing  the  growth  of  over-luxuriant  trees,  but  if 
rightly  practised,  may  benefit  the  enfeebled.  Cutting  the  root*  of 
these  near  the  stems,  however,  Avould  lead  to  further  enfeeblement. 
They  must  be  cut  some  distance  from  them  by  digging  out  a  Avide 
trench  2  feet  deep  or  more  nearly  as  far  as  the  branches  spread,  cutting 
smooth  with  a  knife  the  ends  of  the  spade-chopped  roots  from  the 
under  side  upwards.  Then  by  filling  the  trench  with  some  fresh  soil 
and  a  liberal  amount  of  manure,  with  a  sprinkling  of  basic  slag,  and 
any  quantity  of  burnt  and  decayed  vegetable  refuse,  pressing  the  whole 
down  firmly,  the  emission  of  feeding  roots  would  be  incited  and  the 
growth  of  the  trees  consequently  improved,  as  is  the  case  through  neAv 
roots  taking  possession  of  new  soil  in  the  holes  above  mentioned.  If 
roots  cannot  be  found  where  the  circular  trench  is  made,  dig  back  till 
a  goodly  number  are  met  Avith  of  the  thickness  of  the  finger  to  that  of 
a  stout  walking  stick,  and  treat  as  directed.  This  is  best  done  when 
the  leaves  are  falling  in  the  autumn,  but  fresh  soil  may  be  given  by 
the  crowbar  method  at  any  time.  It  has  proved  highly  beneficial  to 
numbers  of  old  trees. 
No.  6  Orchard. — Soil  too  cold  and  strong.  ^  The  larger  trees,  but 
not  old,  require  cleansing,  and  some  a  little  thinning.  Young  trees 
making  Willow -like  growth  Avould  be  improved  by  carefully  replant¬ 
ing  as  advised  for  orchard  4,  adding  fresh  lighter  soil,  and  mulching 
thickly  in  early  summer,  the  manure  to  remain  and  decay.  Let  the 
grass  be  dug  from  round  other  young  trees,  adding  fresh  soil,  contain¬ 
ing  lime  or  basic  slag.  Leave  the  surface  exposed,  for  the  sun  to 
warm  the  soil,  stirring  it  occasionally ;  then,  on  the  approach  of  dry 
summer  weather,  spread  on  a  covering  of  somewhat  lumpy  manure — 
not  a  close  plaster.  This  is  to  prevent  the  soil  cracking  and  drying 
near  the  surface,  Avhich  causes  the  roots  to  strike  downward  for 
moisture  in  the  cold  sour  subsoil,  the  resulting  growth  being  then, 
however  strong  it  may  appear,  of  an  essentially  unhealthy  and 
unfruitful  character. — Adviser. 
Importance  of  Change  of  Ground  for  Peas. — Peas  are  a  crop 
which  do  not  succeed  well  year  after  year  on  the  same  soil.  This  is 
because  nitrogen  accumulates  in  the  soil,  and  though  plenty  of  haulm 
and  leafage  may  be  developed,  the  production  of  seed  is  not  large. — S. 
