March  17,  1898. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
233 
Plants  obtained  direct  from  nurserymen  are  ready  potted,  and  need 
not  be  disturbed  until  they  have  flowered  once  or  twice.  Most 
growers  desire  to  increase  the  size  of  their  plants.  A  shift  into  good 
soil  will  encourage  free  growth,  but  it  must  not  be  overdone,  a  pot 
two  sizes  larger  being  ample.  In  potting  Azaleas  it  is  important  that 
the  pots  be  clean  and  firm.  Those  that  are  cracked,  even  slightly, 
ought  not  to  be  used,  for  this  particular  reason,  that  a  stronger  pot  is 
necessary  when  potting  the  Azalea  than  for  most  other  plants,  because 
the  compost  must  be  pressed  down  hard,  and  it  is  only  good  pots  that 
can  withstand  the  strain  put  upon  them.  It  is  very  annoying  to 
reach  half-way  through  the  process  of  potting  a  particular  plant,  then 
the  pot  snaps  in  two,  and  the  work  has  to  be  repeated.  When  this 
has  happened  a  feVv  times  to  the  operator  the  importance  of  using 
sound  pots  is  forced  upon  him. 
A  plant  intended  to  be  transferred  to  a  larger  pot  should  be  in  a 
medium  state  of  moisture,  neither  too  wet  nor  too  dry.  If  the  plant 
to  be  potted  is  small  the  crocks  at  the  base  can  be  easily  removed  by 
picking  them  out  from  among  the  roots.  Large  plants,  when  turned 
out  of  their,  pots,  are  usually  very  much  pot-bound,  with  the  roots 
entirely  enclosing  the  drainage.  The  best  plan  with  these,  therefore, 
is  to  obtain  a  strong  carving  knife,  cutting  through  the  ball  just 
above  the  line  of  drainage,  this  detaching  the  crocks  and  reducing  the 
height  of  the  ball  of  roots,  making  it  easier  to  place  in  the  new  pot. 
The  compost  specially  enjoyed  by  the  Azalea  in  its  younger  stages  is 
two-thirds  sweet  turfy  peat  pulled  to  pieces  (not  chopped)  and  one- 
third  loam  of  the  same  character.  Add  a  fair  proportion  of  white 
sand  and  broken  charcoal,  well  incorporating  the  whole.  For  large 
plants  peat  and  loam  in  equal  quantities  form  the  best  staple  materials, 
adding  also  sand  and  charcoal.  The  latter  acts  as  a  sweetener,  and 
helps  to  retain  porosity  with  the  sand.  When  mixing  it  is  desirable 
to  have  the  compost  in  a  healthfully  moist  condition  when  used, 
though  care  must  be  taken  not  to  have  it  too  moist  on  account  of 
the  compression  required. 
^Arrange  the  crocks  in  the  pots  very  carefully,  first  placing  over  the 
hole  or  holes  large  pieces  with  a  slightly  concave  face,  which  is  placed 
downwards ;  over  these  a  layer  of  equal  sized  pieces,  then  one  of  fine 
crocks.  Perfect  drainage  is  very  essential,  and  it  is  not  the  amount 
used,  but  the  carefulness  in  arranging  that  which  is  employed,  which 
admits  of  water  escaping  freely,  yet  preventing  the  crocks  being  choked 
with  soil.  Finish  the  whole  %  placing  a  layer  of  turfy  peat  free  from 
dust  or  small  particles  over  the  top  layer  of  crocks. 
The  plant  may  then  be  introduced.  If  it  prove  to  be  too  low  in 
the  pot,  introduce  some  compost,  making  it  firm  ;  if  too  high,  reduce 
the  size  of  the  ball  by  slicing  off  the  bottom  to  the  desired  extent.  I 
would  not  even  hesitate  to  take  off  a  few  slices  from  the  sides  if 
necessary.  Use  judgment  in  this,  however,  as  it  is  inadvisable  to 
destroy  a  mass  of  healthy  roots  if  it  can  be  avoided.  Sufiicient  room 
must  be  left  above  the  surface  of  the  ball  and  below  the  rim  of  the 
pot  to  admit  some  fresh  compost  and  leave  room  for  watering. 
Having  adjusted  the  ball  of  roots  properly,  proceed  to  introduce  the 
compost  equally  all  round,  ramming  each  layer  down  firmly  with  the 
blunt  end  of  a  potting  stick.  Fill  in  more,  and  treat  in  the  same  way 
until  finished.  The  new  compost  must  be  made  as  firm  as  the  old 
ball.  This  is  important,  because  if  left  looser  the  water  will  pass 
through  the  new  soil  without  penetrating  the  old.  It  is  absolutely 
necessary  that  the  soil  is  made  firm,  fine  hair-like  roots,  such  as 
Azaleas  have,  always  needing  a  firm  medium. 
After  potting  stand  the  plants  in  a  moist,  shady  temperature, 
syringing  them  frequently,  but  not  giving  any  water  for  some 
days,  A  supply  may  then  be  given  of  the  same  temperature  as  the 
structure  in  which  the  plants  are  growing,  giving  enough  to  moisten 
the  whole.  No  more  ought  to  be  required  then  for  some  time.  The 
daily  syringings  will  keep  the  plants  moist  and  encourage  the  produc¬ 
tion  of  new  roots.  As  the  growth  proceeds  and  approaches  completion 
more  air  must  be  given,  and  when  the  foliage  is  sufficiently  hardened 
and  the  buds  begin  to  set,  the  plants  should  have  the  coolest  and 
airiest  position  possible  under  glass,  finally  moving  to  a  sheltered  place 
outdoors  to  fully  perfect  and  ripen  the  growth.  See  that  newly  potted 
plants  do  not  become  saturated  with  moisture  when  outdoors.  If  there 
is  any  risk  likely  in  this  respect  it  would  be  best  to  keep  them  in  a 
cool  house  or  frame,  or  where  protection  can  be  afforded  during  more 
than  usually  wet  periods.  Finally  house  the  plants  in  September, 
placing  them  in  a  cold  house  where  abundance  of  air  is  admitted,  .so 
that  they  are  kept  completely  at  rest. 
I  will  next  refer  to  the  treatment  of  established  plants  in  pots, 
such  as  have  not  been  repotted  for  some  years.  After  the  flowering  period 
is  over  in  the  spring  or  early  summer  clip  away  all  the  flower  stalks 
without  damaging  the  young  growth.  Unless  it  is  desired  to  have 
the  plants  in  flower  earlier  another  year,  no  special  treatment  is 
necessary  to  forward  the  growth  which  may  be  made  in  an  ordinary 
greenhouse,  occasionally  syringing  the  plants  to  aid  growth,  and  to 
refresh  and  cleanse  them  from  dust,  as  well  as  avoiding  attacks  of  red 
spider  and  thrips.  When  the  growth  becomes  mature,  which  will  be 
in  July,  take  the  plants  outdoors,  standing  them  in  a  favourable 
position  on  a  bed  of  ashes,  protecting  also  from  cold  rough  winds. 
Watering  must  be  strictly  attended  to,  examining  the  plants  frequently 
to  ascertain  their  condition,  affording  an  adequate  supply  when  the 
necessity  arises,  which  sometimes  will  be  every  day,  at  other  times 
several  days  may  elapse  without  watering. 
Before  the  plants  are  housed  it  is  desirable  that  they  be  examined 
for  thrips,  this  pest  attacking  the  foliage,  chiefly  on  the  under  sides, 
and  doing  much  damage  if  not  checked.  This  insect  abstracts  the 
juices  from  the  leaves,  discolouring  them,  and  causing  their  fall,  thus 
leaving  the  plants  bare  and  unsightly.  Thrips  may  be  destroyed  by 
dipping  the  plants  in  a  solution  of  softsoap,  2  or  3  ozs.  to  the  gallon 
of  water.  If  dipping  is  not  possible  owing  to  the  size  of  the  plants, 
lay  them  on  their  side  and  syringe  every  part  thoroughly. 
fl'he  best  time  to  commence  forcing  the  Azalea  is  about  the  middle 
of  January,  choosing  the  white  varieties  Tor  the  purpose.  The  semi¬ 
doubles  are  best  for  cutting.  A.  amoena  is  one  of  the  best  for 
the  earliest  forcing,  and  may  be  started  in  December.  Deutche 
Perle  is  a  double  early,  and  blooms  with  scarcely  any  forcing 
if  the  growth  has  been  made  early.  Narcissiflora  is  almost  a 
constant  bloomer.  Alba  sinensis  is  also  a  good  forcing  variety  and 
one  of  the  oldest.  Other  good  varieties  are  A.  Borsig,  Stella,  Pauline 
Jardine,  Beauty  of  Surrey,  Admiration,  white,  with  crimson  flakes; 
Baco  de  Rose,  a  double  flower,  and  Flower  of  the  Day,  beautiful  clear 
white,  striped  with  rose.  There  are  numerous  other  varieties,  indeed 
it  is  scarcely  possible  to  grow  a  bad  variety  of  Azalea. — E.  D.  S. 
NAMES  AND  KINDS  OF  CARNATIONS. 
(.Continued  from  page  162). 
The  earliest  literature  of  the  Carnation  introduces  us  to  a  flower 
already  divided  into  sections.  Dodoeens  provides  engravings  of  a  large 
single  flower,  and  of  a  small  and  a  larger  double  bloom.  The  flowers 
were  white,  light  purple,  deep  red,  shades  between  white  and  purple, 
and  versicolor  varieties.  In  Steven’s  and  Liabaud’s  (1586  ed.)  “  La 
Maison  Rustique,”  the  colours  are  not  given ;  but  the  no  less  interesting 
information  is  accorded  that  varieties  were  numerous,  of  which  the  best 
were  broad,  tufted,  and  full,  also  cultivated  with  much  care.  These 
wei’e  called  Provence  Carnations.  A  section  composed  of  varieties  with 
smaller  flowers,  which  were  less  sweet,  received  less  generous  treatment, 
and  were  called  Rosette  Carnations.  The  forerunner  of  yellow  varieties 
appeared  in  England  shortly  previous  to  the  close  of  the  sixteenth 
century,  and  a  few  years  later  the  now  all  but  unknown  “  Painted 
Lady  ”  made  its  appearance. 
The  earliest  notice  of  the  Picotee  that  I  have  seen  is  in  1650,  when 
it  is  described  by  J.  Bauhine  as  a  white  flower  thickly  and  evenly 
spotted  with  blood  red.  In  1792,  as  described  by  Haddocks;  it  is  still 
spotted.  “The  colours,”  he  remarks,  “are  principally  yellow  and 
white  spotted ;  their  properties  are  the  same  as  the  other  kinds  (Carna¬ 
tions),  except  that  the  edges  of  the  petals  are  serrated  or  jagged,  and 
the  colour  is  dispersed  in  spots  where  the  others  are  striped.  Phillip 
Miller  states  that  “  Picquettes  are  spotted  (or  pounced  as  they  call 
it).”  Though  Picquettes  were  very  popular,  no  change  appears  to  have 
taken  place  in  the  form  and  quality  of  the  flowers  till  about  the  end  of 
last  century.  However,  during  the  first  thirty  or  forty  years  of  the 
present  century  the  transformation  of  the  flower  was  rapid  and 
complete. 
We  find  the  evolution  illustrated  in  coloured  drawings  of  the 
period.  Thus  in  “  The  Temple  of  Flora  ”  (1803-12)  two  Picquettes 
are  shown,  one  with  petals  roughly  marked  on  the  edges,  the  other 
much  like  a  fancy  Picotee  of  the  present  day.  A  pretty,  but  rough, 
edged  Picotee  appears  in  the  second  edition  (1810)  of  “Haddocks’ 
Florists’  Directory,”  and  in  “  The  Floricultural  Cabinet  ”  for  1835  a 
heavy  scarlet-edged  variety,  with  deep  yellow  ground,  as  well  as  a 
light-edged  white  flower,  is  printed.  Both  blooms  are  in  ground 
colour  quite  pure,  and  the  marking  of  the  edges  clearly  defined. 
In  1839  a  large  purple-edged  flower  named  Dr.  Horner  appears, 
and  the  various  distinctions  by  which  the  edged  Picotee  is  known  at 
the  present  day  had  then  already  been  made.  The  second  edition 
of  Hogg  “  On  the  Carnation  ”  (1822)  contains  a  coloured  plate  of  a 
yellowPicotee  with  petals  full  of  deep  serratures,  twisted  and  splashed  on 
the  yellow  with  many  colours.  Hogg’s  plants  at  this  time  were  imported 
from  the  Continent,  and  this  plate  is  extremely  interesting  as  showing  the 
kind  of  flower  cultivated  at  this  period  in  Germany,  France,  and  other 
Continental  countries.  It  is  noteworthy  that  the  Picotee  has  reached 
us  in  an  unbroken  line  of  descent  from  its  beginnings  in  the  seven¬ 
teenth  century.  Yellow  grounds  appear  to  have  been  popular  only 
by  fits  and  starts,  and  the  finest  forms  of  these  as  well  as  self-coloured 
yellows  existed  from  about  1830  to  1840.  In  Glenny’s  list  for  1844 
they  are  not  mentioned  at  all. 
“  Painted  Ladies,”  like  Picotees,  continued  for'  nearly  two  centuries 
