248 
jnURKAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
March  17,  1898. 
There  it  hangs,  a  lasting  reproof  to  indolence,  having  a  latent  power 
which  never  fails  to  inspire  one  with  renewed  resolves.  Only  last  week 
we  had  a  practical  representation  of  a  similar  scene,  when  a  good  old 
man  sought  to  encourage  his  young  friends  by  a  gentle  homily.  Shall 
we  accept  and  act  on  such  sound  advice,  and  thus  save  ourselves  from 
further  reproof  ?  Can  we  explain  why  “  only  half  a  dozen  bright  pens 
sustain  the  ‘  Young  Gardeners’  Domain  ?  ’  ”  « 
Many  seem  to  cling  to  the  advice  which  Burns  gave  to  a  young 
friend  : — 
“Conceal  yersel’  as  weel’s  ye  can 
Frae  critical  dissection.” 
Which  advice  they  seem  to  have  appropriated  and  acted  well  up  to. 
Others  forget  that  “  youth  comes  but  once  in  a  lifetime,”  or  that  “  a  bad 
ending  follows  a  bad  ])eginning.”  We  have  another  more  gratifying 
response,  though,  to  the  cjuestion,  in  the  fact  that  “a  few  (do)  spend  their 
evening  hours ” — aye,  right  up  to  and  past  midnight — “in  studies  and 
educational  work.”  It  is  well  when  youths  put  a  value  on  time,  and 
prepare  for  a  definite  future,  for  worthy  positions,  and  a  glorious 
independence.  “  He  is  a  wise  man  who,  like  the  millwright,  makes  use 
of  every  gust.”  The  “  golden  moment  set  with  its  sixty  diamond 
seconds  ’  is  too  much  for  poor  folk  to  lose. 
To  write  articles  during  the  winter  season  is,  happily  or  unhappily, 
more  than  some  of  us  have  time  to  allow  for.  Our  aim  then  should  be  to 
obtain  a  sound  foundation  on  which  to  build.  This  is  only  attained  by 
prolonged  studious  application,  necessitating  the  subversion  of  many 
things — writing  among  them.  Industry  is  sweet.  But  why,  when  we  do 
write,  does  the  “  Old  Boy  ”  expect  only  a  few  to  enter  by  the  teacher’s 
door  to  this  “  Domain  ?  ”  This  seems  unseemly.  The  whole  of  our 
literature  is  surely  educational.  However,  everyone  has  not  equal 
opportunities  for  gaining  instruction  in  the  sciences  underlying  our  work  ; 
therefore  the  favoured  minority  in  this  respect  might  act  more  truly,  as 
teachers  to  handicapped  brothers. 
It  would  seem,  after  all,  that  young  gardeners  are  considered  an 
immature  fraternity,  capable  of  little  beyond  writing  a  few  lines  on  sub¬ 
jects  beaten  to  death.  Much  garden  print  bears  out  this  conclusion.  We 
console  ourselves  by  remembering  that  Pitman’s  phonography  was 
invented  by  the  late  Sir  Isaac  at  twenty-four.  Burns  died  young,  so  did 
Byron.  Loudon  issued  a  work  on  forestry  and  landscape  gardening 
when  only  twenty -four,  and  William  Pitt  controlled  the  affairs  of  a  British 
Parliament  while  younger  even  than  this.  But -  !  “An  Old  Boy” 
has  shown  it  to  be  our  duty  to  build  up  a  temple  of  knowledge.  Then 
let  us  not  be  slothful.  Keep  such  names  as  Lincoln,  Garfield,  Cleveland, 
and  others  of  the  “  Log  cabin  to  the  White  House  ”  series  of  heroes  ever 
in  view,  not  forgetting  David  Livingstone,  Kitto.  Hugh  Miller,  Chalmers, 
and  Cobbett  as  samples  of  hundreds  more  who  have  plodded  onward  and 
upward.  These  lines  are  often  quoted  : — 
“  The  heights  by  great  men  reached  and  kept 
Were  not  attained  by  sudden  flight ; 
But  they,  while  their  companions  slept, 
Were  toiling  upward  in  the  night.” 
These  ruminations  must  now  conclude.  If  it  be  that  any  of  our 
present  fellow  workers  become  eminent,  let  us  hope  they  may  never  rest 
contented  by  comparing  their  knowledge  with  those  who  grope  below, 
but  rather  with  those  who  soar  far  above  them. — A  Young  Scot. 
TOKK.Fo^™WEEK.. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — Plants  which  have  been  in  bearing  all  the  winter  in 
houses  will  require  frequent  attention.  Remove  all  exhausted  growths  and 
bad  leaves,  encourage  a  free  growth,  stopping  the  bearing  parts  two  joints 
beyond  the  fruit,  and  secure  the  growths  to  the  trellis.  It  will  much 
invigorate  the  plants  if  a  little  of  the  surface  soil  be  removed,  and  a  top¬ 
dressing  of  turfy  loam,  with  a  suitable  chemical  manure  mixed  in,  be 
supplied  ;  and  when  the  roots  are  active  in  the  top-dressing  sprinkle  a  few 
sweetened  horse  droppings,  on  the  bed  occasionally,  feeding  as  required 
with  liquid  manure  in  a  tepid  state.  Young  plants  will  need  more  soil, 
adding  to  the  hillocks  as  the  roots  protrude.  Maintain  a  night  tempera¬ 
ture  of  65°  to  70°  when  mild,  70°  to  75°  by  day  from  fire  heat,  keeping 
through  the  day  at  80°  to  90°,  closing  early  in  the  afternoon,  with 
abundance  of  moisture,  securing  a  steady  bottom  heat  of  80°. 
Fermenting  material-heated  pits  and  frames  which  have  been  set  to 
work  some  time  will  need  linings  about  2  feet  wide.  Look  carefully  to 
the  frame  after  the  heat  generates  in  the  lining  to  see  that  there  is  no 
accumulation  of  rank  steam,  preventing  it  by  a  little  ventilation,  especially 
when  the  sun  shines.  Add  a  little  more  soil  as  the  roots  spread  on  the 
surface,  taking  care  to  have  it  warmed.  Attend  to  training  and  pegging 
the  shoots,  not  overcrowding  them  ;  stop  the  leaders  a  foot  from  the  side 
of  the  frame,  and  pinch  the  laterals  one  or  two  joints  beyond  the  fruit.  In 
watering  do  not  wet  the  foliage  more  than  can  be  helped.  A  night 
covering  will  be  necessary  to  maintain  a  temperature  of  65°  to  70°, 
allowing  the  temperature  to  rise  to  85°  or  90°,  closing  before  it  falls 
below  85°. 
Melons. — The  very  early  plants  have  made  a  sturdy  growth,  and  are 
showing  fruit  on  the  first  laterals.  To  insure  these  setting  it  is  necessary 
to  keep  the  bottom  heat  steady  at  80°  to  85°,  with  suflBcient  moisture  in 
the  soil  to  prevent  flagging.  A  rather  warm  and  dry  atmosphere  favours' 
the  production  of  pollen,  affording  a  little  air  to  prevent  the  deposition  of 
moisture  oil  the  flowers.  Fertilise  the  blossoms  every  day  when  fully 
expanded,  and  stop  the  growths  one  joint  beyond  the  fruits.  When  these 
commence  swelling  remove  all  flowers,  earthing  up  the  roots  by  placing 
warm  soil  against  the  sides  of  the  ridges  or  hillocks,  pressing  it  firmly. 
Apply  water  as  required,  and  sprinkle  the  floor  in  the  morning  and 
evening,  lightly  syringing  at  closing  time  when  the  days  are  bright. 
To  swell  well.  Melons  require  a  night  temperature  of  65°,  or  a  little 
more  in  mild  weather  ;  70“  to  75"  by  day  artificially,  80°  to  90°  from  sun 
heat,  closing  early  in  the  afternoon  so  as  to  raise  to  90°  or  95°,  even  100° 
doing  no  harm  provided  the  atmosphere  is  moist.  If  a  succession  of  fruit 
is  wanted  in  the  same  house,  some  of  the  plants  should  be  deprived  of  the 
flowers  that  appear  on  the  first  laterals  ;  stopping  these  at  the  second 
joint  will  cause  the  sub-laterals  to  show  fruit,  which  will  be  several  days 
later.  Place  supports  to  the  fruits  in  due  course  to  relieve  the  plants  of 
the  weight.  Make  additional  plantings,  pressing  the  soil  around  each 
plant,  shading  for  a  few  days  if  the  sun  be  powerful. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Early  House. — Trees  started  at  the  new  year 
will  require  disbudding  carefully,  removing  the  strongest  and  ill-placed 
shoots,  and  have  all  the  leading  growths  tied  down,  taking  care  not  to 
overcrowd  them.  Proceed  by  degrees  in  thinning  the  shoots,  taking  off 
those  on  the  under  side  of  the  trellis  or  otherwise  badly  placed.  Syringe 
the  trees  during  fine  days,  and  ventilate  early  in  favourable  weather. 
The  temperature  may  range  from  55°  to  65°  at  night,  and  60°  to  65°  by 
day,  ventilating  at  the  latter  temperature,  and  closing  the  house  when  the 
heat  is  decreasing,  allowing  an  advance  to  70°  or  75°  from  sun  heat. 
Avoid  cold  draughts  of  air,  but  admit  a  little  air  constantly  and  freely  in 
favourable  weather,  so  as  to  secure  sturdy  growths,  well-developed 
foliage,  and  thoroughly  solidified  wood. 
Houses  Started  in  February. — The  trees  being  now  in  flower,  or  nearly, 
should  be  examined,  and  if  there  are  more  flower  buds  than  are  needed, 
all  those  on  the  under  side  of  the  shoots  should  be  removed,  as  well  as 
others  as  necessary.  Maintain  the  night  temperature  at  50°  to  55°,  and 
55°  by  day,  with  a  little  ventilation,  as  a  close  atmosphere  is  fatal  to  a 
good  set.  Ventilate  freely  above  55°,  but  avoid  cold  draughts,  and  allow 
an  advance  to  65°  with  sun  heat.  Fertilise  the  flowers  in  the  early  part 
of  fine  days,  either  by  shaking  the  trellis  or  drawing  a  camel’s-hair  brush 
over  the  flowers  when  the  pollen  is  ripe.  Syringing  the  trees  must  cease 
whilst  they  are  in  flower,  but  the  floor  should  be  sprinkled  in  the  morning 
and  afternoon  of  fine  days. 
Houses  to  Afford  Ripe  Fruit  in  Late  July  and  August. — These  being 
planted  with  midseason  varieties,  will  afford  fruit  at  the  time  named. 
Close  the  houses,  syringe  the  trees  two  or  three  times  a  day  until  the  buds 
show  colour,  when  it  must  cease.  Do  not  keep  the  trees  constantly 
dripping  with  moisture,  but  damp  sufficiently  early  to  allow  them  to 
become  fairly  dry  before  night,  and  on  dull  days  only  damp  the  paths. 
The  inside  borders  must  be  brought  into  a  thoroughly  moist  state.  Main¬ 
tain  a  temperature  of  50°  by  day,  40°  to  45°  at  night,  advancing  to  65° 
with  sun  and  full  ventilation. 
Late  Houses. —  If  the  lights  are  off  there  need  not  be  any  hurry  in 
replacing  them  before  the  middle  of  March,  as  that  will  be  early  enough 
to  have  the  trees  in  full  blossom  by  the  middle  of  April,  and  then  they 
have  the  benefit  of  the  sun  heat.  IMany  late  houses  are  unheated,  which 
is  a  great  mistake,  as  the  flowers,  even  in  April,  are  not  safe  from  severe 
spring  frosts,  and  the  fruit  does  not  ripen  well  if  the  late  summer  be  cold 
and  sunless.  A  gentle  heat  during  the  flowering  period  does  much 
towards  a  good  set,  and  in  autumn  artificial  heat  ripens  the  fruit  and  wood, 
plumping  the  buds  wonderfully.  Houses  with  fixed  roof-lights  should  be 
ventilated  freely,  and  the  borders  must  not  be  allowed  to  become  dry, 
giving  thorough  waterings  to  insure  the  moistening  of  the  soiL 
Wall  Cases. — Where  these  are  employed,  whether  over  Peach  or  other 
description  of  fruit  trees,  the  chief  consideration  is  retarding  the  blossom¬ 
ing.  Peach  and  Nectarine  trees,  also  Plums  and  Cherries,  need  not  have 
the  lights  put  on  until  the  middle  of  IMarch  ;  but  Apricots  should  have 
the  lights  put  on  when  their  flower  buds  begin  to  show  white,  and  after 
they  are  placed  on,  ventilate  freely,  as  nothing  is  so  fatal  to  hardy  fruit 
blossom  as  a  close  moist  atmosphere.  Those  that  have  not  had  the  roof 
lights  removed  may  need  supplies  of  water,  so  as  to  bring  the  soil  into 
a  thoroughly  moist  state,  and  may  have  the  border  mulched  with  a  couple 
of  inches  thickness  of  rather  short,  somewhat  fresh  manure.  Ventilate 
freely  to  retard  the  flowering  to  as  late  a  period  as  possible. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  , 
Globe  Artichokes. — The  protective  material  around  Globe  Artichokes 
ought  to  be  removed  before  it  has  the  effect  of  weakening  fresh  sucker 
growths.  If  top  growth  is  far  advanced  when  the  winter  covering  is 
removed,  afford  temporary  protection.'  It  is  yet  full  early  to  thin  out 
growths  or  to  form  fresh  plantations,  but  some  nearly  decayed  manure 
might,  with  advantage,  be  given  all  that  are  well  established.  Bare  the 
surface  roots  to  a  distance  of  18  inches  or  2  feet  from  the  centre  of  each 
clump,  give  a  dressing  of  manure,  and  cover  this  with  the  soil  thrown 
back. 
Celery. — For  the  main  crop  sow  seed  at  once  of  pink  and  red  varieties 
in  preference  to  white  sorts,  as  the  former  are  usually  the  most  solid, 
crisp,  and  nutty  in  flavour.  Sow  somewhat  thinly  on  the  surface  of 
