JOmNAL  OP  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
March  17,  1898. 
250 
Supers. 
These  are  the  exact  counterpart  of  the  hives,  with  the  exception  that 
they  are  only  6  inches  deep,  and  the  top  bar  is  made  of  ^  inch  wood 
instead  of  The  frames  for  the  supers  are  18  inches  by  .5^  inches 
outside  measure.  Ten  frames  are  used  for  the  supers  spaced  at  equal 
distances  apart ;  this  arrangement  gives  wider  combs,  which  are  so  much 
easier  to  extract.  Supers  like  those  used  in  hives  to  take  standard 
frames  may  be  used.  Those  I  have  in  use  are  6  inches  deep,  made  of 
inch  wood,  14i  inches  by  15^  inches  inside  measure,  taking  a  frame 
14  inches  by  inches  outside  measure.  A  cover  for  the  hive  is  made  of 
inch  wood,  and  6  inches  deep  ;  the  side  pieces  are  20§  inches  long,  the 
end  pieces  181  inches  long  ;  if  a  H  inch  plinth  is  nailed  round  this 
cover,  the  plinths  having  a  rabbet  1  inch  deep  taken  out  by  a  half 
plough,  to  make  them  fit  easily  over  the  sides  of  the  hive,  a  flat  top  com¬ 
pletes  the  hive.  It  is  not  absolutely  necessary  to  have  this  cover,  but  it 
juotects  the  hive  top  from  mice  in  winter  and  wasps  in  summer.  If  a 
chafl'  cushion  is  placed  in  this  cover  it  will  make  the  hive  snug  and  warm  in 
winter,  and  the  supers  cool  in  summer.  In  a  previous  issue  “  Warwick  ” 
asked  what  hive  I  most  recommended.  After  considering  all  things, 
including  going  to  the  moors,  wintering  and  forwardness  in  spring,  I 
have  no  hesitation  in  recommending  the  above. — George  Howden- 
SHIRE. 
A.11  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should,  until 
farther  notice,  be  directed  to“  The  Editor,”  8.  Rose  Hill  Road, 
Wandsworth,  S.W.,  and  NOT  to  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers, 
Fleet  Street.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately  to 
any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to 
unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  departmental  writers 
are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they  may  receive  on 
Gardening  and  Bee  subjects  through  the  post.  If  information 
be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any  particular 
authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  he  made  to  obtain 
it  by  the  Editor.  Letters  of  inquiry  must  be  accompan'ed  by 
the  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers,  but  these  will  neither  be 
I'ublished  nor  disclosed  when  initials  or  rtom.  de  plumes  are  given 
for  the  ])urpose  of  replies. 
Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  it  is  convenient  when 
each  question  is  written  on  a  separate  sheet.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  he  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
Book  (F.  C.). — If  you  will  send  your  full  name  and  address  we  will  at 
once  send  you  the  desired  information. 
Seedling  Fig  Trees  (//.  5.1.— Seedling  Fig  trees  are  a  long  time  before 
they  come  into  bearing,  we  having  raised  a  considerable  number  with  a 
view  to  securing  improved  varieties,  but  they  were  very  unsatisfactory  as 
regards  showing  fruit,  and  also  as  to  that  when  produced.  Fruiting  was 
accelerated  by  raising  plants  from  cuttings  of  the  seedlings.  For  pro¬ 
ducing  fruit  for  home  use  or  market  “seedling  Fig  trees”  are  of  no  use 
whatever. 
Orchid  Book  (F.  /i.). — The  full  title  of  Messrs.  J.  Veitch  &  Sons’  work 
on  Orchids  is  “  Manual  of  Orchidaceous  Plants.”  It  is  published  by  the 
firm,  and  may  be  procured  from  Chelsea,  very  neatly  bound  in  two  volumes, 
for  5  guineas  ;  or  certain  parts  may  be  procured,  for  particulars  of  which 
see  the  firm  s  seed  catalogue.  It  is  one  of  the  most  complete  and  valuable 
works  on  Orchids  with  which  we  are  acquainted. 
Peach  Shoots  and  Dead  Buds  (Co«erc«)-— Of  the  nine  parts  of  Peach 
tree  shoots  eight  are  dead  in  the  last  year’s  wood,  the  two-years  wood 
of  one  shoot  being  living,  indeed  it  was  the  only  shoot  containing  both 
one  and  two  years  growth  ;  the  other  shoot  is  quite  green,  unripe  in  the 
wood,  and  “  deaf  ’  in  the  buds.  The  tree  has  evidently  been  badly 
infested  with  scale,  and  dressed  with  a  substance  which  killed  the  shoots. 
The  green  shoot  has  not  been  treated,  the  white  parts  are  where  the  scale 
has  been.  There  are  no  fungoid  growths  of  any  kind,  the  whole  mischief 
to  the  wo  id  being  caused  by  the  article  used  to  kill  the  scale,  which  it 
has  done  very  efiectiially.  also  the  Peach  tree  wood  as  stated.  The  buds, 
however,  on  the  green  or  live  shoot,  could  not  possibly  have  borne  fruit,  and 
perhaps  those  in  the  others  were  in  a  similar  condition  before  the  wood 
was  killed.  We  can  advise  nothing  but  to  cut  away  the  dead  parts,  such 
as  those  you  forwarded,  and  thus  induce  fresh  growth  from  the  sound 
living  wood,  but  probably  the  tree  or  trees  will  scarcely  be  worth  the 
trouble  and  delay.  Of  this,  however,  you  ought  to  be  capable  of  judging. 
Dendrobiums  (  W.  J,  P.). — The  misdirected  parcel  onl^  reached  us  as 
we  are  preparing  for  press.  The  flowers  shall  have  attention. 
Tomato  Leaf  ( Wakopa). — A  leaflet  2  inches  long  and  1  inch  broad, 
withered  through  being  wrapped  in  dry  paper,  is  entirely  insufficient  for 
examination.  If  you  send  several  leaves  packed  in  a  small  box  with 
green  grass,  or  something  to  keep  them  fresh,  they  shall  be  carefully 
examined.  The  fragment  is  excessively  flimsy,  but  whether  this  is  the 
result  of  the  dry  paper  absorbing  the  moisture  from  it  we  cannot  tell. 
For  hints  on  packing  see  the  paragraph  below  headed  “  Names  of  Plants.” 
Post  specimens  on  Friday  if  you  can  to  the  address  in  black  type  at  the 
head  of  this  column.  Sending  to  Fleet  Street  involves  re-posting,  and 
consequently  delay.  Mention  the  temperatures  in  which  you  are  growing 
the  plants. 
The  Cucumber  Tree  (7.  S.  R.  F.). — On  previous  occasions  we  have  said 
that  this  is  the  popular  name  applied  to  Averrhoa  Bilimbi,  a  native  of 
Goa  and  other  parts  of  the  East  Indies,  and  is  now  cultivated  in  South 
America.  The  tree  is  only  8  feet  high,  and  produces  a  beautiful  green, 
smooth,  fleshy  fruit,  of  the  size  and  shape  of  a  small  Cucumber,  liheede 
says  that  the  fruit  when  ripe  is  excellent  to  eat,  but  when  unripe  they 
are  preserved  with  sugar,  or  vinegar  and  brine,  and  although  it  should 
be  of  an  agreeable  acid  flavour  when  ripe,  yet  before  they  are  ripe  they 
are  excessively  sour.  Burman  says  they  contain  a  grateful  acid  juice, 
from  which  a  syrup  is  made,  and  a  conserve  of  the  flowers,  which  are 
esteemed  excellent  in  fevers  and  bilious  disorders.  Rumphius  seems  to 
think  that,  even  when  fully  ripened,  the  fruit  can  never  be  eaten  raw, 
but  is  only  used  to  cook  fish,  fowl,  and  other  viands,  to  give  them  an 
agreeable  acidity,  in’  the  same  way  as  we  use  sorrel  and  verjuice  ;  they 
are  pickled  in  brine  and  eaten  as  we  do  olives  or  capers  in  conjunction 
with  meats  ;  and  preserved  in  sugar,  or  with  a  little  saffron,  they  are 
recommended  to  be  eaten  by  those  who  go  sea  voyages. 
Rust  on  Chrysanthemum  Cuttings  (7.  F.). — Yes,  the  leaves  are 
infested  with  the  Chry.santhemum  leat-rust  fungus  (Uredo  Chrysanthemi), 
the  pustules  being  very  large,  and  for  the  most  part  confined  to  the  under 
side  of  the  leaf ;  but  there  were  a  few  on  the  upper  surface,  showing  that 
the  germinal  tubes  from  the  spores  can  penetrate  through  either  side 
when  grown  relatively  soft,  as  cuttings  usually  are  from  the  closeness 
and  moisture  essential  to  secure  rooting.  You  will  be  doing  wisely  to 
keep  the  affected  plants  from  the  other  stock,  and  also  to  wash  every  leaf 
with  a  solution  of  sulphide  of  potassium,  J  oz.  to  a  quart  of  water, 
applying  by  means  of  a  sponge,  so  as  to  insure  the  solution  coming  into 
contact  with  the  spores  in  the  pustules.  The  plants  should  also  be 
dusted  from  time  to  time  with  a  fungicide,  containing  sulphate  of  copper, 
in  powder  on  both  surfaces  of  the  leaves  as  made,  but  this  must  be  done 
early  as  a  preventive,  for  with  ripe  spores  in  abundance  on  the  older 
leaves,  as  in  your  case,  they  infest  others  whilst  quite  young,  but  the 
pustules  do  not  appear  until  a  later  period.  You  must,  therefore,  kill  the 
spores  present,  and,  as  the  pustules  burst,  those  following,  in  order  to 
effect  a  clearance  from  the  pest,  adopting  both  the  preventive  and 
repressive  treatment. 
Chemical  Manure  (Chas.,  Z»nco?n).— Judging  from  the  guaranteed 
analysis  the  manure  should  be  a  powerful  one,  or  what  is  generally 
termed  stimulating,  and  also  of  a  substantial  nature  for  Vines,  Peaches, 
and  Strawberries,  using  it  at  the  rate  of  2  to  4  ozs.  per  square  yard,  the 
larger  amount  as  a  first  dressing  in  the  spring  or  at  starting,  and  the 
other  at  intervals  of  about  six  weeks  during  growth.  Being  of  an  organic 
nature  in  the  matter  of  phosphates  and  ammonia,  the  manure  will  prove, 
or  should,  of  a  durable  character,  hence  affording  nutrition  steadily  as 
the  plants  require  the  respective  elements— indeed,  it  is  an  excellent 
manure,  according  to  the  tests  we  have  subjected  it  to,  and  would  be  very 
suitable  for  Chrysanthemums,  either  mixed  with  the  soil  in  small  amount, 
say,  a  good  handful  to  a  bushel  of  soil,  or  applied  as  a  top-dressing  in 
moderate  quantity,  or  at  the  rate  of  2  ozs.  per  square  yard.  It  is 
important  not  to  overdo  the  dressing,  especially  when  applying  to  plants 
that  have,  the  roots  near  the  surface,  and  to  always  exercise  judgment 
in  application  as  indicated  by  the  growth  of  the  plants.  It  will  both 
“  force  ”  weakly  things,  and  also  afterwards  “  encourage  steady  growth.” 
You  may  find  “The  Chemistry  of  the  Garden”  useful,  as  it  treats 
largely  on  manures  and  their  application. 
Ferns  from  Spores  (Fe7-n  Zorer).— Several  of  the  finest  Ferns  cannot 
be  increased  by  division  ;  or,  if  they  can,  several  years  elapse.  If 
right  means  are  followed,  they  may  be  raised  from  spores.  This  requires 
a  constantly  humid  warm  atmosphere,  and  little,  if  any,  sunshine. 
Procure  a  wide  earthen  pan,  a  hand  or  bell-glass  that  will  go  within 
it  and  rest  on  the  bottom,  and  a  shallow  wide  pot.  that  will  stand 
within  the  glass  and  above  the  rim  of  the  pan  2  inches  or  3  inches. 
Fill  this  pot  half  full  of  potsherds,  and  upon  them  sufficient  turly  peat, 
mixed  with  small  pieces  of  sandstone,  about  the  size  of  small  peas,  to  come 
up  to  the  top.  Then  take  the  frond  of  any  Fern  that  is  full  of  spores 
or  seeds,  and,  with  the  hand,  brush  them  off:  upon  the  prepared  pot,  set 
it  in  the  pan,  place  the  glass  over  the  pot,  and  fill  the  pan  nearly  with 
water.  Place  the  pan  in  the  warmest  part  of  the  stove,  shading  it  from 
the  sun.  The  small  pieces  of  turf  and  stone  can  be  easily  separated, 
and  the  seedlings  on  each  put  into  small  pots,  without  any  danger  of 
destroying  them  by  the  process  of  removal.  In  the  moist  atmosphere  of 
the  Orchid  house  several  species  of  Fern  will  come  up  spontaneously 
in  the  pots,  baskets,  and  upon  the  blocks.  These  may  be  carefully 
detached  as  soon  as  they  are  large  enough,  and  placed  in  small  pots. 
If  kept  for  a  time  in  a  shady  situation  they  will  soon  make  good 
bushy  plants.  Ferns  require  a  light  open  soil.  A  compost  of  sandy 
fibrous  peat  two  parts,  turfy  loam  oue  part,  and  leaf  mould  one  part,  with 
a  free  admixture  of  sand,  will  suit  them  well. 
