March  24,  1898. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTTCULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
269 
WOKK.fo^ItheWEEK.. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN, 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Protecting. — The  material  employed  for 
protecting  the  blossoms  from  frost  should  at  once  be  affixed  in  front  of 
the  trees.  The  best  method  is  that  which  utilises  something  moveable,  so 
that  light  and  air  can  be  freely  admitted  on  every  favourable  occasion. 
Scrim  canvas  or  frigi  domo  are  materials  which  will  effectually  exclude 
frost  when  thej'  are  dry,  but  they  ought  to  be  drawn  up,  or  on  one  side 
during  the  day.  Fish  netting  in  double  or  treble  thicknesses  often  proves 
sufficiently  serviceable  in  warding  off  frosts  at  a  critical  time,  and  it  has 
the  additional  advantage  of  not  requiring  daily  removal,  inasmuch  as 
light  and  air  can  penetrate  to  every  part  of  the  trees.  Whatever  material 
is  used  it  must  not  rest  closely  on  the  branches,  though  fish  netting  ma}' 
be  somewhat  nearer  without  effecting  any  damage,  provided  wind  does 
not  blow  it  about.  In  the  absence  of  a  coping  from  which  the  protecting 
material  can  be  suspended,  poles  may  be  placed  against  the  walls  well 
away  from  the  trees  at  the  foot,  and  firmly  fixed  in  the  soil.  Over  them 
stretch  the  material  used,  securing  it  firmly  at  each  end  and  other  points 
necessary  for  its  safety. 
Grafting  Fruit  Trees. — Large  healthy  old  trees  that  fail  to  bear  good 
crops,  or  produce  fruit  of  some  inferior  or  undesirable  variety,  may  be 
induced  to  produce  profitable  crops  of  superior  varieties  by  grafting 
Very  large  old  trees  with  thick  stems  ought,  however,  to  have  the 
branches  shortened  to  near  the  point  of  grafting  some  time  previously. 
All  that  is  necessary  then,  when  the  period  arrives  for  inserting  the  scions, 
is  to  remove  a  small  portion  of  the  branch,  and  the  bark  will  be  fresh  and 
clean  for  the  operation.  The  most  commonly  accepted  method  of  grafting 
on  branches  of  large  diameter  is  crown  or  rind  grafting.  Several  scions 
can  be  placed  on  one  stock. 
Preparing  the  Scions. — It  is  of  the  greatest  importance  to  secure  scions 
early  in  winter  when  perfectly  dormant,  preserving  them  in  this  condition 
until  wanted  for  insertion  as  grafts.  They  are  usually  preserved  in  this 
way  by  laying  them  in  soil  under  a  north  wall,  only  removing  them  for 
preparation  previous  to  immediate  insertion.  The  scions  should  be  wood 
of  the  previous  year,  clean,  uninjured,  and  in  a  well  ripened  state,  with 
good  bold  buds.  Usually  the  central  parts  of  such  shoots  are  the  best, 
because  the  wood  is  firm,  having  bold  buds.  So  far  prepared  the  scion 
may  consist  of  four  buds.  The  lower  end  should  be  cut  transversely. 
Just  below  the  third  bud  commence  a  slanting  cut  to  the  base,  forming  a 
wedge.  There  only  remains  to  be  cut  out  a  small  piece  of  wood  from  the 
upper  face  of  the  slanting  cut,  this  forming  a  seat  by  which  the  scion  may 
rest  securely  upon  the  stock. 
Preparing  the  Stocks. — The  stocks  having  been  cut  transversely  and 
the  edges  of  the  bark  trimmed  smoothly,  make  longitudinal  slits  down¬ 
wards  just  through  the  bark  the  same  length  as  the  prepared  portions  of 
the  scions. 
Uniting  Stocks  and  Scions. — The  bark  on  each  side  of  the  incision  for 
admitting  the  scion  must  be  gently  raised,  pushing  the  scion  carefully 
down  until  the  upper  end  rests  upon  the  stock.  See  that  the  inner  bark 
or  alburnous  tissue  of  both  stock  and  scion  fits  exactly  on  both  sides  if 
possible,  but  at  least  on  one.  Secure  the  united  pgrts  firmly  with 
matting,  and  cover  the  whole  well  over  with  grafting  wax  or  the  prepara¬ 
tion,  which  can  be  purchased  ready  for  immediate  use,  known  as  Mastic 
I’Homme  Lefort.  All  the  joinings  should  be  covered  with  the  material 
and  the  face  of  the  stock  as  well.  This  is  very  important,  as  the  complete 
exclusion  of  air  materially  assists  a  speedy  union. 
Top-dressing  Fruit  Trees  and  Bushes.  —The  present  is  a  suitable  time 
to  apply  some  lertilising  material  over  the  roots  of  trees  and  bushes  that 
need  assistance  either  to  encourage  freer  growth  during  the  succeeding 
season  or  to  nourish  the  crop  of  fruit  which  the  trees  may  subsequently 
carry.  A  mixture  of  fresh  loam,  decayed  manure,  and  wood  ashes  proves 
of  great-  benefit  to  Cherries,  Apricots,  Peaches,  Nectarines,  and  Plums. 
Lime,  chalk,  or  mortar  rubbish  may  be  required  in  soils  deficient  in 
calcareous  matter,  the  latter  being  essential  to  stone  fruits.  The  addition 
of  a  little  bonemeal  and  muriate  of  potash  is  excellent  for  fruit  bushes, 
including  Red  and  White  Currants,  Gooseberries.  They  require  to  be 
fed  liberally  with  phosphates  and  potash  ;  bonemeal  supplies  phosphate. 
Black  Currants  need  more  liberal  nitrogenous  food  in  addition,  owing  to 
the  necessity  for  them  to  form  a  fair  amount  of  strong  new  wood  each 
year,  as  well  as  perfecting  the  fruit.  Similar  dressings  should  be  applied 
to  Raspberries.  Even  without  applications  of  chemical  manures,  bush 
fruits  invariably  succeed  when  farmyard  manure  is  applied  liberally  over 
the  roots  and  liquid  manure  given  freely  during  growth.  Liquid  manure 
is  excellent  to  apply  to  large  old  trees  of  Apples,  Pears,  Plums,  which 
may  have  their  roots  deeper,  especially  when  making  deficient  growth  or 
showing  other  signs  of  enfeeblement. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Figs.  — Earliest  Forced  Trees  in  Pots. — Early  Violet  and  St.  John's, 
though^small,  are  excellent' first  early  varieties,  and  now  as  they  advance 
towards  ripening  must  be  kept  dry.  This  applies  both  to  the  foliage  and 
the  roots.  Water,  however,  should  be  supplied  to  the  roots  so  as  to  maintain 
the  foliage  in  health.  Trees  of  Pingo  de  Mel  and  Brown  Turkey 
swelling  their  fruits  need  full  supplies  of  water  and  liquid  manure  until 
ripening  commences,  when  a  circulation  of  warm  air  will  be  necessary  to 
secure  well  ripened  high  quality  fruit.  The  temperature  should  be  main¬ 
tained  at  60°  to  65°  at  night,  70°  to  75°  by  day  from  fire  heat,  80°  to  85° 
with  sun,  admitting  air  or  increasing  it  from  75°,  closing  the  house  early  so 
as  to  advance  5°  to  10°  afterwards. 
Planted-out  Trees.  —  These  often  grow  too  luxuriantly',  and  are 
frequently  trained  to  walls  at  a  considerable  distance  from  the  glass,  so 
that  they  produce  wood  instead  of  fruit.  This  can  only  be  overcome  by 
lifting,  restricting  the  roots,  and  training  the  growths  thinly'.  When  the 
foliage  has  abundance  of  light  and  the  roots  are  plentiful  in  borders  of 
limited  area,  the  trees  require  liberal  feeding.  Fig  trees  with  abundance 
of  fibrous  roots  will  take  almost  any  amount  of  liquid  manure  without 
prejudice  to  the  crop. 
Vines. — Earliest  Forced  in  Pots. — The  canes  started  last  November,  and 
duly  attended  to  in  regard  to  heat,  moisture,  and  other  cultural  require¬ 
ments,  have  the  Grapes  swelled  to  a  good  size,  and  these  are  changing 
colour.  The  supplies  of  liquid  manure  should  be  lessened  gradually,  so 
as  not  to  give  a  check,  and  the  atmospheric  moisture  must  he  reduced. 
Allow  a  gentle  circulation  of  air  constantly,  and  damp  the  house  in  the 
morning  and  afternoon,  as  moisture  is  essential  to  the  finishing  of  the 
Grapes.  Maintain  the  temperature  at  60°  to  65°  at  night,  70°  to  75°  by 
day  artificially,  and  between  75°  and  85°  through  the  day  from  sun  heat, 
ventilating  freely  in  fine  weather. 
Early  Houses. — In  the  house  started  early  in  December  the  Grapes  are 
rapidly  advancing  towards  the  colouring  stage,  and  should  be  afforded  a 
thorough  supply  of  tepid  liquid  manure,  mulching  with  a  little  partially 
decayed  lumpy  manure.  With  the  border  in  a  proper  state  of  moisture 
and  the  stimulus  given  the  roots,  little,  if  any,  further  moisture  will  be 
needed  by  the  border  until  the  Grapes  are  cut.  Continue  damping  at 
closing  time  until  the  Grapes  are  well  advanced  in  colouring,  after  which 
reduce  the  moisture  gradually,  but  provide  a  circulation  of  warm  air  by 
day  and  night. 
Vines  Started  at  the  New  Year. — When  these  are  advanced  to  the 
flowering  stage  afford  plenty  of  warm,  rather  dry  air,  with  a  temperature 
of  65°  to  70°  for  Black  Hamburghs  and  similar  sorts,  and  70°  to  75°  for 
Muscats.  All  shy-setting  varieties  should  have  their  flowers  gently 
rubbed  with  a  camel’s-hair  brush.  Varieties  deficient  in  pollen  may 
be  supplied  from  those  affording  it  freely.  On  no  account  allow  the 
thinning  to  remain  a  day  longer  than  is  necessary  to  ascertain  the  best 
set  bunches.  Free-setting  varieties,  such  as  Black  Hamburgh,  may  be 
thinned  as  soon  as  the  berries  are  formed,  but  Muscats  and  other 
shy-setting  sorts  ought  not  to  be  thinned  until  the  properly  fertilised 
berries  are  taking  the  lead.  When  the  Grapes  have  been  thinned, 
and  are  swelling,  supply  liquid  manure  in  a  tepid  state,  and  mulch  with 
about  an  inch  depth  of  rather  fresh  lumpy  manure,  keeping  it  sprinkled 
from  time  to  time,  especially  at  closing  the  house.  Admit  air  early  and 
liberally  as  the  heat  increases,  seeking  to  secure  short-jointed  wood  and 
thick  leathery  foliage.  Close  early,  with  plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture, 
raising  the  heat  from  the  sun  to  85°  or  90°,  and  allow  the  night  tempera¬ 
ture  to  fall  to  between  60°  and  65°. 
Succession  .bowses.— Stopping  and  tying  the  shoots  will  need  attention, 
not  allowing  these  matters  to  fall  into  arrears,  as  large  reductions  of 
foliage  are  pernicious.  Where  the  growth  is  somewhat  restricted  stop 
two  joints  beyond  the  bunch,  pinching  the  laterals  to  one  leaf  ;  but  where 
there  is  space  for  extension  allow  four  or  five  joints  beyond  the  fruit. 
After  the  space  is  occupied  keep  the  growths  stopped  to  one  joint.  Supply 
water  or  liquid  manure  to  the  inside  border  in  a  tepid  state,  and  ventilate 
freely  on  all  favourable  occasions. 
Late  Houses. — Late  Grapes  started  as  previously  advised  will  be 
swelling  their  buds.  Syringe  the  Vines  twice  daily,  and  every  surface 
ought  to  be  damped  in  the  morning  and  evening,  closing  the  house  with 
plenty  of  moisture  at  75°.  Inside  borders  will  need  repeated  waterings  to 
bring  them  into  a  thoroughly  moist  condition.  A  supply  of  liquid  ma:ure 
will  materially  assist  weakly  Vines,  supplying  it  after  making  the  border 
fairly  moist.  Outside  borders  must  have  a  light  mulch  of  some  protective 
material. 
Strawberries  in  Pots.  —  The  north-easterly  winds  have  not  been 
favourable  to  plants  in  flower,  mildew  flourishing,  and  sulphur  is  much 
less  effective  against  it  in  winter  than  in  summer.  In  dull  weather  it  is 
well  to  shake  the  flowers  occasionally  when  the  pollen  is  ripe,  and  to 
remove  the  smallest  and  least  desirable,  leaving  the  boldest,  which  are 
usually  the  first  to  expand,  and  they  generally  afford  the  largest  fruit. 
Thin  the  fruits  after  they  are  set,  leaving  the  number  on  each  plant  it  is 
calculated  to  mature  well.  Colour  and  size  are  the  chief  points  in  a  forced 
Strawberry,  and  a  relatively  few  good  fruits  are  better  than  many 
indifferent.  The  plants  should  be  examined  twice  a  day  for  water, 
supplying  it  w'here  needed  liberally,  aflbrding  liquid  manure  two  or 
three  times  a  week  when  the  fruit  is  swelling.  Steady  progressive  grow  th 
is  most  favourable  for  Strawberries  until  after  flowering,  then  they  swell 
better  in  a  high  temperature,  and  moist  but  not  very  close  atmosphere. 
Common  Mistakes  in  Fruit  Culture  was  the  subject  of  a 
practical  and  instructive  paper  given  by  Mr.  George  Bunyard  of 
Maidstone  before  the  Reading  and  District  Gardeners'  Mutual  Improve¬ 
ment  Association  on  IMonday  evening  last.  Mr.  C.  B.  Stevens  presided 
over  a  large  attendance  of  members.  The  paper  was  followed  with  the 
closest  attention,  and  at  the  close  a  hearty  vote  of  thanks  was  accorded 
to  Mr.  Bunyard. 
