290 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
March  31,  1898. 
it  to  drop  off  or  curl,  thereby  mutilating  the  plants.  On  its  first 
appearance  commence  a  vigorous  attack.  Fumigation  does  not  disturb 
its  equanimity  much  ;  tobacco  water,  quassia,  and  other  things  seem 
to  agree  with  its  constitution,  but  softsoap  bothers  it  and  has  the  desired 
effect.  If  any  young  gardener  recognise  the  insect,  and  would  state  his 
experiences  in  combating  it,  in  the  pages  of  the  “Domain,”  many  others 
besides  myself  would  be  interested. — 11.  A.  Anderson,  Alnwick. 
Young  Gardeners’  Premiums. 
It  seems  to  me  that  the  subject  of  premiums  is  less  discussed  than 
almost  any  pertaining  to  gardening.  Why  is  this  so  ?  Is  it  because  the 
older  gardeners  think  there  is  no  need  for  reform,  or  are  the  young 
gardeners  somewhat  afraid  of  expressing  their  opinions  publicly  I  Tlieir 
opinion  of  the  premium  or  the  premium  system,  is,  I  suspect,  far  from 
favourable,  and  this  is  not  surprising,  seeing  that  there  are  plenty  of 
excellent  men  in  high  positions  who  have  never  paid  a  cent  for  learning. 
Some  gardeners  there  are  (and  I  trust  many)  who  take  a  youth,  and 
from  pure  love  of  the  work,  give  him  a  training  in  the  craft,  in  the  hope 
that  some  day  he  may  attain  a  creditable  position.  On  the  other  hand, 
there  are  men  who  enter  into  an  agreement  to  teach  a  youth  gardening 
in  consideration  of  a  fee  for  doing  so  ;  and  the  youth  (or  his  parents) 
naturally  thinking  this  will  insure  his  advancement,  the  fee  is  paid,.  Still, 
how  often  does  it  happen  on  the  expiry  of  the  term  that  a  youth  finds 
himself  no  forwarder  than  his  companions  in  other  places  who  have  paid 
nothing. 
But  does  the  gardener  teach  him  ?  As  a  rule  does  not  the  teaching 
fall  on  the  foreman  who  gets  no  recompense  for  it  ?  I  have  not  as  yet 
met  a  single  foreman  who  was  in  favour  of  premiums,  and  if  they  keep 
to  that  mind  when  they  become  head  gardeners  there  is  better  times  for 
apprentices  in  store.  Many  gardeners  argue  that  the  premium  is  a  means 
of  keeping  gardeners  select.  That  may  have  been  the  case  in  days  gone 
by,  but  the  argument  is  now  obsolete,  for  there  are  so  many  men  who 
spring  from  amateurs  to  professionals  that  the  competition  in  gardening 
is  as  keen  as  in  any  other  profession  or  vocation.  Be  that  as  it  may, 
the  premium  system  is  a  means  of  deterring  many  ardent,  industrious, 
earnest  youths  from  becoming  gardeners. — Kbporm. 
WOKK.foiitheWEEK.. 
and  a  mulching  of  rather  lumpy  manure  encourages  roots  and  affords 
support. 
Later  plants  will  need  the  growths  trained  regularly,  removing  the 
laterals  on  the  stem  to  the  trellis,  then  rubbing  off  every  alternate  lateral 
directly  they  are  perceived,  leaving  the  rest  right  and  left  of  the  main 
stem,  pinching  the  point  out  of  the  primary  stem  after  it  has  extended 
two-thirds  across  the  trellis.  Increase  the  supply  of  water  as  the  days 
lengthen,  but  avoid  making  the  soil  too  wet,  and  secure  a  genial  condition 
of  the  atmosphere  by  damping  in  the  morning  and  lightly  syringing  on 
fine  afternoons.  Sow  seeds  to  raise  plants  for  occupying  small  houses  or 
pits  as  they  become  cleared  of  bedding  plants,  keeping  the  seedlings  sturdy 
and  not  allowing  them  to  become  root-bound. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines.— Forced  Trees. — The  trees  must  not 
be  hurried  during  the  stoning  process,  but  continue  the  temperature  at 
70°  to  75°  by  day  with  sun  heat,  and  about  65°  in  dull  weather.  Tie  the 
shoots  to  the  trellis  as  they  advance,  and  regulate  the  growths  for  future 
bearing,  so  as  not  to  have  them  too  crowded.  Shoots  more  than  14  inches 
long  that  are  not  required  for  extensions  may  have  the  points  pinched 
out.  When  the  stoning  process  is  over  the  fruits  will  require  regulating 
for  the  swelling  period.  Supply  weakly  trees  with  liquid  manure,  and 
inside  borders  must  be  kept  properly  watered,  mulching  the  surface  with 
partially  decayed  manure.  The  temperature  may  be  increased  to  65°  or 
70°  at  night,  and  in  the  day  to  70°  or  75°,  maintaining  85°  or  90° 
throughout  the  day  by  sun  heat ;  ventilate  from  75°,  and  close  early  with 
plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture.  The  very  early  varieties  will  soon  give 
indications  of  ripening,  when  syringing  must  cease,  and  the  leaves  that 
shade  the  fruit  must  be  drawn  aside. 
Trees  Started  at  the  New  Year. — The  weather  on  the  whole  has  been 
favourable  to  the  swelling  of  the  fruits,  especially  where  a  genial  atmo¬ 
sphere  has  been  maintained,  and  stoning  is  commencing.  Avoid  sudden 
checks  by  injudicious  ventilation  ;  cold  air  in  the  day,  causing  excessive 
evaporation,  and  too  high  a  temperature  at  night  are  fatal. 
Trees  Started  Early  in  February. — These  have  firm-textured  and  deeply 
coloured  foliage  when  properly  attended  to,  the  set  of  fruit  being  satis¬ 
factory,  and  the  swelling  progressive.  Syringing  as  soon  as  the  fruit  is 
fairly  set  on  all  the  trees  assists  them  to  shed  the  remains  of  the  flowers. 
Heavy  syringing  must  be  avoided  ;  an  occasional  effective  and  judicious 
syringing  is  all  that  is  needed  until  the  foliage  attains  to  nearly  its  full 
size  in  the  first  leaves.  Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  55°  to  60°  in 
mild  weather,  ventilating  from  65°,  permitting  an  advance  from  sun  heat 
to  70°  or  75°,  but  with  free  ventilation. 
Trees  Started  Early  in  March. — These  are  now  flowering  well.  Provide 
a  little  ventilation  constantly  at  the  top  of  the  house,  and  lose  no  oppor¬ 
tunity  of  ventilating  freely.  The  night  temperature  should  be  50®  in 
mild  weather,  falling  5°  to  10°  through  the  night,  and  in  severe  weather 
50°  to  55°  by  day  and  65°  from  sun  with  a  free  circulation  of  air.  Let 
there  be  no  mistake  as  to  the  moisture  of  the  inside  border,  giving  a 
thorough  supply  of  water  when  required. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — The  bright  sun  has  caused  plants  kept  close  during  the 
severe  weather  to  flag,  and  therefore  light  shading  is  desirable  for  a  couple 
of  hours  at  midday  when  the  sun  is  powerful.  Plants  in  bearing  will 
need  water  with  a  little  nourishing  food  in  it  once  or  twice  a  week,  and 
the  roots  earthing  occasionally.  Old  plants  that  have  been  in  bearing 
some  time  should  have  the  exhausted  soil  removed,  not  injuring  the  roots, 
adding  a  rich  lumpy  compost  previously  warmed.  Exhausted  growths 
should  be  cut  out  and  young  bearing  shoots  encouraged.  Damp  the  floors 
and  other  surfaces  in  the  morning  and  evening,  and  syringe  the  plants 
lightly  on  fine  afternoons.  Attend  to  stopping  and  regulating  the  growths 
not  less  frequently  than  once  a  week^^  To  keep  the  plants  in  steady 
progress  and  secure  straight,  tender,  crisp,  well-flavoured  fruit,  a  tempe¬ 
rature  of  65°  to  70°  at  night,  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially,  80°  to  85°  with 
sun,  closing  sufficiently  early  to  run  up  to  90°  or  100°,  with  abundance  of 
atmo.spheric  moisture,  will  be  suitable.  Ventilate  early  but  moderately, 
avoiding  sudden  changes  of  temperature  ;  pernicious  cutting  winds  and 
currents  of  cold  air  cripple  the  foliage  and  deform  the  fruit. 
In  pits  and  frames  the  necessary  heat  should  be  maintained  by 
renewing  the  linings,  taking  care  to  keep  rank  steam  out  of  the  frames. 
Train  the  growths  rather  thinly,  and  stop  them  one  or  two  joints  beyond 
the  show  for  fruit.  Supply  fresh  soil  to  the  hillocks  or  ridges  as  the  roots 
extend,  and  be  careful  in  the  application  of  water.  Admit  a  little  air 
early,  so  as  to  dry  the  foliage  before  the  sun  acts  powerfully  upon  it. 
Keep  the  temperature  through  the  day  at  80°  to  90°  from  sun,  and  close 
early  in  the  afternoon,  no  harm  accruing  if  the  temperature  rise  to  90°  to 
95°,  provided  there  is  no  rank  steam. 
Melons. — When  the  earliest  plants  are  in  flower  and  during  the  setting 
period  water  should  only  be  given  to  prevent  flagging,  and  the  atmosphere 
must  be  kept  drier,  with  an  increase  of  temperature  of  about  5°.  Fertilise 
the  blossoms  every  day,  pinching  each  growth  at  the  same  time  one 
joint  beyond  the  fruit.  When  the  Iruits  are  set  and  about  the  size  of  a 
bantam’s  egg  give  a  thorough  watering  with  tepid  water  or  liquid  manure, 
having  the  soil  for  earthing  the  roots  warmed.  Stop  the  subsequent 
growths  to  one  or  two  leaves,  and  avoid  overcrowding  by  removing 
superfluous  growths.  Maintain  the  bottom  heat  between  80°  and 
85°.  The  night  temperature  should  be  kept  at  65°  to  70°,  70°  to  75°  by 
day  from  fire  heat,  ventilating  from  that  point,  but  allowing  an  advance  to 
85°  or  90°,  closing  between  these  figures  sufficiently  early  to  run  up  to 
90°  or  100°.  Syringe  moderately  about  3  P.M.  on  bright  and  warm 
afternoons,  or  soon  after  midday  when  the  air  is  sharp.  Damp  the  floor 
in  the  morning,  and  keep  the  evaporation  troughs  charged  with  liquid 
manure.  Liquid  manure  will  be  needed  by  plants  in  restricted  borders. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Asparagus. — If  the  beds  were  heavily  dressed  with  manure,  and  the 
soil  from  the  sides  and  alleys  distributed  over  this — an  old  but  faulty 
practice — the  surface  ought  now  to  be  lightly  forked  over,  all  stones 
and  sticks  removed,  and  enough  of  the  top-dressing  be  raked  off  to 
cover  the  roots  exposed  when  the  sides  were  chopjied  down.  It  is  a 
mistake  to  rake  off  all  the  soil  and  manure  to  the  extent  of  nearly 
baring  the  crowns.  Now  is  a  good  time  to  top-dress  shallow  beds  with 
a  mixture  of  fine  loam,  leaf  soil,  sand,  and  fine  mortar  rubbish.  Do 
not  disturb  the  soil  in  the  alleys,  as  this  ought  to  be  occupied  with 
Asparagus  roots.  If  shallow  beds  are  not  top-dressed,  the  least  that 
can  be  done  is  to  hover  strawy  manure  over  them  with  a  view  to 
protecting  the  young  shoots. 
Manuring  Asparagus. — Salt  is  often  applied  to  Asparagus  beds,  and 
answers  the  double  purpose  of  stimulating  the  growth  of  plants  and  destroy¬ 
ing  weeds.  It  should  be  used  somewhat  freely,  or  enough  evenly  dis¬ 
tributed  to  well  whiten  the  surface  of  the  beds.  Applied  to  newly 
formed  beds,  salt  is  liable  to  seriously  injure  the  roots,  and  has  been 
the  cause  of  numerous  partial  or  complete  failures.  Clayey  soils  are 
made  still  colder  and  closer  when  dressed  with  salt,  and  in  all  cases 
where  the  beds  are  formed  with  soils  of  a  clayey  nature,  salt  should 
not  be  applied  unless,  unfortunately,  weeds  cannot  be  kept  down,  other¬ 
wise  than  by  its  use.  Guano  and  special  manures  applied  as  recom¬ 
mended  by  the  vendors,  greatly  benefit  Asparagus,  but  do  not  check  the 
growth  of  weeds.  Liquid  manure,  applied  now,  and  again  when  cutting 
has  ceased,  acts  beneficially,  especially  in  the  case  of  the  lighter  non- 
retentive  soils. 
Seakale.— Seakale  that  is  planted  permanently,  and  either  forced  or 
only  covered  with  blanching  material,  ought  not  to  be  allowed  to  form 
stems  much  above  the  ground.  After  the  blanched  tops  have  been 
removed,  cut  all  stems  exposed  down  to  the  ground.  They  will  break 
strongly,  and  if  the  shoots  are  freely  thinned  out  three  or  four  strong 
crowns  will  be  the  ultimate  result.  Where  Seakale  can  be  forced  in 
Mushroom  houses,  or  other  heated  structures,  this  simplifies  matters,  as 
it  is  less  trouble  than  forcing  permanently  planted  roots  with  manure  and 
leaves.  Single  roots  2  to  3  inches  in  circumference  for  forcing  can  be 
grown  in  a  single  year  from  root  cuttings,  each  when  lifted  and  forced 
giving  one  strong  growth  and  two  or  three  smaller  in  size.  All  the 
thongs  or  thickened  roots  should  be  saved  at  lifting  time,  and  these  cut 
up  into  lengths  of  5  inches,  should  be  planted  in  March  or  early  in  April, 
If  these  cuttings  are  prepared  in  January  or  February  and  packed  in  soil 
or  moist  sand  in  a  cool  place,  they  form  roots  and  buds  by  planting  time. 
Seakale  should  be  planted  in  a  moderately  rich,  finely  divided  soil,  dis- 
