292 
jotinnAL  OP  itoPTiotiLTtrnp  cottagp  garopneu. 
March  3l,  1898. 
Diseased  Neapolitan  Violet  {H.  L.  (7.). — The  plant  is  attacked  both  at 
the  root  stems  and  in  the  leaves  by  the  Violet  disease  fungus  (Peronospora 
violaj).  It  is  mainly  induced  by  a  stagnant  atmosphere,  not  necessarily 
by  keeping  the  lights  of  the  frame  closed,  but  through  the  plants  being 
very  close  together  and  dense  in  the  crowns,  so  that  air  does  not  circulate 
freely  through  them.  The  plant  had  at  least  a  dozen  apologies  for  crowns, 
and,  in  consequence,  very  weakly  and  crowded.  We  mention  this,  as  to 
have  healthy  plants  they  must  be  from  Individual  suckers  or  offsets  planted 
singly  each  spring,  at  least  9  inches  apart,  in  good  rich  rather  firm  soil 
in  an  open  situation,  kept  free  from  runners  ftnd  weeds  during  the  summer, 
and  properly  supplied  with  water  and  nourishment.  For  repressing  the 
fungus  use  a  mixture  of  charcoal  dust  and  air-slaked  lime,  dry  and  floury, 
dusting  the  plants  lightly,  and  keeping  them  free  from  all  dead  or 
decaying  leaves.  This  treatment  answers  well  with  us.  Such  plants  ns 
the  one  sent  cannot  possibly  be  satisfactory.  , 
Boiler  Leakage — Cucumbers,  Tomatoes,  and  Mushrooms  (^A.  D,  H.'). — 
Drive  in  the  “  tow  ”  as  you  propose  with  a  mixture  of  red  and  white  lead, 
and  bind  a  thick  plaster  of  this  mixture,  if  you  can,  tightly  round  the 
faulty  part,  which  may  be  in  one  of  the  tubes.  You  will  find  practical 
information  on  “  Cucumber  and  Tomato  troubles,”  and  how  they  were 
surmounted,  by  Mr.  Iggulden,  in  the  issues  of  the  Journal  of  Horticulture 
of  February  18th,  March  4th,  and  April  1st,  1897.  Mr.  Mortimer’s 
method  of  growing  Cucumbers  in  a  small  quantity  of  soil  is  described  by 
Mr.  Dean  in  our  issue  of  May  ^Oth  of  the  same  year  ;  and  an  excellent 
article  on  growing  Mushrooms  for  market,  by  one  of  the  most  successful 
cultivators,  was  published  on  February  10th,  1898,  The  five  numbers,  if 
in  stock,  will  be  posted  to  you  in  return  for  Is.  5id.  sent  direct  to  the 
publisher,  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street,  London,  but  you  must 
be  careful  to  quote  the  dates  we  have  given.  You  can  also  obtain 
Wright’s  “  Mushrooms  for  the  Million  ”  (which  has  been  helpful  to  many, 
including  the  writer  of  the  article  alluded  to)  from  the  same  address  for 
Is.  3d.,  or  by  ordering  through  a  local  bookseller  for  Is. 
Tuberoses  (E-  T.  S.). — These  plants  are  usually  grown  and  flowered 
in  pots,  but  we  have  seen  them  flower  freely  in  the  open  air,  Yoii  had 
better  pot  the  tubers  on  arrival  in  the  same  way,  and  in  similar  soil  as 
you  would  Hyacinths,  burying  the  pots  in  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  or  other 
suitable  material,  say  under  the  close  stage  of  a  greenhouse,  where  no 
drip  will  reach  them.  If  the  soil  is  pleasantly'  moist  when  used  no  water 
will  be  needed  if  they  are  covered  with  damp  material  as  soon  as  potted. 
When  growth  has  fairly  started  withdraw  the  pots,  and  gradually  inure 
the  plants  to  the  light,  taking  care  that  the  soil  does  not  get  too  dry.  As 
growth  advances  syringe  the  plants  daily  in  bright  afternoons,  and  as  the 
weather  becomes  warmer  place  them  in  a  frame,  keeping  it  rather  close 
for  a  time,  then  gradually  increasing  the  air  for  preparing  the  plants,  as 
if  they  were  Dahlias  for  planting  out  early  in  June.  If  you  make  no 
mistake  in  carrying  out  the  advice  given  you  may  succeed  in  your  object 
The  plants  should  be  kept  steadily  growing  without  check.  We  have 
known  tubers  planted  directly  in  the  open  at  the  end  of  May  grow  and 
•flower  towards  the  end  of  the  summer,  though  some  failed. 
Eurycles  Cunninghami  (J.  G.  S.). — This  is  an  Australian  Amarylli- 
daceous  plant  near  Pancratium.  To  be  grown  well  it  should  be  given 
a  pla,ce  in  the  stove,  and  be  treated  in  a  similar  manner  to  Eucharis 
d  iring  the  season  of  growth.  Unlike  Eucharis,  however,  it  is  deciduous, 
and  requires  a  thorough  rest  during  winter.  Plenty  of  water  should 
be  given  while  growth  is  active,  the  supply  being  gradually  withheld 
as  the  leaves  show  signs  of  decay  in  the  autumn,  no  water  at  all  being  given 
during  winter.  At  the  beginning  of  March  growth  will  commence, 
flowers  being  produced  with  or  soon  after  the  development  of  the  young 
leaves.  The  best  time  to  repot  is  in  March,  a  compost  such  as  is 
used  for  Eucharis  being  suitable.  The  plant  does  not  resemble  the  white 
variety  of  Agapanthus  umbellatus  in  any  way'.  The  foliage  is  very 
like  that  of  Eucharis  amazonica,  but  not  so  strong.  The  flowers  also 
resemble  somewhat  miniature  flowers  of  that  plant.  They  are  white, 
about  inch  across,  and  produced  ten  or  more  together  on  scapes  1  foot 
high.  The^  species  was  introduced  from  Queensland  and  named  after  its 
discoverer  in  1824,  and  was  figured  in  the  “Botanical  Magazine”  in  1835, 
t.  3399. 
Various  Plants  (7?.  C.  H,'). — Solanum  jasminoides  is  a  greenhouse, 
wall,  or  pillar  plant,  as  free  in  growth  as  a  Jasmine  when  planted  out, 
and  it  is  better  so,  with  its  roots  limited  to  a  narrow  border,  than  grown 
in  a  pot.  We  have  seen  it  15  feet  high,  covered  with  white  flowers,  in  a 
house  from  which  frost  was  excluded.  It  may  be  increased  by  cuttings 
in  sandy  soil  unaer  a  bell-glass  in  genial  heat  in  the  spring.  Strcptosolen 
Jamesoni  may  be  grown  in  the  same  way,  but  requires  a  warm  green¬ 
house  ;  it  can  bo  grown  and  flowered  in  pots,  either  in  a  small  state, 
or  shifted  into  larger  and  trained  as  free  pyramids.  It  is  beautiful  in  any 
form  by  its  orange-scarlet  flowers.  Mr.  Bennett  Pile  usually  exhibits 
handsome  specimens  at  the  May  shows  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society. 
Propagation  is  effected  by  cuttings,  in  the  same  w'ay  as  the  Solanum, 
but  preferably  with  a  little  more  heat.  It  is  worthy  of  extensive  cultiva¬ 
tion.  New  Zealand  Flax,  popularly  Flax  Lily,  botanically  Phormium 
tenax,  is  occasionally  seen  in  conservatories.  It  produces  persistent 
leaves,  4  to  6  feet  in  length,  and  3  or  4  inches  in  width.  The  dwarfer 
form,  P.  t.  \  eitchianum,  with  its  striped  leaves,  is  the  more  ornamental 
and  generally  cultivated.  Phormiums  are  increased  by  seeds  and  division. 
The  Cactaceous  plants  to  which  you  refer  are  Phyllocactus  Thalia, 
which  produces  beautiful  large  crimson  flowers,  suffused  with  violet  ;  and 
P.  Vesta,  which  has  pure  white  flow'ers.  They  are  varietal  forms,  raised 
in  the  Chelsea  establishment  of  Messrs.  James  Veitch  &  Sons,  Ltd,  The 
flowers  are  only  of  short  duration.  You  do  not  say  what  kind  of 
information  you  require,  and  trust  that  what  we  have  said  will  to  some 
extent  meet  your  wishes. 
Violets  Damping  Off  {A  Reader  of  Our  Journal"). — The  Violets  are 
simply  damped  through  the  foliage  being  forced  and  then  subjected 
suddenly  to  cold.  This  is  a  common  failing  of  the  Neapolitan  and  the 
form  of  it  known  as  Marie  Louise — the  lavender  flowered  variety  with  a 
white  eye,  not  the  deeper  coloured  form,  which,  with  the  -variety  you 
name,  is  much  hardier  in  both  flower  and  foliage.  There  does  not  appear  to 
be  any  trac^of  Violet  disease  (Peronospora  violae)  fungus,  but  there  may 
be  some  on  the  root  stems  (see  reply  to  “  H.  L.  C.”).  We  can  only  advise 
more  careful  ventilation,  but  with  security  from  frost. 
Marechal  Niel  Rose  Blooms  Damping  {Gardener). — There  was  nothing 
of  an  organic  nature  to  injure  the  buds.  They  had  evidently  suffered  from 
some  coustitutional  defect,  probably  lack  of  nourishment.  Under  similar 
couditions  we  have  known  a  little  extra  feeding  with  a  quickly  acting 
fertiliser  produce  satisfactory  results,  a  small  pinch  of  the  following  mix¬ 
ture  per  pot  acting  like  a  charm  : — Phosphate  of  potash  three  parts,  dust 
charcoal  one  and  half  part,  and  sulphate  of  ammonia  one  and  half  part, 
mixed,  a  thimbleful  sufficing  for  an  8-inch  pot.  It  is  difficult  to  account 
for  some  blooms  being  affected  and  others  not ;  but  the  position  of  the 
plants  and  differences  in  vigour  of  the  growths  may  account  for  the 
divergences. 
Foster’s  Seedling  Vine  leaves  Curled  (W.  (7.).— The  cutting  away  of 
the  Black  Hamburgh  on  which  the  Foster’s  Seedling  was  grafted  five  or 
six  years  ago  is  sufficient  to  account  for  the  crumpled  condition  of  the 
leaves  and  somewhat  stunted  growth,  as  there  would  be  a  considerable 
deprivation  of  support.  There  is  no  disease,  or  anything  than  that  stated 
to  indicate  the  cause  of  the  present  condition  of  the  growths.  You  say 
“  the  cut-back  stem  has  not  bled  a  drop,”  and  that  the  top  shoot  of  the 
Vine  is  all  right.  Just  so,  the  flow  of  sap  being  always  strongest  at  the 
extremity,  and  there  was  not  sufficient  for  all  the  growths.  No  doubt  the 
Vine  will  come  stronger  later  on — that  is,  when  it  has  made  roots  corre¬ 
sponding  to  the  top,  or  sufficient  to  supply  the  requisite  sap.  As  for  the 
one  shoot  on  the  Black  Hamburgh  adjoining  going  in  the  same  way,  we 
can  form  no  opinion  as  to  the  cause  in  this  particular  instance.  Such 
isolated  occurrences  are  not  uncommon  in  vineries,  and  may  arise  from 
variations  in  bud  development  and  maturation. 
Planting  Vines  {0.  Simpson). — The  Vines  should  be  planted  out 
without  delay,  especially  as  they  have  not  been  cut  down,  which  must  not 
now  be  done,  as  they  would  no  doubt  bleed,  and  this  weakens  and  retards 
the  growth.  Instead  of  shortening,  rub  off  the  buds  at  the  upper  part 
of  the  cane  and  down  to  a  couple  of  buds  from  the  base  provided  these 
are  in  a  light  position,  and  when  the  shoots  from  these  are  a  foot  long  the 
cane  may  be  cut  away.  Reserve  the  most  promising  shoot,  cutting  off 
the  other  when  the  one  selected  has  got  a  good  start.  This  will  give 
you  a  stout  cane,  and  a  free  rod  has  considerable  value  in  after  years. 
With  good  management  the  Vines  will  grow  20  feet  or  more,  and  can 
be  cut  down  next  season  to  three  buds  above  the  lowest  wire  of  the 
trellis.  By  leaving  the  Vines  full  length  now  the  growth  will  be 
relatively  weak,  though  you  may,  if  the  wood  of  the  canes  is  well 
ripened,  allow  a  few  more  buds  to  start,  pinching  all  but  the  leader. 
The  other  plan,  however,  is  the  more  satisfactory  in  the  end. 
Seedling  Cyclamens  (/.  Thomson). — The  seedlings  ought  now  to  be 
placed  singly  in  3-inch  pots,  and  after  April  grown  in  frames  during 
the  summer,  with  plenty  of  air  after  becoming  established,  shading  from 
bright  sunshine,  a  single  thickness  of  tiffany  when  the  sun  is  powerful 
being  sufficient.  By  July  most  of  the  plants  will  have  filled  the  pots 
with  roots,  and  they  should  then  be  shifted  into  5-inch,  or  if  the  plants 
are  very  strong  into  6-inch  pots,  in  which  they  will  flower.  Good 
drainage  must  be  provided,  and  a  compost  used  of  turfy  loam  and  leaf  soil 
in  equal  parts,  with  a  free  admixture  of  sharp  sand.  The  roots  proceed 
from  the  base  of  the  fleshy  rootstocks,  and  these  should  only  be  about 
half  covered  with  soil,  leaving  the  tops  clear  from  whence  the  leaves  and 
flowers  proceed.  The  plants  must  be  kept  near  the  glass  to  prevent 
drawing,  shading  in  bright  weather  only,  watering  liberallj’,  but  not 
excessively,  and  sprinkling  them  pn  fine  afternoons  to  encourage  growth 
and  keep  the  plants  free  from  red  spider  and  thrips.  The  plants  should 
be  housed  in  September,  assigning  them  a  light  position  in  a  greenhouse  ; 
but  they  flower  best  in  a  temperature  of  50°  to  55°,  though  when  in  bloom 
they  last  much  longer  in  a  temperature  of  45°.  They  require  a  humid 
atmosphere  during  the  summer,  and  the  pots  should  stand  on  a  damp 
base,  not  on  dry  boards  or  an  open  stage. 
Figs  Going  Off  {Wilts). — The  cause  is  the  failure  to  flowe’*,  and 
that  is  induced  by  excessive  vigour,  or  the  drawing  away  of  nourishment 
by  the  growth.  Thus  Fig  trees  grown  for  the  first  crop  are  often  stopped 
very  closely  at  the  commencement  of  growth  to  concentrate  the  energies 
on  the  Figs,  and  very  little  syringing  is  practised,  as  this  tends  to  promote 
wood  growth,  and  also  interferes  with  the  opening  of  the  fruit  for  aeration 
of  the  flowers.  Of  course  root  action  has  a  great  deal  to  do  with  the 
vigour,  the  trees  often  being  too  rampant  in  growth,  which  can  only  be 
overcome  by  lifting  and  confining  the  roots  to  narrow  borders  of 
calcareous  and  firm  material,  then  the  trees  grow  slowly,  sturdily,  and 
fruitfully.  After  the  fruit  has  taken  its  first  swelling,  and  remains 
stationary  for  a  time,  water  should  be  kept  from  the  apices,  then  they 
will  flower,  and  after  that  swell  freely  up  to  changing  ;  when  ripening, 
water  must  again  be  kept  from  the  fruits.  Fig  trees  are  almost  always 
trained  with  the  points  of  the  shoots  away  from  the  sun,  and  their  last 
made  growths,  where  the  first-crop  fruits  are  produced,  do  not  get  well 
ripened,  then,  when  the  rush  of  sap  comes  in  the  early  stages,  away  the 
trees  go  to  wood.  In  a  house  where  Figs  always  cast  the  fruit,  the  trees 
on  being  moved  to  the  back  of  the  house,  confining  the  roots  to  a  narrow 
border,  and  training  the  shoots  down  the  trellis,  gave  grand  results  in 
both  the  first  and  second  crops,  because  the  growth  was  then  sturdy  and 
the  points  thoroughly  matured. 
