314 
JOURNAL  OF  nORTIOULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDmER. 
April  7,  1898. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should,  until 
further  notice,  be  directed  to  “  The  Editor,”  8.  Rose  Hill  Road, 
Wandsworth,  S.W.,  and  HOT  to  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers, 
Fleet  Street.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately  to 
any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to 
unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  departmental  writers 
are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they  may  receive  on 
Gardening  and  Bee  subjects  through  the  post.  If  information 
be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any  particular 
authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be  made  to  obtain 
it  by  the  Editor.  Letters  of  inquiry  must  be  accompanied  by 
the  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers,  but  these  will  neither  he 
published  nor  disclosed  when  initials  or  nom  de  'plumes  are  given 
for  the  purpose  of  replies. 
Correspondents  .should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  it  is  convenient  when 
each  question  is  written  on  a  separate  sheet.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  he  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
Abnormal  Calceolaria  (F.  A.  Z).). — The  flowers  are  rather  prone  to 
change  by  the  suppression  of  some  parts  or  the  multiplication  or  malforma¬ 
tion  of  others.  Your  specimen  had  the  moisture  extracted  from  it  to 
such  an  extent  by  the  cotton  wool  that  it  was  quite  shrivelled.  So  far  as 
we  could  comprehend  its  original  character  the  flower  represents  a  case 
of  both  suppression  and  malformation.  There  is  no  accounting  for  such 
freaks  in  flowers. 
Ixoras  (./.  W.  T.'). — The  soil  generally  employed  for  these  beautiful 
stove  plants  consists  of  about  two  parts  fibrous  peat,  one  each  of  loam 
and  good  leaf  soil,  with  a  free  sprinkling  of  bruised  charcoal  and 
sharp  sand.  They  re(iuire  brisk  heat  and  moisture  during  the  growing 
period,  careful  watering  to  maintain  healthy  root  action,  and  topping 
with  judgment,  some  requiring  a  longer  time  to  develop  flower  trusses 
than  others.  More  detailed  information  shall  be  given  in  an  article, 
for  which  we  hope  you  will  not  have  very  long  to  wait. 
Asparagus  ( Young  Grower). — You  will  find  that  to  insure  the  best 
results  it  will  be  necessary  to  have  the  rows  at  least  18  inches  apart,  and 
the  plants  15  inches  asunder  in  the  rows.  The  plants  should  be  placed 
a,stride  a  ridge  formed  by  taking  out  a  small  trench  on  both  sides  of  the 
line  at  an  angle  of  about  45°,  and  if  the  sharp  edge  is  rounded  a  good 
seat  for  the  plant  is  secured,  placing  it  so  that  the  crown  will  be  2  to 
3  inches  below  the  general  level.  Spread  the  roots  straight  in  the 
trenches,  cover  with  soil,  and  make  moderately  firm,  then  place  the  soil 
over  the  crowns.  The  plants  should  not  be  more  than  two  years  old,  for 
nothing  is  gained  by  planting  older  ;  indeed,  good  one  year’s  plants  are 
the  best.  The  blanching  is  efiFected  by  placing  soil  from  between  the 
pws  over  the  crowns  in  early  spring,  which  is  removed  after  the  cutting 
is  completed,  leaving  a  depth  of  about  3  inches  only. 
Canker  in  Fruit  Trees  (Y.  Tacistock). — The  subject  of  canker  has  been 
many  times  and  full)  discussed,  also  illustrated,  in  the  Journal  of  Horti¬ 
culture,  vih\ch  you  are,  perhaps,  a  comparatively  modern  reader.  The 
active  cause  of  canker  in  Apple,  Pear,  and  some  forest  trees,  is  a  fungus, 
though  there  is  a  form  caused  by  a  mite.  Attacks  are  induced  by  the 
condition  of  the  trees.  Those  which  are  in  a  thoroughly  healthy  state, 
root  and  branch,  the  wood  well  fortified  by  mineral  matter  gathered 
from  the  soil,  and  the  leaves  clear  and  stout,  through  development  under 
direct  exposure  to  the  sun — such  trees  are  not  prone  to  canker.  Very  old 
trees  may  be  said  to  canker  because  they  are  old,  and  have  long  since 
abstracted  the  requisite  nutriment  from  the  soil.  When  young  trees 
canker  they  are  either  in  an  ill- fed  debiliiated  state,  or  in  a  gross 
succulent  condition— plethoric,  through  the  roots  penetrating  a  deep  and, 
perhaps,  wet  medium,  deficient  in  the  constituents  which  are  essential 
to  sound  growth.  Succulent  stems  are  injured  by  frost,  though  the  scar 
at  first  may  lie  unobserved,  yet  shrinkage  occurs,  and  the  fungus  spores 
find  entrance.  With  a  multitude  of  fibrous  roots  permeating  the  upper 
layer  of  soil,  and  this  containing  phosphates,  potash,  and  lime,  kept 
moist  in  summer  by  a  covering  of  manure,  trees  are  seldom  infested 
with  canker.  Prevention  rests  in  sound  cultural  methods.  Remedial 
measures  must  be  in  accordance  with  actual  state  of  the  infected  trees. 
If  growing  robustly  they  may  require  root-pruning,  if  ^feebled  need 
generous  root  nourishment,  and  the  affected  plants  dress^  with  paraffin 
emulsion  or  Stockholm  tar.  A  clear  description  is  requisite  of  particular 
trees — ^their  probable  age,  character  of  growth,  weak  or  strong,  with  an 
indication  of  the  nature  of  the  soil  and  site  in  which  they'  are  growing. 
for  the  purpose  of  giving  advice  that  would  be  applicable  under  the 
circumstances. 
Red  Spider  on  Early  Forced  Vines  {Journeyman). — Red  spider 
generally  appears  more  or  less  on  all  early  forced  Vines,  Thoroughly 
cleansing  the  house  and  removing  the  loose  surface  soil  prevents  a  large 
amount  of  after  trouble.  After  trying  almost  everything,  we  have  found 
nothing  comparable  with  an  insecticide  containing  soap,  applied  at  a  safe 
strength  on  the  first  appearance  of  the  pest,  with  a  brush  or  sponge. 
Sulphur  applied  to  the  hot-water  pipes  heated  to  170°  or  more,  gives  off 
fumes  that  annihilate  red  spider,  white  fly,  and  spores  of  fungi,  but  some¬ 
times  injure  the  tender  skins  of  Grapes,  and  therefore  sulphur  must  be 
used  with  care.  Plenty  of  liquid  manure  at  the  roots,  with  due  supplies 
of  atmospheric  moisture  arising  from  light  mulchings  of  sweetened  horse 
droppings,  are  inimical  to  red  spider. 
Calla  Leaf  Spotted  (  W.  W.). — The  very  fine  leaves,  barring  the  brown 
spots  round  the  edge  here  and  there,  and  the  minute  white  specks  over 
the  surface,  account  for  the  production  of  the  splendid  spathes.  There 
is  no  disease  in  the  leaf,  and  yet  we  find  no  trace  of  their  presence, 
or  of  their  having  been  there,  beyond  the  minute  silvery  marks  which 
occur  on  the  common  Arum  leaves  very  decisively,  and  have  been  referred 
to  as  occasioned  by  oxalate  of  lime.  We  have  found  the  mixing  of  a  little 
air-slaked  best  chalk  lime  with  the  soil,  about  2i  per  cent.,  to  counteract 
the  tendency,  probably  due  to  organic  acid  in  the  soil.  The  discolouration 
and  shrinkage  are  due  to  moisture  resting  on  the  parts  affected,  not 
necessarily  from  being  placed  thereon,  but  in  consequence  of  the  parts 
being  in  contact  with  other  leaves,  though  it  may  occur  without  either  by 
transpiration  in  consequence  of  the  vigour,  this  moisture  hanging  on 
certain  parts,  and  causing  the  destruction  of  the  tissues.  We  have  found 
a  little  air  constantly,  thus  allowing  of  both  transpiration  and  the 
evaporation  of  the  moisture,  the  best,  if  not  only,  preventive.  It  is  hardly 
possible  to  grow  the  plants  without  such  brown  spots  under  ordinary 
circumstances,  but  we  have  had  to  produce  them  without  spot  on  leaf, 
and  found  nothing  serve  so  well  as  the  “  crack  ”  of  air  constantly.  Care 
must  also  be  taken  in  handling  the  plants,  as  the  least  bruise  on  a 
young  leaf  edge  develops  into  a  brown  patch  on  the  margin  by  the  time 
the  spathes  are  perfected.  We  are  obliged  for  the  charming  Roses. 
Sir  Watkin  Narcissus  Bulbs  Diseased  {G.  C.). — We  found  two  forms 
ot  “grubs”  on  the  moist  parts  of  the  bulbs,  but  they  were  considerably 
dried  in  consequence  of  your  misdirection  of  the  parcel.  It  was  despatched 
on  March  28th,  but  did  not  reach  us  until  nearly  midnight  on  Saturday, 
April  2nd.  The  creatures  were  in  the  decayed  scales,  and  are — 1,  a  small 
white  worm  of  the  family  Enchytrteidse,  quarter-inch  in  length,  and, 
viewed  under  a  pocket  lens,  white  or  silvery  in  appearance  ;  it  has  thirty 
segments,  and  of  setae  (bristles)  two  or  three  per  bundle.  The  name  of 
Enchytraeus  argenteus,  Mich.,  was  given  to  it  on  account  of  its  silver 
colour,  and  though  commonly  regarded  as  a  saphrophyte  certainly  leads 
a  parasitic  mode  of  life,  attacking  various  outdoor  plants,  such  as  Asters 
(causing  them  to  wither  suddenly  when  coming  into  flower).  Mignonette, 
and  various  bulbs.  We  have  also  found  it  in  the  decayed  parts  of  several 
plants  grown  under  glass.  It  appears  to  cause  the  decay  of  the  living 
bulb  scales  by  working  in  the  dead  ones,  and  from  these  passing  to  the 
parts  beneath,  already  browned  and  injured  by  contact.  We  have  not 
found  it  in  living  tissue,  but  its  action  between  the  bulb  scales  is 
unquestionably  the  cause  of  the  decay.  2,  A  small,  dirty  yellowish-white 
grub,  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  long,  with  a  black  or  dark  brown  head 
and  dark  brown  caudal  segments,  legless,  but  with  small  hairs  or  bristles 
on  the  segments.  It  is  the  larvas  of  the  St.  Mark’s  fly  (Bibio  Marci), 
often  very  destructive  to  the  roots  of  various  garden  plants,  especially 
Ranunculi  and  Narcissi.  We  have  found  several  hundreds  at  the  roots 
or  bulbs  of  Daffodils.  The  fly  generally  appears  about  St.  Mark’s  Day. 
The  larvae  of  the  insect  chiefly  live  on  decayed  matter,  but  on  bulbs  work 
between  the  scales  and  set  up  decay,  speedily  destroying  the  bulbs  or 
great  part  of  them.  The  fly  is  a  very  curious  two-winged  creature,  and 
very  active,  the  female  having  an  ovipositor,  and  uses  it  for  depositing 
eggs  in  the  crowns  of  the  bulbs,  even  entering  cracks  in  the  soil  to  get 
at  them.  The  larvae  hatching  work  their  way  in  the  decaying  scales, 
and  by  the  ferment  cause  the  decay  of  living  matter,  thus  providing  them¬ 
selves  with  available  nutrition  similar  to  maggots  in  the  living  flesh  of 
sheep,  and  also  allied  species  in  the  tissues  of  plants.  You  ask  for  a 
preventive  and  remedy.  We  have  found  three  more  or  less  effectual. 
1,  Fir  tree  oil  Insecticide,  following  the  instructions.  2,  Boluble 
petroleum  made  by  dissolving  IJ  lb.  of  softsoap  by  boiling  in  a  gallon 
of  water,  then  whilst  hot,  but  removing  from  the  fire  for  safety,  adding 
three  wineglassfuls  of  paraffin  oil,  and  stirring  briskly  until  amalga¬ 
mated.  This  is  diluted  to  12  gallons  with  hot  water,  and  applied  when 
cool  enough  by  means  of  a  rose  watering-can  to  the  ground,  previously 
loosened  at  the  surface  to  prevent  running  off,  and  using  1  gallon  per 
square  yard.  3,  Little’s  soluble  phenyle,  a  wineglassful  to  3  gallons  of 
water,  applying  in  the  same  way  as  2.  The  latter  gave  the  best 
results  as  regards  after  growth  —  1  in  240  fluid  measure  did  not 
injure  the  Narcissus  foliage,  which  is  smooth,  hence  not,  like  Cucumber 
and  Tomato  leafage,  easily  Injured.  Any  of  the  three  will  kill  both 
the  “whiteworm”  and  the  “grub,”  if  these  are  reached.  The  following 
chemical  fertiliser  is  also  advised  : — Bone  superphosphate,  dry  and 
crumbly,  5  parts  ;  muriate  of  potash,  80  per  cent,  purity,  3  parts  ;  and 
sulphate  of  ammonia  2  parts,  mixed,  4  ozs.  being  used  per  square  yard 
over  the  whole  surface  of  the  beds  when  the  foliage  is  dying  down. 
The  mixture  must  not  be  used  over  growing  plants,  and  if  the  bulbs 
are  very  near  the  surface  (ours  were  4  inches  deep)  only  half  of  the 
mixture  may  be  applied  at  one  time.  There  is  no  waste  of  the  fertilising 
substances  if  pointed  in  lightly,  but  if  rain  follow  soon  after  the  dressing 
there  is  no  need  of  pointing  in. 
