April  14.  1898. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
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main  stem,  and  either  train  upright  to  a  stake  or  to  a  wire  under  the 
roof  of  a  lean-to  or  span  structure. 
Cultivating  Tomatoes  in  pots  requires  that  the  attention  given  be 
very  regular,  and  that  growth  takes  place  in  the  full  sunshine  near  the 
glass  as  far  as  practicable.  When  the  nutriment  in  the  soil  has  been 
freely  extracted  by  the  mass  of  roots,  top-dressings  of  soil  of  a  rich 
character  must  be  applied,  this  being  done  as  often  as  roots  appear  on 
the  surface,  and  the  pots  admit  of  the  soil.  When  this  is  not 
conveniently  practicable,  additional  sustenance  can  be  afforded  by 
applications  of  liquid  manure,  also  sprinklings  of  artificials,  washing 
the  latter  in  with  clear  water.  Much  may  be  done  by  systematic 
feeding  to  continue  the  extension  of  the  plants,  the  setting  and 
swelling  of  the  young  fruit  at  the  same  time  that  the  advanced  part 
of  a  heavy  crop  is  being  brought  to  perfection. — E.  D.  S. 
VEGETABLES  FOR  HOME  AND  EXHIBITION. 
Kales. 
Though  Borecoles  do  not  come  within  the  exhibitor’s  category  to 
the  same  extent  as  others  previously  mentioned,  they  are  indispensable 
in  any  garden,  whether  large  or  small.  Hardy  m  character  and  robust 
in  habit,  all  that  Kale  requires  is  a  fairly  retentive  soil,  an  adequate 
supply  of  manure,  and  a  sufficiently  long  season  of  growth  to  insure 
sturdy  maturity  before  severe  weather  sets  in.  Success  lies  chiefly  in 
having  strong  healthy  plants  ready  to  take  the  place  of  early  crops  as 
ground  becomes  vacant.  There  are  few  gardens  in  which  space  can 
be  kept  purposely  for  this  crop,  nor  is  it  necessary  if  care  and  judgment 
be  exercised. 
Gardeners  must  be  always  looking  ahead,  and  with  winter  greens 
it  is  a  mistake  to  delay  the  sowing  till  the  ground  is  ready  to  receive 
the  plants,  by  which  time  is  lost,  as  they  are  only  attaining  to  planting 
size  in  the  seed  beds  when  they  should  be  establishing  themselves  in 
permanent  quarters.  On  the  other  hand,  it  is  an  error  to  begin  too 
soon,  or  the  plants  are  liable  to  be  spoilt  throiigh  overcrowding  in 
the  seed  bed  whilst  waiting  for  the  vacancy  they  are  intended  to  fill. 
Fortunately  Kales  are  more  accommodating  than  some  other  green 
vegetables,  and  do  not  suffer  to  the  same  extent  from  the  latter  cause, 
yet  thin  sowing  and  prompt  removals  are  golden  rules,  and  if  the  best 
results  are  desired  they  must  be  closely  adhered  to. 
Generally  speaking  two  sowings  of  this  crop  are  sufficient  for  the 
requirements  of  most  gardens,  the  first  to  be  made  about  the  middle  of 
March,  and  the  second  in  April,  though  the  exact  dates  are  determined 
by  locality.  Previous  notes  on  the  sowing  of  green  vegetables  are 
applicable  to  Kales,  and  the  scattering  of  wood  ashes  in  the  seed 
bed  acts  as  a  preventive  againgst  root  troubles.  Forethought  is 
necessary  in  transplanting,  and  the  earliest  plants,  if  ground  be  vacant, 
should  be  removed  in  June.  As  Kales  remain  longer  on  the  ground 
than  other  winter  greens,  jJanting  in  the  most  favourable  positions 
that  will  be  wanted  early  in  the  spring  for  other  crops  should  be 
avoided,  otherwise  the  plants  have  to  be  pulled  up  at  the  time  when 
they  are  most  useful.  In  small  gardens  where  it  is  necessary  to 
economise  space,  it  is  advisable  to  plant  Kale  and  other  winter  greens 
between  rows  of  second  early  Potatoes.  In  order  to  be  successful  in 
this  method  a  variety  of  somewhat  dwarf  close  habit  should  be  chosen, 
and  the  rows  of  Potatoes  must  be  30  inches  or  a  yard  apart.  Though 
it  is  preferable  to  plant  in  showery  weather.  Kales  are  of  such  a 
tenacious  character  that  even  in  the  driest  weather  they  rarely  fail 
to  start  if  water  is  applied  after  planting.  All  plants  should  he  in 
their  permanent  quarters  by  the  middle  of  July,  because  if  left  till 
later  they  have  little  chance  of  becoming  established  before  the  advent 
of  winter. 
Variegated  Kale  is  sometimes  grown  for  decorative  purposes,  and 
the  tinted  forms  in  conjunction  with  the  natural  curl  of  the  foliage  find 
favour  in  some  places.  Asparagus  Kale  is  probabl}’-  the  first  of  the 
family  in  point  of  flavour.  It  is  very  hardy,  and  produces  a  pro¬ 
fusion  of  sprouts  which  in  the  late  winter  and  early  spring  are  very 
acceptable.  The  next  two  for  quality  are  the  Cottager’s  Kale  and 
Dwarf  Green  Curled.  The  hearting  or  cabbaging  Kale  is  a  useful 
variety,  jmoducing  Cabbage-like  heads.  There  are  several  other 
varieties  of  long  standing,  and  of  taller  and  more  robust  habit, 
which  may  be  grown  if  quantity  is  the  prime  consideration  ;  but 
where  quality  is  fi  rst  looked  for,  as  it  should  be,  then  the  dwarf  com 
pact  growing  kinds,  such  as  those  mentioned,  are  the  best  to  grow. 
Another  vegetable  belonging  to  this  section  is  the  Kohl  Pabi, 
which  is  generally  of  more  interest  to  the  farmer  than  the  gardener. 
It  has  been  many  times  recommended  as  excellent  for  table,  but  the 
plant  has  made  little  headway  as  a  garden  vegetable,  fl'liere  is  no 
difficulty  about  its  cultivation,  and  if  sown  in  March  and  transplanted 
in  June  its  requirements  are  few,  and  at  some  tables  the  young  fleshy 
Turnip-like  stems  are  appreciated. 
Kale  is  sometimes  exhibited  in  collections  when  other  vegetables 
are  getting  scarce,  and  for  this  purpose  whole  stems  of  a  close-growing 
compact  variety  are  the  best.  It  is  not  as  an  exhibition  vegetable 
that  the  Kale  is  dwelt  upon  in  the  foregoing  notes,  but  rattier  to 
remind  growers  of  the  attention  that  is  needed  for  the  welfare  of  one 
of  the  most  useful  of  winter  greens. — Grower  and  Judge. 
ALLAMANDAiS  AND  THEIR  CULTURE. 
The  species  and  varieties  of  the  genus  Allaiiianda  (so  named  in 
memory  of  Dr.  Allamand  of  Leyden,  who  first  communicated  seeds 
of  this  genus  to  Linnaeus)  are  elegant  (so  called)  climbing  evergreen 
stove  plants.  Not  any  of  the  species  or  varieties,  however,  possess 
means  of  climbing — neither  tendrils  nor  stem  appendages  giving  them 
claim  to  the  title,  hence  it  rests  solely  on  the  freedom  of  growth  of  the 
shoots.  Besides,  at  least  one — namely,  A.  neriifolia,  is  a  shrub. 
More,  all  Allamandas  are  naturally  (or  so  grown  as  to  be  semi¬ 
evergreen,  or  practically)  deciduous. 
Allamandas  are  of  comparatively  easy  culture.  A.  Chelsoni, 
A.  Ilendersoni,  A,  nobilis,  and  A.  Schotti,  with  A.  cathartica  and 
A.  Wardleana,  if  variety  be  wanted,  trained  to  roof  trellises  fixed 
6  to  9  inches  from  the  glass,  are  gorgeous  by  the  beauty  of  their  foliage 
and  flowers  during  the  summer  months.  Trained  so  that  the  shoom 
have  full  access  to  the  light,  crowding  being  avoided  and  the  growths 
kept  trom  touching  the  glass  by  timely  attention  to  tying  loosely  to 
the  wires  of  the  trellis,  the  plants  produce  flowers  of  great  substance 
in  vast  profusion,  which  for  cutting  purposes  are  most  valuable.  The 
flowers,  however,  do  not  last  long  in  a  cut  state,  yet  sufficient  for 
table  decoration,  and  an  Allamanda  table,  with  a  setting  of  their  own 
foliage  in  contrast  with  hard-grown  Adiantum  cuneatum,  can  hardly 
be  excelled.  If  not  wanted  for  such  purpose  as  temporary  decoration, 
the  shoots  may  be  allowed  to  ramble  in  a  somewhat  natural  manner, 
and  thus  seen  more  or  less  depending  in  a  rather  thinly  disposed 
manner,  Allamandas  in  full  floral  array  present  a  unique  appearance. 
fl'he  flowering  depends  on  the  solidification  of  the  wood;  hence 
the  roof  system  of  training  results  in  the  greatest  floriferousness. 
Allamandas,  however,  are  required  to  be  portable,  so  that  when  in 
their  pjrime  they  can  be  transported  to  hall,  corridor,  or  staircase,  and 
on  occasion  exhibited.  For  these  purposes  the  plants  are  grown  in 
pots,  and  the  shoots  trained  to  formal  trellises  of  various  shapes.  Here, 
again,  light  proves  the  chief  factor  in  securing  a  floriferous  habit,  the 
growths  being  allowed  lo  spread  out  to  the  sun  till  the  flower  buds 
appear,  and  then  the  tying-in  has  to  be  done.  A.  Chelsoni  marks  its 
hatefulness  of  the  process  by  snapping,  A.  Ilendersoni  not  being  much 
less  resentful  of  tying-in  ;  also,  A.  Schotti  lets  it  be  known  that  careful 
diversion  from  a  natural  course  is  imperative.  Still,  excellent  specimens 
are  grown  on  formal  trellises,  A.  grandiflora  being  one  of  the  most 
accommodating,  and  in  well-grown  examples  very  beautiful.  A.  nerii¬ 
folia  naturally  forms  a  bush.  It  is  about  the  only  species  that 
admits  of  spray  cutting ;  hence  this  practice  gives  the  plant  a  con¬ 
tinuous  blooming  habit,  for,  given  plenty  of  light,  it  thus  pushes 
flowering  growths  successionally,  and,  though  not  equal  to  the  others 
in  size  and  beauty  of  flower,  deserves  a  place  in  the  stove  for  that 
purpose.  It  is  also  hardier  than  the  other  species,  consequently  bears 
conservatory  and  other  decorative  use  with  little,  if  any,  impairment. 
Indeed,  it  succeeds  in  a  lower  temperature,  a  point  of  some 
importance  in  small  establishments. 
Propagation. 
Allamandas  are  easily  propagated  by  cuttings  almost  at  any  time 
of  year,  but  the  spring  or  early  summer,  when  the  old  plants  are 
pruned  or  the  growths  become  rather  firm,  is  the  usual  time.  The  top 
of  the  shoots  comprise  the  parts  selected,  each  cutting  having  two  or 
three  joints,  removing  the  leaves  from  the  lower  one  or  two.  Place 
each  singly  in  a  small  pot,  using  a  compost  of  sandy  peat  and  sand  in 
equal  proportions,  press  the  soil  firmly  around  each  cutting,  and  water 
moderately,  the  soil  being  fairly  moist  to  begin  with.  Plunge  the  pots 
in  a  propagating  bed  having  a  bottom  heat  of  75°  to  80°,  attend  to 
shading  and  watering,  and  in  three  or  four  weeks  they  will  have 
emitted  roots,  and  have  made  some  growth.  Then  raise  the  pots  out 
of  the  plunging  material,  and  if  in  a  propagating  frame  gradually  inure 
to  the  air  of  the  house,  standing  the  pots  on  the  surface  of  the  bottom 
heat  bed. 
In  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks’  time  the  plants  will  have  filled  the 
small  pots  with  roots,  and  must  be  transferred  to  5-inch  pots,  and 
again  stood  on  the  propagating  bed.  The  moisture  constantly  arising 
from  the  bed  along  with  the  gentle  warmth  facilitates  growth.  When 
the  roots  have  got  hold  of  the  fresh  soil,  as  indicated  by  the  starting 
into  vigorous  growth,  pinch  the  point  of  each  plant  intended  to  be 
grown  on  a  trellis.  This  will  result  in  the  buds  left,  or  some  of  them, 
starting,  and  when  the  new  shoots  have  made  two  joints  take  out  their 
points.  When  the  pots  become  filled  with  roots  the  plants  should  be 
shifted  into  others  2  inches  larger  in  diameter,  and  this  may  be  again 
followed  up  as  fast  as  the  plants  fill  the  pots  with  roots.  Likewise  the 
stopping  of  the  shoots  may  be  followed  up  two  or  three  times  in  the 
