April  14,  1898 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
r>2i 
PiiALiENOPSis  John  Seden. 
Though  this  hybrid  is  by  no  means  new,  having  received  a  first- 
class  certificate  from  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  in  1888,  it 
attracted  much  attention  when  it  was  staged  at  the  Drill  Hall  by 
Messrs.  J.  Veitch  &  Sons  some  weeks  ago.  It  was  raised  from  a  cross 
between  P.  amabilis  and  P.  Luddemanniana,  and  is  certainly  one  of 
the  handsomest  of  the  hybrid  Phalsenopses.  Referring  to  P.  John 
Seden  (fig.  63),  Williams’  “  Orchid  Growers’  Manual”  says,  “  Of  all  the 
hybrid  Phalaenopses  raised  by  Mr.  Seden  this  is  undoubtedly  one  of 
the  finest,  and  has  deservedly  been  dedicated  to  its  raiser.  The 
flowers  measure  3  inches  across,  sepals,  petals,  and  lip  ivory  white, 
covered  over  the  whole  of  the  surface  with  minute  dots  of  purple.” 
It  is  a  chastely  beautiful  flower,  that  is  certain  to  receive  the  praises 
of  everyone  who  sees  it. 
Notes  on  Phal^nopsis. 
The  present  is  a  good  time  for  a  thorough  overhauling,  cleaning, 
top-dressing,  repotting  or  basketing  wherever  necessary  of  these 
beautiful  Orchids.  Considerably  more  care  is  necessary  with  these 
than  with  the  ordinary  distichous-leaved  kinds,  not  only  on  account 
of  the  roots  being  easily  injured,  but  also  because  these  plants  are  very 
easily  incommoded  by  disturbance  of  any  kind.  A  sudden  drop  in 
the  temperature  is  injurious,  and  for  this  reason  it  is  not  wise  to  take 
the  plants  to  the  potting  shed  unless  this  structure  is  properly  heated, 
and  care  is  taken  in  the  transit  of  the  plants  to  and  fro.  Usually  a 
temporary  bench  may  be  rigged  up  in  the  house,  or  a  portion  of  the 
stage  can  be  cleared,  and  this  prevents  the  possibility  of  a  check. 
Many  of  the  plants  will,  of  course,  he  in  flower  in  a  large  collec¬ 
tion,  and  these  will  not  be  pulled  about  until  after  the  blossoms  are 
past ;  but  all  others  that  rec[uire  attention  may  be  seen  to.  Where 
the  baskets  or  pots,  cylinders,  or  what  not  are  sound  and  large  enough 
for  the  plants,  these  will  not,  of  course,  be  taken  out  of  them ;  but  all 
the  sour,  decayed,  or  unsuitable  portions  of  the  compost  will  be  picked 
out  or  driven  out  by  a  forcible  jet  of  water  from  the  syringe.  Most  of 
the  roots  will  be  bared  in  the  process,  and  all  that  are  dead  will  be 
cut  clean  out,  carefully  avoiding  at  the  same  time  any  injury  to  the 
sound  ones. 
The  hard  material  used  may  also  have  become  somewhat  heavily 
charged  with  moisture,  if  not  actually  sour,  and  any  pieces  not  having 
roots  attached  may  be  removed,  and  new  clean  pieces  substituted. 
Beyond  these  nothing  but  a  little  sphagnum  moss  is  necessary  as 
compost,  and  this  will  be  used  in  a  greater  or  less  quantity  accorMng 
to  the  habit  of  the  species  and  the  size  of  the  individual  plant.  In 
every  case  it  is  better  rather  under  than  over  done,  as  the  moss 
naturally  keeps  alive  in  the  moist  heat  of  a  tropical  Orchid  house,  and 
would  soon  become  too  thick.  _ 
The  cushion  of  green  moss  is  indeed  a  great  help  to  the  cultivator, 
for  it  acts  as  a  moisture  conductor  to  the  roots,  and  is  the  best  index 
to  the  state  of  the  compost.  In  replacing  the  material  carefully  avoid 
leaving  it  in  such  a  way  that  the  moss  and  crocks  shift  about,  as  when 
the  plants  are  taken  down  for  examination  or  dipping,  the  roots  may 
be  just  taking  hold  of  a  loose  piece,  and  are  snapped  off  short  to  the 
detriment  of  the  plant.  Bring  the  surface  of  the  moss  up  in  a  neat 
cone-shaped  mound,  the  top  of  this  coming  just  under  the  base  of  the 
plant,  and  trim  off  all  ragged  ends,  these  if  left  making  it  difficult  to 
determine  the  true  state  of  the  compost  as  regards  moisture. 
While  the  plants  are  in  hand  they  may  be  thoroughly  cleaned  if 
any  suspicion  of  insects  are  present,  for  it  must  be  kept  in  mind 
that  these  lovely  Moth  Orchids  are  very  sensitive  and  easily  injured 
thereby;  and,  moreover,  their  dislike  for  sprinklings  renders  them 
peculiarly  liable  to  insect  attacks.  The  vaporising  fumigators  have  done 
wonders  towards  making  Orchid  growing  a  success,  for  one  always  felt 
a  disinclination  to  use  tobacco  smoke  for  these  ])lants  whenever  the 
other  method  is  as  safe  and  harmless  in  its  action  as  it  is  effectual  in 
killing  the  insects.  The  only  care  necessary  is  to  take  out  of  the  house 
any  plants  in  bloom,  for  the  texture  of  all  Orchid  flowers  is  very 
susceptible  to  injury,  as  witness  the  havoc  wrought  by  fog  in  and  near 
the  metropolis.  _ 
The  atmosphere  of  the  house  after  the  plants  have  been  put  to  rights 
at  the  root  should  be  kept  very  moist,  and  it  is  a  good  time  to  slightly 
increase  the  temperature,  for  no  matter  how  carefully  these  necessary 
cultural  operations  are  gone  about,  there  always  is,  and  always  must 
be,  a  slight  check  consequent  upon  them.  The  slight  rise,  too,  at  this 
time  of  year  is  quite  necessary  in  the  ordinary  course  of  events,  for  it 
will  be  noticed  that  both  roots  and  top  growth  are  on  the  move  and 
the  season  of  activity  has  commenced. 
In  everything  connected  with  their  culture,  gradually  altered  con¬ 
ditions  are  more  conducive  to  success  than  sudden  changes,  and  a  rise 
of  a  few  degrees  in  the  course  of  a  week  or  ten  days  is  bettor  than 
pushing  it  up  all  at  once.  Watering  at  the  root  deserves  a  passing 
notice.  When  much  disturbance  has  taken  place,  the  root  will  have 
lost  the  power  of  gathering  moisture  to  a  certain  extent,  and  a  limited 
supply  will  be  necessary.  Thus  the  necessity  for  a  moist  atmosi)here 
will  be  apparent,  for  whether  or  not  there  is  absorption  through  the 
foliage,  it — the  abundant  moisture— will  certainly  check  too  rapid 
evaporation.  _ 
Wherever  it  has  not  been  done,  the  shadings  must  be  put  in 
order,  and  for  Phalaenopsis  there  is  nothing  to  beat  the  lath  blinds 
that  are  advancing  in  favour  with  orchidists.  The  chink  of  light 
between  the  laths  allows  the  quickening  efforts  of  the  sun  to  be  felt  by 
the  plants  ;  but  the  rays  do  not  stay  long  enough  in  one  particular 
position  to  do  any  harm  by  burning  or  scorching,  as  it  is  termed. 
Though  for  Odontoglossum,  and  some  others  of  the  very  coolest  section, 
these  blinds  may  admit  rather  too  much  sun  to  allow  of  the  temperature 
being  kept  down  to  its  proper  limit,  for  all  heat  and  light-loving  tropical 
kinds  they  are  a  capital  invention. — H.  R.  R. 
BEET. 
Beet  is  indispensable  in  all  well  managed  establishments,  being  in 
request  at  almost  all  seasons  of  the  year  ;  for  salads,  garnishing,  and 
general  use,  it  is  the  most  valuable  of  any  of  the  tap-rooted  salad 
vegetables.  Where  large  quantities  are  called  for,  and  that  to  extend 
over  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  several  sowings  are  necessary  to  have 
roots  that  are  tender  and  of  the  desired  colour.  The  Turnip  rooted 
variety  is  the  one  that  arrives  at  maturity  in  the  shortest  time,  and  an  early 
supply  may  be  had  by  sowing  in  a  warm  position  early  in  April  on  a 
rich  mellow  soil,  while  for  succession  one  or  more  long  varieties  may  be 
sown,  as  these  are  usually  more  popular  than  the  Turnip  rooted.  One  of 
the  best  varieties  for  this  sowing  or  for  later  use  is  Cheltenham  Green 
Top,  while  those  who  prefer  roots  of  a  darker  hue  would  do  well  to 
select  Sutton’s  Dark  Blood  Red  and  Middleton  Bark  Favourite.  A  late 
sowing  should  be  made  the  last  week  in  May,  and  in  some  seasons  this 
may  turn  out  the  best  crop  of  the  whole  of  the  sowings,  producing 
moderate  sized,  well  shaped  roots. 
The  ground  must  be  well  worked,  and  if  possible  a  good  dressing  of 
wood  ashes  mixed  into  the  soil  when  digging,  taking  care  to  incorporate 
these  well  up  with  the  soil,  and  by  taking  small  spits  this  is  easily  done. 
For  exhibition,  Pragnell’s  is  one  of  the  handsomest  and  brightest,  and 
should  be  grown  on  soil  heavily  manured  the  previous  year.  Beet  follows 
well  after  Peas,  Celery,  or  any  of  the  Brassica  family.  On  light  and  sandy 
soils  the  crop  will  be  much  benefited  by  a  light  sprinkling  of  salt,  taking 
care,  however,  that  it  does  not  come  directly  in  contact  with  the  growing 
plant. — ^C.  Fosteb,  Doddington. 
