April  14,  1898. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
335 
FEUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — Instead  of  striving  to  renovate  plants  that  have  been  in 
bearing  all  the  winter,  it  has  become  a  practice  to  uproot  them,  which 
answers  admirably  for  market  purposes.  But  home  growers  are  obliged 
to  make  shift  with  the  old  plants  until  a  supply  can  be  had  from  frames 
or  pits,  so  the  winter  fruiters  have  to  be  renovated  at  the  roots,  and  that 
without  prejudicing  the  successional  supply  of  fruit.  Stopping,  training, 
and  cutting  out  the  old  growths  must  be  followed  up,  and  copious  water¬ 
ings  given  as  necessary.  Assist  plants  in  full  bearing  with  abundant 
supplies  of  weak  liquid  manure,  and  earth  the  roots  occasionally.  Damp 
the  floor  about  8  A.M.  and  3  p.m.,  the  foliage  being  syringed  lightly  on 
fine  afternoons,  and  keep  the  evaporation  troughs  charged  with  guano 
water  or  liquid  manure.  Shading  will  be  most  needed  after  a  period  of 
dull  weather  to  prevent  flagging. 
Melons.  —  In  the  earliest  house  the  plants  are  swelling  their  fruits 
and  require  supports.  Remove  all  surplus  fruits  and  all  flowers,  also 
superfluous  growths,  stopping  and  tying  as  necessary.  Afford  efficient 
supplies  of  water,  giving  liquid  manure  as  necessary  for  the  maintenance 
of  a  free  growth.  Genial  atmospheric  moisture  must  be  maintained  by 
damping  early  in  the  morning  and  afternoon,  syringing  the  plants  lightly 
about  3  P.M,  on  bright  afternoons.  Later  plants  showing  fruit  should, 
unless  abundant  and  the  plants  vigorous,  have  the  first  blossoms  removed. 
Secure  a  somewhat  higher  temperature  and  drier  atmosphere  during  the 
setting,  only  affording  as  much  moisture  as  will  prevent  flagging.  Stop 
the  shoots  at  one  joint  beyond  the  fruit,  but  employ  the  knife  as  little  as 
possible  during  the  setting  period. 
In  pits  and  frames  ample  bottom  heat  must  be  maintained,  observing 
the  conditions  previously  given  during  setting.  When  the  fruits  are  set 
and  swelling  they  should  be  placed  on  a  piece  of  slate.  If  canker  appear 
at  the  collar  rub  quicklime  into  the  affected  part  until  quite  dry,  repeating 
this  as  necessary. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  House. — Where  such  varieties  as 
Alexander,  Waterloo,  and  Early  Louise  Reaches,  with  Advance  and 
Cardinal  Nectarines  are  grown,  the  stoning  process  will  be  over,  and  to 
accelerate  the  ripening  they  may  be  given  a  night  temperature  of  65’’,  but 
falling  to  60°  on  cold  nights.  Admit  a  little  air  constantly.  Close  the 
house  at  80°,  sufficiently  early  to  allow  of  an  advance  to  85°  or  90°,  the 
trees  being  well  syringed  and  good  atmospheric  moisture  secured.  Remove 
the  leaves  over  or  in  front  of  the  fruit,  and  turn  this  with  its  apex  to  the 
light  by  thin  laths  placed  across  the  trellis.  Syringing  should  cease  when 
the  fruit  commences  ripening,  but  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere 
must  be  maintained  for  the  benefit  of  the  foliage  by  damping  the  paths 
and  borders  twice  a  day  and  keeping  the  soil  properly  moist. 
Second  House.— The  trees  in  the  structure  started  in  Januarjq  and 
brought  forward  gently,  have  the  fruit  in  a  forward  state,  the  disbudding 
completed,  and  the  shoots  that  are  to  follow  those  now  fruiting  laid  in. 
Always  allow  plenty  of  room  in  the  ties,  and  do  not  keep  them  closely  tied 
down  for  some  time  longer.  Allow  no  more  growths  to  remain  than  are 
necessary  for  next  year’s  fruiting,  or  for  the  extension  of  the  trees.  Stop 
gross  shoots  or  remove  them,  as  it  is  highly  important  the  sap  be  equally 
distributed,  and  an  equality  of  vigour  maintained  through  the  branches  of 
each  tree.  Finch  laterals  at  the  first  joint,  and  shoots  retained  to  attract 
the  sap  to  the  fruit  should  only  be  allowed  moderate  extension.  Endeavour 
to  provide  an  equal  distribution  of  foliage  that  will  shade  and  protect  the 
strong  wood  from  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  as  the  season  advances. 
Ventilate  freely,  but  carefully,  so  as  to  avo  d  cold  currents  of  air  and 
sudden  depressions  of  temperature.  Water  the  inside  borders  copiously, 
and  keep  them  mulched  with  sweet  rather  lumpy  manure. 
Trees  Started  in  February. — Examine  them  frequently  for  disbudding, 
and  this  is  best  done  gradually,  the  strongest  parts  of  the  trees  being 
commenced  with.  As  the  fruit  is  swelling  freely,  remove  those  worst 
situated,  and  leave  only  a  few  more  than  will  be  required  for  the  crop, 
one  to  every  square  foot  of  trellis  covered  by  the  trees  being  ample  for 
the  large-fruited  varieties,  and  one  to  every  9  inches  square  for  the 
medium- sized  and  Nectarines.  Syringe  early  on  fine  mornings,  give  a 
little  air  [shortly  afterwards,  gradually  increase  it,  and  close  about 
3  P.M. ;  but  if  the  weather  be  very  bright  later  closing  must  be  practised. 
Trees  Started  in  March. — The  trees  are  out  of  bloom,  set  the  fruit  well, 
and  aphides  made  appearance.  Fumigation  or  vaporisation  must  be 
practised  carefully,  and  on  two  or  three  consecutive  evenings.  Syringe 
moderately  in  the  morning,  and  on  fine  afternoons,  always  early  enough 
to  allow  of  the  foliage  becoming  dry  before  night.  Disbud  gradually,  and 
rub  off  all  small  and  badly  placed  fruit  as  soon  as  the  most  prominent 
shows  signs  of  taking  the  lead.  Ventilate  freely  on  all  favourable 
occasions,  and  close  early  with  a  view  to  husbanding  the  sun’s  heat,  but 
avoid  a  close  viiiated  atmosphere,  admitting  a  little  air  constantly  to 
prevent  it. 
Late  Houses. — The  trees  are  in  full  blossom.  Ventilate  freely  and 
keep  safe  from  frost.  To  insure  a  good  set  it  is  advisable  to  turn  on  the 
heat  in  the  morning,  so  as  to  raise  the  temperature  to  50°,  and  keep  it  at 
that,  with  a  gentle  circulation  of  air,  turning  off  the  heat  early  in  the 
afternoon,  so  as  to  allow  of  the  pipes  cooling  before  night,  and  the 
temperature  falling  to  its  night  minimum  of  40°  to  45°,  which  is  quite 
safe,  and  ought  to  be  secured  after  the  blossoms  expand,  with  a  little  air 
to  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  through  the  night  on  the  flowers. 
Artificial  fertilisation  should  be  resorted  to  as  necessary. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Asparagus. — Fresh  beds  may  bo  formed  during  this  month,  fewer 
failures  occurring  when  the  plants  are  moved  after  top  growth  has 
commenced  than  when  they  are  transplanted  earlier.  In  any  case  the 
delicate  root  fibres  ought  to  be  exposed  as  little  as  possible  to  cold  drying 
winds,  and  any  plants  that  have  been  sent  from  a  distance  and  become 
very  dry  should  directly  they  arrive  be  spread  thinly  on  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  and  sprayed  with  water  prior  to  covering,  first  with  fine  sandy 
soil  and  then  with  mats.  If  kept  moist  the  roots  will  plump  up,  root  fibres 
form,  and  the  plants  be  in  a  fit  state  to  put  out  in  a  week  or  ten  days. 
In  any  case  more  than  ordinary  pains  ought  to  be  taken  in  planting 
Asparagus,  burying  the  plants  roughly  meaning  probably  the  loss  of  a 
season.  Cold  clayey  soils  require  the  most  preparation,  and  light  sandy 
ground  the  least.  Correct  the  retentiveness  of  the  former  by  a  free 
admixture  ol  sand,  fine  mortar  or  lime  rubbish,  charred  soil  and  ashes, 
leaf  mould  and  fine  peat,  well  mixing  this  with  the  top  spit  rather  than 
burying  it  deeply.  Raised  beds  are  most  desirable  in  low  damp  places, 
and  are  largely  formed  in  other  positions.  These  beds  may  be  4  feet 
wide,  with  alleys  18  inches  wide  between,  and  will  hold  three  rows,  the 
two  outer  ones  being  arranged  about  9  inches  from  the  edges.  Lighter 
soils  may  be  deeply  dug  or  trenched  as  for  ordinary  garden  crops,  mixing 
solid  manure  freely  with  the  bottom  spit,  and  some  fine  well-decayed 
manure  with  the  top  soil.  Raised  beds  can  be  dispensed  with  in  the  case 
of  warm  non-retentive  soil,  arranging  the  rows  2  feet  to  3  feet  apart  on 
the  level.  Extra  space  must  be  allowed  if  large  Asparagus  is  desired,  but 
a  greater  bulk  of  good  produce  can  be  cut  from  a  given  space  of  ground 
when  the  plants  are  disposed  15  inches  to  18  inches  apart  in  the  rows. 
In  planting  take  care  to  spread  out  the  roots  in  a  natural  manner,  cover¬ 
ing  them  and  the  crowns  with  about  3  inches  of  the  finest  soil.  Slugs  are 
destructive  to  young  Asparagus  growths,  and  should  be  warded  off  with 
the  aid  of  soot  and  lime. 
Sowing  Asparagus. — Seeds  should  be  sown  at  once,  or  directly  the 
ground  can  be  got  into  a  suitable  condition,  either  where  a  portion  of  the 
plants  are  to  remain,  or  in  a  well-prepared  site,  from  which  the  plants 
may  be  moved  after  one  or  two  seasons’  growth.  In  the  former  case 
prepare  the  sites  much  as  advised  in  the  case  of  beds  to  be  planted, 
sowing  two  or  three  seeds  where  plants  are  required.  In  the  other 
instance  sow  the  seeds  thinly  in  drills  1  foot  apart.  Seeds  may  also  be 
sown  thinly  over  the  surface  of  beds  not  so  fully  occupied  by  plants  as 
desirable,  the  seedlings  duly  thinned  out  and  allowed  to  grow  without 
being  cut  from  for  two  years,  putting  new  life  into  the  beds. 
Broccoli  and  Borecole. — Onl}  the  autumn  varieties  of  Broccoli  should 
be  raised,  and  planted  early.  Late  in  April  or  early  in  May  is  quite 
soon  enough  to  sow  seeds  of  midseason  and  late  varieties,  leggy,  over¬ 
grown  plants  being  the  first  to  feel  the  ill  effects  of  frost.  ISprouting 
Broccoli  is  an  exception  to  the  rule,  this  requiring  a  longer  period  of 
growth,  and  should  be  put  out  early.  Borecole  sown  now,  or  a  fortnight 
later,  will  be  ready  for  planting  quite  as  soon  as  the  ground  in 
most  gardens  can  be  spared  for  the  crop.  The  value  of  Asparagus  or 
Buda  K  lie  should  not  be  overlooked,  this  rarely  succumbing  to  frost,  and 
the  sturdy  plants  yield  abundance  of  succulent  tops  long  after  the  other 
winter  greens  have  run  to  seed. 
Cauliflower.  —  March  and  the  early  part  of  April  proved  most  unfavour¬ 
able  for  planting  Cauliflowers  wintered  under  glass  or  otherwise  protected, 
and  those  who  risked  them  in  the  open  will  have  many  failures,  and  more 
plants  must  be  put  out.  They  move  best  out  of  pots,  and  time  will  be 
gained  by  first  establishing  recently  raised  plants  in  3-inch  pots  under 
glass  before  trusting  them  in  the  open.  Autumn  Giant  sown  in  the  open 
now,  and  planted  out  when  large  enough  on  well  prepared  ground,  would 
heart  in  during  October  and  November,  a  portion  of  the  stock  being 
available  for  lifting  and  storing  in  pits  m  the  autumn. 
Savoy  Cabbage.  —  Tom  Thumb,  and  other  dwarf  early-hearting 
varieties,  may  be  sown  now,  as  these  are  frequently  of  good  service  in  the 
autumn,  but  the  midseason  and  late  varieties  may’  well  be  sown  at  the 
same  time  as  late  Broccoli.  If  raised  and  planted  early  they  are  liable  to 
become  very  coarse,  hearting-in  earlier  than  desirable,  and  not  with¬ 
standing  frost. 
Carrot. — Very  large  roots  are  of  little  or  no  value  for  cooking  purposes, 
the  preference  being  given  to  those  medium  and  small  in  size.  Early 
sowing  is  conducive  to  coarseness  of  roots.  The  middle  of  April  is  soon 
enough  in  most  localities  to  sow  seed  of  recognised  main  crop  Carrots, 
and  with  these  may  also  be  sown  the  larger  Horn  or  stump-rooted 
varieties.  Carrots  should  have  a  well  prepared  site — that  is  to  say,  the 
ground  must  be  brought  into  a  finely  divided  state  to  a  good  depth.  If  the 
ground  were  well  manured  for  the  preceding  crop  no  manure  ought  to  be 
needed  for  Carrots,  and  the  least  that  can  be  done  if  Iresh  manure  is  used 
is  to  dig  this  in  deeply,  contact  with  manure  causing  the  roots  to  fork. 
The  drills  for  strong-topped  varieties  should  be  12  inches  apart,  2  inches 
less  sufficing  for  the  Horn  varieties.  If  the  Carrot  maggot  has  proved 
troublesome  in  previous  years,  dust  fresh  wood  ashes  lightly  (an  excess 
may  do  harm)  along  the  drills  before  covering  the  seed. 
Salsafy,  Scorzonera,  and  Chicory. — Early  sowing  is  not  desirable  in 
either  case.  If  the  seeds  are  sown  now  the  roots  will  become  quite  large 
enough,  and  comparatively  few  plants  will  run  prematurely  to  seed.  For 
these,  again,  no  solid  manure  ought  to  be  needed,  and  none  should  come 
into  contact  with  the  tap  roots  anywhere  near  the  surface.  Draw  shallow 
drills  15  inches  apart,  and  sow  the  seed  thinly  in  these.  Chicory 
