April  28,  1898. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
379 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — Plants  in  houses  and  hot-water  heated  pits  must  be 
syringed  twice  a  day,  but  let  it  be  done  iudiciously  The  dusting  of  the 
pipes  with  a  little  flowers  of  sulphur  usually  suffices  to  keep  red  spider  and 
white  tiy  in  subjection  and  also  prevents  fungi  spores  from  germinating. 
Plants  growing  in  manure-heated  frames  will  not  need  syringing  so  often  ; 
a  sprinkling  at  closing  time  will  be  sufficient  on  bright  days,  and  not  at 
all  when  the  weather  is  dull.  Give  liberal,  but  not  unnecessary,  waterings 
of  liquid  manure  at  the  mean  temperature  of  the  house  to  plants  in  full 
bearing.  Avoid  overcropping  and  overcrowding  the  growths.  Attend  to 
the  necessary  stopping,  thinning  and  lying,  keeping  a  succession  of  fruit 
growth.  No  more  fire  heat  should  be  used  than  is  absolutely  essential. 
Make  another  planting  if  necessary,  so  as  to  maintain  a  supply  of  fruit 
•exceeding  rather  than  equal  to  the  demand. 
Melons. — Early  Plants. — When  the  fruit  begins  ripening  lessen  the 
supply  of  water  at  the  roots,  but  not  so  as  to  distress  the  plants,  for  if 
the  foliage  has  been  kept  clean  and  the  roots  are  in  good  condition  a 
second  crop  may  be  had.  Withhold  atmospheric  moisture,  or  rather  keep 
water  from  the  fruit,  and  provide  a  circulation  of  dry,  warm  air,  increasing 
the  temperature  to  70°  to  75°  artificially,  and  80°  to  90°  with  sun  heat. 
Cut  the  fruits  before  they  are  very  ripe,  keeping  them  in  an  even  tempe¬ 
rature  for  two  or  three  days.  If  any  fruits  show  a  tendency  to  crack,  cut 
the  shoots  about  half  way  through  with  a  sharp  knife  a  few  inches  below 
the  fruit,  and  diminish  the  supply  of  water  at  the  roots  and  in  the  atmo¬ 
sphere,  leaving  a  little  ventilation  constantly  to  prevent  moisture  condensing 
on  the  fruit. 
Succession  Flints. — Continue  fertilising  the  flowers  when  fully  ex¬ 
panded,  the  atmosphere  being  kept  drier  and  warmer  and  ventilation 
carefully  attended  to.  Stop  the  shoots  at  the  time  of  fertilisation  one  or 
two  joints  beyond  the  fruit.  Earth  the  plants  with  some  rather  strong 
and  rich  loam  after  the  fruits  begin  swelling,  ramming  it  firmly,  to  secure 
solid  fruit,  and  place  a  little  fresh  lime  round  the  collar  to  prevent  canker. 
Plants  swelling  their  fruits  may  be  syringed  in  hot  weather  about  3  p.m.. 
damping  the  floor  several  times  a  day,  and  in  the  evening  sprinkle  the 
floor  with  weak  liquid  manure.  Shade  only  to  prcfvent  flagging,  and 
ventilate  freely  in  favourable  weather.  Maintain  a  day  temperature  of 
80°  to  85°,  or  90°  with  sun  heat,  closing  between  80  and  85“,  and  if  an 
advance  of  10°  or  15°  be  made  after  closing  it  will  assist  the  fruit  in  swelling, 
and  lessen  the  necessity  for  fire  heat  at  night,  but  it  must  be  accompanied 
by  atmospheric  moisture.  If  thrips  appear  fumigate  moderately  on  two 
or  three  consecutive  evenings,  taking  care  to  have  the  foliage  dry. 
Train  the  growths  out  in  pits  and  frames,  still  maintaining  a  good 
bottom  heat  by  linings,  and  employ  thick  night  coverings  over  the 
lights.  Sow  seeds  for  raising  plants  for  placing  in  pits  and  frames  as 
they  are  cleared  of  bedding  plants.  Add  more  soil  to  the  hillocks  as  the 
roots  push  through  the  sides  of  the  mounds,  which  must  be  repeated  at 
intervals  until  the  allotted  space  is  filled.  Any  young  plants  that  are 
likely  to  become  root-bound  should  be  shifted  into  pots  a  couple  of  sizes 
larger  to  keep  them  in  steady  progressive  growth  until  the  beds  or 
hillocks  are  prepared  for  them. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Forced  Honse. — On  early  varieties 
the  ripening  fruit  and  foliage  must  be  kept  dry,  but  the  border  must  not 
be  allowed  to  become  very  drj'.  As  the  fruit  of  the  later  varieties  'will 
not  be  ripe  for  some  time,  keep  the  atmosphere  moist  by  frequent 
sprinkling  during  the  day,  syringing  in  the  morning,  and  again  when  closing 
the  house.  The  night  temperature  will  be  perfectly  safe  at  65°  to  70°. 
Fruit  Stoning. — During  the  stoning  process  the  trees  must  not  be 
hurried,  60°  to  65°  at  night  is  ample,  and  70®  to  75°  by  day,  avoiding 
sudden  fluctuations.  A  little  air  admitted  at  night  will  prevent  the 
deposition  of  moisture  on  the  foliage  to  any  serious  extent,  and  may  be 
increased  when  the  sun  acts  on  the  house,  yet  without  lowering  the  tem¬ 
perature,  which  should  always  advance  with  the  increased  power  of  the 
sun  and  a  corresponding  increase  of  ventilation.  Avoid  fumigation  as  far 
as  possible,  as  it  dries  the  atmosphere,  and  not  unfrequently  cripples  the 
foliage.  Early  closing  is  to  some  extent  an  advantage,  but  it  must  not  be 
continued  too  long.  It  is  also  advisable  to  allow  a  little  extra  latitude  to 
the  growth,  but  on  no  account  permit  fol  age  to  be  developed  that  must 
afterwards  be  removed  in  quantity.  Keep  the  inside  border  well  supplied 
with  water,  and  feed  judiciously  with  potassic  and  phosphatic  foods. 
Trees  Swelling  Their  Fruits. — These  swell  most  at  two  periods — viz., 
after  setting  until  the  commencement  of  the  stoning  process,  and  after 
stoning.  The  first  is  materially,  if  not  entirely,  influenced  by  the  previous 
storing  of  matter  in  the  trees  and  the  available  food  in  the  soil.  A  genial 
condition  of  the  atmosphere  accelerates  the  swelling  of  the  fruits  and  the 
means  employed  to  secure  good  root  action,  which  is  best  effected  by  a 
judicious  and  gradual  regulation  of  the  growths  by  the  processes  of  dis¬ 
budding  and  thinning  the  fruits.  Overcrowding  is  a  great  evil,  but  large 
reductions  of  foliage  at  one  time  as  well  as  fruit  are  not  good.  The  more 
vigorous  the  tree  the  greater  is  the  danger  of  the  fruit  being  cast  in 
stoning,  and  the  evil  is  afterwards  increased  by  severe  disbudding,  also 
by  a  close  and  moist  atmosphere.  In  the  last  swelling  after  stoning  lie 
the  shoots  down,  so  that  the  fruits  may  be  fully  exposed  to  the  light, 
but  moderate  extension  of  the  lateral  growth  will  materially  assist  the  ! 
fruit  in  swelling,  care  being  taken  that  the  principal  foliage  and  fruit 
be  not  interfered  with.  Supply  water  thoroughly  to  inside  borders  when 
necessary,  and  liquid  manure  to  weakly  trees. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Broccoli. — As  stated  on  page  335,  early  sowing  of  main  crop  and  late 
Broccoli  is  far  from  desirable  in  many  cases.  If  it  has  been  done  there 
ought  to  be  no  delay  in  pricking  out  the  plants  in  fine  soil  and  an  open 
position,  disposing  them  not  less  than  4  inches  apart  each  way.  All 
plants  should  be  moved  to  their  final  quarters  with  the  aid  of  a  trowel, 
saving  a  ball  of  soil  about  the  roots.  By  sowing  the  seed  late  in  April, 
thinly,  either  broadcast  or  in  drills,  and  quite  in  the  open,  abundance  of 
sturdy  plants  should  be  ready  for  putting  out  quite  as  soon  as  wanted. 
Chou  de  Burghley  or  Cabbage  Broccoli  also  gives  the  greatest  satisfaction 
when  raised  late.  At  this  date,  however,  there  must  be  n  j  failures,  and 
in  order  to  preserve  the  seed  from  small  birds,  either  moisten  them  in  a 
cloth  and  rol.  in  red  lead  prior  to  s  wing,  or  net  over  the  seed  beds. 
Directly  the  seedlings  show  through  the  soil  dust  with  soot  and  lime  to 
protect  from  slugs  and  flea. 
Retarding  Broccoli. — Hot  days  have  brought  on  Broccoli  faster  than 
desirable,  and  gluts  are  complained  of.  lu  a  few  days  the  bulk  will  be 
either  used  up  or  spoilt,  and  when  Broccoli  is  most  wanted,  owing  to  a 
dearth  of  other  vegetabl  s,  it  will  be  scarce.  Model,  Latest  of  All,  Late 
Queen,  and  other  extra  late  varieties  may  be  retarded  somewhat  by 
carefully  lifting,  saving  as  much  soil  as  possible,  and  laying  in  on  a  north 
border.  According  as  each  line  is  laid  in  give  the  roots  a  good  watering. 
Cover  with  mats  while  the  sun  reaches  the  border. 
Kidney  Beans. — -Early  breadths  of  these  frequently  produce  much 
appreciated  crops.  They  may  be  grown  on  a  flat  ridge  formed  at  the  foot 
of  a  south  wall  and  also  on  a  south  border.  Sion  House,  Ne  Plus  Ultra, 
and  other  extra  early  varieties  are  the  best  for  this  sowinj.  Sow  the 
seed  thinly  in  drills  18  inches  apart.  If  it  can  be  done  protect  tho 
plants  during  cold  nights  with  benders  and  mats. 
Broad  Beans. — Only  the  Broad  Windsor  type  should  be  sown  at  this 
late  date.  If  the  early  sown  seed  has  come  up  badly  fill  up  blanks, 
Broad  Beans  transplanting  readily  in  showery  weather.  Mould-up 
advancing  rows  lightly  to  steady  the  plants. 
Beet. — The  strong  growers,  including  Pragnell’s  Exhibition,  are  best 
sown  late,  as  it  is  a  preventive  of  coarseness  of  root.  The  same  remark 
applies  to  the  Turnip-rooted  type  where  this,  owing  to  the  shallowness 
of  the  ground,  has  to  be  grown  for  storing.  Beet  should  have  a  freely 
worked,  finely  divided  soil,  and  if  any  solid  manure  is  dug  in  it  must  be 
buried  deeply,  or  forking  of  roots  may  occur.  Sow  thinly  in  drills 
12  inches  to  15  inches  apart. 
Celery  Beds  and  Trenches. — Trenches  are  not  indispensable  for  Celery. 
Some  of  the  finest  produce  seen  at  the  summer  shows  is  grown  either  on 
the  level  ground  or  on  raised  beds  enclosed  by  stakes  and  boards. 
Prepare  the  ordinary  garden  soil  by  freely  mixing  with  it  well  decayed 
manure,  fresh  loam  if  it  can  be  spared,  and  charred  soil  and  ashes  from 
a  garden  slow  fire.  In  this  well  prepared  plants  may  be  put  out  15  inches 
apart  each  way,  doing  this  early  in  May.  The  blanching  is  cleanly 
effected  by  bandages  of  brown  paper.  Trenches  for  growing  either  early 
or  maincrop  Celery  should  be  got  ready  early  now,  as  this  admits  of  the 
work  of  planting  being  done  expeditiously,  and  affords  an  opportunity  for 
cropping  the  ridges  between  the  trenches  wdth  Kidney  Beans  and 
Lettuce.  Celery  forms  a  good  succession  to  Borecole,  Brussels  Sprouts, 
and  Brcccoli.  The  trenches  may  be  15  inches  to  18  Inches  wide, 
allowing  the  greater  width  when  the  Celery  is  to  be  planted  in  double 
lines. ,  Spaces  4  feet  wide  between  the  trenches  are  not  too  much, 
especially  if  they  are  to  be  cropped.  The  trenches  should  not  be  deep, 
particularly  in  the  case  of  cold  clayey  soils.  Move  the  top  spit  and  dis¬ 
tribute  this  evenly  between,  leaving  the  loose  soil  or  shovellings  in  the 
trench.  Fork  a  liberal  dressing  of  nearly  decayed  manure  into  the  trench. 
Seed  Failures. — Failures  to  secure  a  good  even  plant  are  not  always 
due  to  bad  seed.  More  often  than  not  the  cultivator  is  at  fault,  sowing 
the  seed  too  early,  or  not  protecting  sufficiently  from  enemies.  If  there 
have  been  failures  commence  remedial  measures  at  once.  It  is  somewhat 
late  to  sow  more  Onion  seed  in  the  places  where  that  first  sown  has 
failed,  but  when  the  seedlings  are  about  4  inches  high  they  transplant 
readily  in  showery  w’eather.  The  long-rooted  Beet  transplanted  rarely 
forms  good  roots,  but  if  more  seed  is  sown  where  the  blanks  occur  directly 
these  are  seen  appearances  will  be  saved,  and  serviceable  roots  probably 
result.  The  Turnip-rooted  tran.splants  fairly  well,  and  may  be  employed 
for  filling  up  gaps.  Carrots  move  badly,  and  more  seed  should  be  sown 
where  failures  occur.  It  is  not  yet  too  late  to  start  afresh  After  the 
middle  of  May  Nantes,  Horn,  Model,  or  Guerande  may  well  be  sown  in 
preference  to  coarser  varieties,  the  roots  of  these  keeping  admirably.  If 
the  seed  is  sown  in  drills  10  inches  apart,  and  the  plants  not  severely 
thinned,  a  surprising  weight  of  roots  of  superior  quality  can  be  had  from 
quite  a  small  breadth  of  ground.  If  more  seed  of  either  Salsafy,  Scorzo* 
mera,  or  Chicory  has  to  be  sown,  take  extra  pains  with  the  preparation 
of  the  ground,  making  this  very  fine,  and  not  forgetting  to  moisten  the 
drills  if  dry.  Even  Parsnips  may  yet  be  sown  with  a  good  prospect  of 
serviceable  roots  being  obtained.  If  whole  breadths  of  Turnips  are  eaten 
by  the  flea,  hoe  over  the  ground  and  sow  more  seed  at  once,  and  at  the 
same  time  apply  a  light  sprinkling  of  guano  or  a  dressing  of  soot.  Small 
sowings  of  Turnips  at  short  intervals  are  preferable  to  sowing  larger 
breadths  less  often.  It  is  not  yet  too  late  to  sow  Parsley,  strong  young 
plants  transplanting  well.  Lettuces  should  now  be  sown  at  intervals 
fortnight  or  so  where  the  plants  are  to  heart  in.  Sowings  may  yet  be 
made  of  early  Broccoli,  autumn  Cauliflower,  Borecole,  Brussels  Sprouts, 
and  Savoy  Cabbage.  Avoid  sowing  thickly. 
