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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
May  5,  1898. 
LiELlO-CATTLEYA  ThORNTONI. 
Bigeneric  hybrids  amongst  Orchids  are  now  numerous,  but  the 
interest  in  them  shows  no  signs  of  decrease.  On  the  contrary  ;  when 
one  such  as  L.-C.  Thorntoni  is  exhibited  it  is  certain  to  have  a  large 
concourse  of  admirers.  As  may  be  seen  from  the  illustration  (fig.  74) 
the  flower  bears  a  general  resemblance  in  form  to  L.-C.  Digbyana- 
Trianm,  Avhich  we  figured  on  September  9th  of  last  year  ;  but  at  the 
same  time  the  two  are  quite  distinct.  The  one  now  under  notice 
resulted  from  a  cross  between  L.  Digbyana  and  Cattleya  Gaskelliana. 
The  sepals  and  petals  are  a  soft  rosy  lilac,  and  the  latter  are  sharply 
serrated.  The  superb  lip  in  which  the  Lselia  parentage  is  so  apparent 
has  a  central  colour  of  yellow,  paling  to  white.  The  broad  front  lobe 
is  handsomely  fringed,  and  of  a  rose  pink  colour.  The  Orchid  Com¬ 
mittee  of  the  Koyal  Horticultural  Society  awarded  Messrs.  J.  Yeitch 
and  Sons,  Ltd.,  who  staged  the  plant,  a  first-class  certificate  on 
April  26th. 
Angulo  AS. 
These  are  an  interesting  section  of  Orchid,  very  distinct  botanically? 
their  nearest  affinity  being  Stanhopeas.  The  foliage  is  handsome 
on  well-grown  plants,  being  broad  and  deep  green,  springing  from  dark 
green  bulbs  of  different  size  according  to  the  species.  The  lip-presents 
rather  a  peculiar  structure,  being  very  loosely  hinged  with  the  column, 
and  rocking  to  and  fro  upon  the  flower  being  moved.  The  plant  likes 
a  fairly  substantial  compost,  consisting  of  equal  parts  of  peat  fibre, 
loam,  and  chopped  sphagnum  moss. 
fl’he  best  season  for  repotting  is  usually  immediately  after  the 
flowers  are  past,  but  in  the  case  of  plants  that  miss  flowering  it  may 
be  done  at  rather  an  earlier  stage  in  the  plant’s  growth — i.e.,  when 
considerable  progress  has  been  made  with  the  growth,  but  the  roots 
have  not  started.  It  is  easy  to  see  whether  or  not  the  plants  are 
going  to  flower  in  the  early  stages  of  growth,  as  the  flowering  shoots 
commence  to  swell  unduly  when  an  inch  or  two  in  length,  showing 
the  presence  of  the  flower  spikes.  The  practice  often  followed  is  to 
repot  after  the  manner  that  Calanthes  are  treated — viz.,  just  as  the 
young  growth  starts,  and  in  this  there  is  some  advantage,  though 
personally  I  prefer  the  later  season. 
I  have  several  reasons  for  this,  the  chief  being  that  the  young 
roots  will  have  new  sweet  material  to  run  in,  while  when  the  plants 
are  repotted  earlier  it  becomes  more  or  less  saturated  with  moisture. 
The  strain  of  flowering,  too,  is  more  severely  felt  by  the  plants 
when  the  roots  have  just  been  disturbed.  Those  who  practise  potting 
earlier  may  say  that  the  young  roots  are  disturbed  by  the  operation, 
but  if  carefully  done  this  will  be  but  slight,  and  is,  I  think,  more  than 
outweighed  by  the  advantages  described. 
As  to  manner  of  potting,  it  would  be  well  if  cultivators  would 
remember  that  Anguloas  have  very  persistent  roots  that  live  more  than 
one  season,  and  for  this  reason  they  will  not  stand  being  pulled  about 
and  shaken  completely  out,  as  Calanthes  and  Thunias  are  treated.  By 
all  means  let  everything  of  a  sour  or  close  character — or  anything  that 
is  likely  to  soon  become  so — be  taken  out;  but  be  careful  in  doing  this 
that  the  living  roots  are  not  disturbed  more  than  is  absolutely  unpre- 
ventible,  for  much  injury  is  done  thereby.  It  leads  to  shrivelled 
pseudo-bulbs  and  a  wea**  ened  condition  of  the  plants  generally,  while 
it  is  one  of  the  most  important  points  in  their  culture  that  the  pseudo- 
bulbs  be  strong  and  stout.  _ 
The  plants  need  not  be  elevated  much  above  the  rims  of  the 
pots,  in  fact  for  healthy  well  established  specimens  they  are  better 
kept  a  little  below,  but  badly  rooted  weak  i)lants  may  be  kept  up  a 
trifle  with  advantage.  Drain  the  ]iots  thoroughly,  and  if  these  are 
of  medium  size  in  comparison  with  that  of  the  plants  they  will  be  all 
the  better,  as  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  disturb  the  plants  again  for 
a  couple  of  seasons.  After  repotting  keep  the  plants  a  little  on  the 
dry  side  until  the  roots  are  again  active,  and  maintain  a  moist  atmo¬ 
sphere  by  frequent  damping  about  the  stages,  pots,  and  floors. 
M'Len  rooting  freely  again  keeji  them  moist  until  the  young 
pseudo-bulbs  are  finished,  when,  if  the  weather  is  w^arm,  and  no  frosts 
occur  at  nignt,  they  may  be  stood  outside  in  a  partially  shaded' 
position  for  a  time.  But  be  very  careful  that  they  are  screened 
from  direct  sunlight,  or  the  foliage  will  be  burnt,  and  will  fall 
prematurely.  It  nny  be  noted  that  the  individual  plants  differ 
considerably  in  the  time  they  carry  their  foliage.  Some  are  quite 
deciduous,  while  others  will  have  the  older  leaves  on  well  into  the  new 
year.  As  a  rule  the  evergreen  plants  do  not  flower  so  freely  as  those 
that  lose  their  foliage  during  the  winter. 
Scab  is  often  troublesome,  but  this  and  red  spider  are  easily  kej  t 
under  if  taken  in  time.  The  Anguloas  are  not  a  large  genus,  and 
though  many  more  occur  in  some  lists,  there  are  only  about  three- 
distinct  species.  But  these  vary  a  good  deal  both  in  size  and  colour. 
In  A.  Clowesi  the  blossoms  are  in  the  type  about  a  couple  of  inches 
across.  Tulip  shaped,  or  nearly  round,  and  of  a  clear  soft  yellow  ii> 
colour.  There  is  a  large  flowering  variety,  A.  C.  macrantha,  also 
pure  -white  and  beautiful  form  named  eburnea,  which  is  often  described; 
as  a  species.  It  is  very  rare.  _ 
A.  Euckeri  is  another  very  variable  kind,  with  large  reddish  brown 
flowers,  the  inner  side  of  the  segments  yellow,  spotted  with  red.  It  is 
a  native  of  Columbia,  and  was  introduced  early  in  the  forties,  along 
with  the  foregoing.  One  of  the  finest  Anguloas  in  existence  i- 
A.  R.  sanguinea,  a  deep  blood-red  form  of  the  type,  while  of  this,  too, 
there  is  an  albino.  A.  uniflora  is  the  oldest  species  known,  having 
been  discovered  over  a  hundred  years  ago  in  Peru  by  the  founders  of 
the  genus,  Ruiz  and  Pavon.  It  has  pretty  white  flowers,  more  or  less 
tinged  with  rosy  pink,  this  colour  being  the  most  freely  disposed  on 
the  petals  of  the  variety  Turneri. — II.  E.  R. 
ZONAL  PELARGONIUMS  FOR  WINTER. 
In  support  of  the  winter  culture  of  this  plant  I  have  this  encouraging 
statement  to  make  at  the  outset,  I  do  not  know  a  single  flower  that  will 
continue  blooming  for  three  consecutive  months  in  the  dark,  dreary  days 
of  winter,  and  yield  a  greater  quantity  and  variety  of  beautiful  flowers  at 
a  less  cost. 
The  best  and  cheapest  house  is  the  ordinary  span-roofed  propagating 
house  running  east  and  west,  with  abundance  of  ventilation  at  the  top, 
a  centre  path  with  stages  2  feet  6  inches  from  the  floor  and  inche.s 
below  the  wall  plate,  so  that  the  plants  can  be  as  near  the  glass  as 
possible.  Heating  is  of  vital  importance,  as  damp,  moist,  or  cold  air  will 
at  once  cause  disaster.  In  addition  to  the  ordinary  4-inch  pipes  have  a 
2-inch  pipe  about  12  inches  above  the  wall  plate.  If  the  stage  is  made- 
7  inches  deep  the  plants  can  be  plunged  in  ashes,  while  the  structure  will 
answer  admirably  for  growing  a  crop  of  Tomatoes  or  Cucumbers  in 
summer  time. 
Propagation. 
The  best  cuttings  are  those  taken  from  the  half-ripened  side  shoots 
from  3  inches  to  4  inches  long  ;  they  are  all  the  better  if  they  have  not 
been  allowed  to  bloom.  It  is  a  mistake  to  attempt  to  build  up  a  strong 
healthy  plant  from  a  weak,  sickly,  or  sappy  cutting.  It  is  a  matter  of 
choice  whether  the  cuttings  are  rooted  outside  the  first  week  in  August 
or  inside  during  the  first  week  in  March  ;  the  advantage  gained,  if 
autumn  rooted,  being  a  larger  plant.  I,  however,  prefer  spring  propa¬ 
gation,  as  the  stock  never  escapes  supervision  until  the  plant  is 
thoroughly  developed  and  ready  for  outside  treatment. 
The  cuttings  should  be  inserted  in  earthenware  pans,  providing  good 
drainage,  and  shading  for  a  day  or  two.  Keep  the  leaves  moist,  but  do 
not  wet  the  soil.  When  roots  have  been  emitted  pot  the  young  plants 
in  large  60’s  and  grow  in  a  tem'^erature  of  55°  to  60°,  using  the  syringe 
freely,  and  gradually  giving  more  air  up  to  the  final  potting  stage.  As 
soon  as  the  plants  begin  to  grow  freely  pinch  into  shape  and  remove  all 
flower  buds  as  soon  as  they  appear. 
Potting  and  Feeding. 
Great  care  must  be  taken  not  to  damage  the  new  feeding  roots  when 
potting,  which  must  be  done  firmly.  The  last  week  in  May  place  the 
plants  in  5-inch  pots,  using  charcoal  for  crocks.  The  best  manure  is 
made  from  cow  manure  and  leaf  mould  in  equal  parts,  using  a  sprinkling 
of  soot  the  last  time  the  compost  is  turned.  When  ready  for  use  it  ought 
to  be  in  such  a  condition  as  will  rub  through  a  five-eighth-inch  riddle. 
Make  up  a  compost  with  one  part  rich  fibrous  loam,  using  as  much  coarse 
river  sand  as  will  keep  it  ojien,  and  the  other  part  of  the  above-named 
manure.  Incorporate  thoroughly’,  and  let  it  stand  for  a  few  days  before 
using.  After  the  final  potting  place  the  plants  in  a  close  frame  for  a 
fortnight  before  turning  out  into  the  open. 
Liquid  manures  should  only  be  applied  when  the  plants  are  thoroughly 
root-bound,  and  the  flower  buds  forming.  I  have  had  very  successful 
results  from  the  following  mixture  : — Steep  1  bushel  of  rock  culms  in 
12  gallons  of  cow  urine,  mix,  and  stand  for  a  week  ;  add  6  gallons  of  soot 
water  and  1  lb.  of  gypsum,  stir  well  together,  and  use  1  pint  to  a  gallon  of 
soft  water.  The  gypsum  is  used  as  a  preservative,  and  to  counteract  the 
caustic  effects  of  the  urine  ;  the  soot  as  a  general  fertiliser  ;  and  the  rock 
