May  6,  1898. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
397 
Endeavour  should  be  made  to  keep  the  seedlings  growing  steadily, 
being  careful  not  to  overwater,  or  they  will  damp  off.  As  soon  as  these 
pots  are  well  filled  with  roots  the  young  plants  may  be  transferred  to 
4  and  5-inch  pots,  according  to  the  strength  of  the  seedlings.  The  compost 
should  consist  of  good  fibrous  loam,  leaf  mould,  sand,  with  a  little  manure 
added.  Pot  firmly,  raising  the  corm  above  the  soil,  as  if  sunk  too  deeply 
it  is  apt  to  decay.  Keep  the  plants  shaded  from  the  sun  both  at  this 
stage  and  in  the  earlier  ones.  A  low  heated  house  is  best  to  place  these 
plants  in,  where  a  temperature  of  55°  to  60°  could  be  kept  up  should  the 
weather  prove  cold.  Use  the  .syringe  freely,  both  in  the  morning  and 
afternoon,  to  induce  growth  and  to  keep  the  plants  free  from  insect  pests. 
As  the  pots  become  filled  with  roots  gradually  admit  more  air  until  the 
plants  are  sufficiently  hard  to  be  taken  to  a  cold  frame. 
About  the  middle  of  September  cease  syringing  and  shading  to  induce 
the  plants  to  have  a  hard  sturdy  growth.  An  occasional  watering  with 
weak  liquid  manure,  or  an  application  of  some  well  proved  fertiliser  is  very 
beneficial  to  them.  Early  in  October  house  the  plants  where  they  are  to 
bloom,  previously  cleaning  the  pots  so  that  all  may  have  a  neat  appearance. 
The  temperature  ought  now  to  range  about  55°.  Should  green  fly  make 
its  appearance  an  application  of  “  XL- All  ”  will  successfully  eradicate 
it  When  flowering  commences  it  is  surprising  what  a  wealth  of  bloom, 
and  how  long  these  Cyclamen  will  continue  to  produce  it.— Semper. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Outdoor  Vines. — When  the  buds  have  pushed  far  enough  to  show  the 
bunches  the  process  of  disbudding  may  be  commenced.  The  growths 
nearest  to  the  main  branch  ought  to  be  retained  if  fruitful.  One  shoot 
bearing  one  bunch  of  fruit  is  sufficient  for  each  spur.  The  removal  or 
reduction  of  other  shoots  which  are  superfluous  or  ill-placed  should  also 
be  carried  out,  the  ultimate  object  being  to  retain  only  growths  for  which 
there  is  room  for  ample  leaf  development. 
The  spur  growths  require  stopping  one  or  two  leaves  beyond  the 
bunch,  when  the  shoots  have  advanced  as  far.  If  no  bunch  is  present, 
and  the  shoot  is  retained,  allow  about  seven  leaves  to  form,  stopping  at 
that  point  and  at  every  subsequent  leaf  afterwards.  Lateral  growths 
developing  below  the  bunch  rub  out  entirely  ;  also  train-in  any  strong 
shoots  for  filling  vacancies,  not  stopping  them  before  they  have  made 
growth  4  feet  in  length.  Tying-down  must  be  done  gradually.  It  is 
best,  unless  crowded,  to  allow  them  to  advance  well  before  tying  finally. 
Strawberries. — Mulching. — The  application  of  a  layer  of  manure  with 
a  view  to  affording  nourishment  for  the  roots,  conserving  moisture,  and 
forming  a  clean  bed  for  the  fruit  when  ripe,  ought  now  to  be  carried  out. 
Partly  fresh  farmyard  manure  is  the  best  material.  Should  there  not  be 
a  good  proportion  of  litter  among  it,  a  layer  of  clean  dry  straw  may  be 
used  later  for  the  fruit  to  rest  upon. 
Feeding.— A  dressing  of  nitrate  of  soda  (1  oz.  to  the  square  yard)  is 
a  good  stimulant  for  Strawberries  given  when  the  flower  trusses  show  or 
just  as  the  fruit  sets.  Water,  liquid  manure,  or  house  sewage  will  also 
prove  valuable  aids  in  assisting  the  swelling  of  good  crops  of  fruit  and 
sirengthening  the  growth,  whereby  bold  buds  will  be  built  up  for  the 
succeeding  year. 
Toung  Plants. — Recently  planted  Strawberries  or  small  plants  placed 
out  late  in  autumn  ought  not  to  be  allowed  to  fruit  this  season.  All 
should,  however,  throw  up  flower  trusses  ;  but  when  it  is  seen  that  they 
have  done  this  pinch  them  off,  thus  encouraging  the  plants  to  make 
vigorous  growth,  and  bold  crowns  produced.  If  planted  in  good  soil  on 
firm  ground,  hoed  frequently,  the  runners  kept  closely  cut  off,  and  the 
soil  lightly  mulched  in  hot  weather,  there  will  be  little  difficulty  in  pro¬ 
ducing  good  plants. 
Gooseberries. — Bushes  showing  any  indications  of  being  attacked  with 
the  larvae  of  the  Gooseberry  moth  should  have  the  foliage  dusted  with  soot 
and  lime.  Hellebore  powder  dredged  over  the  bushes  will  kill  all  the 
caterpillars  it  touches,  but  as  it  is  of  a  poisonous  nature  the  green  fruit 
when  gathered  ought  to  be  well  washed  if  this  remedy  is  employed.  The 
larvas  are  very  destructive  to  the  leaves,  completely  eating  up  the  green 
tissue.  Soot  is  not  only  a  good  insecticide,  but  acts  well  as  a  manure, 
making  the  soil  quite  black  with  it.  When  bushes  have  set  a  good  crop 
of  fruit,  and  are  free  from  caterpillars,  a  manurial  mulch  may  be  spread 
over  the  roots,  which  will  largely  assist  the  development  of  the  crop  by 
conserving  the  moisture  in  the  soil.  Cordon  trees  growing  at  the  foot  of 
walls  will  be  especially  benefited  by  a  liberal  mulch  over  the  roots, 
further  assisting  them  if  the  soil  is  dry  by  copious  applications  of  water 
and  liquid  manure. 
Red  and  White  Currants. — Whether  growing  as  cordons  against 
walls  or  bushes  in  the  open,  a  mulching  of  decomposed  manure  will  be 
serviceable  applied  when  the  fruit  is  set. 
Peaches  and  Cherries. —These  trees  are  subject  to  early  attacks  from 
aphides,  which  infest  the  points  of  young  shoots.  Trees  which  may  be 
growing  in  exhausted  soil,  or  suffering  from  dryness  at  the  roots,  are 
almost  certain  to  be  attacked.  In  addition  to  well  syringing  the  trees, 
and  destroying  the  insects  with  some  effective  insecticide,  the  border 
must  be  thoroughly  moistened  to  the  full  depth  of  the  roots.  Quassia 
chip  solution,  sofisoap  mixture,  soluble  jietroleum,  Gishurst  compound 
are  all  inimical  to  insect  life,  but  every  cultivator  has  his  favourite 
remedies.  Promptness  in  applying  them  when  the  insects  are  first  seen 
is  of  great  importance,  and  will  prevent  much  labour  in  destroying  them 
Inter  on.  If  allowed  to  increase  on  the  young  shoots  of  Cherry  trees  to 
the  extent  they  sometimes  do,  nothing  short  of  dipping  each  individual 
shoot  in  a  fairly  strong  solution,  gently  rubbing  to  displace  the  insects, 
will  have  much  effect.  For  this  purpose  tobacco  juice  and  softsoap  is  a 
safe  remedy.  Dissolve  2  ozs.  of  softsoap  in  a  gallon  of  hot  water, 
mixing  in  a  pint  of  tobacco  juice.  Use  when  sufficiently  cool.  Give  a 
thorough  general  syringing  to  the  trees  the  following  day,  and  frequently 
in  warm  weather, 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cherry  House. — With  the  fruit  ripening  syringing  must  cease,  the 
Cherries  being  kept  dry,  but  atmospheric  moisture  should  be  furnished 
by  keeping  the  surface  of  the  borders  moist.  Admit  air  constantly,  as 
if  condensation  take  place  the  fruit  is  seriously  affected,  cracking,  and 
becoming  impaired  in  qualitv.  If  necessary  a  thorough  supply  of  water 
should  be  given  to  the  border.  Tie  in  the  shoots  as  they  advance,  and 
stop  those  not  required  for  training  at  about  the  fifth  leaf  If  black 
aphides  are  troublesome,  dip  the  infested  shoots  or  leaves  in  tobacco 
water  or  some  approved  insecticide,  rubbing  them  gently  with  the  fingers 
whilst  wet.  Ventilate  freely  on  all  favourable  occasions,  having  recourse 
to  the  heating  apparatus  when  the  external  conditions  are  unfavourable 
to  insure  a  circulation  of  warm  rather  dry  air.  Trees  in  pots  require 
abundant  supplies  of  water  and  nourishment.  Place  some  netting  over 
the  ventilators  to  prevent  birds  attacking  the  Cherries. 
Vines. — Earlg  Houses. — Where  the  Vines  are  infested  with  red  spider 
or  thrips  let  immediate  remedial  measures  be  taken,  or  not  only  will  this 
year’s  crop  be  damaged,  but  next  year’s  will  be  prejudiced.  The 
judicious  use  of  nicotine  fumes  or  vapour  is  the  best  remedy  for  thrips, 
and  to  some  extent  for  red  sjDider,  application  being  made  on  two  or  three 
consecutive  evenings,  repeating  at  intervals  of  a  few  days  so  as  to  destroy 
those  escaping  the  first  fumigation  through  being  in  the  egg  state.  To 
annihilate  red  spider  the  use  of  sulphur  on  the  hot  water  pipes  has  good 
results,  they  being  heated  to  over  170°,  and  between  that  and  boiling 
point,  then  damping  the  surface  with  a  wet  cloth,  and  at  once  sprinkling 
on  the  sulphur  very  lightly.  The  pipes  should  be  kept  hot  for  about  an 
hour,  the  ventilators  closed,  and  care  taken  not  to  give  an  overdose,  and 
then  the  heat  may  be  allowed  to  fall  to  the  ordinary  degree.  Early 
Grapes  that  are  ripe  will  only  require  enough  fire  heat  to  maintain  a 
circulation  of  air,  allowing  the  temperature  to  fall  to  60°  at  nieht. 
Second  Early  Houses. — The  fruit  of  Vines  started  at  the  new  3’ear  is 
commencing  to  colour.  No  great  pains  should  as  yet  be  taken  to  produce 
a  dry  condition  of  the  atmosphere,  as  the  Grapes  swell  considerably  in 
ripening.  Maintain  a  moist  atmosphere  in  the  early  stages,  sprinkling 
the  house  in  the  early  part  of  the  day  and  at  closing  time.  Provide  a 
little  ventilation  constantly',  to  induce  a  change  of  air  and  prevent  the 
deposition  of  moisture  on  the  berries.  Maintain  the  temperature  at  70° 
to  75°  by  day  from  artificial  means,  and  80°  to  85°  through  the  day  from 
sun  heat,  falling  to  a  night  temperature  of  60°  to  65°,  but  65°  to  70°  is 
necessary  for  Muscats.  As  the  fruit  advances  in  colouring  the  moisture 
should  be  reduced  gradually,  and  the  ventilation  increased,  but  there 
must  not  be  any  diminution  of  the  temperature  until  the  Grapes  are 
thoroughly  ripe.  The  inside  border  must  have  due  supplies  of  water  or 
liquid  manure,  and  a  mulching  of  short  material. 
Succession  Houses. — The  remarks  as  to  thinning,  disbudding,  stopping, 
and  tying  given  in  firmer  calendars  still  apply — especially  let  all  super¬ 
fluous  bunches  be  removed  as  soon  as  the  number  to  be  left  on  a  Vine  is 
decided.  Examine  the  borders  of  all  succession  houses  at  least  once  a 
week,  and  when  dry  supply  water  freely.  Inside  borders  will  take 
almost  any  quantity  of  water  after  the  Vines  are  in  full  foliage,  and  with 
a  heavy  crop  of  Grapes  supply  liquid  manure  at  every  alternate  watering. 
Outside  b  irders,  except  in  special  cases,  will  not  as  yet  require  water. 
Late  Houses. — The  Vines  making  rapid  progress  must  be  tied,  and 
stopped  as  soon  as  they  have  made  sufficient  growth  to  cover  the  trellis 
with  foliage.  Every  care  should  be  taken  to  secure  good  colour  and  firm 
texture  in  the  leaves  by  free  yet  judicious  ventilation.  Take  advantage 
of  sun  heat  to  increase  the  ventilation  early  in  the  day,  but  close  early, 
excessive  fire  heat  being  injurious  and  costly. 
Unheated  Houses. — The  Vines  are  making  rapid  progress,  and  in  many 
instances  the  growths  will  require  disbudding,  stopping,  tying,  and  other¬ 
wise  regulating.  One  shoot  is  sufficient  to  each  spur,  unless  they  are 
wide  apart,  when  two  may  be  left.  Reserve  those  that  show  the  best 
bunches,  rubbing  the  others  off.  Stop  two  joints  beyond  the  bunches,  but 
rather  than  crowd  the  foliage  stop  to  one  joint.  Tie  down  the  shoots 
carefully  and  gradually.  Old  Vines  sometimes  do  not  bear  freely  on 
spurs,  being  weak.  It  is  best  to  lay  in  shoots  from  the  base  and  along 
the  rods  at  intervals  of  2  or  3  feet  in  such  cases  to  increase  the  root 
action.  Apply  a  light  dressing  of  artificial  manure  to  the  border,  and 
point  it  lightly  in.  Inside  borders  may  be  given  tepid  water  or  liquid 
manure,  when  dry  a  thorough  soaking,  and  a  mulching  of  short  rather 
fresh  stable  manure  will,  by  keeping  the  surface  moist,  encourage  active 
roots. 
Newly  Planted  Vines. — With  advancing  grow'th — an  evidence  that  the 
roots  are  active— close  attention  will  need  to  be  given  to  the  roots  to  see 
that  they  do  not  suffer  from  over-dryness.  Allow  all  the  wood  to  remain 
that  can  be  exposed  to  light,  but  supernumeraries  intended  for  fruiting 
next  year  should  be  confined  to  one  rod  or  cane,  and  the  laterals  pinched 
at  the  first  joint,  and  to  that  of  subsequent  growths,  stopping  the  canes  at 
6  to  8  feet. 
