May  26  liUtS. 
JOUR^^AL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
451 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Haedy  Feuits  and  Theie  Cultuee. 
In  my  opinion  nothing  can  be  more  interesting  or  of  so  much 
importance  to  young  gardeners  as  the  study  of  hardy  fruits  and  their 
culture.  W  here  every  attention  is  given  to  fruit  culture  under  glass  we 
find,  as  a  rule,  first-class  produce  ;  but  in  the  hardy  fruit  garden  we  get 
almost  the  reverse,  simply  because  the  trees  do  not  get  one-half  the 
attention  they  so  well  deserve.  This  is  proved  by  the  fact  that  where  a 
gardener  does  take  an  interest  in  hardy  fruits,  we  see  plainly  that  by 
perseverance  he  can  produce  a  good  sample  of  fruit,  which  is  admired  by 
all  who  have  the  pleasure  of  visiting  his  fruit  garden.  I  am  well  aware 
that  in  many  localities  the  soil  is  not  suitable  for  the  cultivation  of  fruit 
in  its  present  condition,  but  much  may  be  done  by  improving  the  soil  and 
making  it  suitable  for  fruit  trees  in  future. 
Where  it  is  desirable  to  improve  the  soil,  should  it  be  too  wet,  stiff 
and  clayey,  the  first  essential  part  of  the  work  will  be  to  have  it  drained 
in  a  thoroughly  practical  manner.  For  the  improvement  of  the  soil, 
a  time  must  be  chosen  when  it  is  at  its  driest,  autumn,  I  think,  being 
preferable,  as  it  may  then  be  left  in  a  rough  state  through  the  winter.  It 
should  be  trenched  about  2  feet  deep,  and  a  quantity  of  lime,  soot,  and 
wood  ashes  be  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the  surface  soil.  Where  the 
staple  is  of  a  poor  and  sandy  nature,  mix  with  it  soil  of  a  tenacious 
character,  when  the  whole  may  soon  be  made  to  suit  fruit  trees.  If  the 
ground  by  physical  means  be  brought  under  the  influence  of  the  weather 
with  a  free  passage  for  water  it  will  quickly  become  more  fertile,  and  in 
a  proper  state  for  sustaining  and  encouraging  tree  growth,  and  the 
improvement  of  the  fruit  both  in  size  and  quality. 
As  regards  the  proper  time  for  lifting  trees  various  opinions  are  held, 
but  in  my  opinion  this  work  should  be  done  in  the  early  autumn,  when 
the  weather  is  favourable.  Commence  as  soon  as  the  leaves  begin  to  fall, 
and  complete  all  planting  before  the  bad  weather  comes.  ]\Iy  reason  for 
recommending  autumn  planting  is  because  I  believe  the  trees  have  a  much 
better  chance  of  getting  their  roots  well  established  before  the  hot  sun 
comes  upon  them,  and  are  therefore  in  a  better  condition  for  the  roots  to 
supply  the  necessary  elements  for  the  building  up  and  ripening  of  the 
season  s  growth.  Plant  firmly,  and  pay  strict  atten  ion  to  the  spreading 
out  of  the  young  roots,  being  most  careful  to  keep  them  as  near  as  possible 
to  the  surface.  Wake  the  trees  secure  with' stakes.  Plant  only  healthy 
trees,  and  grow  varieties  which  have  been  found  suitable  for  the  locality 
and  the  position  they  are  to  occupy.  With  regard  to  their  culture,  I  hope 
to  have  the  pleasure  of  writing  a  few  notes  later  if  space  is  available. 
— J.  F.  D.,  Yorks. 
Vegetable  Roots  foe  Foecing. 
Many  readers  of  the  Journal  of  Horticulture  give  scant  attention  to  the 
question  of  vegetable  cultivation.  This  is  unfortunate,  as  the  subject  is  a 
very  wide  and  interesting  one.  Respecting  the  details  of  vegetable  garden¬ 
ing,  many  hazy  notions  exist  among  young  craftsmen,  and  I  propose  in 
this  short  paper  to  deal  with  one  point  only,  “vegetable  roots  for  forcing.” 
It  is  commonly  imagined  that  forcing  merely  means  lifting  roots  in 
the  autumn,  and  placing  them  in  warm  positions.  There  is,  however,  no 
art  in  the  actual  forcing  of  vegetable.**,  as  heat  and  moisture  will 
accomplish  all  that  is  required.  The  whole  secret  of  success  is  to  have 
a  supply  of  roots  in  a  proper  condition  when  required.  The  quality 
and  quantity  of  the  supply  during  the  winter  will  depend  largelj’  upon  the 
way  in  which  the  culture  has  been  performed.  No  one  need  hope  for  a 
good  crop  from  badly  cultivated  roots  ;  on  the  other  hand  well-grown 
roots  will  always  force  readily,  and  the  produce  will  be  a  credit  to  the 
grower,  and  give  satisfaction  to  the  consumer.  Good  Seakale,  Asparagus, 
and  Rhubarb  in  the  winter  months  are  valued  more  than  any  of  the 
other  period.  A  gardener  who  has  a  supply  of  roots  from  which  to 
produce  them  need  not  worry  much  about  the  severe  weather  destroying 
his  outside  vegetables.  When  a  suflncient  supply  of  forced  ones  of  high- 
class  quality  can  be  obtained,  greens  from  the  open  will  not  be  in  nearly  the 
demand  they  otherwise  would  be.  This  remark  does  not  imply  that  one 
should  grow  nothing  but  forced  vegetables,  but  that  we  should  have  at 
disposal  a  sufficient  supply  to  bridge  over  any  deficiency  in  the  greens. 
Roots  that  have  been  forced  are  not  of  much  use  for  pianting  again,  so  it 
is  best  to  have  a  constant  succession  each  year. 
Sufficient  Asparagus  seeds  should  be  sown  annually  to  obtain  the 
number  of  plants  required.  They  must  be  left  in  the  seed  bed  during  the 
first  season,  and  then  be  planted  out  about  a  couple  of  feet  apart.  By  the 
end  of  the  third  season  they  will  be  in  a  good  condition  for  forcing. 
Seakale,  also,  can  be  easily  propagated  from  seed,  but  I  think  the  quickest 
and  most  satisfactory  way  is  by  division  of  the  root.  If  the  strong  roots 
are  cut  in  lengths,  and  planted  in  a  warm  house,  in  a  short  time  they  will 
start  into  growth,  and  when  the  weather  is  favourable  they  can  be  planted 
out  in  the  open  by  the  end  of  March.  Place  in  rows  about  18  inches 
apart  on  rich  soil,  that  has  been  well  trinched  and  manured  beforehand, 
and  they  will  make  splendid  crowns  by  the  following  autumn. 
It  is,  I  believe,  a  habit  in  many  gardens  to  grow  Rhubarb  outside  till 
it  begins  to  get  poor,  and  then  to  dig  it  up  for  forcing.  This  is  a  great 
mistake,  and,  of  course,  never  pays  for  the  time  and  trouble.  Strong 
healthy  roots,  having  several  prominent  crowns  should  be  divided  about 
the  beginning  of  March,  and  planted  in  good  soil,  then  splendid  forcing 
roots  will  be  formed  by  the  following  autumn.  Rich  soil,  and  exposure  to 
as  much  sun  as  possible,  are  the  chief  points  to  be  remembered  in  growing 
roots  for  forcing.  They  should  never  be  placed,  as  is  often  done,  in  odd 
corners,  but  given  as  good  a  position  and  as  much  attention  as  is  accorded 
to  other  vegetables.  If  they  are  overcrowded,  and  weak  growths  are  made 
in  the  summer,  good  produce  cannot  be  expected  in  the  winter. — S.  S. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers.— Plants  in  houses  that  have  been  in  bearing  since  the 
beginning  of  the  year  may  be  cleared  out.  and  the  house  cleansed 
preparatory  to  replanting  with  young  plants  or  Melons  for  a  late  crop. 
This  answers  where  there  are  several  houses,  and  the  plants  are  grown 
to  provide  fruit  for  marketing  as  regards  Cucumbers  ;  but  where  the  old 
plants  are  fairly  healthy,  and  fruit  not  supplied  from  other  sources,  such 
as  pits  or  frames,  they  may  be  kept  fruiting  a  little  longer  by  removing 
some  of  the  soil,  and  replacing  with  lumpy  loam,  afterwards  surfacing 
with  sweetened  horse  droppings.  Thin-out  the  old  growths,  and 
encourage  young  in  their  place  ;  shade  from  powerful  sun,  syringe  in 
the  morning  and  afternoon,  and  damp  well  before  nighttall.  Admit  a 
little  air  at  75°,  increasing  with  the  advancing  sun,  keeping  through  the 
day  at  85°  to  90°,  and  closing  early,  so  as  to  retain  the  latter  degree,  or 
advance  to  95°  or  100°.  Fire  heat  need  only  be  employed  to  maintain  a 
night  temperature  of  60°  to  65°,  and  to  insure  70°  to  75°  by  day. 
Pits  and  Frames. — Plants  in  these  will  require  attending  to  for 
ventilation  from  7.30  to  8  A.M.,  and  in  the  hottest  part  of  the  day  a  slight 
shade  from  fierce  sun  will  be  beneficial.  Keep  the  plants  watered  as 
required,  and  sprinkle  on  fine  afternoons.  Avoid  overcrowding  the 
foliage,  thinning  well,  and  keeping  up  a  succession  of  bearing  wood. 
Cherry  House. — When  the  whole  of  the  crop  is  ripe,  the  chief  con¬ 
sideration  will  be  to  keep  the  fruit  fresh  and  prolong  the  season  of  supply 
as  long  as  possible.  Shading  will  do  so,  but  it  is  only  desirable  where 
the  fruit  is  exposed  directly  to  the  sun,  owing  to  limited  foliage.  Free 
ventilation  must  be  attended  to,  and  in  hot  weather  a  sprinkling  of  the 
surface  of  the  border  in  the  hottest  part  of  the  day  will  assist  in  keeping 
the  fruit  plump.  The  supply  of  water  must  not  be  neglected,  for  dryness 
is  inimical  to  the  development  of  the  buds  for  the  ensuing  crop  of  fruit 
and  health  of  the  trees. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Early  Forced  Houses. — The  early  varieties, 
Alexander,  Waterloo,  Early  Beatrice,  and  Early  Louise  Peaches,  with 
Cardinal  and  Advance  Nectarihes,  are  nearly  cleared  of  their  fruit.  The 
shoots  on  which  the  fruit  has  been  borne,  if  not  required  for  the  extension 
of  the  tree,  must  be  cut  away  to  the  successional  growths  at  the  base,  to 
admit  light  and  air  freely  to  the  foliage.  Syringe  forcibly  to  cleanse  the 
trees  of  red  spider,  and  if  this  pest  and  scale  continue  troublesome, 
promptly  use  an  insecticide.  To  prevent  over-maturity  of  the  buds, 
ventilate  to  the  fullest  extent  on  all  favourable  occasions.  Keep  gross 
laterals  stopped,  but  avoid  checking  the  growth  by  removing  largo 
quantities  of  foliage  at  one  time.  Trees  of  the  second  early  and  mid- 
season  varieties  will  now  be  ripening  their  fruit,  and  must  not  be  syringed, 
though  if  the  trees  become  infested  with  red  spider  a  thorough  syringing 
may  be  given  when  there  is  a  prospect  of  a  fine  day.  The  trees  must 
have  water  at  the  roots  in  sufficient  quantity'  to  keep  the  foliage  in  a 
healthy  state. 
Houses  Started  in  January. — The  fruits  in  the  structures  brought 
forward  gently,  and  the  varieties  second  early  or  midseason  are  now  fast 
advanced  towards  ripening.  The  leaves  will  have  been  turned  aside  and 
the  fruit  raised,  so  that  the  apex  receives  most  light.  If  the  weather 
prove  cold  and  wet,  gentle  fire  heat  will  be  necessary  to  secure  a  circula¬ 
tion  of  air  constantly,  as  moisture  deposited  on  the  apex  induces  “  spot,” 
maintaining  the  temperature  at  60°  to  65°  by  night,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day. 
Cease  syringing  as  soon  as  the  fruit  begins  to  ripen,  and  take  care  to 
have  the  trees  free  from  red  spider  before  this  stage,  or  the  pest  will 
increase  so  rapidly  as  to  prejudice  future  crops.  Give  a  good  watering 
to  the  border  if  necessary,  mulching  with  some  light  material. 
Succession  Houses. — During  stoning  the  trees  must  not  be  hurried,  but 
be  given  time  to  complete  the  process.  Allow  a  free  extension  of  the 
laterals  as  an  encouragement  of  root  action,  but  do  not  crowd  the  principal 
foliage,  and  keep  insects  in  check  by  syringing  twice  a  day.  When  the 
fruits  have  stoned  remove  all  surplus  ones,  and  turn  the  others  to  the 
light,  to  insure  their  colouring  well  from  the  apex.  Give  thorough 
supplies  of  water  through  a  surface  mulching  of  manure,  and  supply 
top-dressing  or  liquid  manure  to  any  weakly  trees.  Vigorous  trees, 
however,  must  not  be  toO  liberally  fed,  as  it  will  only  induce  grossness, 
which  must  be  studiously  avoided.  Ventilate  early,  and  close  early  in 
the  afternoon,  so  as  to  maintain  a  temperature  of  80°  to  85°,  and  ventilate 
a  little  afterwards  for  the  night,  the  temperature  being  allowed  to  fall  to 
between  60°  and  65°. 
Late  Houses. — Young  shoots  that  are  to  carry  next  year's  crop  must 
be  tied -in,  and  allowed  to  extend  as  far  as  space  admits,  taking  care  to 
avoid  overcrowding.  Pinch  all  side  shoots  on  extensions  that  are  not 
wanted  for  next  year’s  fruiting  or  for  furnishing  the  trees,  training  a 
growth  from  the  base  of  the  present  bearing  shoots.  In  thinning  the 
fruits,  leave  a  few  more  than  will  be  required  for  the  crop.  Keep  the 
foliage  clean  by  syringing  twice  a  day  in  tine  weather,  and  always  early, 
to  allow  the  leaves  to  become  dry  before  night.  Mulch  the  borders  with 
short  manure,  and  water  thoroughly  when  necessary.  Ventilate  early', 
and  increase  the  ventilation  with  the  sun  heat,  closing  early  if  the  ripen¬ 
ing  is  to  be  accelerated,  but  if  wanted  late  keep  as  cool  as  possible. 
Young  Trees.  —  These  in  course  of  formation  must  be  properly 
