452 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
May  2C,  1898. 
disbudded,  leaving  the  main  branches  or  shoots  about  15  or  18  inches 
apart,  and  the  bearing  wood  at  those  distances  along  them.  Train  the 
extensions  their  full  length,  and  pinch  the  side  shoots  on  last  year’s 
growth  to  two  or  three  leaves,  so  as  to  form  spurs,  and  to  one  of 
subsequent  growth.  Laterals  on  current  year’s  wood  should  be  pinched 
at  the  first  joint,  and  successional  growths  so  treated  as  made. 
m  bbe-k^epbr] 
Size  of  Frames. 
This  we  consider  of  more  importance  than  the  size  of  the  hive,  for 
if  the  latter  is  originally  large  enough,  it  may  be  extended  or  reduced 
hy  regulating  the  division  board.  But  when  the  frame  is  once  made 
it  cannot  be  altered  without  making  a  change  throughout  the  hive. 
It  is,  however,  a  mistake  to  suppose  that  an  inch  either  one  way  or 
the  other  will  make  any  material  difference,  either  in  the  number  of 
bees  or  in  the  weight  of  honey  obtained  from  a  hive.  If  there  is  a 
recognised  size,  as  good  as  any  other,  in  general  use  among  bee-keepers, 
it  is  obviously  as  well  to  use  it.  We  are  therefore  of  the  opinion  that 
what  is  known  as  the  “  Standard  frame  ”  may  still  tvith  advantage  be 
used  throughout  the  country. 
Frames  Parallel  to  Entrance. 
Should  frames  be  placed  parallel  to  the  entrance,  or  at  right  angles  ? 
The  majority  of  the  frames  in  our  apiary  are  placed  in  the  latter 
position,  but  several  are  parallel  to  the  entrance.  During  the  past 
winter  we  observed  them  closely  to  see  if  there  were  any  difference  in 
the  condition  of  the  stocks,  either  in  the  number  of  bees  in  the  hives 
at  the  present  time,  or  in  the  amount  of  stores  consumed.  One  is 
similar  to  the  other  in  this  respect ;  some  are  strong,  whereas  others 
are  w^eak. 
We  are  inclined  to  think  that  during  a  severe  Avinter  the  bees  may 
he  kept  warmer  if  the  frames  are  placed  parallel  to  the  entrance  and 
the  outer  combs  removed,  the  dummy  being  placed  close  up  to  the 
frames.  This  will  allow  for  an  open  air  space,  and  the  bees  will  be 
warmer  in  consequence,  while  the  brood  nest  may  then  be  gradually 
extended  in  the  spring.  In  ordinary  seasons,  however,  one  cannot 
detect  any  difference  in  those  tried  on  the  two  systems,  only  what 
is  usually  observed  where  several  stocks  are  kept,  that  some  wUl 
always  be  stronger  than  others  in  the  spring. — An  English  Bee- 
NEEPER; 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should,  until 
further  notice,  be  directed  to  “The  Editor,”  8.  Rose  Hill  Road, 
Wandswortb,  S.'W.,  and  proT  to  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers, 
Fleet  Street.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately  to 
any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to 
unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  departmental  writers 
are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they  may  receive  on 
Gardening  and  Bee  subjects  through  the  post.  If  information 
be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any  particular 
authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be  made  to  obtain 
it  by  the  Editor.  Letters  of  inquiry  must  be  accompanied  by 
the  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers,  but  these  will  neither  be 
published  nor  disclosed  when  initials  or  nom  de  flumes  are  given 
for  the  purpose  of  replies. 
Late  Inquiries. — Questions  which  only  arrived  the  day  before 
xnaking  up  for  press  cannot  he  answered  in  the  present  issue,  in 
consequence  of  exceptional  pressure. 
Heating  a  Small  Greenhouse  (F.  (?.).— Boilers  of  the  type  illustrated 
in  our  advertising  columns  on  the  12th  inst.  are  extensively  employed  in 
heating  such  houses  as  you  describe,  set  flush  with  one  end  of  the  house. 
If  you  write  again  be  so  good  as  to  comply  with  the  requirements  at  the 
head  of  this  column  as  to  sending  name  and  address. 
Transplanting  Anriculas  (^H.  T.  H.). — We  have  divided  and  planted 
border  Auriculas  with  the  most  satisfactory  results  at  this  season  of  the 
year  when  the  weather  is  favourable,  as  it  is  now,  for  the  operation.  If 
dry  weather  follow  they  must  be  kept  moist,  and  if  in  a  naturally  shaded 
position  all  the  better.  We  divided  and  planted  some  ten  days  ago,  and 
they  do  not  seem  to  have  sustained  any  check  to  growth. 
A  Tomato  Trouble  {Tomato). — As  you  neither  know  what  is  the 
matter  with  the  plants,  explain  their  condition  nor  send  a  sample,  how 
do  you  think  it  possible  that  we  can  understand  the  case  and  advise 
thereon  ?  See  reply  to  “G.  E.  and  S.,”  also  “N.  G.  E.,”  whose  cases  may 
or  may  not  differ  from  yours. 
Lophospermum  scandens  Hoots  Diseased  (A.  G.  F.). — The  decay  of 
the  tissues  of  the  fleshy  roots  or  root  stems  probably  arises  from  the 
heavy  and  moist  condition  of  the  soil.  We  have  noticed  similar  cases, 
and  usually  found  root-stem  eelworm  in  association,  but  there  is  none  in 
either  the  living  or  decayed  parts  of  the  root  sent,  and  the  threads  of  the 
fungus  present  do  not  enter  the  living  tissues.  Probably  the  decay  has 
been  set  up  by  some  pest,  and  spread  by  an  excess  of  moisture.  As 
the  stem  has  been  girdled  immediately  beneath  the  soil,  the  only  chance 
of  saving  the  plant  will  be  by  encouraging  roots  from  the  collar,  above 
the  injured  part,  if  you  consider  it  worth  while. 
The  Tree  Tomato  ( W.  J.  B.), — The  fruit  sent  is  a  small  example  of 
Cyphomandra  betacea,  a  native  of  Brazil,  also  known  as  Solanum 
fragrans.  We  figured  a  much  larger  fruit  a  few  years  ago,  as  grown  by 
Rev.  W.  Wilks.  The  plant  is  popularly  known  as  the  Tree  Tomato. 
Mr.  Wilks’  “tree”  was  9  feet  high,  and  produced  many  fruits,  which 
ripened  during  November,  December,  and  .Tanuary,  in  an  orchard  house 
from  which  only  frost  was  excluded.  The  fruit  when  raw  has  firmer 
flesh  than  the  Tomato,  and  is  slightly  more  acid,  but  when  cooked  is 
scarcely  distinguishable  from  tbe  ordinary  Tomato.  Cyphomandra 
betacea  is  a  member  of  the  Solanum  family.  It  has  been  cultivated  in 
botanical  gardens  for  many  years,  but  is  rarely  seen  in  private  gardens. 
It  is  easily  grown,  and  ornamental  when  the  acute  egg-shaped  fruits  are 
ripe.  The  leaves  you  sent,  as  large  as  those  of  fine  Spinach,  and  equally 
soft,  arrived  quite  fresh,  through  having  been  packed  in  soft  fresh  grass 
— the  best  of  all  material  for  keeping  floweis  and  foliage  fresh  during 
transit. 
Mottled  Tomatoes  (A,  G.  W.). — The  Tomato  is  not  affected  by  any 
recognised  disease.  The  serious  defect  of  imperfect  colouring  has  been 
attributed  to  various  causes,  that  of  cross-fertilisation  with  the  3’ellow- 
fruited  variety  being  one,  but  we  are  more  inclined  to  attribute  it  to  soil 
influence  as  affecting  the  chlorophyll.  We  have  found  that  the  use  of 
manures  yielding  nitrogen  steadily,  such  as  fish  meal  and  native  guano, 
with  a  little  double  sulphate  of  potash  and  magnesia,  and  a  moderate 
amount  of  dissolved  bones,  dry  and  crumbling,  give  good  results  under 
such  circumstances.  A  little  sulphate  of  iron  also  tends  to  intensify  the 
green  and  afterwards  the  ripening  colour,  not  using  more  than  a  quarter 
of  an  ounce  to  a  gallon  of  water,  and  only  occasionally.  There  is  a  small 
black  mark  in  the  “  rind,”  but  we  cannot  determine  this  to  be  any  form  of 
parasitic  growth,  and  it  certainly  does  not  extend  into  the  adjacent  tissues. 
We  should  give  plenty  of  air  and  expose  the  plants  to  as  much  light  as 
possible,  keeping  warmth  in  the  pipes  as  may  be  necessary,  so  as  to  admit 
of  a  little  air  constantly.  Perhaps  some  of  our  experienced  corre¬ 
spondents  will  favour  with  their  views  on  the  serious  defect  indicated. 
Vine  Leaves  and  Grapes  Diseased  {Essex  Hmise).  —  The  splendid 
leaves,  deep  shining  green,  are  verj'  slightly  infested  with  Grape  mould 
fungus,  Botrytis  cinerea,  and  the  berries  are  affected  with  rust,  upon 
which  there  appears  a  trace  of  mildew,  Oidium  balsami.  We  see  no 
cause  for  alarm,  as  tbe  mould  has  possibly  been  favoured  by  the  recent 
wet  and  cold  weather,  necessitating  keeping  the  house  close,  and  the  rust 
caused  by  cold  air  coming  in  contact  with  the  berries  causing  a  chill  and 
contraction  of  the  epidermis.  We  should  dust  a  little  sulphur  on  the 
parts  affected,  but  not  anywhere  else,  keeping  a  sharp  look  out,  and  if 
there  are  signs  of  the  affections  spreading  use  the  flowers  of  sulphur  all 
over  the  Vines.  This  we  hardly  think  will  be  necessary  (and  it  is  best 
avoided  if  possible),  as  the  little  sulphur  used  will  give  off  fumes,  arrest¬ 
ing  the  mould  and  mildew.  It  will  hardly  answer  to  use  sulphur  on  the 
hot-water  pipes  at  the  present  time,  for  the  cuticle  of  the  berries  is  very 
tender  and  easily  rusted.  If  you  use  it  there  apply  very  lightly,  and  do 
not  heat  the  pipes  highly,  but  only  sufficiently  to  give  off  faint  fumes 
of  sulphur.  We  do  not  know  of  anything  you  can  do  to  prevent  the 
reappearance  of  the  mould  and  mildew,  except  being  more  careful  in 
ventilation.  In  that  respect  we  think  there  has  been  a  little  error  at 
some  time,  which  has  led  to  the  trifling  mischief.  The  leaves  and  bunch 
are  otherwise  remarkably  fine. 
Diseased  Lilium  {H.  T.  H.). — The  leaves  and  flower  stem  have  been 
destroyed  by  the  so-called  Lily  disease  fungus  (Botrytis  galanthina— 
the  conidial  condition  of  Sclerotinia  bulborum).  It  is  very  destructive  to 
species  of  Crocus,  Galanthus,  Hyacinthus,  Lilium,  and  other  raonoooty- 
ledonous  plants,  but  of  all’useful  products  affects  Onions  the  most  seriously. 
The  ways  of  the  parasite  are  inscrutable.  It  will  sometimes  take  whole 
rows  of  plants,  at  others  Only  a  patch  here  and  there,  and  in  some  cases 
only  destroy  some  parts  of  a  plant.  Possibly  the  tissues  of  the  plants  are 
weakened  by  some  cause,  and  in  such  condition  as  to  fall  an  easy  prey  to 
the  fungus.  We  have  made  several  experiments  in  this  connection,  and 
find  that  the  differences  are  mainly  attributable  to  divergences  in  consti¬ 
tutional  proclivities  and  conformation  of  epidermal  tissues.  Only  the 
tender  growths  are  affected  in  your  case,  the  bulb  being  quite  sound,  also 
the  lower  part  of  the  stem,  the  fungus  apparently  having  no  power  over 
the  matured  tissue  and  hardened  epidermis.  We  advise  the  cutting  away 
and  burning  of  all  the  damaged  parts  at  once,  for  in  these  appear  the 
minute  elongated  black  bodies  or  sclerotia  by  which  the  parasite  passes 
over  from  year  to  year.  After  this  dress  the  plants  with  best  air-slaked 
chalk  lime,  dry  and  floury.  It  is  easily  applied  to  the  plants  by  means  of 
an  old  worsted  stocking  shaken  up  and  down  over  them.  This  we  have 
found  of  service,  giving  a  good  coat,  not  when  wet  with  rain,  but  in  the 
evening  or  morning  when  only  very  slightly  damp  with  dew. 
