472 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
June  2,  1898. 
^'*0  All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should,  until 
further  notice,  be  directed  to“  The  Editor,”  8.  Rose  HlH  Road, 
Wandsworth,  S.W.,  and  JTOT  to  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers, 
Fleet  Street.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately  to 
any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to 
unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  departmental  writers 
are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they  may  receive  on 
Gardening  and  Bee  subjects  through  the  post.  If  information 
be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any  particular 
authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be  made  to  obtain 
it  by  the  Editor.  Letters  of  inquiry  must  be  accompan'ed  by 
the  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers,  but  these  will  neither  be 
published  nor  disclosed  when  initials  or  nom  de  plumes  are  giveu 
for  the  purpose  of  replies. 
Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  it  is  convenient  when 
each  question  is  written  on  a  separate  sheet.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  be  known  by  the 
•  Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
Seedling  Gloxinia  (Flora). — The  flower  is  good,  rich  crimson  in  body 
colour,  and  clearly  spotted  round  the  edge.  The  variety  is  worthy  of 
preservation  and  increase  for  home  decoration,  but  is  not  sufficiently 
distinct  from,  and  superior  to,  others  in  cultivation  to  possess  appreciable 
commercial  value,  though  it  is  above  the  average  merit  of  seedlings. 
Stopping  Melons  (Melon). — If  by  the  top  of  the  pit  }'ou  mean  top  of 
the  trellis  it  is  best  to  allow  the  leading  growths  to  extend  about  two- 
thirds  across  it,  or  on  a  6-feet  wide  trellis  4  feet  to  4  feet  6  inches,  and 
then  pinch  off  the  end  when  quite  small.  This  will  throw  the  vigour 
into  the  laterals,  and  give  rise  to  plenty  of  them  for  fruiting.  The  laterals 
may  be  stopped  when  the  blossoms  are  fertilised  one  joint  beyond  the 
show  for  fruit.  If  no  fruit  show  at  the  second  or  third  joint  of  the 
laterals  stop  them  at  the  third  leaf,  so  as  to  cause  sub-laterals  and  a 
plentiful  show  of  flowers  for  setting  and  insuring  a  crop  of  fruit. 
Chrysalis  of  Insect  (J.  C.). — The  pupa  appears  that  of  the  puss  moth 
(Dicramera  vinula),  the  caterpillar  of  which  has  a  very  singular  appear¬ 
ance  by  its  two  tail-like  appendages,  and  when  disturbed  placing  itself 
in  a  fighting  attitude.  It  constructs  the  very  singular  cocoon  out  of 
bits  of  bark  or  wood,  glueing  them  together  and  forming  a  protection 
for  the  winter,  in  which  it  changes  into  pupa  as  forwarded.  The  moths 
usually  appear  at  the  end  of  May  or  the  beginning  of  June.  The  spray, 
much  dried,  appears  that  of  Euphorbia  cyparissias,  useful  for  greenery  in 
arranging  fiowers  in  vases. 
Carnation  Leaves  Diseased  (P.  J.  P.). — The  spots  on  the  “grass”  are 
the  pustules  of  the  rust  fungus  (Uromyces  caryophillinus).  It  ‘first 
appears  on  the  leaf  or  stem  as  a  pale  elevated  pustule,  over  which  the 
epidermis  soon  breaks,  hanging  on  the  edges  in  a  ragged  condition,  and 
reveals  a  brown  powdery  mass,  which  consists  of  the  reproductive  spores 
of  the  fungus.  These  bodies  (uredospores)  are  those  by  which  the  disease 
is  rapidly  propagated  and  spread.  To  prevent  this  the  plants  may  be 
dusted  with  an  advertised  fungicide  in  powder,  such  as  fostite,  this  being 
less  objectionable  than  Bordeaux  mixture,  but  both  have  a  deleterious 
effect  on  the  roots  unless  very  carefully  used.  We  use  permanganate  of 
potash,  half  ounce  to  a  gallon  of  water,  applying  with  a  sponge  to  the 
affected  parts,  a  very  tedious  but  effective  application.  For  spraying 
purposes  sulphide  of  potassium,  half  ounce  to  a  gallon  of  water,  answers 
well,  or  it  may  be  applied  to  the  pustules  with  a  sponge,  afterwards 
sprajing  as  a  preventive.  Serious  infestations  are  beyond  cure. 
Propagating  Hardy  Azalea  ( W.  T.). — From  your  description  of  it 
the  variety  is  probably  one  of  the  innumerable  Ghent  Azaleas  which 
originated  by  crossing  the  Turkish  A.  pontica  with  certain  American 
species,  and  the  intercrossing  of  resulting  varieties.  If  seed  ripens  we 
should  sow  some  in  sand^'  peat  in  pots  or  boxes,  as  it  is  possible  several 
plants  may  come  true.  W^ell  chosen  cuttings  of  the  previous  year’s  wood, 
2  or  3  inches  long,  taken  with  a  heel,  and  inserted  in  sand  about  the  end 
of  August,  emit  roots.  They  must  be  covered  with  a  hand-light  and  kept 
somewhat  close  for  about  two  months,  and  at  the  end  of  that  time  air  should 
be  gradually  given  and  increased.  Layers,  mossed  and  well  pegged  into 
free  gritty  soil  in  March,  produce  roots,  but  should  remain  in  position 
two  years  before  being  separated.  Owing  to  the  proneness  of  several 
varieties  to  canker  on  their  own  roots,  they  are  usually  increased  by 
grafting  on  stocks  of  A.  phcenicea,  raised  from  cuttings  and  established 
in  small  pots  for  the  purpose.  They  may  be  side  grafted  in  a  close  case 
in  spring  or  summer.  These,  under  good  management,  make  the.  most 
satisfactory  plants. 
Diseased  Tulip  Leaves  ( W.  IF.). — The  leaves  are  affected  by  the  spot 
fungus  (Botrytis  galanthina),  which  is  rather  prevalent  this  season  on 
liliaceous  plants,  especially  Liliums.  It  seldom  does  more  than  hasten 
the  decay  of  the  leafage  of  Tulips,  and  so  far  as  we  know  does  not 
materially  affect  the  bulbs  unless  left  in  the  ground  from  year  to  year, 
and  even  then  we  have  not  found  much  harm  result  if  a  dressing  of 
quicklime  be  applied  after  the  tops  are  cleared  away.  Of  course  it  is  the 
mycelial  form  that  affects  the  bulbs  and  passes  over  from  year  to  year  by 
the  sclerotia  from  which  spring  the  final  stage,  called  Sclerotinia 
bulborum.  Burn  the  tops,  and  use  quicklime  slaked  as  a  top-dressing, 
about  ^  lb.  per  square  yard  sufficing,  pointing  very  lightly  in. 
Strawberry  Leaves  Scorched  (Salopia). — The  leaves  are  “  scorched  ’ 
through  moisture  having  been  condensed  on  them,  and  then  air  admitted, 
perhaps  too  late,  and  so  freely  as  to  cause  speedy  evaporation.  We  have 
known  many  similar  cases,  especially  with  luxuriant  plants,  the  moisture 
hanging  on  the  edges  of  the  leaves,  causing  the  destruction  of  the  tissues. 
There  is  no  disease  ;  a  little  heat  in  the  pipes,  and  a  circulation  of  air 
constantly  by  leaving  a  chink  for  top  ventilation  all  night,  with  timely 
attention  to  increasing  it  early  in  the  day,  being  the  best  preventive. 
Such  occurrences  are  the  most  prevalent  after  a  continuance  of  cold,  dull 
weather,  and  on  a  return  to  bright  days,  the  precaution  not  having  been 
taken  to  meet  the  changed  circumstances  by  early  ventilation. 
Increasing  Bulbs  (Evesham  Gardener). — The  scales  of  bulbs  are 
flattened  leafstalks,  and  at  their  base  are  latent  buds.  On  slicing  off 
the  end  of  a  bulb,  just  above  the  ring  from  which  the  roots  issue,  some  at 
least  of  the  parts  containing  such 
buds  are  brought  in  contact  with 
the  soil  in  which  the  bulbs  are 
embedded,  and  if  this  is  very  sandy 
bulblets  form  and  attain  the  size  of 
large  peas  the  first  season,  and  de¬ 
velop  into  flowering  size  in  thiee  or 
four  years.  We  have  seen  Hyacinths 
increased  in  that  manner,  and 
thousands  of  Liliums  raised  from 
scales.  We  have  not  actually  seen 
Narcissus  bulbs  similarly  treated, 
though  the  plan  may  be  resorted  to 
by  experts  in  increasing  choice  and 
valuable  varieties.  In  ordinary  cul¬ 
ture  Narcissus  bulbs  are  taken  up 
every  second  or  third  3'ear  for  the 
removal  of  natural  offsets,  this 
being  considered  better  than  re¬ 
moving  the  small  offsets  yearly. 
An  example  of  slicing  and  its  results  may  be  seen  in  the  small  illustra¬ 
tion  (fig.  88),  but  inner  circles  of  bulblets  often  form,  and  still  more  when 
transverse  cuts  are  also  made  across  the  base  of  large  bulbs. 
Zonal  Pelargoniums  to  Flower  in  August  (A.  S.  P.). — The  plants  in 
5-inch  pots  would  be  the  better  by  a  shift  into  a  larger  size,  affording 
room  for  a  little  fresh  soil  being  pressed  down  all  round  the  ball  of  roots. 
The  points  of  the  shoots  may  be  pinched  once  if  you  wish  to  induce  a 
bushy  hahit ;  but  as  }’Ou  require  cut  bloom,  the  stronger  the  growths  the 
better  will  be  the  trusses  and  pips,  therefore  you  must  exercise  judgment 
in  these  respects.  The  cold  frame  will  be  much  the  best  place  for  the 
plants,  as  they  can  be  encouraged  to  make  growth,  and  when  coming  into 
flower  the  lights  will  be  necessary  to  preserve  the  bloom  ;  but  up  to  that 
time  ventilate  freely,  or  even  remove  the  lights  during  favourable  weather 
to  induce  a  sturdy  habit.  On  choosing  a  number  of  trusses  timed  for 
expansion  at  a  certain  date,  top  the  shoots  at  the  same  joint,  or  do  not 
allow  more  than  one  leaf  bey  ond  each  truss.  The  finest  trusses  we  have 
seen  had  no  growth  beyond  them.  As  the  flowers  expand  fully  seal  their 
petals  with  a  drop  ot  gum,  so  that  all  you  desire  may  be  retained  in  good 
condition  for  travelling.  Some  exhibitors  thin-out  some  of  the  buds  with 
Grape  scissors  for  securing  fine  bold  individual  flowers,  larger  than 
Mr.  Cannell’s  watch,  and  it  is  not  a  small  one.  All  the  buds  chosen 
should  not  be  at  exactly  the  same  stage,  or  they  may  develop  a  little  too 
quickly  or  slowlj’,  according  to  the  weather.  Aim  at  having  a  number 
of  grand  trusses  to  choose  from  when  the  show  day  arrives. 
Sundry  Plants  (J.  C.  (S',).— Cycadaceous  plants  are  closely  allied  to 
Conifers,  but  Cycas  revoluta  and  some  other  species  are  Palm-like  in 
aspect,  and  when  well  grown  decidedly  ornamental.  C.  revoluta,  a  native 
of  China  and  Japan,  produces  a  beautiful  arching  crown  of  deeply  cut 
pinnate  leaves  of  stout  texture  from  a  short  stem.  In  the  course  of  years 
the  stem  elongates,  but  plants  are  not  often  seen  in  pots  or  tubs  with  clear 
stems  more  than  3  or  4  feet  long.  The  majority  are  much  shorter,  but 
the  plants  not  less  ornamental.  'They  succeed  in  greenhouses,  but  the 
warmer  these  are  the  quicker  the  growth.  Soil,  turfy  loam  made  porous 
with  sand  and  broken  charcoal  pressed  down  firmly,  is  suitable. 
Elasodendron  orientale  is  probably  the  correct  name  of  the  next  plant 
you  mention,  and  usually  grown  as  Aralia  Chabrieri,  not  in  greenhouses, 
which  are  usually  too  cold  in  winter,  but  in  stoves.  The  plant  has 
narrow,  arching,  deep  green  leaves,  is  very  ornamental,  and  grows  in  a 
mixture  of  peat,  loam,  and  sand.  Ipomoea  Horsfallise,  a  beautiful  crimson 
flowered  twining  plant,  is  a  native  of  the  East  Indies,  and  can  only  be 
grown  satisfactorily  in  a  temperature  of  70“  to  85°  in  summer,  and 
60°  to  65°  in  winter;  indeed  the  more  heat  it  has  the  better  it  appears 
to  thrive.  The  small  leafy  sprays  of  Magnolia  are  probably  M.  stellata, 
syn.  M.  Halleri ;  but  a  flowering  spray  is  necessary  for  positive 
identification. 
Fig.  88. 
Propagating  Hyacinths. 
