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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
June  9,  1898. 
The  collection  of  forms  of  Odontoglossum  crispum  is  a  '.  ery  com¬ 
prehensive  one,  and  amongst  the  plants  are  observable  some  of  more 
than  average  merit.  The  colours  ranged  from  pure  white  to  white 
with  many  and  with  few  spots  of  the  customary  varying  colour, 
while  the  form  and  substance  of  some  are  those  of  the  ideal  crispum. 
Mr.  Crawshay  is,  and  rightly,  a  great  stickler  for  good  shape,  and 
those  that  are  defective  in  this  respect  are  certain  of  severe  criticism 
from  him.  Happily,  too,  he  is  as  strongly  condemnatory  of  faults  in 
his  owm  flowers  as  he  is  in  those  of  others,  and  none  that  shows 
serious  blemishes  on  first  expanding  at  Rosefield  is  retained.  Thus 
will  the  quality  of  the  varieties  be  improved  year  by  year,  until  a 
standard  of  the  greatest  possible  excellence  has  been  attained  to. 
Laws  have  been  laid  down  and  are  observed,  and  they  ajiply  not  only 
to  the  points  just  adverted  .to,  but  also  to  the  advisability  of  giving 
names  to  every  one.  This  is  not  done,  and  very  properly,  and  it  would 
be  advantageous  if  indiscriminate  naming  amongst  other  plants  as  well 
as  Orchids  could  be  checked. 
The  exigencies  of  space  preclude  descriptions  being  given  of  any  of 
the  excellent  varieties  seen,  for  there  are  other  plants  that  require  and 
deserve  a  line  of  comment  now.  As  regards  the  culture  of  these  Orchids, 
the  chief  aim  is  apparently  to  secure  a  hard  strong  growth,  this  being 
sought  for,  and  found,  in  cleanliness  of  the  leaves  and  pseudo-bulbs  and 
in  a  cool  airy  atmosi^here.  The  result  is  that  the  colour  of  the  foliage 
is  deep,  and  shining  with  health,  and  the  foliage  rattles  when  touched 
with  the  hand.  By  these  means  the  plants  produce  fine  spikes  of 
flowers  of  considerable  size,  though  in  this  respect,  as  well  as  in  the 
colouration,  they  obviously  vary  considerably,  according  to  their  age. 
Amongst  the  several  other  Orchids  to  be  seen  in  the  same  credit¬ 
able  condition  are  Cattleya  Mendeli,  of  which  the  stock,  though  small, 
is  rich  in  promise.  Speaking  of  this  charming  Orchid  reminds  of  an 
experience  in  repotting  that  was  experienced  at  Eosefield.  A  small 
plant  was  procured  and  potted  in  the  ordinary  way  on  arrival,  but 
was  twice  knocked  over  and  the  pot  smashed.  Thus  it  had  to  have 
fresh  compost  three  times  before  the  first  growth  was  complete,  and 
the  result  is  the  new  pseudo-bulb  is  longer  than  the  old,  while  the 
leaves  are  much  larger  and  stouter.  This  points  to  appreciation  of 
good  food,  even  though  it  be  given  through  unorthodox  channels. 
The  varieties  of  Vanda  tricolor  are  very  fine,  some  of  the  rarer  ones 
being  noted  amidst  the  healthy  plants.  These,  which  are  all  growing 
in  the  same  house,  are  all  in  splendid  condition,  and  this  remark 
applies  with  equal  force  to  young  and  old,  large  and  small,  and  it 
proves  conclusively  that  the  air  of  this  pretty  Kentish  town  and  the 
treatment  they  receive  are  entirely  congenial. 
Turning  to  the  Lselias,  evidence  of  the  same  excellence  of  culture 
is  readily  seen,  and  as  these  again  are  great  favourites  with  their 
owner  they  receive  goodly  attention  at  his  hands.  Some  of  the 
plants  are  new,  while  others  are  old ;  one  specimen  of  L.  purpurata 
that  has  heen  at  Rosefield  for  just  over  thirteen  years  was  at  the  time 
of  this  visit  just  producing  its  first  spike  of  flowers.  Perhaps  ere  now 
it  has  gone,  and  will  know  Sevenoaks  no  more,  for  such  would 
assuredly  be  its  fate  if  it  proved  a  bad  variety.  Let  us  hope  that  after 
possessing  his  soul  in  patience  for  thirteen  years  IMr.  Crawshay  would 
be  richly  rewarded.  Then,  too,  were  noted  L.  Amesiana,  of  which  the 
Rosefield  variety  is  such  a  superb  one;  Odontoglossum nsevium  majus, 
0.  polyxanthum,  Maxillaria  t^anderiana,  and,  growing  at  the  warmer 
end  of  the  Odontoglossum  house,  some  splendid  specimens  of  Mas- 
devallia  tovarensis.  There  are  others  that  ought  to  be  mentioned, 
but  we  must  return  to  London,  where  there  is  still  much  to  see. 
— H.  J.  'Wright. 
GROWING  DIPLADENIAS. 
"Whether  grown  into  large  trained  specimens  for  exhibition  or  for 
the  decoration  of  the  stove,  these  lovely  climbers  must  always  hold  a 
foremost  position  amongst  our  choicest  stove  plants.  If  not  wanted 
for  exhibition  the  best  plan  is  to  fasten  a  trellis  of  wires  underneath 
the  roof  of  the  house  and  at  8  or  10  inches  from  it.  Over  this  the 
plants  should  be  allowed  to  ramble  freely,  taking  care  to  keep  the 
shoots  evenly  and  thinly  disposed,  so  as  to  allow  plenty  of  room  for 
the  proper  development  of  the  leaves  and  perfect  ripening  of  the  wood, 
which  is  highly  essential  to  the  free  production  of  their  flowers. 
Grown  in  this  way,  with  some  of  the  dark  highly  coloured  flowers 
produced  by  Brearleyana  and  hybrida  side  by  side,  or  intermingled 
with  the  delicate  rosy  )  ink  ones  of  D.  amoena,  they  present  one  of 
the  most  charming  sights  imaginable.  The  flowers  when  gathered 
are  very  attractive  arranged  in  shallow  dishes  with  a  few  fromls  ot 
Adiantum  gracillimum  forming  a  sort  of  screen  over  them,  and  if 
gathered  in  the  morning  when  the  house  is  coolest  they  remain  in 
good  condition  for  several  days. 
Dipladenias  are  easily  propagated  by  means  of  cuttings.  These 
will  root  at  any  time  of  the  year,  but  the  best  time  is  in  the  spring. 
and  the  cuttings  to  be  preferred  are  the  young  growths  from  the- 
preceding  year’s  wood,  taken  off  with  a  heel  when  about  3  iuches- 
long.  Inserted  singly  in  2pinch  pots,  in  a  mixture  of  half  peat 
and  half  sand,  and  placed  under  a  bell-glass  in  the  hottest  part  of 
the  stove,  these  Avill  form  roots  in  about  a  fortnight,  and  then  must 
be  gradually  exposed  to  the  ordinary  temperature  of  the  house.  Next 
to  these  I  prefer  cuttings  made  from  strong  half-ripened  shoots,  such 
as  may  be  obtained  in  May  or  June,  but  by  rooting  them  in  the 
early  part  of  the  year  they  get  fairly  started  before  the  hottest 
weather  comes,  and  perfect  their  growth  before  the  wdnter. 
To  grow  them  well — and  if  not  well  grown  they  are  best  left 
alone — they  require  a  rather  high  temperature  when  in  active  growth,, 
and  even  in  the  winter  when  at  rest  they  must  never  be  subjected 
to  a  lower  temperature  than  50°  to  55°.  If  wanted  to  flower  in 
May  they  must  be  started  early  in  January,  but  generally  speaking 
the  beginning  or  middle  of  February  is  soon  enough.  At  first 
starting  they  should  be  given  a  temperature  of  60°  to  65°  at  night,, 
with  a  rise  of  5°  by  day,  gradually  increasing  it  as  the  days  lengthen,, 
until  by  the  end  of  April  it  ranges  from  70°  to  75°  at  night,  and- 
from  75°  to  80°  by  day,  allowing  it  to  rise  to  85°  or  even  90°  with 
sun.  They  delight  in  a  moist  atmosphere,  and  must  at  all  times  be 
shaded  from  bright  sunshine,  admitting  at  the  same  time  as  much 
light  as  possible.  For  this  purpose  the  house  should  be  provided 
with  blinds,-  so  that  they  may  be  rolled  up  and  the  plants  exposed 
to  the  full  influence  of  the  light  on  every  occasion  when  there  is  no 
sun. 
The  compost  for  Dipladenias  should  consist  of  three  parts  brown  ■ 
fibrous  peat  to  two  parts  loam,  which  must  be  as  turfy  as  possible,, 
and  all  fine  soil  removed  from  it  by  sifting;  to  this  add  one-quarter 
part  each  of  sand  and  charcoal,  the  latter  broken  to  the  size  of  acorns.. 
A  small  quantity  of  chemical  manure  may  be  added.  If  really  good 
turfy  loam  is  not  available  they  may  be  potted  in  all  peat;  on  no 
account  should  poor  loam,  destitute  of  fibre,  be  used.  The  pots  must 
be  welt  drained,  and  great  care  exercised  in  watering  at  all  seasons, 
few.  plants  being  more  liable  to  injury  through  neglect  in  this  respect 
than  Dipladenias.  During  the  winter  especially,  and  before  they  have- 
fairly  taken  to  the  new  soil  after  potting,  water  must  be  cautiously 
applied,  allowing  the  soil  to  get  thoroughly  dry  before  watering,  but 
not  to  such  an  extent  as  to  cause  them  to  flag.  I  have  seen  them 
treated  as  deciduous  plants,  and  made  to  lose  all  their  foliage  in  the 
winter  by  keeping  them  dry  at  the  roots,  but  such  treatment  is- 
decidedly  -wrong  ;  they  are  naturally  evergreen,  and  must  at  all  times 
be  given  enough  water  to  enable  them  to  retain  some  of  their  leaves- 
fresh  and  healthy. 
Almost  all  kinds  of  inpects  to  which  stove  plants  are  subject  will 
live  on  Dipladenias,  but  with  proper  treatment  the  only  ones  whose 
attacks  need  be  feared  are  mealy  bug  and  brown  scale,  and  these-— 
provided  the  plants  are  thoroughly  cleansed  before  they  are  started  in 
the  spring — can  generally  be  kept  pretty  well  in  check  by  using  th& 
syringe  freely  mornings  and  afternoons.  Should  they  become  too 
firmly  established  to  be  kept  under  by  these  means,  syringing  with 
petroleum  will  get  rid  of  most  of  them. 
A  wineglassful  to  3  gallons  of  water  is  as  much  as  it  is  consistent 
with  safety  to  use,  as  -when  growing  freely  the  young  leaves  are  very 
tender  and  easily  injured.  Even  this  quantity  must  be  carefully 
applied,  mixing  it  well  with  the  water  before  syringing  it  over  the 
plants,  and  washing  it  off  with  clean  water  a  few  minutes  after wards.. 
Keep  them  well  shaded  for  two  or  three  days,  and  if  properly 
managed  no  evil  will  result  from  the  application,  which,  if  necessary, 
may  be  repeated  in  a  week  or  ten  days.  Scale  may  be  got  rid  of  in 
the*  same  way,  but  being  more  difficult  to  destroy  it  is  generally 
necessary  to  syringe  the  plants  three  or  four  times  in  succession  at 
intervals  of  not  less  than  a  week. 
As  soon  as  the  flower  buds  appear  give  weak  liquid  manure  at 
every  alternate  watering ;  that  made  from  fresh  cow  or  sheep  manure- 
and  diluted  -with  clear  water  to  the  requisite  strength  is  as  good  as 
any  for  them.  This  will  greatly  prolong  their  season  of  blooming, 
besides  making  the  individual  flowers  finer  in  every  respect.  Without 
some  such  aid  the  trusses  produced  after  the  first  flowers  open  Avill 
be  very  weak,  and  will  have  only  a  small  quantity  of  buds  on  each  ; 
strong  trusses  will  frequently  produce  as  many  as  thirty  flowers  in 
succession,  lasting  over  a  period  of  nearly  two  months. 
Any  plants  that  are  intended  for  exhibition  should  be  supplied, 
with  balloon  or  other  shaped  trellises  of  the  size  they  are  likely  to- 
require,  and  the  whole  of  the  wood  fastened  thereto  before  they  are 
started.  Each  young  shoot  when  about  3  inches  in  length  should 
have  a  string  placed  for  it  to  climb  on,  running  from  the  trellis  to  the 
highest  part  of  the  roof,  as  before  mentioned,  giving  each  shoot  a  fair 
amount  of  room.  Comparatively  .small  pots  should  be  used,  those 
14  or  15  inches  in  diameter  being  sufficiently  large  for  even  the  finest 
specimens.  In  pots  of  this  size  they  maybe  grown  year  alter  year, 
turning  them  out  just  as  they  start  into  growth,  and  removing 
enough  of  the  old  soil  to  permit  their  being  placed  in  the  same  pots- 
again. — P. 
