510 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
June  16,  1898. 
the  bees  will  often  work  more  readily  in  these  at  the  commencement 
of  the  season  than  they  will  on  foundation.  In  either  case  it  is 
necessary  to  cover  the  crate  up  warm,  as  warmth  is  essential  to  the 
proper  sealing  over  of  the  combs. 
If  the  weather  is  warm  and  likely  to  remain  so,  a  second  crate 
of  sections  may  be  placed  underneath  the  other  when  it  is  three 
parts  sealed  over;  this  will  prevent  the  bees  swarming,  and  they  will 
continue  storing  a  surplus  whilst  sealing  over  the  combs  in  those 
already  filled. — An  English  Bee-keeper, 
Hj,**  All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should,  until 
further  notice,  be  directed  to  “  The  Editor,”  a.  Rose  Hill  Road, 
Wandsworth,  S.W.,  and  NOT  to  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers, 
Fleet  Street.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately  to 
any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to 
unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  departmental  writers 
are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they  may  receive  on 
Gardf^ning  and  B<-e  subjects  thiovmh  the  [)ost.  If  information 
be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any  particular 
authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be  made  to  obtain 
it  by  the  Editor.  Letters  of  inquiry  must  be  accompanied  by 
the  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers,  but  these  will  neither  be 
published  nor  disclosed  when  initials  or  nom  de  plumes  are  given 
for  the  purpose  of  replies. 
Oor respondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  it  is  convenient  when 
each  question  is  written  on  a  separate  sheet.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  he  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted.  ^ 
Stocks  for  Producing  Flowers  for  Cutting  in  the  Spring  {A.  G.  G,). _ 
The  Brompton,  the  Ooeardeau  or  Giant  Cape,  and  the  East  Lothian  are 
all  suitable  for  the  purpose,  but  are  injured,  if  not  killed,  during  severe 
winters  unless  grown  in  specially  favourable  positions.  For  growing  in 
pots,  and  wintered  in  frames,  East  Lothians  are  very  fine.  If  you  only 
wish  to  try  one  kind,  let  it  be  the  Brompton.  If  you  want  particular 
colours  they  must  be  ordered,  the  scarlet  and  white  being  the  most  in 
demand. 
Caterpillar  on  Euonymus  (fi.  H.  i?.).— The  caterpillar  with  the  gay 
colouring  and  looping  gait  is  that  of  the  magpie  moth  (Abraxas  grossu- 
luriata),  and  that  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaf,  and  with  light  threads 
attaching  it  to  the  surface,  is  another  of  the  same  species  about  to  pass 
into  the  chrysalis  state,  which  is  done  in  a  light  cocoon.  The  moth 
emerges  about  the  middle  of  summer.  The  caterpillar  usually  feeds  on 
the  leafage  of  Currant  and  Gooseberry  bushes,  also  rosaceous  plants, 
nut  on  Euonymus,  and  the  leaves  sent  do  not  appear  eaten,  the  caterpillar 
having  no  doubt  selected  the  shrub  for  purposes  of  pupation.  The  cater¬ 
pillars  are  easily  destroyed  by  hand-picking,  as  they  are  seldom  very 
numerous. 
Bichardia  setlxiopica  (  Wakopd), — The  above  is  the  correct  name  of 
the  plant  that  is  so  extensively,  and  often  profitably,  grown,  by  the  sale 
of  its  large  white  spathes.  It  is  a  native  of  Africa,  and  known  also  as 
Calla  africana— popularly,  as  the  Arum  Lily,  though  it  is  not  a  Lily,  but 
an  Aroid.  Since  writing  your  letter  you  may  have  seen  the  excellent 
article  on  the  culture  of  “  Arum  Lilies,”  by  Mr.  Brotherston,  on 
page  482.  Thousands  of  plants  are  planted  in  rich  soil  in  the  open 
ground  in  May  or  J une  to  be  taken  up  and  planted  under  glass  in 
the  autumn,  though  some  growers  prefer  flowering  them  in  pots.  After 
flowering,  the  plants  are  removed  and  a  crop  of  Tomatoes  or  Cucumbers 
obtained  in  the  house  before  it  is  wanted  for  the  “Arums  ”  in  the  autumn. 
The  plants  are  not  bulbous,  but  herbaceous  perennials. 
Fears  infested  with  Maggots  ((7.  C.  E^. — The  Pears  are  attacked  by 
the  Pear  midge  larvas.  The  subject  was  fully  treated  in  tbe  Journal  of 
Horticulture  of  June  drd,  1897,  page  487,  and  illustrations  given  of  the 
pest— the  Pear  gall  gnat  (Dip'osis  pyrivora).  The  only  thing  to  be  done 
now  is  to  remove  all  the  swollen  fruits  and  burn  them.  This  must  be 
done  at  once,  or  the  pests  will  leave  the  fruit  and  become  pupa  in  the 
soil.  A  dressing  of  kainit  in  the  autumn,  4  ozs.  per  square  yard,  has  a 
good  effect,  but  the  midges  come  from  neglected  orchards,  so  only  con- 
tinned  action  can  completely  eradicate  the  pest.  Instead  of  committing 
suicide,  if  the  wash  advised  kills  your  trees,  we  would  suggest  the  alter¬ 
native  of  your  giving  the  adviser  of  it  a  horsewhipping.  We  trust  the 
fresh  lease  of  literary  life  you  have  taken  will  prove  long  and  satisfactory, and 
when  the  pen  needs  exercise  let  it  have  a  run  ;  the  course  is  as  safe  as  ever. 
Compost  for  Eucharis  (^Meath). — The  soil  should  consist  of  two  parts 
rich  turfy  loam  to  one  of  leaf  mould  or  thoroughly  decayed  manure,  with 
about  a  sixth  of  broken  charcoal,  to  keep  it  open,  incorporating  all  well 
together.  Liquid  manure  may  be  given  with  advantage  when  the  plants 
have  got  well  hold  of  the  soil,  and  the  pots  crowded  with  roots,  especially 
after  the  flower  scapes  appear. 
Daphne  indica  rubra  (/demj. — This  plant  requires  a  greenhouse 
temperature,  and  cannot  be  grown  in  too  much  light  after  established 
from  the  cuttings  or  grafts.  When  making  growth  a  temperature  of 
about  55°  is  suitable,  but  the  plants  may  be  subsequently  grown  in 
a  frame.  They  require  gradually'  but  well  hardening  afterwards,  and 
keeping  quite  cool  during  the  autumn  and  winter,  in  order  to  thoroughly 
ripen  the  wood,  as  on  that  depends  the  success  in  flowering.  Avoid  over¬ 
potting.  A  suitable  compost  consists  of  equal  parts  peat  and  loam,  or 
the  latter  alone  when  of  a  turfy  nature.  Give  water  very  carefully, 
especially  in  winter.  Good  drainage  is  essential  to  the  health  of  the 
plants. 
Overgrown  Stephanotis  {S.  B.). — When  the  plant  has  filled  the  allotted 
space  it  is  advisable  to  thin  out  the  longest  and  barest  of  the  branches  in 
such  manner  as  to  keep  the  plant  well  furnished  with  young  growths 
from  base  to  extremity,  having  the  flowering  parts  so  far  asunder  that 
light  and  air  can  act  upon  them.  This  requires  a  little  forethought,  and 
then  it  is  easy  to  secure  a  succession  of  flowering  growths  by  cutting 
back  the  long  and  bare  wood,  or  thinning  as  required.  The  plant  will 
give  much  finer  flowers  than  by  reserving  a  large  quantity  of  wood, 
which  is  useless,  because  much  of  it  will  be  bare  of  flowering  parts.  The 
plant  should  be  kept  rather  dry  a  few  days  before  and  after  any  extensive 
pruning,  but  not  so  dry  as  to  injure  it. 
Plants  and  Insect  (./.  6.  8.). — Brunfelsia  (Eranciscea)  Hopeana  or 
eonfertiflora  is  a  st'.ve  plant  and  very  floriferous.  succeeding  in  a  cool 
stove  or  warm  greenhouse,  if  kept  rather  dry  in  winter,  but  not  causing 
the  leaves  to  fall.  Dasylirion  longifolium  is  an  ornamental  greenhouse 
evergreen,  admirable  for  conservatory  decoration,  also  for  sub-tropical 
gardening.  Magnolia  Soulangeana  is  probably  a  natural  hybrid  between 
M,  conspicua  and  M,  obovata,  white  with  purple  tint,  hardly  so  sweet  as 
those  referred  to,  yet  a  fine  form  of  M.  conspicua.  The  lively  and 
beautiful  insect  is  the  Box  sucker  (Psylla  buxi),  which  injures  the  young 
shoots  and  leaves,  causing  them  to  have  a  crumpled  and  stunted 
appearance.  It  seldom,  however,  does  much  harm.  The  bushes  may  be 
syringed  with  any  of  the  advertised  insecticides,  following  the  instructions. 
Pear  Leaves  Blackened  (/.  if,). — The  leaves  and  young  wood  are 
badly  attacked  by  the  scab  fungus  (Eusicladium  dendriticum)  in  the  early 
leaf  and  shoot  form,  and  may  probably  have  been  accelerated  by  the 
recent  wet,  followed  by  the  current  cold,  dull  weather.  It  is  rather 
common  this  season  on  various  rosaceous  plants,  especially  Thorns  and 
Pears,  and  is  known  as  Actinonema  Crat^gi.  We  should  cut  away  as 
much  of  the  growth  as  can  be  spared,  also  any  young  fruits  affected,  as 
they  would  only  crack  if  left,  then  spray  the  tree  with  a  solution  of 
sulphide  of  potassium  (liver  of  sulphur)  J  oz.  to  a  gallon  of  water.  If 
you  have  not  a  spraying  apparatus  apply  by  means  of  a  fine-rose  syringe, 
repeating  in  about  ten  days,  and  again  at  a  similar  interval.  In  the 
autumn  it  would  be  advisable  to  lift  the  tree,  or  at  least  to  root-prune  to 
some  extent,  and  add  fresh  soil  with  calcareous  matter,  such  as  old 
mortar  rubbish. 
Eoses  for  Pots  (P.  W). — We  have  raised  many  Koses  from  cuttings, 
choosing  firm,  healthy  portions  of  matured  wood  of  the  current  season 
with  dormant  buds.  The  stems  which  have  flowered  in  the  summer,  taken 
with  a  heel  or  otherwise,  cut  about  8  inches  long,  inserted  6  or  7  inches 
deep  in  sandy  soil  in  the  open  ground  early  in  October,  have  given  us  a 
good  proportion  of  plants,  as  also  have  firm  short-jointed  portions  of 
shoots  which  have  not  flowered.  If  the  leaves  which  rest  on  the  soil 
when  the  cuttings  are  inserted  can  be  kept  fresh  by  shading  and  sprinkling 
as  may  be  needed  rooting  is  the  more  sure,  though  we  have  raised 
hundreds  of  plants  by  inserting  the  cuttings  a  little  later,  or  as  soon  as 
the  leaves  can  be  shaken  off.  The  method  was  to  stretch  a  line,  chop 
out  a  trench  of  the  proper  depth,  throw  some  sand  in  it,  press  down  the 
cuttings  slantingly  about  6  inches  apart,  place  back  the  soil  and  tread  it 
against  them,  with  the  tops  just  above  the  level  of  the  soil.  All  varieties 
do  not  emit  roots  with  equal  freedom.  Well  selected  cuttings  of  the 
common  Briar,  made  and  inserted  in  the  same  way  when  the  leaves  are 
falling,  give  a  good  percentage  of  plants  which  remain  in  position,  and 
are  suitable  for  budding  with  any  varieties  of  Tea,  H.P.,  or  other  Eoses 
during  the  second  summer  after  insertion.  When  they  are  ready  the 
soil  is  cleared  from  around  them  for  the  insertion  of  one  bud  in  each 
stem — the  part  previously  within  the  surface  of  the  ground.  The  stocks 
are  cleared  of  basal  growths  for  facilitating  the  operation,  but  are  not 
cut  down  till  the  following  spring,  when  the  bud  extends  and,  in  the 
case  of  many  varieties,  flowers  the  same  season.  These  “  maidens,”  if 
taken  up  and  either  potted  or  planted  in  the  autumn  and  cut  back  in  the 
spring,  make  good  flowering  plants.  The  pots  containing  the  Eoses  are 
plunged  to  their  rims  in  ashes  in  summer,  and  if  they  remain  out  through 
the  winter  the  rims  are  well  covered  also,  or  there  would  be  many  break¬ 
ages.  When  a  stock  is  once  obtained  it  is  easy  to  maintain  or  increase  it 
by  raising  the  desired  number  of  plants  yearly.  You  must  remember 
that  all  the  buds  must  be  cut  clean  out  the  Briar  stems,  except  a  couple 
at  the  top,  and  which  are  just  above  ground  when  the  cuttings  are 
inserted  ;  but  the  whole  of  the  buds  may  be  left  intact  when  the  cuttings 
are  taken  from  varieties  of  Eoses  that  you  may  desire  to  increase  by  that 
method.  We  are  glad  that  after  many  years  of  reading  it  you  find  the 
Journal  as  acceptable  as  ever,  and  trust  it  may  be  so  for  many  years  to 
come. 
