544 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
June  30,  1898. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should,  until 
further  notice,  be  directed  to  “  The  Editob,”  8,  Rose  Hill  Road, 
Wandswortb,  S.W.,  and  HOT  to  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers, 
Fleet  Street.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately  to 
any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to 
unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  departmental  writers 
are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they  may  receive  on 
Gardening  and  Bee  subjects  through  the  post.  If  information 
be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any  particular 
authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be  made  to  obtain 
it  by  the  Editor.  Letters  of  inquiry  must  be  accompanied  by 
the  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers,  but  these  will  neither  be 
published  nor  disclosed  when  initials  or  nom  de  plumes  are  given 
for  the  purpose  of  replies. 
Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  it  is  convenient  when 
each  question  is  written  on  a  separate  sheet.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  be  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
LATE  QUESTIONS  AND  COMMUNICATIONS.— Some  communi- 
cations  which  arrived  when  we  were  preparing  for  press  cannot  be 
inserted  this  week,  and  replies  to  sundry  questions  must  be  deferred 
till  the  next  issue  of  the  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE. 
Lawn  Mowings  (P.  C.  S.). — The  short  grass  removed  from  lawns  is 
used  by  some  gardeners  for  mulching — i.e.,  spreading  on  the  surface  of 
the  soil  over  the  roots  of  vegetable  crops  and  fruit  trees  for  preventing  the 
escape  of  moisture  by  evaporation,  and  thus  often  doing  much  good  in  hot 
dry  weather.  We  have  known  the  mowings  to  be  spread  on  the  soil  in 
Celery  trenches,  among  Cauliflowers  and  Lettuce,  and  along  the  sides  of 
rows  of  Peas  and  Beans,  also  on  the  soil  near  wall  and  other  Iruit  trees 
with  advantage.  Failing  such  use,  the  product,  when  placed  in  a  heap 
to  decay,  is  good  for  land  that  is  deficient  in  vegetable  matter.  The 
mowings  are  not  good  for  placing  among  Strawberries,  as  the  particles 
adhere  to  the  ripening  fruit. 
Melon  Leaves  Spotted  (-ff.  D.'). — The  leaves  are  spotted  by  the  rind- 
rot  fungus,  Collitotrichum  lagenarium,  which  also  attacks  Kidney  Beans 
and  Cucumbers.  The  best  preventive  is  a  rather  dry  condition  of  the 
atmosphere,  not  necessarily  arid,  but  freely  ventilated,  so  as  to  prevent 
the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  foliage,  and  not  giving  more  water  at 
the  roots  than  is  necessary  to  keep  the  plants  in  health.  The  seeds  also 
should  be  examined  before  sowing,  rejecting  any  that  have  a  dark  brown 
or  blackish  spot  or  spots  on  them ;  or  soak  the  seeds  in  water  at  a 
temperature  of  135°  for  about  five  minutes  before  sowing,  and  when  the 
plants  are  up  and  coming  into  the  second  or  rough  leaf  dust  them  with  a 
preparation  of  sulphate  of  copper,  such  as  anti-blight  or  fostite,  and 
repeat  two  or  three  times  at  intervals  of  a  week  or  ten  days.  This  will 
usually  prevent  its  attacking  the  plants.  The  best  dressing  for  the  soil  is 
lime,  using  about  per  cent.,  and  some  little  time  in  advance  of  the 
compost  being  required  for  use. 
Apple  Twigs  Blighted  (A.  B.). — The  Apple  tree  shoots  have  been 
infested  by  some  caterpillar,  which  has  departed.  It  appears  to  have 
devoured  the  flowers  or  centres  of  the  shoots,  and  may  have  been  one  of  the 
many  leaf-roller  moths.  The  web  may  have  been  that  of  the  small  ermine 
moth  caterpillar.  The  only  thing  we  can  suggest  is  to  use  early  next 
year  a  spray  of  1  oz.  of  Paris  green  in  paste,  1  lb.  of  sulphate  of  copper,  and 
2  lbs.  of  quicklime.  Dissolve  separately  in  earthen  vessels,  and  mix  well 
in  a  wooden  tub  with  20  gallons  of  water,  strain  and  apply  by  means  of  a 
knapsack  pump  when  the  buds  are  developing,  repeating  again  before 
the  blossoms  unfold.  This  may  destroy  the  pest  and  secure  a  good  set  of 
fruit.  The  twigs  are  also  affected  by  some  fungus,  commonly  referred 
to  as  canker,  for  which  there  have  been  various  panaceas,  but  the  fungus 
in  this  case  can  only  be  got  rid  of  by  cutting  away  the  affected  portions 
to  sound  wood  immediately  below  the  dead  part.  Spraying  with  the 
'preparation  before  mentioned  will  be  of  service,  and  in  the  autumn  the 
trees  should  be  lifted,  or  if  too  large  for  that  digging  round  on  one  side 
this  year,  root-pruning  and  cutting  off  any  straight  down  roots.  This 
will  check  the  tendency  to  the  branches  dying,  treating  the  other  side 
of  the  tree  similarly  the  following  season.  A  top-dressing  of  some 
approved  fertiliser  would  also  be  of  service,  applying  shortly  after  lifting 
or  root-pruning,  pointing  in  lightly  and  mulching  over  the  roots  with 
•short  manure. 
T.iliTimH  f  Amateur). — All  the  Liliuius  you  name  have  had  too  much 
heat,  and,  moreover,  have,  perhaps,  been  at  some  distance  from  the  glass 
root,  if  not  shaded  by  other  plants.  We  find  them  the  most  saDsfactory 
when  started  in  cool  frames,  the  pots  plunged  at  first  over  their  nms 
in  ashes  ;  then  when  growth  is  fairly  advanced  clearing  the  pots,  and 
top-dressing  with  rough,  rich,  loamy  soil  for  inciting  stem  roots.  When 
the  plants  are  too  tall  the  sashes  can  be  removed,  and  when  the  buds  are 
developing  the  plants  may  be  placed  under  glass,  if  needed,  for  accelerat¬ 
ing  the  expansion  or  preserving  the  purity  of  the  blooms.  If  you  remove 
your  plants  from  under  glass  now,  let  them  have  a  shaded  positmn, 
syringe  frequently  in  dry  weather,  and  take  care  that  they  do  not  suffer 
Ktt  lQ/»lr  TTinicf.nrfk  fi.t.  the  rOOtS- 
Black  Currant  Bushes  Cropless  (A.  .B.).— The  twigs  sent  are  infested 
with  the  Currant-bud  gall  mite  (Phytoptus  ribis),  and  the  pest  has 
destroyed  the  buds.  The  mites,  however,  are  not  now  in  the  buds,  and 
this  is  the  time  to  prevent  or  mitigate  further  attacks  by  spraying  or 
syringing  the  bushes  with  a  solution  of  petroleum  emulsion,  wetting  them 
in  every  part,  and  repeating  again  at  the  beginning  of  September.  The 
work  mus‘t  be  done  thoroughly  and  during  a  dry  time.  The  petroleum 
preparation  can  be  procured  of  any  seedsman  or  horticultural  sundries- 
man,  and  in  using  adhere  strictly  to  the  instructions.  If  very  badly 
infested  in  the  autumn,  as  may  be  known  by  the  enlarged  state  of  the 
buds,  it  would  be  advisable  to  cut  all  away  and  burn  them,  but  if  the 
treatment  advised  is  followed  there  may  be  no  need  to  cut  the  bushes 
down.  This,  as  often  advised,  has  only  a  temporary  effect.  The  point  is 
to  kill  the  mites  by  the  thorough  treatment  indicated. 
Vegetable  Marrows  Turning  Yellow  (W.  E.). — ^There  must  be  some 
particular  deficiency  in  the  soil  or  defect  of  treatment  to  cause  the  fruit  to 
turn  yellow  instead  of  swelling  in  successional  order.  We  should  attri¬ 
bute  the  non-swelling  to  the  plants  not  having  sufficient  support.  We 
advise  the  use  of  liquid  manure  liberally  in  dry  weather,  and  instead  of 
pinching  the  growths  allow  them  to  extend,  keeping  moderately  open 
rather  than  crowded.  The  impregnation  is  usually  effected  by  insects, 
but  in  certain  cases  it  may  be  necessary  to  have  recourse  to  artificial 
means.  If  ordinary  liquid  manure,  such  as  that  of  stables  and  cow  houses, 
be  not  at  command,  you  may  use  a  mixture  of  three  parts  bone  superphos¬ 
phate,  two  parts  nitrate  of  potash,  and  one  part  gypsum,  at  the  rate  of 
an  ounce  of  the  mixture  per  gallon  of  water,  well  mixed  and  applied  clear 
of  the  foliage.  This  may  be  used  about  once  a  week,  and  with  3  gallons 
per  square  yard  will  be  likely  to  give  better  results,  but  do  not  crowd 
the  growths.  The  Cucumbers  probably  do  not  friiit  freely  for  similar 
reasons,  being  too  crowded  in  growth  and  not  supplied  with  due 
nourishment. 
Apple  and  Pear  Leaves  Diseased  (./.  W.).  —  On^  the  Apple  leaves 
appear  the  dark  mould,  caused  by  the  scab  fungus  in  its  early  stage, 
which  is  very  common  this  season,  and  disastrous  to  the  foliage  of  many 
rosaceous  plants.  Spray  or  syringe  the  trees  with  a  solution  of  potassium 
sulphide,  1  oz.  to  3  gallons  of  water,  and  repeat  in  about  ten  days.  This 
will  arrest  the  pest,  but  the  leaves  affected  will  most  likely  tall  at  an 
early  date,  as  they  are  seriously  injured  by  the  parasite.  It  is  a  good 
practice  to  spray  the  trees  in  the  early  spring,  just  before  the  buds 
commence  swelling,  with  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  copper,  1  oz.  to 
gallon  of  water,  just  wetting  them  during  a  mild  dry  time.  This  acts 
as  a  preventive,  and  if  the  pest  appears  promptly  use  the  sulphide  of 
potash  solution,  or  better,  use  it  as  a  preventive  just  before  the  trees  come 
into  flower,  or  when  the  buds  are  about  half  expanded,  repeating  as  soon 
as  the  first  leaves  are  fairly  developed.  The  Pear  leaves  are  attacked  by 
mites.  Spray  or  syringe  them  on  the  under  side  with  a  solution  of 
petroleum  emulsion,  diluting  to  a  safe  strength.  This  will  arrest  the 
pests  to  a  certain  extent,  and  thus  save  the  younger  leaves  from  attack. 
In  the  autumn  syringe  the  trees  with  the  emulsion  during  a  dry  time, 
from  above  downwards,  so  as  to  reach  into  the  scales  of  the  buds.  The 
emulsion  may  be  used  at  about  double  strength  then,  but  in  any  case 
attend  to  the  instructions,  as  to  the  extent  of  dilution,  supplied  with  the 
article,  which  may  be  procured  of  any  nurseryman  or  horticultural 
sundriesman  advertising  in  our  columns. 
Raspberries  Unsatisfactory  QOld  Subscriber). — On  some  chalk  forma¬ 
tions  Raspberries  thrive  with  remarkable  vigour,  and  on  others  they 
refuse  to  grow,  which  may  be  due  to  some  peculiar  constituent  of  the  soil, 
Of  this  we  know  nothing  in  your  case,  only  that  the  “soil  is  marly  over 
chalk.’’  You  do  not  say  whether  shallow  or  what,  only  “  bastard 
trenched  ’’  implies  a  not  very  deep  soil,  therefore  we  should  form  trenches 
as  for  Celery,  and  fill  them  with  any  vegetable  refuse  at  command,  such 
as  that  of  rubbish  heaps,  with  any  soil  that  can  be  spared,  forming,  with 
refuse  potting  material,  a  good  vegetable  compost,  such  as  frequently 
accumulates  in  gardens.  Trenches  2  feet  wide  and  deep  of  such  material 
will  usually  give  good  results,  but  in  certain  cases  the  trenches  may  be 
mere  receptacles  for  water,  and  then  Raspberries  will  not  grow  until 
means  are  provided  to  free  it  from  the  stagnant  moisture.  We  have  used 
gravel  freely  with  clayey  marl  to  bring  about  a  better  state  of  things, 
and  then  placed  the  dbbris  of  the  rubbish  heap  in  ridges  on  the  ground, 
and  on  these  planted  the  Raspberries.  Then,  by  mulching  with  short 
manure,  and  improving  the  staple  between  the  rows,  good  results  have 
followed.  Apples,  as  a  rule,  do  not  thrive  on  chalk,  especially  with  the 
kind  of  surface  you  describe.  It  will,  perhaps,  be  necessary  to  lift  the 
trees  and  concrete  the  stations  so  as  to  prevent  the  roots  descending,  and 
then  form  mounds  of  prepared  soil  on  which  to  plant  the  trees  afresh. 
This,  with  liberal  mulching,  would  probably  give  the  desired  results.  ^  If 
wet,  drain,  and  instead  of  excavating,  mix  gravel  with  the  marl,  forming 
stations  for  the  trees  wholly  above  the  surface.  For  the  Black  Currants 
