J uly  7,  1  WI^8. 
JOURNAL  Op '  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER . 
importance  than  the  Apple,  both  for  dessert  and  culinary  purposes.  With 
a  judicious  selection  of  varieties  we  are  able  to  supply  the  demand  for  the 
greater  part  of  the  year,  with  the  aid  of  a  good  fruit  room.  Apples 
appear  to  like  an  adequately  drained  soft  hazel  loam  with  thorough 
drainage,  containing  a  small  quantity  of  sand.  The  choice  of  trees  is  a 
most  important  consideration,  and  if  possible  they  should  be  purchased 
after  a  personal  selection.  Plant  firmly  and  near  to  the  surface.  For  the 
first  year  after  planting  they  require  but  little  more  pruning  than  the 
shortening  of  long  young  branches  to  form  the  frame  of  the  tree.  Avoid 
overcrowding  of  the  branches,  so  that  all  the  wood  may  have  the  full 
benefit  of  air  and  light,  which  are  prime  essentials  for  the  production  of 
healthy,  fruitful  trees. 
I  believe  that  pyramid  or  bush  trees,  according  to  the  natural  habit  of 
the  varieties,  are  well  adapted  for  Apples.  Robust  growing  varieties  may 
be  planted  irom  15  to  20  feet  apart.  For  less  vigorous  growers  the 
distance  may  be  reduced.  During  dry  weather  they  will  require  an 
occasional  watering,  and  a  mulching  of  decayed  manure  will  be  found 
beneficial. 
As  a  rule  it  is  advisable  not  to  employ  much  manure  of  any  kind, 
beyond  mulching,  until  the  trees  are  in  a  good  fruit-bearing  state. 
When  Apple  trees  are  well  established  and  in  full  bearing  they 
take  up  a  large  amount  of  nutrition,  and  therefore  gradually  impoverish 
the  soil.  This,  therefore,  must  be  replenished  it  good  and  lasting  results 
are  expected. 
With  regard  to  artificial  manures  for  the  Apple,  those  containing  a  good 
proportion  of  phosphates  and  potash  are  the  most  valuable  in  promoting 
sound  growth,  also  good-coloured  well-flavoured  fruit.  Wood  ashes  are 
very  beneficial  for  the  Apple,  and  where  the  soil  is  of  a  light  sandy  nature 
they  should  be  mixed  with  it  for  planting.  During  the  fruit-bearing 
season  an  occasional  top-dressing  with  the  same  product  and  super¬ 
phosphate  of  lime  may  be  given  with  advantage.  If  the  soil  is  heavy 
wood  ashes  would  tend  to  make  it  more  tenacious. 
The  subject  of  canker  has  always  been,  and  still  is,  a  troublesome 
disease  amongst  Apple  trees.  Opinions  differ  as  to  its  cause.  According 
to  my  observations  this  epidemic  may  be  brought  on  and  intensified  by 
gross  feeding,  over-luxuriant  growth,  and  severe  pruning.  I  have  never 
seen  any  effectual  remedy,  and  can  therefore  only  suggest  preventive 
measures.  These  are  suitably  prepared  soil,  the  careful  planting  of  clean 
healthy  trees,  encouraging  active  fibrous  roots,  and  having  the  branches 
thinly  disposed  near  the  surface  for  producing  sound,  matured,  fortified 
growths.  Then  may  we  hope  to  repel  the  obnoxious  fungus  that  spreads 
through  the  tissues,  causing  unsightly  sap-obstructive  corrugations  that 
ruin  many  trees. — J.  F.  D.,  Yorks. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Propagating  Strawberries. — Every  favourable  opportunity  ought  now 
to  be  seized  to  layer  the  best  plantlets,  either  in  small  pots  or  cubes  of 
turf,  or  on  mounds  of  soil  between  the  rows.  It  is  inadvisable  to  select 
runners,  however  strong  and  vigorous,  from  fruitless  plants.  The  best 
runners  may  often  be  found  on  the  outside  limits  of  beds,  where  the 
traffic  caused  by  gathering  the  fruit  is  not  so  great.  Select  those  runners 
that  have  had  a  due  share  of  light  and  air  circulating  about  them.  The 
plantlets  formed  on  such  possess  every  qualification  for  readily  rooting, 
early  showing  root  extension  into  the  soil  provided,  whereas  crowded 
runners  are  quite  unfit  for  forming  roots  quickly,  owing  to  the  weakening 
effect  of  rank  growth.  The  first-formed  plantlet  is  usually  considered 
the  best,  because  it  must  possess  the  most  inherent  vigour,  if  developed 
under  favourable  conditions,  but  good  reliable  plants  may  be  secured 
from  second  plantlets  when  a  large  stock  is  required. 
Rooting  in  Pots. — For  obtaining  an  early  set  of  strong  plants  the 
system  of  pegging  plantlets  down  on  the  surface  of  the  soil  in  3-inch 
pots  has  advantages.  The  chief  is,  that  immediately  rooting  has  fairly 
commenced,  the  pots  can  be  removed  to  a  more  convenient  position  for 
attention.  Fill  the  pots  with  loamy  soil,  mixed  with  a  little  decayed 
manure,  pressing  the  material  down  firmly.  It  should  be  moist.  Partly 
sink  the  pots  in  the  ground  to  prevent  their  being  toppled  over  in  passing 
about  them  for  the  purpose  of  supplying  water,  which  in  dry  weather  will 
be  required  every  day,  frequently  more  than  once.  During  a  moist 
period  there  is  very  little  trouble.  Stones  may  be  used  to  keep  the 
runners  in  position  until  rooting  is  insured,  when  the  runDer  wire  can 
be  detached  and  the  pots  removed  to  a  good  position  on  a  bed  of  coal 
ashes,  standing  them  close  together  for  after  convenience  in  watering. 
Establishing  on  Turves. — Where  it  is  practicable  to  obtain  a  good 
thickness  of  fresh  turf  this  may  be  cut  up  into  small  squares  or  cubes, 
2  or  3  inches  in  thickness.  Place  them  grass  side  downwards,  half  burying 
them  in  the  soil,  which  will  assist  in  retaining  moisture.  Secure  the 
plantlets  by  affixing  a  hooked  peg  to  each  for  holding  it  in  position. 
Keep  moist,  and  young  plants  will  soon  be  established.  It  is  not  advisable 
to  remove  the  turves  the  same  as  pots  until  the  ground  is  ready  to  receive 
the  plants,  one  operation  then  sufficing.  If,  however,  removal  is  necessary, 
place  the  turves  close  together  on  a  moist  base  of  ashes  or  soil. 
Rooting  in  the  Beds. — If  the  runners  are  left  undisturbed,  young  plants 
will  be  established  in  the  soil  of  the  beds,  but  more  readily  if  loosened  aud 
a  little  fresh  soil  added.  Clear  away  weeds  and  the  larger  proportion  of 
superfluous  runners,  which  crowd  and  choke  both  the  permanent  plants 
and  the  be9t  plantlets.  Retain  only  a  limited  number  of  the  most  pro¬ 
mising,  giving  them  every  facility  to  root  freely.  In  dry  weather  watering 
will  assist  them,  but  on  this  system  of  rooting  they  do  not  require  nearly 
so  much  attention  in  the  maintenance  of  moisture. 
Summer  Pruning  Fruit  Trees. — Summer  pruning  is  very  essential,  in 
order  to  maintain  fruit  trees  and  bushes  healthy  and  fruitful.  The  term 
summer  pruning,  however,  is  a  wide  one,  and  embraces  methods  in  the 
treatment  of  trees  and  bushes  which  differ  considerably. 
Shortening -back  Side  and  Foreright  Shoots. — In  the  case  of  formally 
restricted  trees,  such  as  cordons  on  walls  and  in  the  open,  horizontally 
trained,  on  walls  and  espalier  fences,  pyramid  and  bush-shaped  in  the 
open,  summer  pruning  consists  in  reducing  the  current  year’s  shoots 
which  have  extended  from  the  spurs.  Apples,  Pears,  Cherries  of  the 
dessert  varieties,  Plums,  Gooseberries,  and  Currants  on  walls  all  require 
the  summer  shoots  shortening  back  to  four  or  six  leaves.  Red  and  White 
Currants  always  require  this  treatment,  whether  grown  on  walls  or  not. 
Plums  and  Cherries  are  best  if  the  trees  are  allowed  free  extension  in  the 
open,  when  this  form  of  summer  pruning  is  not  admissible. 
In  addition  to  the  shortening  of  summer  shoots  it  is  advisable  at  the 
same  time  to  thin-out  entirely  some  of  the’ weaker  if  there  are  a  number 
together,  so  that  the  remaining  may  have  the  advantage  of  more  abundant 
light  and  air. 
Thinning-out. — This  form  of  summer  pruning  is  frequently  not 
ciently  practised,  with  the  result  that  growth  is  too  crowded  and  iruitfifi- 
ness  prevented.  Neglecting  to  give  due  attention  to  Peach,  Nectarine, 
and  Apricot  trees  causes  the  wood  to  remain  unripe,  whereas  if  the 
current  year’s  shoots,  upon  which  the  succeeding  year’s  crops  depend,  are 
allowed  plenty  of  room  to  become  hard  and  ripe,  a  fruitful  state  will  be 
insured.  Gooseberries  and  Black  Currants,  especially  the  former,  are 
much  improved  by  liberal  thinning-out  in  summer  in  preference  to  severe 
winter  pruning.  The  operation  may  be  carried  out  when  the  crops  have 
been  gathered.  Summer  is  the  best  time  to  thin-out  crossing,  interlacing, 
and  crowded  branches  of  Apples,  Pears,  and  Plums. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Melons. — Second  Crops.— When  old  plants  are  in  good  health  and  free 
from  red  spider  they  will  show  fruit  blossoms  freely  on  the  laterals,  even 
when  the  fruit  is  swelling  ;  but  these  will  not  set  unless  syringing  ceases, 
which  is  not  advisable  until  the  present  crop  is  advanced  for  ripening. 
The  plan  is  then  to  cut  away  such  growths  as  are  useless,  and  concentrate 
the  fresh  growth  on  the  young  fruit.  A  little  of  the  old  soil  may  be 
removed,  and  lumpy  loam  supplied,  with  a  fourth  of  decayed  manure.  Give 
a  good  soaking  of  tepid  water,  and  follow  at  once  with  equally  warm  liquid 
manure.  Maintain  ample  moisture,  and  sprinkle  the  paths  with  weak 
ammoniacal  liquid  manure  once  or  twice  a  week  at  the  afternoon  damping. 
If  the  plants  are  exhausted  with  the  first  crop  or  attacked  with  red  spider 
they  would  be  best  rooted  out.  In  that  case  thoroughly  cleanse  the  house 
or  pit,  and  bring  in  fresh  soil.  After  giving  the  bed  a  good  watering 
fresh  plants  may  be  put  out.  Keep  them  close,  moist,  and  shaded,  and 
they  will  soon  become  established  and  show  fruit,  so  as  to  afford  a  late 
supply  :  but  the  structures  must  have  artificial  heat,  as  Melons  in  late 
September  are  apt  to  suffer  in  quality  should  the  weather  prove  moist 
and  cold.  They  must  wli«n  ripening  have  a  dry  atmosphere,  a  temperature 
of  65°  to  75°,  and  a  free  circulation  of  air. 
Plants  Swelling  their  Crops.—  Give  supports  to  the  fruits  before  they 
become  heavy,  letting  the  table  slant  so  as  not  to  hold  wet,  and  place 
slates  beneath  the  fruits  of  the  plants  in  frames.  Fertilise  the  flowers 
daily  of  successional  plants  until  sufficient  fruits  are  set  of  equal  size  on 
a  plant,  then  remove  all  the  flowers,  and  reduce  the  fruits  to  three  or  four 
on  a  plant  according  to  its  vigour.  Shade  only  to  prevent  flagging.  It 
is  most  needed  on  bright  weather  succeeding  to  a  period  ot  dull  and 
moist.  Melons  exposed  directly  to  the  sun  are  benefited  by  a  slight 
shade  when  ripening.  Repot  any  young  plants  requiring  it,  and  keep 
them  sturdy  by  placing  near  the  glass. 
When  the  fruit  is  set  and  swelled  to  the  size  of  a  hen’s  egg,  the 
laterals  may  be  pinched  to  one  leaf,  and  if  this  results  in  too  much 
foliage,  so  that  the  leaves  on  the  primary  shoots  are  crowded  or  shaded 
by  them,  thinning  must  be  resorted  to,  removing  a  little  at  a  time  in 
preference  to  a  quantity  at  once,  the  latter  giving  a  check  unfavourable 
to  the  fruit  swelling.  The  plants  should  be  attended  to  at  least  once  a 
week,  and  in  the  case  of  vigorous  plants  twice,  for  stopping  and  the 
removal  of  superfluous  shoots,  the  principal  leaves  being  fully  exposed  to 
light  and  air. 
Water  must  be  given  before  the  foliage  flags,  always  affording  a 
thorough  supply  when  the  soil  is  becoming  dry.  '  Plants  swelling  their 
fruit  will  need  water  once  a  week,  even  those  with  a  large  extent  of 
root  space  ;  others  with  lessened  rooting  areas  require  it  twice  a  week, 
and  plants  in  pots  will  need  supplies  once  or  twice  a  day.  When 
setting  and  ripening  it  will  suffice  to  keep  the  foliage  from  flagging,  and 
if  watering  becomes  necessary  it  should  be  given  without  wetting  the 
surface  more  than  can  be  helped.  A  poor  growth  is  not  good  for  either 
setting  or  ripening  the  fruit,  but  a  drier  condition  of  the  soil  is  desirable 
at  those  times  than  when  the  fruit  is  swelling. 
When  the  flowers  are  about  expanding  and  the  crop  ripening  withhold 
water  from  the  foliage,  for  it  converts  pollen  into  paste,  and  causes  fruit 
